Paris is possible. You do not need a French relative or a dowry of millions. You only need ingenuity and thirst. If you’ve got those, this storied city, the matron saint of expatriation, will be yours.

This guide is for Americans with insufficient funds and little tolerance for endless preparation (or any preparation), for those who rely on that special brand of luck crossed with tenacity and patience. Here’s how to begin: Save no money. Make no plans. Just get on the plane.

Once you get there, as an American passport-holder you’ll have 90 days before your tourist visa expires, so you’d better hit the ground running.

1. Find a place to stay.

Start your sojourn with free accommodations through CouchSurfing. Beyond being completely free, CouchSurfing also guarantees that you’ll meet people who physically live in France, who have a roof, and who pay rent.

You’ll avoid the pitfall of befriending only transients and hobos. Not only will you emerge with a set of Parisian friends, you will gain passage behind the doors of the city and into the lives of its locals. You’ll dispel the stereotypes that keep the timid at bay and grow wiser for it.

Still, finding the right people via Couchsurfing is never guaranteed. Here is an in-depth guide to improving your odds.

Cheap transportation. Photo by austinevan

2. Make money.

For short term employment without papers, you’re restricted to working under the table. France respects its bureaucracy and finding work for cash will take some pavement pounding.

Check the bulletin boards at the American Church, American Library, American University in Paris, and the Real McCoy Cafe. They all post job opportunities for teachers, tutors, nannies, babysitters, and day laborers. For more stable income and to stay legally for more than 90 days, you’ll need a visa.

3. Get a visa.

Multiple types of visas enable you to work. You can become a student and get a student visa, which will allow you to work for 20 hours per week (full-time for an English teacher).

You can become a student by signing up for French classes at any of the many language schools, or you can take a regular course at one of the universities, many of which are surprisingly affordable.

If you don’t want to be a student, you’ll need a work visas.Normally, employers will not expend the energy to get you a visa. But, if you are an American between the ages of 18 and 35 and you want to work in the French private sector (including ESL teaching at a private language school), the French American Chamber of Commerce will sponsor your work visa.

Once you receive a job offer, the FACC will guide your visa application from start to finish. It’s surprisingly easy. Once you get this visa, you’ll be able to access the French national health system, too.

Note: Once you arrange a visa of any kind, you will have to fly to your home consulate to get them to stamp it into your passport. If you are from San Francisco, you’ll have to fly all the way there. Home consulate means home consulate. New York or Boston will not suffice.

4. Find long term lodging.

The bulletin boards are also great for lodging, especially if you want to work in exchange for a room. Otherwise, expect to pay an absolute minimum of 350 euros per month. FUSAC, both in its biweekly print publication and on its website, offers the most apartment listings aimed at foreigners.

The print publication is available for free at English speaking establishments across the city. By advertising to the Anglophile community, landlords are prepared for people who cannot provide multiple guarantors or a year’s rent up front.

Craigslist is a good source for international roommates, while Colocataire will connect you with French roommate seekers. Scared off by high prices? Sharing small spaces here is no faux pas. Get creative.

5. Minimize all expenses.

Lunch. Photo by malias

Lastly, make your dollar count, but stay healthy. The cheapest lunch in Paris is a 150 gram bag of peanuts and a carrot salad from Franprix (a convenience store with locations all over Paris). For about 1.50 euros, you’ve got over 1,000 calories, nearly 40 grams of protein, and all the vitamin goodness of carrots.

You won’t have to eat the poor man’s lunch for long. If there’s one thing you’ll do in Paris, it’s learn how to live right. No matter how broke you are, you’ll find a way to eat the food that perfumes the air and drink the wine that colors cheeks. Not sure how that’ll happen? Don’t worry. The city will help you. That’s why you’re here.

Bulletin Board Locations

The American Church of Paris
65, Quai d’Orsay
75007 Paris
Metro: Alma-Marceau, Invalides

American Library in Paris
10, rue de General-Camou
75007 Paris
Metro: Ecole Militaire, Alma-Marceau

The American University of Paris
6, rue de Colonel Combes
75007 Paris
Metro: Alma-Marceau, Invalides

The Real McCoy Cafe
194 rue de Grenelle
75007 Paris
Metro: Ecole Militaire

Community Connection

Looking for free cultural events in Paris? Check this guide. And for shorter-term travelers to Paris, here’s a guide on how to travel for $100 a day.

Feature photo by _MaO_. Photo above by Tomas flickr.

We all know the old adage: “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.” But in some countries, it’s even more important NOT to do what the Romans AREN’T doing.

Disparaging the royal family in Thailand

Thailand takes its monarchy very seriously, to the extent that insulting the king or royal family, verbally or otherwise, carries a high price.

Just ask Oliver Jufer, a 57-year-old Swiss expat who ran afoul of the lèse majesté law when he defaced portraits of King Bhumibol Adulyadej after a few too many Beer Changs. A Thai court handed him 10 years in jail (out of a possible 75), but his sentence was later commuted by the same king he had affronted.

Showing affection in Dubai

Technically, it’s illegal to hold hands in public in this Emirati tourist hotspot. Try rounding all the bases, as two British beachgoers did in July of this year, and you could find yourself in court at the epicenter of a culture war.

Smoking in Bhutan

Simply bringing tobacco into this tiny Himalayan country is costly—you’ll pay a 100% tax at customs. Smoke in public and you’ll be out $225 more. But if for some reason you’re caught selling tobacco products…that might just land you in a Bhutanese prison on smuggling charges.

Photo by g-hat.

Tagging in Singapore

Among the long list of legally defined no-no’s in this tiny island nation—littering, jaywalking, and leaving a toilet unflushed, for example—is graffiti vandalism. Remember Michael Fay, the 18-year-old American who pled guilty to spray painting cars in Singapore? Then you probably also remember that he was jailed, fined, and given four strokes of the cane for his crime.

Romancing a local in Iran

Iranian law makes it illegal for non-Muslim men to maintain relationships with Muslim women. (Don’t get too excited, all you non-Muslim ladies out there—I’m sure it works the other way, too!) Though rare, arrests of Westerners on this charge are not unheard of, and it’s doubtful that an Iranian jail cell would be your first choice of where to spend the next few years of your life.

Carrying a firearm in El Salvador

To curb gun violence, this Central American nation has strict licensing requirements for firearms. Several tourists have been detained for allegedly violating these regulations, despite at first being led to believe they had obtained all the documents necessary to carry their gun in the country. Moral of the story: leave the weapons at home. Years-long prison terms await offenders.

Photo by Azizul Ameir.

Running drugs in Indonesia

You have to be pretty dumb to dabble in drug smuggling abroad, but even dumber to do so here. While many countries enforce tough drug laws, Indonesia’s are some of the toughest, calling for death by firing squad for those convicted of this crime, regardless of their country of origin.

Slaughtering a cow in India

Though it’s a misconception that “Hindus worship cows,” bovine slaughter is indeed illegal in a number of Indian states. In fact, protection of the animal is enshrined in the country’s constitution. Few perpetrators are actually punished, but the law allows for a hefty fine and imprisonment for up to five years. Just in case you were planning to open a slaughterhouse here, consider yourself warned.

Naming a teddy bear “Muhammad” in Sudan

Teacher Gillian Gibbons found this out the hard way when she allowed her Sudanese students to name the class teddy bear. They chose “Muhammad,” and she went to jail, charged with inciting religious hatred. Though the court spared her the prescribed 40 lashes, she spent eight tense days in custody before being released. Obviously, decrees governing insults to Islam in Sudan are no laughing matter.

Trafficking in cultural antiquities in Turkey

So you’ve found the perfect Turkish souvenir to take home and impress friends and family. But do you know the whole story? If your souvenir falls into the broad category of “antiquity” as defined by the Turkish legal system, and you lack the proper documentation for its possession, your departure from the country may be delayed while you become familiar with the inside of a Turkish prison cell.

Photo by WaveCult (luis.m.justino).

Taking a nip in Saudi Arabia

Officially, it’s against the law to consume alcohol in Saudi Arabia. Period. In reality, expats who live in certain areas are allowed to bend the rule, as long as they do it quietly behind closed doors. But for those who like to play it safe (or are looking for the perfect excuse to kick the booze habit), it’s best to go without. The alternative could be a public lashing.

Breaking and entering in the U.S.

Okay, okay. You don’t want to do this anywhere, and if you do, you deserve whatever punishment you get. But try it in the U.S., where as many as 50% of homeowners keep a gun in the house, and your fate might be decided well before the cops show up.

Community Connection:

Local etiquette varies from place to place, but some things are universal: check out Brave New Traveler’s 7 Ways To Thank Someone For Staying At Their Home.

Feature photo by Guy Incognito. Photo above by <<<...Buddhamountain ...

Whether you’re hucking off a cliff into chest-deep snow, or just taking quiet walk through your local woods, outdoor adventure can be lifelong pathway to health and well-being, and a great way to connect with friends, explore new places, and gain new perspectives on your home terrain.

Thought about trying a new outdoor activity? Here are 11 ideas for 2009. We’ve broken them down into three categories: lifelong skills, high adventures, and adventure-based travels.

Lifelong skills

Photo by <<<...Buddhamountain...

Telemark Skiing

In her recent article, a First Timer’s Guide to Telemark Skiing, Chrysser explained:

Telemark or free heel skiing refers to a turn developed in the Telemark regionof Norway by Sondre Norheim in the mid 1800’s. Like Nordic or cross country skiing, the back heel remains unattached to the ski’s base. This allows for cross country stride and glide on the flats or hiking uphill with sticky skins attached to reach peaks for descents.

Telemark skis are also designed for high-performance downhill skiing. The bottom line: telemarking gives you unparalleled access to backcountry terrain. Or even if you’re just making smooth free-heel turns on the groomers: you’ll find yourself part of a proud community.

Click here for our complete Gear Guide for Telemarking.

Photo by Spencer Cooke

Whitewater Paddling

In his recent guide on How to Get Started Whitewater Paddling, David Miller wrote:

Most people who don’t paddle associate kayaking with adrenaline sports.

And while there is undoubtedly that thrill-seeking element, once you really get into paddling, you’ll find that it’s more about gaining access to places you couldn’t get to otherwise.

This might be an isolated gorge like the one pictured here, a campsite on the bend of a high-desert river 50 miles from any trail, or even on the green face of a wave pumping right through the middle of your town.

And you’ll also learn how friendships and communities are built up around certain rivers and whitewater centers, and that extended families have created entire lifestyles around time spent on the water.

Like winter camping, tele-skiing or winter-camping, paddling is something you can begin this year, and progress with over a lifetime.

Parkour

Photo: Josa Jr.

Stuck in an urban center but still want easy access to a daily outdoor adventure? Check out Parkour. Developed in France and based on soldier’s training exercises during the Vietnam war, parkour is like skateboarding without a skateboard. You traverse the city by athletically springing / climbing / jumping over obstacles.

Surf

Most people who try surfing a few times give up because the hard part (learning to catching waves) comes at you in much greater proportion than the fun part (actually riding waves).

Photo: MillZero.com

That said, if you can put in the weeks and months it takes to truly begin catching and riding waves, you’ll learn more about yourself (there’s a lot of thinking time just sitting out in the lineup, waiting between sets) than almost any other activity.

Winter Camping

Photo by papalar

Most people curtail their outdoor activities in wintertime, especially camping. They’re missing one of the great pleasures. Because winter camping centers all around staying warm, it often leads to “best dinner you ever had” scenarios and truly memorable views of stars or endless moonlit snowfields.

With the proper gear and especially the right group of friends, winter just might become your favorite season to be outdoors.

High Adventures

Snow wall on Matterhorn. Photo by: Ezzzk.

Climb the biggest mountain you can find.

There are hundreds of massive peaks still reachable by mere mortals , as well as truly dangerous summits.

No matter what you plan on doing, however, a day spent climbing a mountain is never wasted.

Go backcountry.

Photo by Andre Charland

Have you put in several seasons on your local ski hill? Feeling confident in your skiing or riding abilities?

To experience the true freedom of the mountains you have to venture into the backcountry. Consider getting your safety (avalanche) training and beginning a new fitness regiment to prepare for hitting the backcountry in 2009. Learn more at our First Timer’s Guide to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding.

Adventure-based travels

Already a hardcore ski-mountaineer, paddler . . . one of those guys that works as a dishwasher in Jackson, WY and summits the Grand before working a double shift? Here are a few travel-related adventures to mix things up if you’re looking for something new in 2009.

Note: Craig Martin contributed the following selections.

Run with the bulls.

Photo by wili_hybrid

Most festivals don’t involve a brush with death, but the yearly running of the bulls in Pamplona gives you the chance to test your sprinting and turning skills to the utmost as ton upon ton of heaving, bristling beast charges up the steep slope and along the city streets.

Hump along with a camel safari.

Photo by shawnbot

These amazing beasts are reputed to be none too friendly, but don’t let that put you off. Camping under the stars after a hard day camel-back riding gives you a chance to kick back, relax and ponder the grand things in life: the wildlife you saw, people you met, the stars, and the pain.

The Australian outback, North Africa, and India are all popular places to give it a go.

Go on an African safari.

Photo: lemoncat1

Prefer big cats to beasts of burden? An African safari will amaze you and might even convince you to join a conservation group.

Reduce your carbon footprint by walking the parks: Kruger National Park (South Africa) has guided walks with gun-toting rangers circling back to the safety of camp each night.

SCUBA Dive the Great Barrier Reef

Photo: dirkyhorn

Snorkeling clear reefs is one thing, but getting past the fear of full submersion and trusting the SCUBA equipment is another.

2009 is the year to get down deep and explore bright coral and alien sea creatures.. The Great Barrier Reef, Australia is many people’s first choice, but try getting your feet wet in Palau, one of the world’s newest countries. It’s a seldom-mentioned gem.

Got something better you’d like to have a go at? Tell us all about it in the comments.

San Cristobal de las Casas. Photo by Cedric Leclere

Best City to Write a Spy Novel

A port city in a former Soviet republic flush with petro-dollars and set in the Islamic world—Baku is a pulp writer’s dream. As depicted through the cacophony of chaotic traffic jams, the scramble of modern and ancient in the Azeri capital could provide a setting for a dozen spy novels.

Keep appearing at the same Chayhana on one of the old city’s winding streets, pour the rose water into your tea just so, and the old men across from you might begin to take you for CIA.

Photo by AudreyH

Sadly, the air in Baku is almost palpable. Oil drilling and heavy industry have contributed to Baku’s ranking as the most polluted city in the world. In a perverse way, the oil industry’s poor environmental practices may in turn contribute to new expat opportunities.

As the multinationals wake up to the environmental impact, they are starting to commit resources to cleanup projects and restoration. Increased funding for environmental consulting and cleanup should lead to new postings for experienced workers across a spectrum of related fields.

After work, and a fragrant saffron and coriander spiced meal with your new Azeri comrades, maybe there will be time left to start writing.

Best City Worth Taking Your Malaria Meds

If not an unmitigated success story, present day Kampala is a hospitable destination in a country that receives coverage for little else beyond humanitarian strifeand a threatened gorilla population.

Photo by Matthew Berry

After the dark years under the regime of Idi Amin, by the 1990’s the Ugandan government under Yoweri Museveni had briefly emerged as something of a success story. Uganda was the first African country to enact policies that achieved substantial reductions in its HIV rate. Museveni has since marred this legacy with his involvement in regional wars and by eschewing term limits while harassing democratic opposition.

Politics aside, Kampala is a beautiful and welcoming city. The seven hills of Kampala seem impossibly green given the density the capital. At 1200 meters above sea level, Kampala is spared the extremes of a tropical climate. Beaming smiles will greet you upon arrival even before the billboard just outside the airport invites you to “enjoy Africa’s friendliest country.” And unlike many other major African cities, Kampala’s streets are safe to walk at night.

The concentration of NGO’s in the city provides work opportunities for foreign nationals. For those in the school that believe foreign aid is a hindrance to development, work in microfinance might also be an option.

Best Place to Wait Out the End of Time

Photo by Ido Mor

Travelers looking to slow down will appreciate the speed bumps on the Pan-American Highway as it makes its approach to San Cristobal de las Casas. With each step off the pavement of Central America’s major artery, time begins to slow. There are the sounds of colonial church bells and the sights at the colorful craft markets on neatly cobbled streets.

