Featured and above photo by Luz A. Villa
More and more people are visiting previously unthinkable locations in Colombia. See why they’re totally good to go.
1. President Uribe
Love him or hate him– and there appears to be no standing on the fence here– Bush’s best buddy in South America has increased security, dealt some serious blows to the guerrillas, presided over economic growth, and encouraged tourism into a “conflict zone.”
Did you know that Colombia, in stark contrast to its Latin American counterparts, has only suffered one coup d’état and one dictatorship in its history, way back in 1953…although the students hollering out there in the streets would have you believe that current boss is no better than a dictator.
Photo courtesy of Medea Material.
2. Fading FARC Influence
Whisper it carefully and in well-chosen circles, but the FARC and ELN Guerrilla groups are possibly at their lowest ever ebb.
Controversial events such as the rescue of Ingrid Betancourt and the three American contractors from the southern jungles of Guaviare, as well as the deaths of leading FARC members Raul Reyes, Ivan Rios, and founding member Manuel “Tirofijo” Marulanda, have led many commentators to declare FARC a tired anachronism.
3. The conflict is not aimed at you.
Cocaine and kidnapping. Sure, cocaine and marijuana are regularly available, and your decision to meddle in the marching powder is what keeps Colombia’s warring factions in business.
As for kidnapping, unless you are an aid worker attached to an international NGO, a crusading journalist or just plain crazy, why would you be traveling alone through the forests of Guaviare, Vaupes, or other outlying regions where there is the very real threat of being kidnapped?
Photo by Juan Felipe Castaño.
4. Reputable Bus Firms
Overland travel, even at night, with reputable bus firms between the major cities of Bogota, Cartagena, Medellin, Santa Marta and intermediary cities such as Barrancabermeja, Bucaramanga, Ibague, Manizales, Villavicencio has become acceptable and frequent.
5.US State Department Warnings
Come on! If you were to follow these to a T then you would never leave the prairie. Apply some common sense and listen to what the locals have to say; after all, this is not Baghdad.
6. Secure Urban Areas
Walk around Bogota’s Zona T and Zona G or Medellin’s El Poblado and see how lightly the Colombians themselves are taking life. Some 15 years ago you would have thought twice and then thought better of a night out here in Medellin, but now it’s how to stay in and detox that is the main concern.
Photo by John Schneider.
7. Colonial Cities
For small perfectly preserved whitewashed and cobblestoned oases of calm, make your way to Popayan, Mompos, Villa de Leyva, and San Gil.
Cartagena is a little more frenetic and plagued with street vendors but then it’s been receiving tourists for decades.
8. Tourism is booming
But don’t let this put you off; come now before the rest of the world catches on. Cartagena and Bogota are still the most visited areas of the country, closely followed by Medellin, but what does it tell you that a country with a long running internal conflict received a little more than two million visitors in 2007?
Photo by Alvaro Vega.
9. Colombians
War weary and decidedly unhappy with their narco-fueled image as perceived by those only glued to Fox News will have you believe – are arguably the friendliest bunch in the Americas.
If you’re lost In Brazil, a local will show you home. But in Colombia you’ll be invited to the family cookout that day or the following!
10. Still Afraid?
In this case you are advised to head only to the Colombian Caribbean islands of San Andres and Providencia – as they say over there, “no hay guerrilla maritima,” “there’s no sea-based guerrilla!” Grab a coco loco and hit the beach.
community connection
Various matador members can vouch for Colombia as a being the next place you should travel. For local guides and experts, blogs, feature articles, and travelers you can connect with directly, check out Destination: Colombia at Matador.
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19 Comments... join the discussion!
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I’m currently living in San Jose, Costa Rica and just returned from a week long business trip to Bogota and surrounding area. I have to say I felt a hell of a lot safer in Bogota than in San Jose. Even at night, walking around Bogota alone felt safer than San Jose by day.
Also, as pointed out, Colombians are extremely friendly and helpful people.
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Just returned from a trip to Medellin Colombia. The author has no clue as to what the city is about or capable of. Medellin is still a very dangerous city and is not recommended to travel alone especially if you don’t speak Spanish. With the highest unemployment rate in Colombia and still a large population of mafia gangs, one has to be aware of his surroundings at all times especially if you are a tourist. I have had friends run into all kinds of problems while vacationing there. Don’t believe all the hype, even though Colombia has changed a lot for the better, there is still the issue of security which is not comparable to any US cities. One could disappear for good and nobody would have seen anything even the police. Please keep your head on.
