Losing My Travel Virginity: Life and Death on The Ganges

05/16/09  Print this post Print this post    4 Comments   Popular   Written by Jackie Poinier
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Photog’s note: “Children hang around the Ghatts selling baskets of small hand-woven leaf bowls. Each bowl contains a candle in a bed of flower petals, an offering to the Ganges.” Photo by: judepics

While taking a boat ride down the Ganges, Jackie Poinier finds life and death all right there on the water’s surface.

A long wooden oar dipped below the surface of the river. It disappeared, emerged, disappeared and emerged, slow and steady, past unrecognizable debris.

It avoided contact with floating objects with a precision that marked familiarity, acceptance, and indifference. It was an indifference that my mind could not connect to the froth and parts of buildings floating on the surface of the Ganges River near Varanasi, India.

Photo: snikrap

It was sunrise. The world was thick with smoke heaving off fire pits of cremated loved ones. A woman doused her sari and body in the water carrying an ancestor’s dust downstream.

A family hoisted a platform onto their shoulders. It carried a loved one that would soon return to the earth as smoke and dust.

I pulled a scarf tight around my nose in an attempt to block out reality. That was the difference between me and the woman that continued to scrub her golden sari. She accepted life. I accepted a glamorous paragraph about a boat ride down the Ganges.

The smell from the flames was pungent and frightening. It was “my world” unveiled. It left my small bubble of a world lying in a puddle on the boat’s floor.

Community Connection

Editor’s note: We recently put out a call for stories of “losing your travel virginity,” and I made a few notes about losing my own.

Congrats to new Matador Community member Jackie Poinier for being the first contributor in this new series. Stay tuned for more stories soon.

Want to learn the craft of travel writing?

Sign up for Matador’s new Travel Writing School and get the skills you need.


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About the Author

Jackie Poinier

Jackie Poinier is a senior photojournalism major at Syracuse University. She started travel writing during a life-changing semester abroad at sea, which took her to ten countries across South America, Africa and Asia.

4 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Julie replied on May 16, 2009

    Wow- incredibly powerful, tight piece. Especially loved this: “That was the difference between me and the woman that continued to scrub her golden sari. She accepted life. I accepted a glamorous paragraph about a boat ride down the Ganges.”

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  • Sarah replied on May 17, 2009

    I agree, beautifully written. It’s so hard to create descriptions like this without sounding pompous or cheesy. You really take your reader there without doing either.

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  • Carlo Alcos replied on May 17, 2009

    Hear hear…great line: She accepted life. I accepted a glamorous paragraph about a boat ride down the Ganges.

    ↵ Reply
  • Tim Patterson replied on May 17, 2009

    Gorgeous piece. I made a lot of puddles after visiting Varanasi a couple months ago.

    ↵ Reply

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