If you speak any Spanish, friendly locals on porches and park benches are easily approached and give the feeling you are welcome to stay awhile.

And why not make a sojourn in Southern Mexico? With affordable rents and a low key, supportive expat community, San Cristobal is the perfect place to embark on an extended art project or other DIY endeavor.

Though at tropical latitude, San Cristobal is set on a highland plateau comfortably above the 2000-meter line. This location offers a temperate climate throughout the year; jackets are necessary in the evening. Befriend an indigenous local and listen by the fireplace about what the end of time may soon bring.

Best Urban Adventure

Photo by Adam Baker

A group of backpackers caught the eye of a bleary eyed businessman who dispensed this piece of wisdom from his barstool in Heathrow Airport: “Boys, if you want an adventure, go to Moscow.”

The streets alone provide adventure in Moscow. Cops might prove more a danger than help. Expect a shakedown for improper documents if you get stopped, even if your papers are in order. Brace for disapproving stares during a morning run to the corner store where you attempt to buy water to hydrate from last night’s outing. A Russian would have bought a beer.

Unfortunately, Russia’s booming oil and gas industry has spurred a price inflation that has made Moscow the
most expensive city in the world. Visa requirements are strict, and without a posh international job in hand, the city is out of reach for all but the jet set.

community connection

Looking for more inside information and expert recommendations on unique places around the world? Check out Matador’s destination pages.

Feature photo by nick.butcher. Photo above by Montrasio International.

Top expat destinations are a matter of taste. Some seek the bustle and anonymity of a metropolis; others prefer a quiet life near the beach or in the mountains. Here are a few top picks for a range of international lifestyles.

Best Small City: Ljubljana, Slovenia

The days have passed when tiny Slovenia was the best value in Central Europe.

Slovenes have now exchanged the Tolar for the mighty Euro. But for expats looking for work, that also means wages are paid in the world’s dominant currency.

According to Carys Owen, veteran ESL teacher and 10-year Ljubljana resident, 15 Euros is now the average cost for an hour-long English lesson. The polyglot Slovenes have a ravenous appetite for language acquisition, so a native English speaker can still make a decent living while enjoying Ljubljana’s high quality of life.

Sometimes referred to as little Prague, Ljubljana boasts a striking integration of traditional and modernist architecture.

Photo by Scott Ingram.

The old town winds around both banks of the Ljubljanica River, where sidewalk cafés are always crowded on a sunny day. The marketplace along the river has excellent local produce and artisan products.

The expat bars, loaded with EasyJet tourists on Friday and Saturday nights, provide quiet refuge during the week to meet up with the other teachers and contractors living and working in town.

If the city isn’t enough of a draw in its own right, its location at the foot of the Julian Alps and an hour and a half drive from the Adriatic Sea means you can go skiing in the morning and sailing in the afternoon.

Best Surf and Sand: Dahab, Egypt

Photo by nick.butcher.

Dahab’s days as the sleepy fishing village of backpacker lore may be numbered as the growth of resort tourism on the Red Sea shores continues. For expats looking to stay awhile, however, this is not all bad news.

The resorts have brought increased demand for experienced scuba instructors to work some of the most spectacular dive sites in the world. But Dahab is not a resort town.

Cheap accommodation is still plentiful along the turquoise waterfront, and the slow pace of Bedouin life pervades. If the pace gets too slow, the Sinai is well positioned for excursions to Mt. Sinai, the wonders of ancient Egypt, and the rose city of Petra in Jordan.

Best Hot New City: Shanghai, China

Where to experience the next great expat city?

Those with an eye to the future might consider Shanghai. With the inexorable rise of the Chinese economy, Shanghai is a good bet to become the financial capital of the 21st century.

Shanghai’s dynamism can be seen in the layering of the futuristic skyline, colonial facades, and the teeming, gritty street life. This energy is percolating down to Moganshan Road’s gallery and warehouse studio scene, regarded as the epicenter of contemporary Chinese art.

Photo by seto_supraenergy.

The only mainland Chinese city to crack the top 100 of the Mercer livable cities index, Shanghai already provides a good mixture of affordability, opportunity, nightlife, and culture.

Unlike Buenos Aires, work is not difficult to come by in Shanghai. ESL teachers are in demand, and entrepreneurial spirits can take advantage of Shanghai’s ranking as the best place to do business in China.

Perhaps in time, Shanghai’s tapestry of contrast will inspire the next great expat novel.

Best Adrenaline High: San Gil, Colombia

Photo by Maria Alejandra

Just a few years ago, travel through Colombia’s guerilla plagued countryside to remote San Gil would have been an adventure in its own right.

With the government now firmly in control of the surrounding region, adventure seekers can seek out more conventional forms of adrenaline highs.

Fortunately, San Gil has a little of everything: three whitewater rivers for rafting, kayaking, and canoeing, rappelling, caving, bungee jumping, paragliding, and horse back riding. When time comes to slow the pace, the verdant hills around San Gil offer weeks of excellent hiking.

What distinguishes San Gil from other adventure destinations is that when people find they want to stay awhile, they do. The region is not just a draw for thrill seekers. Immaculate colonial towns nearby provide refuge for writers and painters from around the world.

Photo by Yeraze

Best Big City: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Choosing a great expat metropolis is a matter of timing.

We’ve all heard about the glories of 1920s Paris and 1930s Berlin, in large part due to the nexus of expatriate artists and writers active in those flourishing scenes.

Buenos Aires, the reigning expat metropolis, is very much the right place at the right time.

Long one of the most sophisticated and charming cities of the world, hordes of Europeans and Americans are now capitalizing on the peso collapse that has made the Argentine capital a tremendous value.

Community Connection!

For a wealth of information about living overseas, check out one of Matador’s favorite websites, Transitions Abroad.

Feature photo by Micah Sittig. Above photo by Leduardo.

Dallas Fort Worth (Terminal D)

Completed in 2005, DFW is capable of handling up to 37,000 passengers per day with the aid of Skylink- the world’s largest airport train. The first major American airport terminal to be built post 9/11, the terminal features the most advanced security features available with state of the art systems.

Photo by James Cridland.

London Heathrow (Terminal 5)

The world’s newest airport terminal cost £4.3 billion ($8.5 billion USD) and is going to revolutionize air travel with totally redesigned check in and departure procedures.

A state of the art baggage system works in partnership with computers at security, check in and departures, making sure your luggage only boards the plane if you do. So no more delays due to a late passenger’s bag being offloaded.

[Editor's Note: In spite of the airport's promise to revolutionize air travel, the opening of the new terminal was riddled with problems. Before passing through Terminal 5, you might want to check out some of the documented complaints.]

Denver International Airport

The white, peaked, fabric roof of the Jeppesen Terminal minimised the building’s impact on this stunning region with its backdrop of the snow-capped Rocky Mountains. With six de-icing pads- each capable of holding five planes – and with all de-icing fluids collected and recycled – the terminal operates in even the worst conditions.

Beijing Capital International (Terminal 3)

Built to meet the increased demand of the 2008 Olympics, passengers can expect to have their luggage just 4.5 minutes after the plane in unloaded, thanks to a $240 million luggage transfer system. With the dedicated Olympics Hall, passengers can expect a seamless journey.

Photo by Emrank.

Kansai International, Japan

Built on a man-made island in the middle of Osaka Bay, airport engineers had to deal with the high risk of earthquakes, typhoons, storm surges, sinking of the reclaimed land and the construction of a 3km long bridge to link the airport to the mainland.

The airport has sunk 8 meters already, so architects have placed adjustable columns under the terminal to compensate for the shifting land. Despite that sinking feeling, the airport has emerged unscathed from several severe earthquakes that have hit the region in recent years.

Singapore Changi

Stuck in the airport for a while? Why not take advantage of the free Singapore tour that will whisk you into the city to see the sights before your connection departs. Or you can relax in the spa, fitness area or pool, book into the in terminal hotel for a quick sleep or perhaps just wander around one of the nature trails.

If you have the energy, check out the 24 hour shopping, free Internet, and free movie theatre, or perhaps just grab a sunlounger for a nap before your flight.

Photo by Zionorbi.

Incheon International, Seoul

The only airport in Asia to have ILS Cat-IIIb– an instrumental-landing device that allows airline operation when visibility is as low as 50 meters–as well as a host of other incomprehensible software and hardware, Incheon suffers few diversions or cancellations due to extreme weather conditions and is regarded as one of the safest in the world.

East Midlands Airport, England

Named most eco friendly airport in the world, East Midlands has focused its technology on decreasing its carbon footprint. The airport is working towards carbon neutrality by 2012 and has installed ground-heating pumps, wind catchers, water recycling facilities.

Airport planners also hope to include wind turbines to fill up to 10% of its energy needs.

Madrid Barajas International (Terminal 4)

Photo by Philip C..

The world’s largest airport in terms of terminal area– 1 million square meters (11 million sq feet) — its new terminal was designed with a range of environmentally friendly techniques that allow natural light, and the associated heat, to reduce energy needs.

The 1km long wing shaped building is an open plan, allowing light and travellers to move freely from check in to departure.

Hong Kong International

In a city where space is at a premium, an entire mountain was flattened to create the 13km sq island on which this airport stands- increasing the size of the city by 1%.

With an integrated transport centre, the airport is linked not only to central Hong Kong but also to mainland China. The airport is also notable for its partly automated customs and immigration system on site (rather than at the border), to allow smooth passage onto the mainland.

Click here for more information and here for everything you could possibly want (and not want) to know.

Featured and above photo by Luz A. Villa

1. President Uribe

Love him or hate him– and there appears to be no standing on the fence here– Bush’s best buddy in South America has increased security, dealt some serious blows to the guerrillas, presided over economic growth, and encouraged tourism into a “conflict zone.”

Did you know that Colombia, in stark contrast to its Latin American counterparts, has only suffered one coup d’état and one dictatorship in its history, way back in 1953…although the students hollering out there in the streets would have you believe that current boss is no better than a dictator.

Photo courtesy of Medea Material.

2. Fading FARC Influence

Whisper it carefully and in well-chosen circles, but the FARC and ELN Guerrilla groups are possibly at their lowest ever ebb.

Controversial events such as the rescue of Ingrid Betancourt and the three American contractors from the southern jungles of Guaviare, as well as the deaths of leading FARC members Raul Reyes, Ivan Rios, and founding member Manuel “Tirofijo” Marulanda, have led many commentators to declare FARC a tired anachronism.

3. The conflict is not aimed at you.

Cocaine and kidnapping. Sure, cocaine and marijuana are regularly available, and your decision to meddle in the marching powder is what keeps Colombia’s warring factions in business.

As for kidnapping, unless you are an aid worker attached to an international NGO, a crusading journalist or just plain crazy, why would you be traveling alone through the forests of Guaviare, Vaupes, or other outlying regions where there is the very real threat of being kidnapped?

Photo by Juan Felipe Castaño.

4. Reputable Bus Firms

Overland travel, even at night, with reputable bus firms between the major cities of Bogota, Cartagena, Medellin, Santa Marta and intermediary cities such as Barrancabermeja, Bucaramanga, Ibague, Manizales, Villavicencio has become acceptable and frequent.

5.US State Department Warnings

Come on! If you were to follow these to a T then you would never leave the prairie. Apply some common sense and listen to what the locals have to say; after all, this is not Baghdad.

6. Secure Urban Areas

Walk around Bogota’s Zona T and Zona G or Medellin’s El Poblado and see how lightly the Colombians themselves are taking life. Some 15 years ago you would have thought twice and then thought better of a night out here in Medellin, but now it’s how to stay in and detox that is the main concern.

Photo by John Schneider.

7. Colonial Cities

For small perfectly preserved whitewashed and cobblestoned oases of calm, make your way to Popayan, Mompos, Villa de Leyva, and San Gil.

Cartagena is a little more frenetic and plagued with street vendors but then it’s been receiving tourists for decades.

8. Tourism is booming

But don’t let this put you off; come now before the rest of the world catches on. Cartagena and Bogota are still the most visited areas of the country, closely followed by Medellin, but what does it tell you that a country with a long running internal conflict received a little more than two million visitors in 2007?

Photo by Alvaro Vega.

9. Colombians

War weary and decidedly unhappy with their narco-fueled image as perceived by those only glued to Fox News will have you believe – are arguably the friendliest bunch in the Americas.

If you’re lost In Brazil, a local will show you home. But in Colombia you’ll be invited to the family cookout that day or the following!

10. Still Afraid?

In this case you are advised to head only to the Colombian Caribbean islands of San Andres and Providencia – as they say over there, “no hay guerrilla maritima,” “there’s no sea-based guerrilla!” Grab a coco loco and hit the beach.

community connection

Various matador members can vouch for Colombia as a being the next place you should travel. For local guides and experts, blogs, feature articles, and travelers you can connect with directly, check out Destination: Colombia at Matador.

The Camino de Santiago de Compostela has been a popular pilgrimage since the Middle Ages. During the last 20 years it has experienced a huge re-awakening with tens of thousands travelling it each year. In this podcast Craig Martin offers a brief, practical guide to the Camino, covering route choice, guidebooks, packing tips, credencials, accommodation and some extra suggestions for the end of your pilgrimage. As you listen, check out the fantastic photos of the Camino by Irene Schmidt. For more background and an audio tour of the trail, listen to the author’s companion podcast, An Audio Tour of the Camino de Santiago. We’d also recommend reading up on the various Camino organisation websites: the Confraternity of St James, American Pilgrims on the Camino, and the Canadian Company of Pilgrims. While you’re visiting the Confraternity site, you should pick up a copy of their guidebook, published each January with updates on the site. Check out the traveler’s notebook on iTunes.

The Camino de Santiago de Compostela has been a popular pilgrimage since the Middle Ages. During the last 20 years it has experienced a huge re-awakening with tens of thousands travelling it each year.

Click the play button below:

For more historical background plus tips on walking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela check out the Check out Adrea Kirkby’s Walking the Camino de Santiago, and Laurie Pickard’s 4 Lessons Learned from the Camino de Santiago Pilgrimage.

Stay tuned for Craig’s follow-up podcast: A Practical Guide to Walking the Camino de Santiago, coming soon.

Check out the traveler’s notebook on iTunes.

There are almost 80,000 dams in the US. In nearly every case, they isolate fish populations, collect sediment, alter water temperatures, lower oxygen levels, and disrupt flow cycles. The riverine habitat is completely changed or destroyed.

The good news is that rivers can recover, and quickly, if given the chance. Dam removals across the country are showing us how the environment reacts when the dam is taken out. Natural flow conditions develop quickly after the majority of the sediment is removed and species diversity often doubles.

Beyond the rivers, floodplains and wetlands in the surrounding landscape are revitalized by the restored flow. The new vegetation growth helps the animal populations. In addition, local economies are finding that the removing dams creates new sources of revenue via tourism.

According to a 2007 report, 273 dams in the United States have been removed since 1999. Most of these dams are so old that ripping them out is cheaper than the maintenance bills. Many don’t even provide power anymore.

If you live in the United States, chances are good that a dam near you has been removed recently. Some of the places–such as the 5 listed here–rank among the most interesting and inspiring destinations of 2008.

1. Cove Dam, Bear River, ID

Photo by katsuu.

When PacifiCorp removed the Cove Dam in late 2006, it was a worn-out hydroelectric dam that no longer generated electricity.

The removal reconnected 29 miles of Bear River (which is the longest river in the U.S. that doesn’t reach the ocean) and restored fish-spawning tributaries. Fish habitat and water quality have improved. Native cutthroat trout are thriving and native plants have reclaimed the formerly flooded areas created by the dam.

Bear River is a whitewater boating and fishing destination. You can also find all the hiking and camping you can handle in Cache National Forest and Caribou National Forest.

Sadly, the Bear River is threatened with the proposal of a new dam on the Oneida Narrows section. This dam would destroy trout habitat and flood a wintering range for elk. Join Idaho Rivers Unitedin fight this proposal.

2. Whittlinger Dam, Yellow Breeches Creek, PA

Yellow Breeches Creek in Pennsylvania is widely known as an excellent trout fishery. In late 2007, the Whittlinger Dam was removed in an effort to restore Yellow Breeches to a free-flowing state. The old dam was not economically beneficial and had been deemed a hazard.