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Medellin is still a city capable of many things, as you state above, but the point made is that it is not as it was 15 years ago when taxi drivers had to obey truces to be able to drive after nightfall. That it has the highest unemployment rate is interesting and a direct link and testament to how far the city has come to have formal employment charts showing that it is this city which drives the country forwards. Because Medellin is the country’s industrial powerhouse the city is feeling the economic downturn as you would expect but with so much informal employment in Colombia there is no way of truly knowing which city has the highest unemployment. The recent upturn in violent and deadly crime in Colombia was felt throughout the whole country as there was a widely publicised “limpieza social” by those affiliated to illegal groups.
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and santa marta…is just a dream
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“Don’t believe all the hype, even though Colombia has changed a lot for the better, there is still the issue of security which is not comparable to any US cities.”
I am a 6 ft 1in blond gringo living in colombia and I would feel equally safe in medellin or bogota at 3 am as i would in LA or New york. Yes, the large cities are a bit dangerous at night, but no more so than any large u.s. or European city. If im walking alone in Washington DC, Medellin, or Madrid at 2:30 am my risk of being robbed goes up quite a bit. Common sense and a good head, along with a few friends beside you, goes a long way.
All i seem to read about on forums is “i was in (fill in any colombian city) for only 2 weeks and got mugged my second day”. Ive been here 4 months, and I am ultra gringo looking and go out at night several times a week, yet the only problem ive had was an overzealous street vendor trying to sell me a melted 2 liter sprite bottle glued to a piece of wood as table art. perhaps i am just lucky, but I have nothing but good things to say about colombia so far.
Except for aguardiente. the worst hangover Ive ever had.
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I agree with Pat…..for most all of my 6 months living in Medellin, I’ve been perfectly fine enjoying the city and its day and nightlife as an OBVIOUS gringo. I may not be gallivanting around the downtown area drunk, in the early morning hours, but I’ve felt comfortable leaving bars late and getting in taxis home…after a few drinks.
While the locals, especially women, still prefer to call for taxis to pick them up rather than hail one off the street, I’ve never done it that way and always gotten where I needed to go without getting ripped off. The taxi drivers are almost always friendly, and it ends up being a great way for me to practice my Spanish when I’m in the mood.
The only real problem I had was when a Colombian girl pretended to be a guest at my hostel the first month, and ended up stealing some stuff from me and others. But if I’d used the lockers provided, this would’ve been a non-issue. It just forced me to make a long overdue move to renting an apartment.
The Colombians I’ve met, and friends I’ve made, have all been very helpful, whether it is encouraging me to practice my Spanish or helping me network for English students.
I’ll definitely be back sooner rather than later.
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Thanks so much for this. I’ve been hearing conflicting reports about safety in Columbia and this has really put my mind at rest. All the photos I’ve seen of Columbia make me think it’s an incredibly beautiful country that I just have to go to!
Re the first comment about Fox News. ‘Some claim Fox News is conservative’.
Are you saying you think it’s liberal?! To even suggest it’s anything but the hysterical voice of the American Right is plain crazy.
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Now i want to show you some videos, to know how colombia is (Colombia – the only risk is wanting to stay), just follow the links:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rOOFnrdEX8&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUYtF98KgV8&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDr4uFJ5TMc&feature=related
AND REMEMBER IT’S C O L O M B I A NOT C O L U M B I A.
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Re supp: “The author has no clue as to what the city is about or capable of. Medellin is still a very dangerous city and is not recommended to travel alone especially if you don’t speak Spanish.”
“Don’t believe all the hype, even though Colombia has changed a lot for the better, there is still the issue of security which is not comparable to any US cities. One could disappear for good and nobody would have seen anything even the police. Please keep your head on.”
