Notes on Tourists Accosted by Religious Zealots in Jerusalem

01/11/10  Print this post Print this post    2 Comments      Written by Robert Hirschfield
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Jerusalem is the juxtaposition of 5000 years of conflict that, as these travelers discover, sometimes “flies out of the nightly news” to hang out with you.

Unsuspecting bystanders? Photo: Emilie Raguso

If Yehuda Amichai were alive, he’d write a poem to them: “Psalm For a
Secular Couple From Spain Exploring Jerusalem Like Ordinary Civilized
People”.

Their interlocked hands made for themselves a home away from home.

The sleeves of their plaid shirts were rolled up in leisurely folds that could have risen beyond themselves were it not for their shoulders.

I watched their eyes ranging ecumenically from the Wailing Wall to the
gold-domed Dome of The Rock. Why couldn’t Jerusalem be more like them?
I thought. Tame, untroubled, their lazy agendas taking in the sun.

Then, I noticed History, in the form of a heavy, ground-scraping brown
skirt approaching them from the Jewish Quarter. I should have shouted,
“Danger!” But what chance do two grazing deer have with the shadow of
the lioness already upon them?

“Welcome to Jerusalem,” the woman from History began. “The holy city.”

The couple recoiled a bit. But only a bit. You could tell they were resourceful.

“You look like intelligent people, so I am sure you have read the Bible.”

The couple was non-committal.

A sinister heat was rising in my cheeks. I felt I was guarding a border that was on the verge of being witlessly crossed.

“The Bible says Jerusalem is the city of the Jews that God gave to the Jews. Not the Arabs, the Jews.”

The couple looked at each other with good-natured horror. The woman had come flying out of the nightly news to hang out. Magical tourism. Their laughter froze on my lips.

community connection

For the last 2 years, Brave New Traveler has been publishing stories about travel and culture in conflicted places. Check out How War Shapes the Culture of Israel, an agnostic’s visit to the homeland of her family, or this guide on How to Respectfully Visit Holy Places Around the World.


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About the Author

Robert Hirschfield

Robert Hirschfield is a free-lance writer and photographer whose work appears in Ode Magazine, The National Catholic Reporter, Outlook (the Indian newsweekly), and the London Jewish Chronicle, among other publications. He has travelled most recently to north and South India, and to Israel and the West Bank.

2 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Joshywashington replied on January 11, 2010

    I love the form of this narrative, i love reading it out loud. Very nice work Robert.

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  • Leigh Shulman replied on January 16, 2010

    There’s so much in this piece. Its language is poetic, but it leaves wondering and wanting more.

    I’ve met many of those people who jump out at you with an agenda. In fact, sometimes it seems that everyone in Jerusalem has an agenda. Be that to sell you a trinket at the shuk or to ask for money so their children can eat or to convince you who should own what piece of land.

    That and the meaning of the word zealot has deeply rooted meaning that goes far beyond some loony accosting you on the street. As does the word tolerance. And while this couple handles it with humor, do they realize that this experience is heart and soul of Jerusalem.

    ↵ Reply

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