The dam removal has opened options for paddlers and habitat for migrating fish. This area is especially popular due to its proximity to the Appalachian Trail. Lower Allen Community Park in Mechanicsburg provides camping spots and creek access. More access points and maps are available here .

3. Marmot Dam, Sandy River, OR

This dam removal has been well documented. Oregon Public Broadcasting has a short video of the removal. The Marmot Dam website also has a great time lapse video.

The sediment was not removed during demolition. It was expected that the river would wash it away in the following months or years. It took one day. Within three days, salmon were migrating past the former dam site.

Part of the dam’s former power output is being replaced by current and planned wind farms.

When the Little Sandy Dam, the next dam in the project, is removed this year, the habitat for the salmon will be extended even more. The land recovered from the dam removals is being donated to form part of a nature refuge and recreation area.

With Mount Hood nearby, the area is a popular outdoor recreation destination for every activity you can think of.

4. Hersey Dam, Hersey River, MI
This dam, which had not produced power since the 1940s, was near the mouth of a cold water trout stream – completely blocking the Hersey River off from the fish in the Muskegon River.

Photo by Hamed Saber.

Dam removal in Michigan is rare, because the state has trouble approving the cost for removing obsolete and unsafe dams. The removal of the Hersey Dam was funded mostly by private organizations interested in the fishing and environmental improvements.

With the dam gone, trout and other fish are able to move freely between the Muskegon and Hersey Rivers.

There are plenty of activities available in this area. Hike and bike the Pere Marquette Trail, and paddle and fly-fish the Muskegon River .

5. McCoy-Linn Dam, Spring Creek, PA

This dam had been known to breach during storms and had not provided electricity since 1950. After its removal in late 2007, a riverfront recreational area was created, downstream water quality improved, and fish habitat was extended.

With part of it named Fisherman’s Paradise, it isn’t surprising that Spring Creek is considered by many to be the best wild trout stream in Pennsylvania. Fishing conditions, boat accesses, and maps can be found here.

Hiking and camping opportunities can be found nearby at Bald Eagle State Forest and Rothrock State Forest.

The Future

As people become more aware of how our actions affect the environment, many are realizing that green energy is much more than just avoiding coal and oil. We must be careful to not disrupt natural habitats. For example, don’t cut down trees to make room for solar panels . Don’t clear forests to create biofuel plantations. Don’t dam our rivers for hydroelectric power. There are better ways to do this.

Spend a little time at one of these rivers, bring your family, and you’ll see why.

photo by brtsergio

Though green is not the color that usually comes to mind when you mention Milan, it is quickly becoming a hotspot for green activity. In January 2008 the Milan mayor introduced the “Eco-pass,” a toll that older cars have to pay to enter the center of Milan to discourage traffic within city walls.

Practical Information

Milan is a city that is navigated wonderfully without a car, though having access to one may be helpful on weekend trips.

To/From the Airport

The Milan Malpensa airport is located about 50 minutes away from the city center and is Milan’s biggest airport. Upon arrival, you can choose between a bus shuttle service, a train which are cheap and convenient alternatives to taking a (fixed price) 70-euro taxi.

Two different bus companies leave every 15 minutes to the Central Station (with a stop at the Convention Center). Upon arrival you can easily take the Green (M2) or Yellow (M3) metro lines, or several bus lines. The Malpensa Express train service leaves every 30 minutes and arrives at Cadorna Station, where the Red (M1) and Green (M2) metro lines are, or walking distance to the heart of the city.

Milan Linate is the smaller airport closer to the city. A taxi will cost anywhere from 15-30 euro, depending on where you need to go. Otherwise a public bus (Bus 73) leaves regularly and for the cost of a regular bus ticket, 1 euro, you can exit the bus near the Duomo (Piazza San Babila) in about 15 minutes where the Red (M1) and Yellow (M3) metro lines are.

A private bus shuttle leaves every 30 minutes and makes the trip from Linate to Central Station. Orio al Serio in Bergamo is almost the same distance as Malpensa from Milan and is a good option for short trips.

Two shuttle bus companies leave from Central Station to Bergamo airport every 15-20 minutes.

Metropolitana – Milan’s Metro and Public Transportation

photo by brtsergio

While Milan’s metro system can be considered relatively small with its 3 lines and regional trains crisscrossing the city, when combined with the bus and tram lines, it is extensive and relatively easy to navigate. Many bus stops now have electronic wait indicators. Take a mid-century tram ride to enjoy a throwback to earlier times.

ATM’s website has an excellent “Calculate Path” function that helps you discover which public transportation will get you from one point to another. Bicycles can be brought onto the metro but only on weeknights after 8pm and on weekends.

Renting Bicycles

Milan’s bicycle-sharing program, similar to Paris’s Velib, is currently promised by the City Hall to be in effect in 2009. Still, there are already some 60km of pathways if you have access to a bicycle.

Be careful when riding in the city center as the tram rails can trap wheels and be just as dangerous as the traffic itself. Critical Mass Italy, the pro-bicycle group movement, also has a presence in Milan and gathers every Thursday.

Car Sharing

If you’re going to be traveling in and out of Milan often, or for an extended period of time, you should definitely consider utilizing their CarSharing program supported in part by the Milan City Hall and ATM.

After you pay the low yearly fee (currently: 120euro per nuclear family), you can rent a car with less than an hour’s notice from several CarSharing depots around the city. Afterward, just pay by the hour and kilometer.

Guidami (in Italian) and MilanoCarSharing (Italian).

Gastronomy

The wonderful thing about eating in Italy is that most dishes are made with simple, fresh ingredients, and celebrate vegetables and fruit in-season.

Slow Food was founded in Italy (and is also active in the US) as a statement against fast food, and they often have Slow Food events in Milan to expand your gastronomical horizons.

Slow Food publishes a book, “Osterie & Locande d’Italia: A Guide to Traditional Places to Eat and Stay in Italy” which lists restaurants throughout Italy that adhere to their principles. They also provide consulting for Eataly, based in Turin, which is billed as an Enogastronomic Marketplace and also has a small bottega in Milan in the basement of the Coin store at Piazza Cinque Giornate.

Outdoor Markets

Shopping for fresh produce in an outdoor “mercato” market is one of the finest pleasures of being in Italy. Milan is full of outdoor markets that are active different days of the week and on most Saturdays. A complete list of markets is available on the Comune website, but two that are very good on Tuesday and Saturday are the large Mercato di via Papiniano (Metro: Porta Genova/S. Agostino) and Mercato di Piazzale Lagosta (Metro: Zara).

Natura Si is one of many health food stores in Milan, and most Italian supermarkets have sections of products that are considered biologico (organic) or equosolidale (fair-trade).

Happy Cow has a list of vegetarian restaurants and health stores in Milan.

If you’d prefer to have a home-cooked meal in someone else’s home, Home Food is an interesting alternative. Dine in a “Cesarine’s” home with other travelers. A temporary membership is available for non-residents and special dinners can be arranged for a minimum of 2 people.

A visit to Italy just wouldn’t be complete without gelato, Italy’s form of ice cream. When looking for your next scoop, be sure to get the most natural ingredients possible and look for produzione propria or artigianale to indicate it was made in-store.

Grom (also now in NYC) offers “natural gelato” with detailed information about its ingredients. Look for more Milanese gelaterias on the Tour del Gelato.

Attractions

Green Spaces in Milan

On a beautiful day, Parco Sempione (Metro: Cordusio) will be full of joggers, families, and groups playing and enjoying a shade break under the many trees. This is also a good picnic spot if you’ve bought your own food. Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli (Metro: Porta Venezia) is slightly smaller than Parco Sempione but a stone’s throw from the busy shopping area on Corso Bueno Aires with plenty of benches for a picnic lunch.

Further away from the center, the very large Parco Nord offers many green spaces. Parks.it has a listing of all parks in the area. A quick train ride to Lago di Como or Lago Maggiore will have you surrounded with green.

Museums and Exhibitions

Attached to the Parco Sempione is Castello Sforzesco, inside of which are several museums. From there you can make use of the zona pedonale or pedestrian zone stretching from Via Dante in front of the castle to the Piazza del Duomo and its surrounding area. The Leonardo DaVinci Science and Technology Museum (Metro: Cadorna) often has exhibits related to the environment.

Recycling

While you’re out and about, you will notice there are several receptacles for trash and recycling. In many cases, their bags are color-coded to distinguish from Milan’s regular (and in this case, confusing) green trash containers.

If they are not color-coded or labeled in English, you can tell where to throw by noting these translations: Carta (Paper), Plastica (Plastic), Aluminio (Cans) and Vetro (Glass).

Another recent introduction in the metro are the free quotidiano newspaper recycling containers called salvagiornali, which in their first year, are purported to have saved 1 million kilos of newspaper. Take the time to throw your newspapers in these designated containers.

Accomodation

Renting an apartment instead of staying in a hotel will have a positive effect on all around you as you can control the amount of water and electricity being used as well as how often you change linens. You can also prepare simple meals at home using local produce.

Slow Travel is an organization that advocates “slow” vacations and staying in one place for an extended period of time to immerse yourself in the culture.

Some short-term apartment lets websites in Milan are Halldis and RentXPress. Ariston Hotel is billed as an ecological hotel, but there is no association for ecological hotels in Milan at this time. Legambiente, the ecological organization in Italy, has a list of hotels in Italy that are considered ecological.

Community Connection

Click here for more blogs, local experts, organizations, jobs, and volunteer opportunities in Milan as well as other places throughout Italy.

Puerto Rico’s south shore, from the mountains of Jayuya. Photo by Oqueando.

Say Puerto Rico and a palette of tropical greens and blues comes to mind. But the smallest island of the Greater Antilles archipelago is also among the most environmentally challenged.

Measuring approximately 100 x 40 miles, Puerto Rico is home to 4 million people and more than 2 million cars, and is the site of mega-development construction activities that threaten not only the coastal areas, but also the interior mountain regions.

Now, more than ever, making greener choices for travel in Puerto Rico is crucial.

Practical Information

Puerto Rico’s main airport is Luis Munoz Marin International Airport (airport code: SJU), located within the capital city, San Juan. At present, no train service is available from the airport and most hotels do not provide shuttle service. There isbus service however, as well as taxi service (look for the “Taxi Turistico” designation). When exiting the terminal, look for dispatch stands, where you will receive a receipt and be directed to a cab.

Puerto Rico is officially a commonwealth, or free associated state, of the United States. At present, no passport is required for American citizens who wish to travel from the mainland U.S. to Puerto Rico. Puerto Rico’s currency is the U.S. dollar. English is widely spoken across the island. The island’s area codes are 787 and 939.

Outdoor Activities

Puerto Rico has incredible geographic diversity, which means that you can enjoy a range of outdoor activities. Bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the north shore and the Caribbean Sea on the south shore, the points between are surprisingly mountainous and feature karst formations, coffee plantations, and El Yunque, the only tropical rainforest in North America.

Bioluminescent Bays

Must-do activities include visiting one of the three bioluminescent bays (also known as bio bays or phosphorescent bays) on the island, which are located in the southwestern fishing town of La Parguera, the eastern port city of Fajardo, and the island of Vieques.

Fajardo and Vieques offer the greenest options for bio-bay excursions, as tour operators in these two areas use kayaks rather than motor boats to enter the bays. A recommended tour operator is Nestor Guishard and his company, Travesias Yaureibo, which is fully owned and operated by Vieques residents.

If you must go a bio-bay excursion in La Parguera, a recommended outfitter is Paradise Scuba and Snorkel. Luis, the owner of this family run operation, can also customize daytime kayak trips in the mangrove’s waterways, where you’ll see iguanas sunning, and windsurfing activities.

Sailing, Scuba, Snorkel

Sailing and snorkeling are also popular activities, and there’s probably no couple who knows the island’s waters better than Bill Henry and his wife, Dr. Ingrid Klich, an earth scientist, owners of the company, Erin Go Bragh Charters. Bill & Ingrid offer full day trips and are rated highly on TripAdvisor for their knowledge, warmth, and sailing skill.

Surfing

Puerto Rico has good surf, and few places are more popular than the northwestern city of Rincon. If you’re confined to the metropolitan area’s north shore, though, locals favor La Ocho, just a stone’s throw away from the Caribe Hilton, located between Condado and Old San Juan. Another favorite spot for locals is Ocean Park. Just off Park Boulevard, you’re likely to find some ripping surf, as well as a local shop owner who’d be happy to rent you a board or gear for windsurfing and kitesurfing.

Outdoor Education

If you’re interested in outdoor education, check out the Fideicomiso de Puerto Rico’s guided tours of its properties, Hacienda Buena Vista in Ponce (Puerto Rico’s second largest city) and Cabezas de San Juan in Fajardo. Hacienda Buena Vista is a former coffee plantation located on a massive and gorgeous property; guides offer walking tours of the grounds, particularly attractive to photographers and nature lovers. Cabezas de San Juan is an ecological reserve with several different ecosystems. Be sure to make reservations in advance; neither site permits same-day tours.

Eats

Puerto Rican cuisine is heavy on fried foods, surprisingly short on seafood, and is limited in its use of spices. Typical food can be sampled at any of the roadside kiosks (“kioskos”) along the highways and back roads, both on the coast and in the interior of the island. Favorite local dishes include mofongo, a mashed green plantain dish that can be elaborated with either meat, chicken, vegetables, or seafood, lechon or roasted pig (preferably a la varita—on the spit), and empanadillas, dough stuffed with a meat, chicken, or seafood filling.

Lodging

Hands down, the best and greenest lodging option in all of Puerto Rico is Villa Sevilla Guest House, located in Rio Grande, just outside the El Yunque rainforest and only 25 minutes or so outside of metro San Juan. Operated by hosts Marina and Wally Lawson, Villa Sevilla consists of four lodgings—ranging in size from the smallish La Casita to the three bedroom Chalet—all perched on the mountainside, offering views of the Caribbean. In 2007, Villa Sevilla built a non-chlorinated pool on their property, which is an amazing addition to their carefully tended properties. All lodgings have a kitchen.

For more ideas, please visit our Before You Go Guide to Puerto Rico.

Several members of the Matador Community are from Puerto Rico, including Nadja, and Raquel.

Please follow up here for more blogs about Puerto Rico from Matador.

Las Vegas skyline. Photo by Christopher Chan

Rafael Riviera left his Santa Fe scouting party on Christmas Day in 1829. He traveled west, getting lost before discovering a lush valley with native grasses, tall cottonwoods and cool, clear spring water. He called the oasis Las Vegas, Spanish for “ the meadows”.

Pristine riparian areas are not what comes to mind when traveling to a city even people in the quiet corners of the world know about. But a scan of the horizon beyond the strip finds snow covered mountains, forest wilderness and red rock geology on all sides of the valley. For anyone wanting more than a “what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas” experience, there’s plenty of outdoor excitement to lure you away from the gaming tables.

Once You Arrive

When I moved to Las Vegas in 2004, we called the metro buses, CAT, (Citizens Area Transit) by a different name: Call a Taxi. The schedules were so erratic your bus might never come. A French company took over in 2005, purchasing hybrid coaches and sand colored double decker buses called “Deuces.”

Now getting around Sin City on public transit is a snap. Once you arrive at McCarren International Airport, buses leave from the lower level every 15 minutes towards the strip and downtown. Shuttles are provided by every major hotel/casino and taxis plentiful.

If you are staying on the strip and want to explore, opt for ground transport via a Deuce or go airborne on the monorail. Walking along the famous boulevard is an adventure in urban hiking, sidewalks teeming with citizens from all over the world.

No reason to rent a car unless you venture out to the wild areas listed below.

Where It All Began

About 12,000 years ago climate shifts started morphing the southern Nevada terrain into desert. The valley’s meadows provided vital lifelines for the Southern Paiute, who used the springs as a gathering place for trade with other tribes. The tradition continued when others discovered the region, shifting from Conestoga wagons, trains and jet planes over the centuries until Las Vegas evolved into the adult playground we know today.

To get a sense of place and history, start with the Springs Preserve. Encompassing 180 acres where it all began, this state of the art facility opened in 2007. A complex of interactive museums, walking paths, gardens, Wolfgang Puck’s version of organic cuisine, and an amphitheater for outdoor concerts, the springs represent the true heart of Las Vegas.

