Featured and above photo by Luz A. Villa
More and more people are visiting previously unthinkable locations in Colombia. See why they’re totally good to go.
1. President Uribe
Love him or hate him– and there appears to be no standing on the fence here– Bush’s best buddy in South America has increased security, dealt some serious blows to the guerrillas, presided over economic growth, and encouraged tourism into a “conflict zone.”
Did you know that Colombia, in stark contrast to its Latin American counterparts, has only suffered one coup d’état and one dictatorship in its history, way back in 1953…although the students hollering out there in the streets would have you believe that current boss is no better than a dictator.
Photo courtesy of Medea Material.
2. Fading FARC Influence
Whisper it carefully and in well-chosen circles, but the FARC and ELN Guerrilla groups are possibly at their lowest ever ebb.
Controversial events such as the rescue of Ingrid Betancourt and the three American contractors from the southern jungles of Guaviare, as well as the deaths of leading FARC members Raul Reyes, Ivan Rios, and founding member Manuel “Tirofijo” Marulanda, have led many commentators to declare FARC a tired anachronism.
3. The conflict is not aimed at you.
Cocaine and kidnapping. Sure, cocaine and marijuana are regularly available, and your decision to meddle in the marching powder is what keeps Colombia’s warring factions in business.
As for kidnapping, unless you are an aid worker attached to an international NGO, a crusading journalist or just plain crazy, why would you be traveling alone through the forests of Guaviare, Vaupes, or other outlying regions where there is the very real threat of being kidnapped?
Photo by Juan Felipe Castaño.
4. Reputable Bus Firms
Overland travel, even at night, with reputable bus firms between the major cities of Bogota, Cartagena, Medellin, Santa Marta and intermediary cities such as Barrancabermeja, Bucaramanga, Ibague, Manizales, Villavicencio has become acceptable and frequent.
5.US State Department Warnings
Come on! If you were to follow these to a T then you would never leave the prairie. Apply some common sense and listen to what the locals have to say; after all, this is not Baghdad.
6. Secure Urban Areas
Walk around Bogota’s Zona T and Zona G or Medellin’s El Poblado and see how lightly the Colombians themselves are taking life. Some 15 years ago you would have thought twice and then thought better of a night out here in Medellin, but now it’s how to stay in and detox that is the main concern.
Photo by John Schneider.
7. Colonial Cities
For small perfectly preserved whitewashed and cobblestoned oases of calm, make your way to Popayan, Mompos, Villa de Leyva, and San Gil.
Cartagena is a little more frenetic and plagued with street vendors but then it’s been receiving tourists for decades.
8. Tourism is booming
But don’t let this put you off; come now before the rest of the world catches on. Cartagena and Bogota are still the most visited areas of the country, closely followed by Medellin, but what does it tell you that a country with a long running internal conflict received a little more than two million visitors in 2007?
Photo by Alvaro Vega.
9. Colombians
War weary and decidedly unhappy with their narco-fueled image as perceived by those only glued to Fox News will have you believe – are arguably the friendliest bunch in the Americas.
If you’re lost In Brazil, a local will show you home. But in Colombia you’ll be invited to the family cookout that day or the following!
10. Still Afraid?
In this case you are advised to head only to the Colombian Caribbean islands of San Andres and Providencia – as they say over there, “no hay guerrilla maritima,” “there’s no sea-based guerrilla!” Grab a coco loco and hit the beach.
community connection
Various matador members can vouch for Colombia as a being the next place you should travel. For local guides and experts, blogs, feature articles, and travelers you can connect with directly, check out Destination: Colombia at Matador.
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7 Comments... join the discussion!
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I’m currently living in San Jose, Costa Rica and just returned from a week long business trip to Bogota and surrounding area. I have to say I felt a hell of a lot safer in Bogota than in San Jose. Even at night, walking around Bogota alone felt safer than San Jose by day.
Also, as pointed out, Colombians are extremely friendly and helpful people.
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Just returned from a trip to Medellin Colombia. The author has no clue as to what the city is about or capable of. Medellin is still a very dangerous city and is not recommended to travel alone especially if you don’t speak Spanish. With the highest unemployment rate in Colombia and still a large population of mafia gangs, one has to be aware of his surroundings at all times especially if you are a tourist. I have had friends run into all kinds of problems while vacationing there. Don’t believe all the hype, even though Colombia has changed a lot for the better, there is still the issue of security which is not comparable to any US cities. One could disappear for good and nobody would have seen anything even the police. Please keep your head on.
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Medellin is still a city capable of many things, as you state above, but the point made is that it is not as it was 15 years ago when taxi drivers had to obey truces to be able to drive after nightfall. That it has the highest unemployment rate is interesting and a direct link and testament to how far the city has come to have formal employment charts showing that it is this city which drives the country forwards. Because Medellin is the country’s industrial powerhouse the city is feeling the economic downturn as you would expect but with so much informal employment in Colombia there is no way of truly knowing which city has the highest unemployment. The recent upturn in violent and deadly crime in Colombia was felt throughout the whole country as there was a widely publicised “limpieza social” by those affiliated to illegal groups.
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and santa marta…is just a dream
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“Don’t believe all the hype, even though Colombia has changed a lot for the better, there is still the issue of security which is not comparable to any US cities.”
I am a 6 ft 1in blond gringo living in colombia and I would feel equally safe in medellin or bogota at 3 am as i would in LA or New york. Yes, the large cities are a bit dangerous at night, but no more so than any large u.s. or European city. If im walking alone in Washington DC, Medellin, or Madrid at 2:30 am my risk of being robbed goes up quite a bit. Common sense and a good head, along with a few friends beside you, goes a long way.
All i seem to read about on forums is “i was in (fill in any colombian city) for only 2 weeks and got mugged my second day”. Ive been here 4 months, and I am ultra gringo looking and go out at night several times a week, yet the only problem ive had was an overzealous street vendor trying to sell me a melted 2 liter sprite bottle glued to a piece of wood as table art. perhaps i am just lucky, but I have nothing but good things to say about colombia so far.
Except for aguardiente. the worst hangover Ive ever had.
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I agree with Pat…..for most all of my 6 months living in Medellin, I’ve been perfectly fine enjoying the city and its day and nightlife as an OBVIOUS gringo. I may not be gallivanting around the downtown area drunk, in the early morning hours, but I’ve felt comfortable leaving bars late and getting in taxis home…after a few drinks.
While the locals, especially women, still prefer to call for taxis to pick them up rather than hail one off the street, I’ve never done it that way and always gotten where I needed to go without getting ripped off. The taxi drivers are almost always friendly, and it ends up being a great way for me to practice my Spanish when I’m in the mood.
The only real problem I had was when a Colombian girl pretended to be a guest at my hostel the first month, and ended up stealing some stuff from me and others. But if I’d used the lockers provided, this would’ve been a non-issue. It just forced me to make a long overdue move to renting an apartment.
The Colombians I’ve met, and friends I’ve made, have all been very helpful, whether it is encouraging me to practice my Spanish or helping me network for English students.
I’ll definitely be back sooner rather than later.
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