Buenos Aires Bus Ride in the Wake of Swine Flu

08/19/09  Print this post Print this post    7 Comments   Popular   Written by Kate Sedgwick
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Four busses in a row and none of them the one you want.

I’m lucky. I’ve got a seat. The stop after I get on leaves the majority of the new passengers standing, holding metal bars, bracing their legs to keep from being knocked over by sudden stops.

A woman has taken the vacant seat across from me. Her wardrobe is a demonstration of understated wealth. Flawless lizard skin boots, a stylish ostrich leather purse and an overcoat all in complimentary shades of brown swaddle a soft, round body I can imagine has enjoyed many an expensive restaurant meal.

Perfectly coifed blond hair has been toned and dyed with the attention to the most minor detail. I study the face. The woman looks very German to me and her eyes are unnaturally wide. Though she’s got plenty of wrinkles, I can tell she’s had some plastic surgery. As I’m looking for telltale signs and scars, I notice her hands are large and as I start to wonder if she’s transgendered, the elderly man in the seat next to her’s lets loose a low, rumbling cough without covering his mouth.

The woman’s head snaps to the right in a gesture of confrontation that goes unnoticed by the man whose bald, liver-spotted scalp bounces in time with the rhythm of his coughing. The woman looks around and catches my eye, her permanently astonished expression exaggerated as her eyebrows go up as if to say, “Are you seeing this?”

All photos: Kate Sedgwick

She digs the salt-free crackers from the pocket of her elegant coat and gets one bite in before the man starts to cough again.

She puts the crackers back in her pocket. Then she attempts to locate the back of the copper, metallic scarf that hangs aside her lapels before abandoning decorum to wrap it around her nose, decorative side down. I see her drop the scarf just in time for another coughing fit and see her replace it, exasperated.

Minutes have gone by – ten or more – and the sick man continues to hack and cough, oblivious to the woman on his left whose posture points to a slow, simmering rage she is barely able to contain and yet she says nothing and it does not seem to occur to her that she could just stand up and distance herself from the man who she clearly believes is contagious with Gripe A.

Finally, near my stop she says to him, “Tapa la boca,” and two full grown women towering over us giggle and murmur “Tapa la boca,” to one another. The woman throws her chin back in a defiant gesture that seems to mean that having said this was a sort of victory for her and as I get up to ring the buzzer, she lunges for my seat which she must deem as being a safe distance from the man and settles her rump into its black naugahyde.

Translation: Gripe A is the Swine Flu.

Tapa la boca means cover your mouth.


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About the Author

Kate Sedgwick

Kate Sedgwick is a shiftless ne'er-do-well living in Buenos Aires. She can often be found with her face behind a camera or sneaking off into the corner to write in her little notebook. Her travels have taken her all over the United States, and her most memorable trips have been the fly-by-night-white-knuckle-hold-on-tight kind that bring surprises at every turn. She takes what she wants and leaves the rest.

7 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Colin Wright replied on August 19, 2009

    Great descriptions…really helps me get into the moment.

    Can’t wait to be in Buenos Aires (just a few more weeks)!

    ↵ Reply
  • Tom Gates replied on August 20, 2009

    What a cool piece! Screw the swine flu – you’ve gotta watch out for those girls with large hands.

    ↵ Reply
  • Diana replied on August 20, 2009

    Kate…you need to lighten up abit with your
    writing, I suggest a good lay before picking up the pen.

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    • Kate replied to Diana on August 24, 2009

      Diane – I know you’re a man. The fact that you have to masquerade as a woman speaks volumes, but there are people you can pay to watch you do that in real life if the need is that pressing.

      ↵ Reply
  • Michelle replied on August 20, 2009

    I think I know that woman.

    Seriously, I can picture this scene so well…especially when the two girls giggle and murmur “tapa la boca.”

    ↵ Reply
  • Travel-Writers-Exchange.com replied on August 21, 2009

    Interesting post. Many people are scared of the Swine Flu. It’s amazing how people start to panic. Fear breeds inside of them which spreads faster than the Swine Flu to other people. Some of these people probably get up day after day, drive to and from work or take public transportation, and don’t realize that another driver on the road can take them out. Interesting….

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  • Trip Reviews replied on August 25, 2009

    Im from Buenos Aires and the “Gripe A” scares a lot of people. A TV show made an experiment. A gorgeous woman with a hidden camera asked every men that walked by for the time. All of them answered. Some of them even asked her for her telephone number. Then they waited for a while and the same girl went to the same corner and started caughing and asked again for the time. NOBODY TALKED TO HER and they even ignored them when she talked.

    Theres a bit of psychosis

    Thanks

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