Bridge through the Gardens at the Springs Preserve

Curiosity is rewarded with thorough investigations of the geologic, ecological and cultural history. Each weekend the preserve hosts events highlighting important conservation topics, with smart water use always in the forefront in an area averaging 3 inches of rainfall per year.

Classes and workshops on xeriscaping, irrigation, recycling and sustainable construction are ongoing, serving the Las Vegas community and others committed to sustainable living. The Gardens at the Spring are supported by the Southern Nevada Water District, encouraging home owners to displace water sucking lawns with desert friendly native vegetation, paying cash for every square foot of sod converted.

In a city associated with consumption, the Springs is a model for environmentally sound design. All the buildings are LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) Certified, constructed with recycled materials, utilizing solar energy and designed for sustainability in a harsh desert environment. The Inside Out section displays step by step how the buildings were put together in the context of a soft human footprint.

Hiking, Camping, and Skiing in the Forest

Thirty minutes from downtown Las Vegas discover the Spring Mountains National Recreation Area , 316,000 acres encompassing three wilderness areas, ten campgrounds, four hiking trails, Mt. Charleston Peak and the Las Vegas Ski and Snowboard Resort. Like all the mountain ranges in the Basin and Range, Spring Mountain is a biotic island, supporting flora and fauna found only in this part of the world.

An early summer hike from a base elevation of 3000 feet to the top of Mt Charleston at 12,000 feet, is a lesson in wildflower diversity and ecological transition. Camping requires a reservation four days in advance, but plenty of spaces are available if you plan ahead. This is where to go in during the summer, a perfect cool refuge from triple digit temperatures in town.

Red Rock Canyon Conservation Area

The Red Rock Conservation Area, is a 17 mile drive west from the strip on Charleston Avenue/ State Route 159. Take the scenic loop drive or advantage of 30 miles of hiking trails, cycling routes, or harness up and see the geology face to face. Red Rock Canyon is a favorite among climbers. Nevada’s only conservation area is in the center of the Mojave Desert; from the clean vistas it’s hard to believe Las Vegas is just over the ridge.

Tip: If you hit the visitor’s center at lunch time, watch endangered desert tortoises determinedly follow their human keepers for second helpings of sweet strawberries.

Buddhist Donuts Anyone?

Practically every conceivable ethnic cuisine is available in Vegas, with eclectic eating places tucked away in each part of the city. A personal favorite is Ronald’s Doughnuts, owned by a pair of Buddhists in the Asian Section on Spring Mountain Road. The doughnuts are 90% vegan. Being a lifelong Krispy Kreme addict, I scoffed; but the honey glazed, apple fritters or any of the other “healthy” choices will make even the most skeptical fried dough connoisseur leaving with a dozen to go.

For visitors preferring their meals uncooked, find one of two Go Raw Cafes to satisfy cravings for all things fresh, crunchy and fibrous. There is one right off the strip and another 7 miles west on Sahara

Walking distance from UNLV, (University of Nevada-Las Vegas), The Sunflower Farmers Market on Tropicana offers a complete selection of organic produce and earth friendly munchies plus an excellent deli . Stroll on campus to have a healthy picnic in the arboretum before taking in the Majorie Barrick Natural History Museum’s collection of Native American and pre-Columbian art.

It isn’t a Vegas trip if you don’t do at least one buffet. The Wynn’s version offers many vegan and vegetarian selections. This relatively new Vegas landmark has an open, airy interior and you’ll be patronizing a resort owned by the Springs Preserve most generous contributor.

Where: 3131 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (Desert Inn Rd.)

The Bellagio Conservatory and Botanical Gardens is a must see. The hotel’s management rejects “better life through chemistry” in their horticultural practices, using biological controls such as lady bugs and other insects to keep pests and disease in check.

A café off the main floor and a pastry shop just down the way make for an idyllic breakfast.

A City Constantly in Flux

Las Vegas continually re-invents itself, tearing down old landmarks ( circa the1980’s) and building new. With all this rapid-fire change, the city planners finally recognize a need to embrace environmentally sound construction and manage it’s exponential growth. The MGM City Center opens in 2009 on the south end of Las Vegas Boulevard, another LEED project incorporating water reclamation, heat recapture technologies and energy efficient lighting.

Las Vegas can be more than “bright lights, big city”, Sin City style holiday. It can also be an exploration of a long established Mojave oasis and its evolution into the 21st century.

Bangkok is a gritty metropolis, a hodgepodge of concrete structures, sparking temples, and disorganized dwellings. Motorcycles continuously weave between cars, smoke billows from food carts, and pedestrians meander through the commotion. Yet beneath the chaotic veneer, more serene aspects do exist, providing a welcome respite for the green-minded traveler.

Getting Around

Several eco-friendly modes of travel are possible, thanks to the efforts of environmental-minded policymakers. Taxis and buses have switched to run on liquefied petroleum gas, a cleaner alternative. Well above the frenetic streets, the electric BTS Skytrain has turned getting around in Bangkok from a sweltering nightmare into a zippy, air-conditioned ride.

Operating from 6am to midnight, the BTS stops at points along three major arteries: Sukhumvit, Silom, and Sathorn. Fares depend on distance, running up to 40 baht ($1.30) per trip. The MRT subway supplements this elevated rail, providing access to points further from the city center.

Carbon-free Activities

Bangkok air is noticeably improving, making for pleasant outdoor activities during cooler hours of the day. Suan Lumpini (MRT: Lumpini), the city’s largest park, teems with fitness fanatics. Join the locals who for free aerobics classes every evening or come early in the morning for group Sun Salutations (BYO yoga mat).

For a more leisurely pace, visit Benjakitti Park (BTS: Asok) on the grounds of the state-owned Thailand Tobacco Monopoly. Rent bikes or pedal boats, or linger in the well-kept gardens for a whiff of the sweetly pungent odor of tobacco leaf processing.

Other parks include Suan Rod Fai (MRT: Chatuchak), a former golf course and favorite venue of film crews; and the funky Suan Santi Chai Prakarn on Phra Athit Road where jugglers, breakdancers, and capoeira artists congregate.

If you have more time, take a day trip to Bang Kra Jao, a relatively unknown green area within city limits. With waterways and paths snaking through near-pristine wilderness, Bang Kra Jao is easily reached by boat. Several eco-tour operators can arrange transport and bike tours.

Temples throughout Bangkok provide a near-instant sense of peace amongst the pandemonium. Some also offer courses. Wat Mahathat on Na Phra That Road is a center for Vipassana (“Insight”) meditation study with daily classes, some in English.

At nearby Wat Po, or Temple of the Reclining Buddha, follow the stone inscriptions of yoga and massage techniques to the temple’s traditional Thai massage school. Inquire about classes or plop down on a no-frills wooden bed for a bone-crunching pressure massage (don’t worry, you’ll be fine afterwards).

Green Eats

Bangkok is famous for its street food and if you have a semi-iron stomach, taste everything, from tangy papaya salad and deep-fried grasshoppers to coconut-based sweets. Squeamish foodies need not fear, however, as fresh markets such as Or Tor Kor (MRT: Kamphaeng Phet) offer similar dishes in a clean setting.

For excellent Thai vegetarian food, visit Anotai, tucked behind a row of shophouses in Soi Rim Klong Sam Sen off Rama IX Road. Anotai serves organic vegetables from their farm outside Bangkok, soy-based “mock meats,” and homemade ice cream in flavors such as santol, custard apple, and atomic orange-colored Thai tea.

Govinda in Sukhumvit Soi 22 provides another unique vegetarian experience. In a dining room adorned with images of Krishna, Govinda serves great pizza and pasta, as well as more creative Italian stuffed “chicken,” “sausages,” and “seafood” dishes.

Near Chatuchak weekend market (MRT: Kamphaeng Phet), Santi Asok, an unconventional Buddhist sect, whips up an organic vegan buffet. Egalitarianism is paramount: communal seating is a must, food is priced at cost, and you must wash your own dishes.

Places to Crash

The Tourism Authority of Thailand has devised a green standard, the Green Leaf Certificate, for hotels particularly committed to eco-practices. From the luxurious Banyan Tree and Grand Hyatt Erawan to the more moderately priced Royal Princess, Novotel, and Imperial hotel chains, there are Green Leaf-certified rooms for many budgets.

For a homey setting, choose the family-run Old Bangkok Inn on Phra Sumen Road. Within walking distance of historic attractions and Khao San Road, the hotel’s eight rooms incorporate recycled hardwood, Thai floral themes, and family heirlooms. Showers dispense solar-heated water and the inn matches guests’ donations to various charities. Rates start at 3,190 baht ($106) per night.

For something completely offbeat, book a stay at the Atlanta Hotel in Sukhumvit Soi 2, identified by the sign “This is the place you are looking for, if you know it. If you don’t, you’ll never find it.” Rules abound at this European art deco-inspired establishment: No sex tourists, no drugs, no troublemakers, no pop music… Proclaiming a non-profit agenda, the Atlanta offers single occupancy rooms for as low as 500 baht ($17) per night.

Heads Up

From March to June, the weather can become unbearably hot and humid. Monsoons arrive in July and continue until October. From a green perspective, this is the best time to visit. Bursts of rain are typically scattered throughout the day, granting a reprieve from the heat, infusing the air with the fresh scent of damp earth (yes, even in Bangkok), and rejuvenating the city’s much-needed greenery.

Community Connection

Connect with these matador community members: AsianInsights is an expert on Bangkok and Thailand in general. Ryan Libre teaches photography workshops based in Thailand and Japan. For those interested in volunteering on an organic farm / sustainable community in Thailand, please read the following article.

Photo by Mor (bcnbits)

Barcelona might not seem green to the untrained eye. It’s told that at one point in the early 1900s, city planners included one park per city block in the Catalan capital, but somehow that never happened. Still, Barcelona, or “BCN,” has an abundance of small parks scattered throughout the city, plus the beach, and plenty of green travel options. Check it out:

Get Outdoors

Ciutadella Park

Want to go for a walk and see people dancing, juggling, and practicing Capoeira? This is the park for you. Located right in the city’s center with plenty of shade trees, grassy areas, and free entertainment, Cuitadella is Barcelona’s most popular park. If feeling adventurous, rent a paddle boat for a half hour and tour around the man-made pond.

Montjuic Park/Mountain

Take the tram up to Montjuic from the city center and spend the day exploring its trails and taking in views of the city. Most people go to Montjuic to visit the National Art Museum and Miró Museum (highly recommendable), and then leave, missing all the fantastic pathways and hidden fountains. The best course of action is to start with the museums in the morning and then walk down the mountain to get back to Barcelona’s Plaza Espanya. It’s all downhill and shaded with trees. The paths are good and continually cross roads, making it impossible to get lost.

The Beach, but not Barceloneta

Barcelona didn’t used to have a beach. It is, in fact, all man made. That said, the city has done a stellar job of creating a beachy-BCN. Starting with the nude beach south of Barceloneta and extending far to the north, Barcelona’s beaches are packed in the summer with swimmers, vendors, and people basking in the Mediterranean sun. I do not advise the carefree visitor to swim at Barceloneta beach, the city’s closest patch of sand and sea. Frankly, it’s dirty. If swimming without plastic bags and contraceptive devices appeals to you, then go north, and then go a bit further. Mar Bella and Nova Mar Bella are the best bets for taking a dip. The water is warm and the sand is basically clean. If not swimming, any of Barcelona’s beaches are enjoyable.

Guinardo Park

A little known park with winding trails and nice views, Guinardo is tucked into a residential area of uptown Barcelona. Here you’ll find locals walking their dogs and making-out among the tree lined pathways. To get to Guinardo it’s necessary to grab the Metro from the center for a 15 minute ride, getting off at the Guinardo stop, and then walking up, up, up. It’s a steep climb up a series of stairs but the park affords nice views of the city and is rarely crowded.

Collserola Park

Though not exactly in Barcelona, it’s the largest park in the area. With 8,000 hectares of green space, Collserola offers trails for hiking, biking and strolling. As the website boasts, ‘Collserola is 22 times bigger than Central Park.’ So there. This is also the place to go for a BBQ. It’s illegal to have a BBQ within Barcelona’s city limits (but don’t think for a minute that this has stopped people from trying), so those who like to grill flock to Collserola on Saturdays and Sundays. Lucky visitors might spot a wild boar or badger, some of the park’s infamous wildlife. Collserola is a twenty minute train ride from Barcelona’s center.

Photo by Ben Polansky

Go Eat

Want to find the best lunch in BCN? Barcelona’s outdoor markets provide the freshest produce, seafood, and meat available, and are wonderful places to immerse yourself in the local community. Click here for a complete guide.

Our picks for vegetarian and organic dining options:

Organic : In the Raval neighborhood with lots of vegetarian options.

where: Carrer de la Junta de Comerç, 11

Arco Iris Is in the Eixample and has a daily special. They even do vegan dishes.

where: Carrer Roger de Flor 216

Buen Bocado Restaurant: My favorite falafel bar in BCN. Clean, inexpensive and delicious. Perfect for a quick lunch. There is some seating, or take your falafel outside and sit in the adjacent square.

where: Carrer Escudellers, 31, Ciutat Vella

Getting Around…the Green Way

Grab your map and hop on a bike, or a train. (Additional train link here.)

Community Connection

In addition to author and Barcelona resident Regina WB, many Matador members have spent extended time there, including Matador co-founders Ross Borden and Ben Polansky. Check out their blogs and guides, including tips for travel planning in BCN, picks for craziest bar, reports from Sónar music festival, and much more here.

Photos by Kery Libby

Practical Information

Atlanta’s Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport, considered the busiest passenger airport in the world, is expansive, but the inter-terminal train arriving in two-minute intervals shuttles passengers around quickly and efficiently. Getting from the airport to the downtown area, which is about 15 minutes by car, will take longer by MARTA, the city’s public transportation system, which does have an airport hub. Public transportation doesn’t have a loyal or dense ridership in the South, but most of the places in our green guide can be reached by MARTA, which includes rail and bus service.

The Great Urban Outdoors

Whether you’re a whitewater paddler or a grassy lawn picnicker, Atlanta has an ideal spot for you. Here are some of our favorites:

The Chattahoochee River and Recreational Area: You’ll need a car to reach this National Park Service site, which boasts 50 miles of hiking trails, 48 miles of river for canoeing, kayaking, and rafting (rental gear available in the park), and trout fishing for the angler. There are also trails for biking, mountain biking, and horse riding.

Chastain Park: In the summer, Chastain Park’s amphitheatre is THE venue for music under the stars. Past performers have included hometown duo the Indigo Girls, Norah Jones, Lyle Lovett, and many more. The 2008 calendar features Santana, The Moody Blues, Sheryl Crow, Duran Duran, Donna Summer, REO Speedwagon, and others. Unlike most other concert venues in the country, Chastain still permits picnics during events (bring candles!).

Piedmont Park: Dropped right in the center of the city, the 185 acre Piedmont Park is a hot weekend spot for locals. You can rollerblade, skate, bike, run, fish, grill, and play soccer, tennis, or volleyball on Atlanta’s favorite playground.

University Parks & Greens: Atlanta is a college town, and though their green spaces are often overlooked, these are some of the finest and best tended natural spaces in the city. Our favorites are Emory University’s Lullwater Park and the quads of Agnes Scott College and Spelman College. The Carter Center, associated with Emory University, also has an excellent outdoor park that’s so peaceful you’ll find it hard to believe you’re even in the city.

Arts & Culture

The High Museum of Art: The High Museum of Art has always been the visit-worthy centerpiece of Atlanta’s art and cultural institutions, but a recent renovation and a partnership with The Louvre (yes, THE Louvre) make the High a must-see for the art lover. If time is short, be sure to focus on the Folk Art Collection, which features work by popular outside artist Howard Finster.

National Black Arts Festival: Though the name suggests that this is a summer festival (which it is), the NBAF is also an organization that offers year-round programming at various locations throughout the city. Events include the visual arts, music, theatrical performances, literary readings, film series, and more. Guests are local artistic luminaries and ingénues, as well as nationally and internationally acclaimed performers.

Eats

Arguably the culinary capital of the South, Atlanta has a host of restaurants offering organic and/or locally sourced food. Some of our favorites are The Flying Biscuit, Watershed, Your DeKalb Farmers’ Market (an enormous international farmers’ market and food court),

Shopping

Atlanta’s Virginia Highlands neighborhood is great for walking and shopping, and offers plenty of places to stop for a coffee or tea, a snack, or a meal. There are also green shops along North Highland Avenue, including the organic lifestyle boutique, Eco Bella, and, on Saturday mornings, the Morningside Farmers’ Market.