Are you joking with comments like these? Why don’t you just generalize that all of South America is dangerous because you felt fear and found unemployment in Medellin. Just replace the word Medellin with Los Angeles or Philadelphia, same thing. Lets say a French man speaking no English walks into South Central LA. OMG! “one could disappear for good and nobody would have seen anything even the police”
Get real! I have always found Colombia and it’s big cities a lot more safe than you would have everyone believe. Common sense in ANY city is the rule. The people that I have encountered in Colombia are very warm and gracious compared to the states.
RE: Terell “Fox News” is NOT a news organization! It is entertainment for the lazy and uninformed.
RE: Natasha: GO Have fun! Use common travelers sense and go experience one of the warmest cultures you can find anywhere.↵ -
living in Bogota for about 2 years now I feel pretty safe going out partying or at night on the streets in the North. I actually got robbed more in Barcelona and felt less safe in Amsterdam because of aggression on the streets…getting my cell stolen does not really bother me that much. Having my face smacked in by north Africans is a different thing
Living here you just need to take your precautions as anywhere else and than you should be fine…↵ -
Well I am living in the US & I am considering moving out of the US & I am african american & have lived in the US all of my life. I am considering once I get my degree, move out of the US. But my biggest concern is moving where I am welcomed. Any tips on places to move overseas thats receptive to African Americans. I am more than likely moving alone, my son of course would remain back here in the US to attend college. I am excited about possibly moving out of the US. My degree will be in Computer Science. Any suggestions, anybody?
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I have been going to medellin for a month or more every year now since 2002 and have fallen head over heal’s for the place, granted every city in any country in the world has problem’s, i felt more safe there than i ever doing going for a night out in the u.k….In colombia violence is for a reason where as in the u.k it’s mindless violence, going clubbing in medellin is a great relaxed exsperience,
When i was in spain ive come across voilence every night wilst clubbing and again in dorset where iam from, every weekend garenteed i will see something, i have seen atleast 15 stabbing in 5 year’s and multiple beating in dorset club’s even shooting’s….ok now medellin all ive seen in all my time’s there was one car accident,, so really claim colombia’s bad? ok but do not go there exspecting something to happen, that’s when thing’s will happen….↵ -
well ,I have been living in the U.S.A for almost a year ,Im colombian and my biggest dream was always come to the U.S.A ,but after just 1 month i was missing my home ,people , you have no idea how is colombia!!! everybody always receive you with a huge smile and they are always trying to help ,here in the u.s.a a lot of people is rude and don’t like you because you are from another place ,in colombia noo!! if u are from another country the people is kind and try to help you and they are so nice even if u dont speak spanish ,is colombia unsafe??? is normal as any other country in the world!!! bogota is like the 19 biggest city in the world ,so of course it has some dangerous places ,but all the big cities have that problem ,for example try to walk on the bronx in new york at night LOL ,is just common sense people ,everywhere there’s good and bad people ,but believe me is more the nice and sweet and warm people in colombia than the bad people ,all the cities are safe just a few small parts in the very deep jungle are dangerous ,but in the road there’s always a cop or the army ,so is pretty safe ,I don’t know ,i just love my country ,Im going back to colomia in november and Im so happy!!!
I look at new york ,or everything around me and I think “I have everything i need in my country and more!!!” I want to visit the states again ,i meet nice people here too but colombia has that magic thing that makes you go back ,so ,if u have the chance to go to colombia ,DO IT!! you are not going to forget that beautiful experience ,u have to try the delicious food ,the different kind of nature ,and the best thing ,the perfect weather!!! no snow in december !!! LOL is pretty nice ,so ,be open mind guys ,I;m telling you ,my country is just an amazing place ,go and enjoy it !!!↵ -
well well I am a girl from Sweden, blonde, very european looking, every one in colombia knows I am a foreigner from the western world!
in reality people look at me a lot but in sort of a curiosity stare because is still not so normal to see many tourists.
Colombia has improved a lot compared to 15 years ago, they still have a lot of improving to do, but the good thing is that they are getting there!
overall I found colombia refreshing, is not the richest country in the world but is more happy, I lived in Switzerland too and I hated it, everything clean, no crime, no dangers, all picture perfect, rich, developed, high standard of living etc, etc, etc, funny enough I left switzerland feeling depressed and suffering from migraines!
in colombia I found more chaos, more crime, more danger but weird enough I found myself more relaxed, more happy, more easy going than I am in sweden or switzerland
the country is stunning, they have deserts like american south west, mountains like switzerland, jungles like brasil, pacific coast beaches like australia and caribean beaches like jamaica, I really found it magical and very very unique which is something europe has lost due to overwhelming amount of tourists and overrateness of cities like paris, london, rome
if you’re looking to really see a different world from the one you saw your entire life I recommend colombia, I loved it
sorry for my bad english!
