Notes on Nariman House: The Travel of Remembrance

09/2/09  Print this post Print this post    5 Comments   Popular   Written by Robert Hirschfield
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Photo by the Author.

In some places, what can you do except remember?

A gray skeletal hulk in the middle of an alleyway in Colaba in Mumbai South, it is a place that will always belong to the past.

Even on this warm Sunday morning in March, with the neighborhood women in their red and gold saris passing Nariman House with mangos and chapattis, this structure belongs to November. The November of last year’s massacre.

I stand outside the house. It is hot. My body is stone cold. It is all those dark spaces inside the Jewish center, the boarded up windows, behind which the story unfolded that everyone knows: the break-in by the four Islamic terrorists, the slaughter of the six Jews by the terrorists, the slaying of the four terrorists by the Indian commandos.

An Indian man says to me sharply in passing: “Why are you looking? What is to see?” I don’t know what to say. I see an elderly Indian policeman sitting in a chair at the entrance to the building. His eyes are half-closed. His rifle is asleep in his lap. I like that policeman. I feel protected by his harmlessness.

Nariman House provides him with a few rupees and some shade. His gun is ornamental. November’s antidote.I consider the first man’s question. Why am I looking? I begin to see what he is driving at. He wants to forget. By looking, I remember. I am an insufferable rememberer. Chalk it up to my Jewish DNA. It’s a birth defect like a cleft palette. Only unlike a cleft palette, you can’t get rid of it.

Other Jews visit Auschwitz and Dachau. They stand very still and listen, as I am listening now. Maybe if they listen hard enough, creatures of rag and bone, yet enormous in their martyrdom, will float out of the barracks and say the things the listeners are listening for. What are those things?

Maybe if they listen hard enough, creatures of rag and bone, yet enormous in their martyrdom, will float out of the barracks and say the things the listeners are listening for. What are those things?

For myself, I would want to hear the six as ordinary galumphing people complaining about in-laws and tight shoes and the hallucinogenic idols of India.

I am fascinated by who they were before they were bound, mutilated and hatched as immortals in the calamitous tree of Jewish memory.

A few blocks away is the Arabian Sea. I could go there and reinvent myself as a normal tourist. Victoria’s Gateway is there. I could board a a boat and head for the caves of Elephanta. But then I’d be crossing the waters the terrorists came out of that night. It wouldn’t be right to pollute the Arabian Sea with my morbidity.

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About the Author

Robert Hirschfield

Robert Hirschfield is a free-lance writer and photographer whose work appears in Ode Magazine, The National Catholic Reporter, Outlook (the Indian newsweekly), and the London Jewish Chronicle, among other publications. He has travelled most recently to north and South India, and to Israel and the West Bank.

5 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Michelle replied on September 2, 2009

    I’m amazed that such a dark subject can be written about so beautifully.

    I love this: “the calamitous tree of Jewish memory.”

    ↵ Reply
  • neha replied on September 2, 2009

    That was one of the most difficult weeks of my life. I can’t put words to the emotions, but if I could, I would want it to make as much of an impact as you do with this piece.

    ↵ Reply
  • Hal replied on September 2, 2009

    So many powerful lines here; though of less consequence, this one stuck with me: “I like that policeman. I feel protected by his harmlessness.”

    Another unforgettable piece.

    ↵ Reply
  • Carlo replied on September 2, 2009

    Thanks Robert, this is beautiful.

    ↵ Reply
  • ninzy replied on September 9, 2009

    I was amazed with the story that you are posting and as well as it made me imagine how is the feeling in such place.

    ↵ Reply

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