Lodging

Emory University’s Conference Center Hotel, not just for conference goers, is Green Seal Certified. The hotel is set in a wooded area that’s integrated into the Emory campus, providing easy access to Lullwater Park. It is also within walking distance of a MARTA bus stop.

The Gaslight Inn is consistently ranked as travelers’ favorite B&B in Atlanta, and its location makes it just a short walk to restaurants, shops, and the Morningside Farmers’ Market.

The Atlanta Hostel is for the budget-minded traveler, and is also within walking distance of sights, shops, and restaurants, as well as public transportation.

Community Connection

Various members of the Matador Community are from Atlanta, such as Editor David Miller, and sustainable business entrepreneur Chris Johnson.

Also, a couple prominent members have been road tripping through the ATL lately, including Eva Holland, and Keri Libby, who wrote the the Low Down on How to Throw Down in Atlanta parts 1 and 2.

Practical Information

By air, you’ll probably arrive into one of DC’s two major airports – Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport (DCA), or Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD). From DCA for just $1.65 one way, the city center is a short 15 minute subway ride directly from the airport. From IAD, a $9.00 bus pass on the Washington Flyer coach bus drops you off at the Metro West Falls Church subway station in about 30 minutes or the cheaper Metrobus takes you directly to L’Enfant Plaza station for just $3.00

If entering the district by train, all Amtrak, MARC and VRE commuter trains arrive into Washington, D.C.’s Union Station. From there, you can connect with its metro rail system and ride around the city. By bus, the Greyhound Bus Terminal sits directly behind Union Station on the Metrorail’s Red Line. Washington, D.C. boasts one of the cleanest and most accessible subway systems in the country and also covers significant areas within its neighboring states of Maryland and Virginia.

Landmarks

Washington, D.C. is renown world-wide for its wealth of museums per square area from the instantly recognizable Washington Monument to the Smithsonian Institute with its slew of free museums. The landscape is dotted with history-laden memorials such as the Lincoln Memorial, Jefferson Memorial, National World War II Memorial, Korean War Veterans Memorial, and Vietnam Veterans Memorial, most within walking distance from each other if you’re up for the task or at the very least metro accessible.

Arts and Culture

There is no shortage of things to do in Washington, D.C. and the Washington Post maintains an extensive Arts and Culture guide to the city.

Markets

From the freshest fruits and vegetables to other home-made organic products, you’re sure to find what you need in one of Washington, D.C.’s numerous farmers’ markets. The famous Eastern Market, located on 7th St. between C St. and North Carolina Ave is the only 19^th century market in the region still operating today. In addition to a farmers’ market which is open on Saturdays and Sundays, it hosts a flea market and an arts and crafts market. Other area markets include FreshFarm markets which organizes markets in neighborhoods such as Dupont Circle, Foggy Bottom, and Penn Quarter with over 30 farmers providing fresh bread, poultry, prosciutto, cheeses, and pies in addition to produce. Be sure to check out About.com’s comprehensive listing of Washington D.C area markets.

Green Space

Known as American’s Front Yard, and an instantly recognizable sight in movies such as Forrest Gump, the National Mall is a large city center park which links various monuments and connects key government buildings. On any day, rain or shine, you can find residents jogging or simply enjoying an outdoor lunch in the park. There are many other green spaces and trails around the District. The enormous Rock Creek Park, twice the size of New York’s Central Park, Potomac Park, as well as Anacostia Park which boasts recreational opportunities such as boating provide solace from the urban jungle. Also located in DC, is the United States National Arboretum, a major center for botanical research with a wide assortment of flora and trees.

Eats

It’s no secret that the nation’s capital is a cultural melting pot of influences from all over the world. From neighborhoods such as Chinatown to Dupont Circle, a bad meal in D.C. is pretty hard to come by. However, there are a couple eats going the extra mile. Cashion’s Eat Place located in the famous Adams Morgan district provides a slew of scrumptious, organic dishes. Restaurant Nora is an upscale restaurant and was the first to be certified organic in the country. Hook located in Georgetown provides seafood and other local organic produce. The wildly popular and eco-friendly hotspot, Java Green, is setting a great example by using wind power to offset its carbon footprint, using biodegradable products, and supporting small farmers by participating in fair trade. VegDC, touted as the vegetation guide to Washington, D.C. provides a listing of restaurants and organizations.

Sleep

Green TravelHub provides a list of “green” hotels in the D.C area from the low end Days Inn to the pricier Fairmont Hotel, all doing their part to conserve energy and water using efficient lighting, low flow showers and toilets, and actively recycling. For the budget conscious traveler, the American Guest House Bed and Breakfast located in Dupont Circle provides quaint rooms and complimentary hot breakfast serve daily. The Kalorama Guest House is a bed and breakfast with two locations: a Victorian townhouse in Adams Morgan, and a location in Woodley Park On the high end, Hotel Palomar located in Dupont Circle is an eco-friendly boutique hotel that recycles, provides organic beverages, using soy-based ink, uses energy efficient bulbs, and uses low flow systems in an effort to conserve water and reduce its environmental impact.

Other Information

Green Festival held every year in the District and other cities around the country is a way for environmentally conscious organizations and individuals to trade ideas, network, and build the promote lifestyle. Other great resources include National Geographic’s Green Guide and GridSkipper’s Your Eco-Friendly Guide to the District.

Photo by Trey Ratcliff

Whether this is your first or fifth time to Paris, making greener choices in your travels will lead to a deeper and richer experience. This succinct guide will get you started.

Paris has two main airports, Charles de Gaulle and Orly, which both link to the center of town via bus and RER. Another airport which has become busier with the rise of low cost airlines like Ryan Air is Beauvais. It is accessible from central Paris by shuttle, 13€ one way.

If traveling by train, your point of arrival will depend on which part of France you are coming from. Gare du Nord serves the north; Gare de l’Est serves the east. Gare d’Austerlitz serves southwestern France and northwestern Spain, and Gare de Lyon serves most of the south including Geneva and Italy. All stations are conveniently located on Metro lines.

The Paris Metro is part of any true Parisian experience. It also happens to be the second busiest metro system in Europe, after Moscow, but don’t let that intimidate you. When traveling in Paris, always have a map of the metro with you. Consult it at your leisure instead of getting stuck in the crowd of tourists standing in front of the main map in the station. Download a wallet sized one at the RATP website. The Metro runs from 5:20am to 1:20am, plus an additional hour on Saturday nights. Tickets can be purchased individually, for 1.50€, or in a book of ten, for 11.10€. Paris Visite passes are also sold, and work on both the Metro and buses; the one, two, three and five day passes range from 8.50€ to 27.50€.

When in Paris, bicycling is also an excellent option for getting around. Paris joined the ranks of other bike friendly cities like Amsterdam and Stockholm last year with the institution of the city-wide, self service, bike rental program Vélib. Pick up a Vélib bicycle — 24 hours a day, 7 days a week — at one station, ride to your heart’s content and then and drop it off at the next. 30 minutes worth of bike riding is free, but after that, for only 1€ per day you can’t beat the price as well as the ease of the system. If you’re planning on exploring Paris for a few days, consider buying a week pass, which costs 5€.

Don’t forget that Paris is an ideal city to walk in; take some time to explore small streets and alleyways and you never know what you will come across. Don’t be afraid of getting lost; it’s sometimes the best way to make new discoveries.

Activities

A great way to get a taste of local culture is to stroll through one of the many famed Parisian outdoor markets. Most markets will offer a large selection of locally grown produce as well as cheeses, meats, and artisan items. Some of my favorite markets include Rue Mouffetard, which is actually one long street of artisans and market stands, Monge Market at Place Monge, and Bastille Market on Boulevard Richard Lenoir near the Bastille.

On Sunday afternoons many of the roads that run along the Seine are closed off to vehicles and left to a sea of pedestrians, inline skaters, and those just out to enjoy a romantic promenade.

La Promenade Plantée is a must if you are feeling a little overwhelmed by the constant honking and stress of Parisian streets. Located above the Viaduc des Arts, the Promenade Plantée is a 4.5 kilometer elevated walkway, covered in flowers and greenery. Once an above ground railway, the walkway follows Avenue Daumesnil, allowing you to easily traverse the 12e arrondissement while staying above the street action.

Paris’s most central garden, Jardin des Tuileries, can occupy you for a whole afternoon. Connecting the Louvre to the Place de la Concorde, Jardin des Tuileries is a meticulously sculpted park where you can grab a free chair and sit where you like to take in the people, sculptures and general natural beauty in the heart of the city.

For more Parisian green spaces, like the Montmarte Vineyard, see my guide at Matador Travel, The 5 Best Green Spaces in Paris.

Arts & Culture

In Paris there is always something going on. To find out exactly what is filling the Parisian streets, bars and stages, consult online event magazines for English speakers like Metropole Paris and Paris Voice.

Close to the Eiffel Tower you will find the Musée du Quai Branly or MQB for short, which features indigenous art, cultures and civilizations from Asia, Africa, Oceania and America. But besides its global exhibitions, the “greenest” thing about this museum is its look: designed by architect Jean Nouvel, the exterior of the museum appears to be a living wall.

A personal favorite of mine is the Musée du Picasso, nicely located in the pedestrian friendly Marais neighborhood. Farther to the west in the 4th arrondissement lies the famous Centre Georges Pompidou, which has constantly changing shows on modern and contemporary art as well as cinema showings, performances, and cultural debates.

Place des Vosges is a large square with art galleries and shops housed in buildings around the perimeter. During the summer various classical music groups stop in the square to play for all who pass by, adding a local soundtrack to your stroll.

Green Eats

There’s nothing like buying a baguette hot out of the oven, finding your favorite cheese at the market and heading for a good park bench to enjoy an afternoon Parisian picnic. The promenade along the Seine is also a prime spot for enjoying an afternoon meal en plein air. If you want to stock up on organic goods, look for the Bio label; this stands for biologique and is the organic standard.

Dans le Noir – Lighting up a restaurant consumes energy, so what better way to eat green than in the dark? That is exactly what happens at Dans le Noir where your meal is served in total darkness. The restaurant’s staff is blind, adding to the unique experience.

BIO Art – Located in the 13th arrondissement and facing the Seine, BIO Art is as much a scenic restaurant as it is green. The emphasis is on Mediterranean cuisine, lots of fish and fresh vegetables. Add to the kitchen philosophy an interior with large windows allowing for natural light and a dining room designed around feng shui concepts, and you have all the ingredients for some real French bien être.

Accommodation

For travelers on extended stays, renting a Parisian apartment can be a great option, allowing you to come and go as you please and cook meals with all the fresh produce you picked up at the market. Craigslist Paris can be a good start as individuals list their vacation rentals directly on the site, often with pictures. Bed and breakfasts, or chamber d’hôte in French, which let you stay as the guest of a French host, are an excellent option of you are looking to immerse yourself in the local culture. Some companies like Good Morning Paris find the host and set up all logistics for you.

If you are looking for a more standard hotel or hostel, the options can be overwhelming. Bootsnall fortunately has a great guide to different kinds of Parisian accommodation for any budget. If you want to stick to green accommodation look for the European Union’s official accreditation, the EU Eco Flower Label.

Anna Brones is a freelance writer with a love for travel. She has a BA in International Relations and French Studies and has lived in Sweden, France, Guadeloupe and the Pacific Northwest. Her work has been featured in Transitions Abroad, Pology, Green Mama, Matador Travel, and Traveler’s Tales A Woman’s World Again.

Halifax, Haligonia, Halifornia, HFX, or simply Hali – fiercely beloved by its residents, this is a city of contradictions: steeped in naval history and lined with stately Victorian and Edwardian homes, it’s also home to a hip student population and some of the kickingest nightlife in Canada. With a potent local music scene and a growing reputation for fine dining, Halifax has something for everyone – whether you want to chow down on cheap vegetarian sushi, do the drunken jig at a traditional Maritime pub, or hit an all-ages hiphop show. Good eating and hard drinking are a big part of life here, and with this guide it’s easy to stay green and still join in the fun.

PRACTICAL INFO

Halifax is located on Nova Scotia’s southern shore, on a narrow peninsula between Halifax Harbour and the Northwest Arm, both inlets of the North Atlantic. The city has merged, for administrative purposes, with neighbouring communities on the opposite side of the harbour narrows and around the inner basin, but Halifax proper is where you’re likely to spend most of your time.

Halifax International Airport receives direct flights from several US cities as well as major cities in the UK, and trains come in a few times a week from Montreal. There are also ferry services from Portland and Bar Harbor, Maine, to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia – from there, you can reach Halifax by bus or car. The nearest land crossing from the US is at the border between Calais, Maine, and St. Stephen, New Brunswick.

GET OUTDOORS

Point Pleasant Park is a sprawling green space on the very tip of the peninsula, laced with paths for jogging, cycling, or just plain walking along and enjoying the views of the ocean or the leaves changing colour in the fall. The park was devastated by Hurricane Juan in 2003 – 12,000 trees were destroyed – but it is still a beautiful, peaceful spot for people-watching, exercise, or relaxation. Follow South Park Street or Tower Road to the park entrance.

The Public Gardens were also hard-hit by Hurricane Juan, but have been largely restored. Bounded by Spring Garden Road and South Park, Summer, and Sackville streets, the gardens are a manicured respite from the busy downtown streets. Open from May 1 to November 1, they’re beautiful to walk around – but stick to the paths: this is a Victorian park, and the grass is strictly for looking at, not for lounging on.

The Halifax Common is another large green space in the heart of the city, stretching between Robie and North Park streets. It’s played host to such big-name acts as Pope John Paul II and The Rolling Stones, but most days you’ll find high school football teams training, people jogging, and kids tossing a Frisbee or kicking a soccer ball around. There are baseball diamonds, a skate park, a couple of fountains, and a city wading pool, all for public use.

Fort George, more commonly known as the Halifax Citadel, is a Victorian-era fortress, designed to protect the city from attack by those darn Yankees. It’s open seasonally for tours, but if theater students in period costume aren’t your thing, the real attraction is the ground the fortress is built on: the imposing Citadel Hill. A climb to the top offers unbeatable views of the harbour and the city; in winter, it’s also a killer tobogganing spot.

Halifax Harbour isn’t all that easy to get out on under your own steam – it’s a major, working industrial harbour, and tourists aren’t allowed to just paddle out and about as they please. There are a number of boat tours that operate out of the waterfront area, from tall ships to amphibious vehicles to your basic booze cruiser – the greenest and most interesting, when it’s in town, is probably the Bluenose II, a replica of the legendary Grand Banks fishing schooner that is featured on the Canadian 10-cent coin. For a cheap look at the harbour and a good view of the waterfront, take the ferry across the narrows to sister-city Dartmouth and back.

There is limited, basic camping on McNab’s Island, a 1000-acre provincial park located in the mouth of Halifax Harbour. Come here for hiking, bird-watching, or to explore the military ruins – no fires permitted, and everything that comes on to the island with you, should leave with you too.

If you have a car, there’s a gorgeous stretch of beach a half-hour west of the city at Crystal Crescent, and good (cold) surfing at Lawrencetown, just east of Dartmouth on Highway 207. Also, again if you have access to a car and have the time to get out of the city, check out one of North America’s greenest road trips, a great loop that begins and ends in Halifax.

ARTS AND CULTURE

Check out The Coast, Hali’s excellent free alternative weekly, for the latest word on live music, gallery events, theater, movies, readings, and more.

GREEN EATS…

Bob and Lori’s Food Emporium should be your first stop for green-friendly eats. It’s a funky old place on Gottingen Street, near the Common, and the food is cheap and memorable. Bob buys his veggies from local Annapolis Valley farmers, and his coffee from Just Us! Coffee Roasters Co-op, Canada’s first fair trade operation. Almost everything – from the fresh bread and oatcakes right down to the hummus, mayonnaise, and soynaise – is homemade on site. The sandwich and soup combo is a hearty meal – all of Bob’s soups are mind-blowing, and try the tofu salad sandwich. The vegan chef salad is also a great fresh option, and the veggie burger is to die for. In fact, pretty well everything on the menu is fantastic (except the perogies, which come from a frozen bag). It’s not all vegetarian, either – the ham and cheese sandwich is a crowd favourite, as are the traditional Newfoundland fishcakes (served with “chow,” a green tomato relish) on Fridays. Open for breakfast and lunch, this hippie haunt is highly recommended.