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Hey all, the world can be dangerous almost anywhere! My sister and I almost got shot outside the Kodak Theater in Los Angeles in broad daylight by bullets fired from a white Lincoln SUV, aimed at a local gang. Anything can happen anywhere!
@Richard- I, like many others, had many apprehensions about Colombia which I can now ignore!!
I’ve always wanted to go there, but was too scared. Thanks for sharing this.↵ -
I am a U.S. citizen (very blond gringo) who lived in Colombia for 8 years, 6 of them in Medellin and the other 2 living in the Guajira close to the Venezuelan border. I have to agree with Neil. I actually lived in Medellin during both the rise (my first 3 year stint) and the fall (my last 3 year stint) of Pablo Escobar and the infamous Medelling Cartel and never once had anything bad happen to me. Sure there was violence, and you would never ever think of stopping at a stoplight in your car if you were driving late at night…but all of the violence was ‘directed’ violence, never random senseless violence like you experience in the states. If you were involved in the drug trade or a judge or politician who opposed escobar, OR if you were one of the ultra rich, then you might have to worry, but the everyday person on the street was rarely targetted and if they were it was by thieves who can be found in any big city anywhere and you just had to practice common sense and not put yourself in those situations.
The Colombian countryside is astounding, some of the most beautiful and certainly the most diverse I have seen in the world, and I have lived and travelled all over South America and Southeast Asia. But the thing that really makes Colombia stand out for me are the people. They are the happiest, friendliest, most welcoming and generous people I have ever met in any of my travels. They love to laugh, to dance, to sing and to just have fun! And they will invite you to their homes without even knowing you, to join in the food, the dancing and the laughter. Yes, exercise caution when traveling, yes trust your basic instincts when meeting new people (you know that feeling you get in your gut when something just doesn’t seem quite right)…but don’t let anyone or anything you hear on the news, talk you out of going to explore this amazing country!↵ -
Where’s your proof?
I grew up in medellin and look at me know. Attending college in America and doing just fine. Sure i was a local but every time I visit (even with non spanish speaking friends) I feel like I am in any old big city. You could say manhattan and chicago are just as safe or are just as dangerous. Go back for another trip, go to a small shop, invite the owner to a tinto and see if he seems like a strange dangerous man anymore.↵ -
I just returned from a trip to Sincelejo and Cartagena. I spent 10 day in Sincelejo touring the jungle, eating the wonderful food, and enjoying the people tremendously! Catagena was a fantasitic historical experience as well. I am an American and had some serious reservations about going due to the bad press. However, I soon realized (couple of days) it was completely silly, almost embarrassing for me to have reservations.
In fact it made me think about how people in other countries must perceive the US. If I were an outsider and turned on the US news I would think that the US is one of the most dangerous countries to travel in to regardless of what city you go to. However, for US citizen we know that not to be the case. We walk at night, we go to cities, we shop, we talk, etc. However, turn on the news and someone got car jacked, murdered, missing child, etc. But percentage wise its a relatively small occurance based on the size of our population.
So I appreciated the above artical. The bottom line is that the majority in Colombia are good and the minority represent the bad. The news would not be interesting if they reported on how wonderful a country is, its people, its culture, and its FOOD! Instead they report the absolute worste side of it.
At the end of the day you have to experience things for yourself. Formulate educated oppinions based on first had experiences. Not through the news or my cousins uncles donkey told a friend of a friend of a friend that it was bad. I think you will miss out on so much if you do so.
My point is that Colombia was a fantastic experience and I would recommend it to anyone. Its beautiful and rich in life not to mention very very very cost effective (gourmet dinner for 7 $30 in Sincelejo and $70-$120 in Cartagena with drinks). I will definitely go back again!
I hope this provides some of you with some insight as I know I looked at all of the blogs and articals before I went. I think you will find that most people have nothing but good things to say about Colombia.
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