After over a decade as Halifax’s go-to pay-by-weight veggie buffet, the Heartwood Bakery and Café has recently renovated and gone to a set menu with table service. Check it out on Quinpool Road.

A couple of other vegetarian/organic/local-friendly options include Satisfaction Feast Restaurant, on Grafton Street, or The Wooden Monkey on Argyle Street. For green-friendly groceries, try the fantastic Halifax Farmers Market, in the atmospheric old Alexander Keith’s brewery building near the waterfront, or Great Ocean Natural Food Market, on Quinpool Road.

…AND DRINKS!

How better to go green in a drinking town like Halifax than by supporting your local microbrewery? Halifax boasts two genuine craft microbrewers, Propeller and Garrison. Look for their products in pubs throughout the city, and if you’re with a large group, arrange a tour (and tasting session) at the breweries themselves. Two larger brewers also got started in Halifax, the mid-sized Oland, and the giant Alexander Keith’s, whose signature IPA is on tap across Canada.

For more green-friendly bakeries, restaurants and grocers in the Halifax area, check out HumaneFood.ca’s Halifax listings. Also, feel free to wander in to almost any downtown eatery or pub that catches your fancy: almost all are locally owned small businesses that are worth supporting.

For more restaurant and pub recommendations in Halifax, see my Matador Guide to Budget Dining and Drinking in Halifax.

ACCOMMODATION

Halifax Backpackers Hostel is a friendly indie hostel on Gottingen Street, near the Common. Halifax Heritage House Hostel, near the train and bus stations, is the city’s Hostelling International location. The YWCA on Barrington Street is a good cheap option if you’d like your own room (women-only, though), and also a good cause to support: the place also houses a battered women’s shelter. The YMCA near the Public Gardens welcomes both genders to its single rooms. In summer you can also rent dorm rooms at St. Mary’s University, Dalhousie University, or my own alma mater, University of King’s College. (Hint: Kings campus is the prettiest!)

TRANSPORTATION

Unless described as being out of town, everything in this guide is within walking distance. The city and surrounding area is hilly, but biking is a popular option and a great way to get out to some more far-flung sites: rent your own at Pedal and Sea Adventures. Metro Transit runs buses and ferries in the area.

Eva Holland is a historical researcher and freelance writer living in Ottawa, Canada. She blogs about travel for World Hum and Vagablogging, and her writing has appeared in The Ottawa Citizen, The Edmonton Journal, and Matador Travel.

Photo by lubright

Perhaps the color most closely associated with Key West, Florida is blue. The clear skies and clean waters produce a consistently beautiful setting, ripe for outdoor activity. A visitor commenting on the glory of the environment on any given day can expect to hear “just another day in paradise. . .” from any local listener. The ranks of people who appreciate the value of sustaining this splendor are growing, and if the recent city-wide initiative to join the Cities for Climate Protection Campaign is any indicator, the new color associated with Key West will be green.

The city itself is involved in efforts to bolster its recycling program and implement and enforce reasonable water restrictions, among other things. The Keep Key West Clean & Green Committee has developed significant momentum, and as businesses and other organizations in town pick up the banner, eco-conscious tourists will have an easier time minimizing the impact of their visit.

Lodging

The Hyatt Key West and The Banyan Resort are two lodging facilities which have recently received Green Certification from the Florida Department of Environmental Protection. They utilize a range of methods to achieve this status, including switching to green cleaning products, installing high efficiency air cleaners, putting high efficiency lighting on automatic timers, and installing low-flow water fixtures. The Banyon in particular, has made considerable progress in its push to green. The building, a restored wrecker’s home, is an historic landmark. Management has made extensive efforts to preserve its lush gardens, introduced xeriscaping on the property, and installed solar panels. In addition, the resort has attempted to facilitate the recycling process within the property for staff and guest alike, including posting recycling instructions in every suite.

Both of these hotels are located right downtown, so it’s an easy walk to Duval Street, shops and restaurants, water activities, and nightlife.

Transport

Those who want to explore the island will need a little more mobility. Bicycles are available for rent by several outfits, and they can even bring the bikes right to your front door. Bicycles are a great option because the entire island is only eight square miles – you could get around the whole thing in a couple of hours if you wanted to. If you’re not that comfortable with riding, electric cars are recommended. These are also readily available from a handful of operations, and can be useful if you have youngsters who might tire quickly on a bike, or if you want to do some shopping. Be aware that parking can sometimes be a troublesome issue, especially if you’re there during the height of the season or the weekend of a big event like Powerboat Races. If you don’t want to be bothered with renting at all, consider taking a pedicab as opposed to a regular taxi. You can take in more of the sights and sounds of the street and engage in some informative and entertaining chatter with your driver as she pedal-powers you wherever you want to go. A tip: ride the Conch Tour Train before you rent your transportation. You’ll learn some cool background stories and get the general lay of the land, plus the trolleys run on propane.

Landmarks, Culture, Events

Make Fort Zachary Taylor one of the stops on your trip. It’s only a couple of bucks to get in and the money supports the maintenance of the state park. Tour the fort and learn the amazing history of this obscure military outpost. It’s a great place to entertain the kids or find a secluded, romantic spot. They have changing rooms on site, and vendors for lunch or snacks. The park also hosts art exhibits, plays, and concerts on different occasions.

The Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Gardens offers another opportunity to learn and have fun with a sustainable cause. The 7.5 acre Gardens acts in part as a wildlife refuge, dedicated to the care of local and endemic species of plants and animals (many of which are becoming increasingly rare and endangered) as well as taking part in research and educational programs on the grounds. They maintain two of the last remaining fresh water ponds in the Keys and act as a vital migratory stopping point for neo-tropical birds from as far as South America. See a short film and take the tour. The Gardens is full of life, from orchids to turtles and butterflies to iguanas, and the Gardens strives to cultivate this life that has been or is currently threatened in the Florida Keys.

Wind down the day or crank up the night at the Mallory Square Sunset Celebration. The sun disappearing behind the Gulf of Mexico provides the backdrop for this tapestry of tight-rope-walking dogs, Maori fire dancers, escape artists, local musicians, and eccentric magicians working all over the pier. Local artists and craftspeople display original works, from jewelry to paintings to coconut postcards. There’s no admission charge; the performers play for tips. They and the vendors pay for the privilege of the location, and that fee benefits the agenda of the Historical Preservation Committee.

If you happen to be in Key West on the third Thursday of any month, take advantage of another free cultural attraction. Traffic is shut down on White Street for the Night on White Gallery Walk. All the art galleries are open late and serve coffee, wine, and refreshments.

Eats

The best place to eat on the island boasts the simplest name. The Cafe is located on Southard Street, just a half-block off Duval. The not-exclusively-vegetarian establishment offers a diverse and delicious menu in a really cool vibe.

Around the corner on Simonton Street is the Sugar Apple. It’s a health food store that also features a vegetarian juice and sandwich bar serving both cold and hot food.

If you subscribe to the “when in Rome…” theory, make sure to help the city on its green mission when you’re in Key West.

Bradford Whipple has been a commercial fisherman for over twelve years and has seasonal sites in Florida, Oregon, and Alaska. Check out his travel blog on Matador or at DeepSeaGangster.com.

Photo by Taylor Williams

First things first. This isn’t the “White Guide to Boston,” so if green – grass, trees, plants – is what you’re seeking, visit Beantown between May and October.

This is not to say traveling to Boston in February would be a complete disaster – but you know what, don’t. Just don’t. Spring, summer and fall are just too good in Boston to waste a trip in the middle of winter. Plus, you’ve heard about the icy demeanor of New Englanders? Multiply that by ten when there’s two inches of slush on the ground and a teeth-chattering wind is blowing off the “hahbah.”

(Leaf-peepers need to time their trips pretty meticulously so as not to miss optimal viewing of God’s kaleidoscope that appears every fall in New England)

Disclaimers behind us, Boston is one of the greenest cities – in both the Al Gore and Kermit the Frog definitions of the word – in the United States. The left-leaning, young and active core of the city’s population makes sure they have ample places to relish in the area’s natural beauty, commute around town responsibly, and eat organically. This means the green traveler will find plenty to do – and eat and drink – in and around Boston.

Here’s a sampling…

Transport

They don’t call Boston “America’s Walking City” for nothing. You can literally get most anywhere in the metro area – from the core of the city as far out as Lexington and Concord or the Boston Harbor Islands – using your feet or public transportation, including the daily improving subway system (the T), above-average water taxis and ferries, and local buses. So don’t even think about renting a car when you come, or else send back your Sierra Club membership card immediately. The T is pretty easy to navigate, and if you get lost, fire up the notebook computer in a WiFi Café and click over to HopStop.com, where you can find riding and walking directions to just about anywhere.

Also, pick up a copy of Car Free in Boston, a self explanatory little booklet that will give you the very best Boston experience, exhaust-free.

To Do

Sure, there’s always the hyper-touristy Duck Tours and the Freedom Trail – the 2.5-mile walking path past many of the city’s historic spots downtown – but I’ll focus on some of the activities you likely won’t find in The Rough Guide. Take an eco-cruise out to the Boston Harbor Islands, a surprisingly fun day-trip that departs from UMass-Boston on Mondays for only $5 per person. (if you want to go on another day of the week, ferries leave several times daily from near the New England Aquarium, but tickets are $12 a person and the trip less ecologically focused) En route, you’ll get some unique skyline views from the water, and the wildly diverse set of islands offers camping, hiking, and a Civil War-era fort, among other things.

You’ll definitely want to take a day or two to explore the core of the city. Take the T to Park Street Station for a Frisbee or Wiffle Ball game on Boston Common, the city’s famous downtown park. Crossing Charles Street from the Common, wander through the Public Gardens, Boston’s hub for floral amazement. From the Garden, a relaxing urban walk down Boylston Street brings you to Copley Square, home to 17th century Trinity Church, the John Hancock Tower, and Boston Public Library’s main branch. Guided tours of Trinity are free when you attend a service beforehand, or $5 otherwise. The Library may seem like an unlikely destination, but you’ll understand when you enter its cavernous and opulent foyer, ascend the grand staircase, and take in one of the many interesting shows and exhibits revolving through the Boston landmark.

You don’t want to miss the bountiful recreation in and around Boston. A sure bet is to bike, walk, or blade a portion of (or all, if you’re hard-core) the 17-mile Esplanade trail along the Charles River, which separates Boston from Cambridge. You can also rent small sailboats and kayaks on the Charles, a timeless summer tradition.

Getting a bit out of the city, the Minuteman Bikeway – which takes you from the Alewife T station on the Red Line through the birthplace of the American Revolution – is a wonderful day-long option. Hop off the trail in the quiet town of Lexington to see where the first shots of the Revolution were fired. Just south of Boston, Jamaica Plain is the greenest – again, in both senses of the word – neighborhood within the city limits. Here, you’ll find beautiful Jamaica Pond (which you can hike, jog, or sail), colorful houses, and colorful people walking dogs, enjoying a book in the park, or experiencing a jazz concert.

For the inevitable rainy day, consider visiting Harvard’s Museum of Natural History, which houses the world-renowned Glass Flowers Exhibit, an extraordinary turn-of-the-century collection of 3,000 hand-crafted replicas representing over 800 plant species. You also might consider visiting the New England Aquarium, which not only showcases some of the world’s wildest marine life, but has as its primary mission the understanding and conservation of oceans and their habitats.

To Eat

In Boston, “local” is the operative word. The locals love and prefer their food to be local, so travelers won’t have a hard time finding quality, tasty, and healthy non-fast food options. Here are a few of the local faves.

East Boston’s 303 Café is perhaps Boston’s hottest new spot in one of Boston’s hottest and fastest-growing neighborhoods. 303’s menu offers a variety of vegetarian and vegan options, but all the food – even the Bison Burger – is both delicious and regret-free. After dinner, get an organic and fair trade coffee to go and walk one block to Piers Park, which provides the city’s best panoramic skyline and harbor views, hands-down.

Ashmont Grill in Dorchester offers local and organic food, including herbs grown on the restaurant’s patio. You’ll feel good knowing that the grease used to make your French fries will be turned into biodiesel afterwards.

A number of the spots listed on the Certified Green Restaurant Guide are in and around Boston – no surprise there. For snacks or picnic items to go, visit one of the numerous Trader Joe’s locations in the Boston area, including downtown stores on Boylston and Beacon Streets. Visit one of the many downtown farmer’s markets – including the city’s oldest and largest, Haymarket (open on Fridays and Saturdays) – for fresh produce and vegetables and a healthy dose of Townie charm.

To Stay

You could easily fork over $200 a night – or more – for a hotel room in Boston.

Don’t.

463 Beacon Guest House – at the advertised rate of $75 a night year-round, you can’t go wrong with this downtown bed and breakfast. Centrally located in the historic Back Bay neighborhood, 463 offers nightly, weekly, and monthly stays in a number of room styles, some of which include kitchenettes. 463 certainly lives up to its clever slogan: “Boston’s Best-Slept Secret.” I told you it was clever.

Hostels – Sleep in New England like you would in Old England. For simple and affordable lodging, consider one of Boston’s several downtown hostels, where you’re sure to meet up with other road warriors like yourself. Share stories, swap Boston travel tips, and make plans. That’s what green travel is all about, right?

Monastery – For something a lot different, consider one of the guest rooms at St. John the Evangelist Monastery in Cambridge. Explore mystical Christian spirituality with the brothers on a self-directed or group program retreat for between $60 and $105 a night, or just lodge at SSJE while touring Boston (no price break). Robe not included.

There’s also always camping, of course. The Boston Harbor Islands offer camping, along with many of the outlying suburbs of Boston. (you don’t have to drive far outside the city to begin feeling a tad pastoral)

For those of you who would ignore my imploring against staying in hotels, at least choose one that is eco-friendly. These hotels earned recognition from Boston’ mayor last year for operating in a particularly green way: the Seaport Hotel; Jurys Boston Hotel; the Hyatt Harborside and the Lenox Hotel.

Easier to Be Green in Boston

Boston has tons to do when the weather’s nice, but this guide has to end. This is only a start. Bottom line: Visit Boston (remember: spring, summer, or fall). Travel eco-friendly; Boston makes it easy. Now that you know, there are no excuses, right?

One of Matador’s newest contributors, Steve Holt is a freelance writer living in Boston, eager to explore the world and tell its story.

Photo by BFXU

Sweden’s capital city was recently named the world’s most livable city by Reader’s Digest, and with good reason. Here, green options abound (think IKEA on a large scale). Although a cosmopolitan city, Stockholm and its locales are definitely inspired by the simplicity of the Swedish countryside and are committed to keeping their environment healthy. Buildings are green, public transportation is efficient and there is a general sense of well-being hanging in the air.

Practical Information

From Arlanda International Airport you can get to downtown Stockholm by train, bus or taxi. Arlanda Express is a 20 minute train into downtown, but if you’re on a budget, opt for the bus shuttle Arlanda Flygbuss. Travel to and from other Swedish cities is easy with Sweden’s national train system SJ. Buses are also a good form of cross-country Swedish travel and the big names in the business are Swebus and Safflebussen ; tickets can easily be purchased from the bus kiosks at Central Station.

Once in downtown Stockholm you will find that many of the city’s attractions are easily accessible by foot. If you want to explore a little farther outside of the downtown area the Tunnelbana is Stockholm’s underground metro, and the city also has an extensive network of buses, both of which are run by Stockholms Lokaltrafik.

Keep in mind that in Sweden, “youth” is defined as anyone 26 years or younger, allowing those of you in your mid-twenties to take advantage of reduced prices on tickets and beyond.

To get yourself oriented, download the helpful Stockholm Green Map before you go. The map is full of everything green, including parks, stores and restaurants.

Activities

Since last summer, getting around Stockholm has become easier and greener with the City Bike . During the spring, summer and early fall, you can take advantage of the great program which allows you to pick up and park one of the official bikes at over 80 different bicycle parking stations placed around town. A bike card costs 25 SEK (a little under $4) and gets you a full day’s worth of bike access. For those spending an extended time in the Swedish capital, consider a season pass.

During the summer, Stockholm locals spend a lot of time at their picturesque summer houses scattered around Stockholm’s Archipelago , or Skärgården in Swedish. Exploring the archipelago makes a great day trip, or even a multi-day excursion, and quickly gets you into Swedish nature. On the more than 24,000 islands, islets and rocks you can find everything from wildlife reserves to youth hostels. During the summer, the Stockholm Tourist Center offers a five day archipelago pass for only 300 SEK (about $47 at the current exchange rate) which allows you unlimited boat travel throughout the islands.

If you want to stick closer to the city but still want the ferry experience, take a trip to Djurgården, which is home to the Skansen , an open air museum with lots of animals and living history, and Gröna Lund Amusement Park.

While cruising the Stockholm streets, you may notice how trendy everyone looks. The locals are known for their hip clothes and cutting edge hair styles. Not to worry, you can get your own chic eco-friendly haircut at Friekosör.

Any season merits a visit to Kungsträdgården, central Stockholm’s main public place which can be described as a park, town square and a botanical garden all-in-one. The City of Stockholm sponsors various events throughout the year, such as concerts, art exhibitions, festivals and an ice skating rink in the winter, making it a great space to congregate with the locals and enjoy a little respite from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Arts & Culture

Stockholm has a large concentration of museums located within the central downtown area, making them easy to reach by walking or public transportation. On Skeppsholmen Island in central Stockholm lies Moderna Museet, which houses a wide selection of contemporary Scandinavian and international art. For classical works, visit the Museum of Fine Arts.

Another popular choice is the Ethnographic Museum. After a tour through world cultures, you can take an organic coffee break in the museum’s café.

Kulturhuset, centrally located at Sergels Torg, is one of Stockholm’s main cultural centers, offering everything from foreign film screenings to an International Writer’s Stage and boasting a roof covered in solar panels. The house café serves organic coffee and a daily organic special.

Green Eats

Rosendals Trädgård: The Rosendal Garden is a large garden committed to sharing organic cultivation methods with the general public. One of the greenhouses is home to the Garden Café, open from February to September, which uses only local, seasonal and organic products. Connected with the Café is also a bakery, where you can try out a variety of well known Swedish pastries all made with biodynamic flour and baked in a stone oven.

Chutney: A vegetarian restaurant in the hip neighborhood of Södermalm, Chutney offers up organic wines, and even champagne. The atmosphere is relaxed with world music in the background and ever-changing art shows. Just as good for a coffee break as for a full lunch.

Indoor Markets: Called Saluhallar or hallar in Swedish, Stockholm’s indoor markets are sometimes the best places to shop for fresh local food or drop in at a lively café. The big ones are Östermalms Saluhall , Söderhallarna, and Hötrogshallen.

Accommodation

Many of Stockholm’s accommodations are deemed eco-friendly, including the Nordic Light Hotel and Rica Hotels.

Staying in a hostel is also a great option for traveling green while on a budget and Stockholm has some of the funkiest. Red Boat Mälaren offers accommodation in just that: two red boats. Another boat option is the historic HI Hostel af Chapman & Skeppsholmen , which was built in 1888 and turned into a hostel in 1949.

During the summer months, camping is also a popular option, allowing you to get a little taste of the Swedish outdoors life but at the same time close to city attractions.

Anna Brones is a freelance writer with a love for travel. She has a BA in International Relations and French Studies and has lived in Sweden, France, Guadeloupe and the Pacific Northwest. Her work has been featured in Transitions Abroad, Pology, Green Mama, Matador Travel, and Traveler’s Tales A Woman’s World Again.

Photo by Ben Amstutz

“Keep Portland Weird” is a common bumper sticker that locals love to slap onto their cars and water bottles. But along with being a little weird and funky, Portland is also green and hip. It has some of the best public transportation in the country, lots of buildings with LEED certification and a population committed to biking to work. With so many green options, it can be hard to choose exactly how to spend your time in the environmentally conscious Northwest city, so here is a quick guide to some of the highlights.

Practical Information

If you are flying into Portland International Airport, you can easily take the Portland MAX light rail into downtown. For those arriving by train or bus, both the Amtrak and Greyhound stations are conveniently located in Fareless Square, an area covering most of downtown where all public transportation is free of charge. If your travels keep you in Portland for a few days and you want to explore outside of the downtown area, you can consider investing in a day, or even a week pass.

Activities

With green foothills and two mountains as a natural part of the skyline, it is no surprise that getting outdoors is an integral part of a genuine Portland experience, and even downtown offers an assortment of green space. In Northwest Portland you will find Forest Park , complete with miles upon miles of hiking and biking trails covering over 5,000 acres. Friends of Forest Park is the place to go for maps of all of the trails, and they even offer a natural history hiking series.

Only an hour away from Portland you will find Mount Hood, which is a playground for all seasons. In the winter you can take advantage of the Meadows Park & Ride Shuttle to get up to the mountain to ski or snowboard; your ticket even includes a lift ticket. In the summer, hike a part of the Pacific Crest Trail , which passes through the Mount Hood National Forest area.

Portland is notorious for being a biker’s heaven, and to truly get an in-depth view of the green city and its neighborhoods, what better way than with a bike tour? Portland Bicycle Company offers 3 hour tours that focus on sustainability, smart urban development, and community building. If you want to explore on your own, rent one of their bikes and get a bike map from the City of Portland Office of Transportation. As the city avidly supports those on two wheels, there are many streets designated as bike-friendly.

Arts & Culture

In Portland there’s always a festival going on, and many of them are committed to showcasing the best in local arts and culture. The winter months feature Reel Music Film Festival, Oregon Truffle Festival, and Portland Jazz Festival. For those who want to check out the local wining and dining scene, be sure to visit during the Holiday Ale Fest, Oregon Brewers Festival, Oregon Bounty, or the Bite of Oregon, which always showcases local and organic samplings. Travel Portland has a great website always up-to-date with the latest festivals.

A big draw in Portland is the Saturday Market, which features an eclectic assortment of local artists and an international food court. Don’t let the name fool you: it’s open on Sundays too. After a morning of perusing the goods at the market, make your way over to Powell’s City of Books. With over 68,000 feet of retail space and one of the best selections of used, rare, and out of print titles in the country, Powell’s classifies as a world-class independent bookstore.

Between April and December you can get a taste of all that local Oregon farmers and artisans have to offer at the Portland Farmer’s Market, held both downtown and at various neighborhood locations around the city.

Green Eats

Stumptown Coffee Roasters. Café culture is a part of everyday Portland life, and there is no better place to experience it than at this local roasting company’s many cafes scattered around the city. Most of their blends are organic and fair trade.

Blossoming Lotus. Committed to providing 100% vegan, organic and local food whenever possible, this place specializes in World Fusion Cuisine. The restaurant is conveniently located in Portland’s popular Pearl District and right on the Portland Street Car line.

Hot Lips Pizza . A Portland family-owned institution, this place serves up delicious pies that feature local, seasonal, and organic ingredients. Complete your meal with an on tap Hot Lips Soda, brewed one flavor at a time.

Roots Organic Brewing Company. Locally brewed all-organic beer. Need I say more?

Accommodation

Portland has some great green options for any budget, here are the top three:

Ace Hotel. Hip urban minimalist is the only way to describe this boutique hotel which is budget friendly and has rooms uniquely designed to represent the local Portland culture. Add a LEED certification and bikes for rent and you have prime green accommodation.

Heathman Hotel. One of the classiest and most well-known of the Portland hotels, it was also the first one to be recognized by the Energy Trust of Oregon for their commitment to the environment. They even offer a “Go Green” package, which gets a tree planted in your name.

Portland Hawthorne Hostel. Located in the funky Hawthorne district, staying here will put you close to a plethora of cafes, pubs and quirky boutiques. Thanks to a grant from the City of Portland, the hostel has an eco-roof, and they give discounts to travelers arriving by way of bike.

Anna Brones is a freelance writer with a love for travel. She has a BA in International Relations and French Studies and has lived in Sweden, France, Guadeloupe and the Pacific Northwest. Her work has been featured in Transitions Abroad, Pology, Green Mama, Matador Travel, and Traveler’s Tales A Woman’s World Again.

Photo by Sam Javanrouh

Ah, Florence, the city that inspires artists, writers, and your everyday girl. Over a million tourists from the US alone come and see this magical city each year. One of the most important things you can do when traveling is to tread lightly, and with so many of Italy’s priceless treasures succumbing to the ills of aging and pollution, it’s becoming ever more pressing that travelers go green. In addition to getting you to and around Florence, the following guide provides some of the best–and greenest–options for accomodations, tours, and restaurants.

Practical Information

Local airports are Amerigo Vespucci (domestic flights only) three miles northwest of the city center, and Galileo Galilei, 47 miles west of the city, near Pisa. Florence is a major railway and bus hub, so wherever you fly to, be it Milan, Rome or Pisa you will have to take public transportation to Florence.

Once you arrive, the city is remarkably easy to navigate. To walk end to end only takes 35 minutes, including stops for occasional espressos. Traffic is also restricted in the city center.

Art and Culture

In Florence, all roads lead to the Great Cathedral del Santa Maria Fiore, the religious and architectural heart of the city, so grab a free map in the bus or train station and start walking, and in about 15 minutes you will come to a grand piazza, dominated by the pink, white, and green cathedral.

You will also notice that there are other sights in or right behind the cathedral. The octagonal Baptistery of St. John , The Bell Tower (campanile), and the Cathedral Museum.

The two art galleries you must visit are the Galleria Academia and the Uffizi Gallery. The Uffizi houses the largest collection of Florentine art in the world and the Galleria, Michaelangelo’s David. Both are large tourist draws. It is advisable to book visits in advance.

Also not to be missed is the Ponte Vecchio, Florence’s oldest bridge, and the only one that wasn’t destroyed by the Germans in WWII. The largest green space in Florenece, the Boboli Gardens, is a great place to relax and people watch, as well as get some shade from the Mediterranean Sun.

Green Eats

The San Lorenzo Market is the biggest market in the city shop for local produce, meats and cheeses in the large, covered Marcato Centrale. You can also find handmade leather goods, paper products and more in the street stalls.

If you’re looking for a sit down place, local restaurants like Arcobaleno ( Italian for rainbow)

Or, for the authentic experience, why not try an agritourismo holiday, living and participating on a working farm? Visit www.goodtravelcompany.com for more details.

There are also a number of travel companies offering eco-friendly tours of Tuscany, so if you’re not a do-it-yourself type of person, these would be great for you:

Eco Touring Tuscany

The Good Travel Company,
and Context both practice responsible tourism.

Unless you live in Italy, you’re probably going to have to fly there. Don’t forget to calculate and offset you carbon emissions by going to websites like www.carbonneutral.com.

One of Matador’s newest contributors, Kelly Lalonde writes: “I get bored with normalcy, love pasta, love watching the city come alive on a long walk in the morning.”

Photo by Mario de Leo

At first glance, the words “green” and “Mexico City” don’t seem compatible. Mexico’s capital is one of the most congested and polluted cities in the world, but don’t let that discourage you from enjoying these green sites south of the border.

City officials have expressed their commitment to greening the capital and creating opportunities for ecotourism. You don’t have to wait until all of their plans are realized, though. Check out our Green Guide to Mexico City and enjoy some of the best outdoor and indoor recreational, cultural, and culinary treasures of this vast city.

Practical Information:

If you’re flying into Mexico City’s Benito Juarez International Airport, you can choose a taxi service or the Metro to reach the city center, which is about 15 minutes away. For more information about navigating the airport, please visit the Top 10 Tips for Navigating Mexico City’s Benito Juarez International Airport.

Activities

Every Sunday, Mexico City converts one of its main avenues, Paseo de la Reforma, into a pedestrian, cyclist, and skaters-only thoroughfare, thanks to the progressive vision of Mayor Marcelo Ebrard Casaubon, who is green conscious. Beyond just shutting down the avenue to vehicles, the city offers free bike rentals and staffs hydration stations, mechanics’ kiosks, and even provides medical service along the route.

One of Mexico City’s greatest green treasures, the Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest) is the capital city’s answer to New York’s Central Park. In addition to a botanical garden, the Bosque boasts an expansive green space dotted by waterways, monuments, sculpture, and statuary, and ample recreation areas. Along the park’s edge you can find the Museo de Arte Moderno (Museum of Modern Art), the Museo de Historia Natural (Natural History Museum), and the Museo Nacional de Antropologia (National Anthropology Museum), all of which are easily reached by Metro.

Mexico City has three ecological reserves: Xochimilco, San Nicolas Totolapan, and Desierto de los Leones, each with its own unique flora and fauna. Each reserve is a great day trip offering a variety of recreational activities. At Desierto de los Leones you might enjoy bird watching, as the reserve is a magnet for migratory birds. San Nicolas offers guided walking tours, and Xochimilco offers bike rentals, among other services and activities.

Mexico City’s Turibus may seem hopelessly touristy and contrary to the spirit of independent and off-the-beaten path travel, but it not only offers a tremendous value for your traveling dollar, sporting you all over the city with unlimited hop-on/hop-off privileges when you purchase a day pass, but it also gets you into some of the city’s greenest areas. By joining other visitors on this bus tour, you’re cutting down on individual car/taxi emissions, too.

Within the center of the city, you can rent a Segway, which has a zero emissions rating. At present, the Segway office in Reforma offers two tours (2-3 hours each) for $50 USD.

Arts and Culture

In addition to the museums mentioned above, the Palacio de Bellas Artes is an obligatory stop for arts lovers, if for no other reason than to enjoy the beauty of the building itself. The Frida Kahlo Museum, also known as the Casa Azul, is located in the artist’s home in the neighborhood of Coyoacan. Small and intimate, this museum gives Kahlo aficionados a true sense of the place where many of her paintings were created. To find out what’ other activities will be going on in the city during your visit, check the Secretary of Tourism’s website, which maintains a calendar of current and upcoming events.

Eats

Mercados: While Mexico City is indisputably cosmopolitan, it retains long-cherished traditions, among them maintaining the variety of fruit and vegetable markets tucked into neighborhoods around the vast city. At any of these mercados you can buy your own fruit and vegetables or enjoy a reasonably priced meal at any of the food stalls in the market.

Restaurants and Bars: Eating local is easy in Mexico City, as many staples of the Mexican kitchen are brought in daily from nearby fields just outside the city center. One favorite where the menu is constructed entirely around in-season foods is OW 9. Another green option for dinner and drinks can be found at the condesa df hotel. The lighting is low, the dining area is an interior patio with a retractable ceiling that opens to a view of the sky, and diners are surrounded by plants, which create a sense of privacy and intimacy at every table. Enjoy drinks and light snacks on the rooftop bar, which has comfortable lounges, blankets, heat lamps, and an unbeatable view.

Where to Stay

Mexico City has its work cut out for it with respect to green lodging, though one notable exception is The Red Treehouse. Wherever you stay, be a green guest—let the housekeeping staff know you don’t need sheets or towels changed, bring your own toiletries, and ensure that lights and appliances are turned off when you leave the room.

Learn More: In June, 2008, Mexico City will be launching a print and online version of Las Paginas Verdes, The Green Pages—a guide to the city’s sustainable businesses. Visit www.laspaginasverdes.com.

Photo by Imaxandco

Fiji is an infectiously happy place, as most Polynesian islands are. This nation, however, boasts particularly boisterous and friendly locals and offers to-die-for fishing, diving, and surfing opportunities — all in a tropical paradise setting. The key word in this land — the first Fijian word you will learn, and maybe the only one you will remember — is “bula” (hello). This word pretty much embodies the Fijian way. You will be welcomed with open arms and often smiled at (so smile back!).

Viti Levu

This island, the largest in the Fijian island chain, is the focus for first-time travelers to Fiji. If you have more time or cash, you can get a taste of the outer-island delights, but Viti Levu — its southern coast in particular — offers just about all you could wish for in terms of outdoor adventure. New arrivals must begin their journey in Nadi (pronounced NAN-dee), on the western coast, then continue along the southern coast to the eastern city of Suva, where domestic ferries and planes depart to outer-islands like Vanua Levu, Taveuni, and the Lau Group.

The Coral Coast

This southern stretch of Viti Levu is where the avid beach-goers, fishermen, surfers, and divers will spend most of their time. Take your time driving along Queens Highway and, in a mere three hours, watch the landscape transform right before your eyes — from dry land around Nadi, to plantations, to a long sandy beach in Natadola, to the spectacular Sigatoka sand dunes, to the tropical rainforests near Korolevu, and finally to the blue ocean stretching far out to the horizon. The Coral Coast ends fittingly in Pacific Harbor, where you can begin another grand adventure by boat, or you can continue along the highway to Suva. If you’re driving, it’s easy to get lost in the beauty of the Coral Coast, but don’t forget to drive on the left side of the road!

Politics

Fiji has experienced two periods of non-violent political unrest, most recently in December 2006. The recent coup, spurred by long-standing disagreements between the government and the military, should not dissuade travelers from coming to Fiji, as the situation poses no threat to tourists. However, with the noticeable division between the ethnic Fijians and the growing Indian population, national unification proves difficult. Therefore, awareness of the most current political situation is still necessary.

ACTIVITIES

NOTE: These activities pretty much require that you bring your own gear. If you’re serious about these sports, don’t expect locals or the resorts to have what you are looking for. If you need gear, you will have the best luck finding it in Nadi town.

Surfing

Viti Levu is a hop, skip, or jump from some of the best surf breaks in the world. Near Nadi, you can find access to to some epic waves around Tavarua and Namotu, namely Wilkes Passage, Lighthouse, Namotu Lefts, Cloudbreak, Restaurants, and Desperations. Traveling east, you can surf at the beach break along Sigatoka. From atop its sand dunes, there are only two fashionable ways down: sand surf or roll. On small or windy days here, you will still have lots of fun body surfing. If you can afford it, there is decent surf on the outer reefs of Natadola or exclusively for Hideaway resorters. Finally, if you’re able to acquire a boat from Pacific Harbor to get you there, don’t miss your chance to surf the gnarly left at Frigate’s Passage.

Keep in mind that if you are not staying at certain resorts/islands, surf spots like Cloudbreak, Namotu, Hideaway, and Frigate’s are remote, exclusive, or only open to the public one or two times a week. Be sure to find out what day you can hit it!

Hiking

There are several beautiful hikes in the tropical rainforests around Korotogo and Korolevu. Waterfalls, steep climbs, streams, greenery — you name it, this lush part of the island has it. Many of the resorts in the area provide guides for a nominal fee. Guides are advisable, as you will learn more about the native plants and local legends.

Fishing & Diving

The reef at Frigate’s Passage has some of the most lively underwater life I have ever laid eyes on. Even on a cloudy day you are sure to see a Spanish mackerel or barracuda swimming by within arm’s reach. Fish, troll, snorkel, dive, swim — just get in the water and take in the tropical wonder that thrives beneath you. It was here that I got my first taste of spear fishing and free/skin diving. I was strangely excited and amazed when sharks pecked away at the coral trout we caught that dangled from the end of our buoy line. I didn’t quite realize how good I had it at Frigate’s until I returned home to Hawaii, where fishing is now only decent.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Most of the accommodations along the coast offer a variety of room options and usually include meals as part of a package price. While most resorts have hot water, the remote ones might not, so it’s always better to ask. Budget for about $50-100 (U.S.) per day for all expenses, including food and excursions.

Rendezvous Resort

Located outside of Nadi and owned by a Fijian-Japanese couple, this resort offers camping, dorms, and private/shared rooms with meals included. It also provides a reasonably priced boat trip to Namotu and Tavarua to surf, fish, or dive. Be sure to negotiate the time spent doing what you wish and going where you want; there are added fees if you go farther than Wilkes or return later than 2 pm.

The Beach House

Due to the filming of Love Islandb on its premises, the Beach House experienced a funky and modern face lift last year. Right off the highway in Korolevu, this pleasant resort is set among palm trees and right on the beach. Options here include camping, male and female dorms, and private rooms with/without bath. There’s a lively vibe to the place, as well as good, reasonably-priced food. You can also, like I did, catch trevally along the beach and cook it up in their communal kitchen. You are sure to chat it up with fellow travelers while you’re relaxing by the pool or in the hammocks or while you’re taking part in one of the many activity offerings.

Batiluva Resort

If it’s Frigate’s you want by day and relaxation you need by night, then Batiluva is the place to stay. After enduring a cold and wet 45-minute boat ride from Pacific Harbor to Yanuca Island, you become the get-away. There’s no easy way to distinguish you from it. You’ll sleep comfortably under mosquito nets in one of the four shared quads or two private rooms. Wake up to the sound of the ocean lapping on the private beach. Then, prepare yourself for a full day at Frigate’s Pass (one-way, it takes another wet 45 minutes by boat from the resort) doing what you want, when you want, until you tell the captain it’s time to head back and take a cold shower (sorry, there’s no hot water shower, ladies!). Meals and transportation to/from Frigate’s are included, but bring your own fishing gear with you (and maybe even leave a good lure behind for the captain, as his lures are old and out-dated). Take an afternoon trip to visit the nearby village to drink kava with the chief and play soccer or make sand castles with the kids.

Matador’s expert on Hawaii, Brenda Yun writes: I’m a surfer girl, creative writing/English teacher who can’t seem to get enough out of life abroad. Despite my annual travels, my six-year old pug keeps me grounded.

Photo by Paul Moody

As we make efforts to minimize our carbon footprint, the Traveler’s Notebook presents the greenest road trips in North America, trips that offer maximum activity options with a minimum amount of driving. As opposed to interstates, which typically bypass local communities (depriving them of the economic support they’d otherwise receive from travelers), the roads you’ll travel here traverse some of the best towns and terrain you’ll find anywhere.

Be it outdoor adventure or world-class restaurants and shopping, Vermont caters to every interest. This 220-mile loop takes you to some of the state’s deservedly popular attractions while letting you discover your own.

As Vermont’s biggest city, Burlington is more than just a convenient starting point. Before you head out, make sure to sample the shop wares and eatery menus on pedestrian-friendly Church Street. If you find you’ve enjoyed your dining experience a little too much, work up a sweat on the scenic seven-mile bike path that runs north through several recreational parks along the Lake Champlain shore.

When you’re ready to depart, follow Route 7 south out of town. Though congested at first, it soon narrows into a pleasant byway, with good views out to the lake and Adirondack Mountains beyond.

The Shelburne Museum, just seven miles south of Burlington, should be your first stop. You’ll find everything from impressionist paintings to a restored 200-foot steamboat at this indoor/outdoor depository of American folk art and artifacts.

In the fall, Shelburne Orchards offers apple picking (including organic apples) near the shores of Lake Champlain. Farther south, Middlebury is worth a look. Beer connoisseurs should check out the tour of Otter Creek Brewery.

Swing east onto Route 4 in Rutland and venture into the heart of the Green Mountains. If winter snows are falling, spending a couple days around Killington—arguably the Northeast’s best skiing—is definitely recommended. World class hiking and mountain biking opportunities can also be found in the area, most notably where the Appalachian and Long Trails intersect at the Inn at Long Trail near Sherburne Pass.

After Sherburne Pass, Route 4 leads back down to lower elevations and the village of Woodstock. From here, turn onto the little-traveled Route 12 and wind your way north. In mid-November, it’s worth stopping in Northfield to check out Cabot Hosiery Mill’s‘ annual sock sale. It sounds about as riveting as watching the Vermont cows graze, but it’s truly a great way to learn about and support the local economy. The mill’s very existence is rather fascinating, considering it’s one of only a few such American operations still resisting the move overseas.

Another ten miles on 12 will bring you to Montpelier. With about 8,000 residents, it’s the country’s smallest capital, and the only one without a McDonald’s. Instead, there are several choice dining options just past the attractive capitol building on State Street.

Route 2 takes you to Waterbury, where you can enjoy a pint at the Alchemist Pub and Brewery. From here, make your way north along Route 100. You’ll pass the Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory, a Cabot Creamery, and the Cold Hollow Cider Mill, all fun places for a quick stop. The latter two offer tasty free samples.

Smuggler’s Notch, a pass on the eastern slope of Mt. Mansfield–Vermont’s hightest peak–is an exceptional drive (although closed in winter) with numerous recreation activities including hiking, canoing, fishing, and mountain biking, and snow-sports and ice-climbing in wintertime. To get there, follow Route 108 as it weaves its way among sharp cliffs and fallen boulders.

The mountain town of Jeffersonville lies at the end of your descent from the pass, from which it’s a an easy jaunt back to Burlington via Route 15.

Notes

Unfortunately there isn’t much in the way of alternative transportation for this loop. It might be possible to cover some segments by Greyhound bus, but service would likely be costly and sparse. For those with mighty legs and a sense of adventure, cycling is an option. Keep in mind that traffic throughout the state can be heavy in autumn, when travelers from around the globe flock to New England to watch the leaves turn crimson.

Bed and breakfasts are scattered liberally along the route. There are also numerous state parks for camping. Visit www.campvermont.com or www.vtstateparks.com for comprehensive listings.

Interested in contributing a Green Guide to the Traveler’s Notebook? Check Matador’s Bounty Board for information on how to contribute.

Photo by Frank

A city may not be the first place you think of when you think “green,” but New York City is one of the greenest places in the US. Sure, there’s Central Park and its impressive outer-borough cousins, Brooklyn’s Prospect Park and Staten Island’s Narrows Botanical Gardens, but there are plenty of less familiar green sites that will get you off the beaten path and show you a New York you probably didn’t know existed. Welcome to the big green apple!

Practical Information:

If you’re flying into LaGuardia, JFK, or Newark, take the AirTrain from your terminal to the nearest subway/train station. Faster and cheaper than a taxi, the AirTrain is the newest piece of NYC’s well-developed mass transit system. If you plan to move around the city by subway, buy an unlimited Metrocard, which is sold by the day, week, or month and is far less expensive than the $2 per ride fare. While you’re in the subway station, pick up a free map at any fare booth.

Get Outdoors:

It may be called the concrete jungle, but New York City has some amazing green spaces too, including:

The Science Barge: Run by the New York Sun Works Center for Sustainable Engineering, The Science Barge is part school-on-a-ship, part urban farm. Anchored on the city’s West Side Hudson River, the barge is powered by solar, wind, and biofuels, producing foods that generate no carbon emissions, no net water consumption, and no waste stream. During warmer months, you can visit the barge for free!

Hudson River Park: New Yorkers’ waterside playground, the Hudson River Park runs almost the entire length of Manhattan’s West Side, offering recreational opportunities for enthusiasts of rollerblading, biking, kayaking, climbing, skateboarding, fishing, and more… even trapeze! During the summer, free kayaking is a major attraction for beginners to experts, with the former offered lessons and the latter offered kayak polo games and trips north on the Hudson.

Union Square Greenmarket: Rub shoulders with famous chefs without having to beg for a reservation. The Union Square Greenmarket, one of the city’s many outdoor markets, is the best of the best.

Walking Tours: Get off the double-decker bus and get your feet on the pavement! NYC has some of the world’s very best walking tours, with a tour for every interest. There’s the food tour, the ghost tour, and tours for nearly every immigrant group that passed through Ellis Island’s portals. Some of the best tours are offered by the Lower East Side Tenement Museum. Of course, if you don’t want to hire a guide, give yourself a tour—check out Bruce Kayton’s book, Radical Walking Tours of New York City.

Go Inside:

Open House New York: Green isn’t just about the physical environment, it’s about being conscious of the environments we build and in which we live, work, and play. OHNY’s best event is its annual weekend city-wide “Open House,” but it also has programs throughout the year that give people access to places that are normally beyond the public’s access and view.

Go Eat:

The Green Table: Nestled in Chelsea Market, The Green Table is a tiny organic restaurant whose menu changes daily, built around seasonal organic ingredients and organic wine and beer.

The New Leaf Café: The food is great, the setting is amazing (nestled in Fort Tryon Park, at the northernmost tip of Manhattan, overlooking the Hudson River to the west, a great place to wander after visiting the Met’s Cloisters, also located in the park), and the best thing of all is that net proceeds from the café go right back to the park’s restoration and maintenance.

GOBO: food for the five senses: Organic, vegetarian, small plates, good for sampling and sharing.

Just Go:

You know all about the subway, but consider these other mass transit options, too: water taxi (which also offers an Audubon tour), Roosevelt Island Tramway, pedicabs, or your own bike.

Accommodations:

NYC is still getting green with its lodging, but the city’s first LEED certified hotels are under construction, slated to open in 2008 and 2009. For those who can’t wait or whose budget is unlikely to accommodate such eco-luxe lodging, try home-swapping or inexpensive rentals on craigslist. A best bet is the Sugar Hill Harlem Inn.

One of Matador’s regular contributors, Julie Schwietert Collazo is a writer, editor, researcher, and translator who lives in New York, Mexico City, and San Juan. She has a BA in English and Women’s Studies, a Masters of Social Work, and is working on a PhD in Literature at the Centro de Estudios Avanzados de Puerto Rico y el Caribe.

Interested in contributing a Green Guide to the Traveler’s Notebook? Check Matador’s Bounty Board for information on how to contribute.

Photo by Joseph Brody

As we all make efforts to minimize our carbon footprint, the Traveler’s Notebook presents the first of our series on the greenest road trips in North America: Nova Scotia. These trips offer maximum activity options with a minimum amount of driving. And as opposed to interstates, which usually avoid local communities (and thus deprive them of the economic support they’d otherwise receive from travelers), the roads you’ll travel here traverse some of the best towns and terrain you’ll find anywhere.

Nova Scotia is “Canada’s ocean playground” – a land of salty old towns, friendly locals, and heartbreaking coastal scenery. This short loop begins and ends in Halifax.

Heading west out of Halifax, avoid the divided Highway103, and opt instead for the winding coastal Highway 3.

Your first stop has got to be the wave-lashed, glacier-scarred, lobster fishing village of Peggy’s Cove. Nova Scotians love to complain about how touristy this tiny community has become, but the reality is that development in the area has been strictly controlled. The only amenity for tourists is a restaurant/gift shop combo specializing in seafood chowder and bright yellow, plastic Sou’Westers. Sunny summer afternoons will see some tour buses coming and going, but on a foggy morning or evening you’ll have the place to yourself.

Just west of the village you’ll find the haunting, somber memorial to Swissair Flight 111, which crashed into the bay in 1998 killing everyone on board.

Stop in Mahone Bay for herb and cheese bread (or any other baked goodie that catches your eye) at the Lahave Bakery, which also doubles as a hostel in peak season.

Lunenburg is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, home port of the legendary fishing schooner Bluenose (as seen on the Canadian 10-cent coin), and a small town packed with postcard views and local history. It also attracts more than its fair share of artsy types and old hippies: look for folk art galleries and veggie-friendly cafes scattered between the seafood restaurants and tiny B&Bs.

From Lunenburg, cut inland via Bridgewater to Kejimkujik National Park. Keji is a canoeist’s paradise in the heart of Nova Scotia’s largely uninhabited interior, and offers a mixture of drive-in and backcountry sites, accessible by foot, canoe (rentals available), cross-country ski, or snowshoe.

Follow Highway 8 north from Keji until you emerge at Annapolis Royal, founded by the French in 1605 and one of the oldest European settlements in North America. There are some beautiful heritage buildings, gardens, crafty shops, and the usual Victorian B&Bs, but the area’s economic troubles, and its relative isolation from the tourist beaten path, mean that none of it feels trite or overdone – this really is a sleepy old colonial town, not just a modern re-enactment.

Detour west along the Annapolis Basin to Bear River, a village known for its eclectic community of artists, and for its riverside houses built on stilts to withstand the famous Fundy tides, the highest in the world. Browse the studios, galleries and craft shops, wander the riverside paths, and check out the Bear River First Nations Community Heritage and Cultural Centre, an interpretive centre showcasing the traditional Mi’kmaq way of life.

Heading east again, stick to Highway 1 as it shadows less-interesting Highway 101. In Kingston, get off the highway entirely and ask a local for directions to the village of Morden, also known as French Cross, on the Bay of Fundy. Here you’ll find a powerfully bleak stretch of coastline and a lonely monument to the Acadians who were forcibly expelled from the region by the British in 1755 – eventually becoming the Cajuns of Louisiana and the Gulf Coast.

Back on the 1, head east to Kentville and then north to Cape Split for a classic day hike. After you’ve had your fill of the view, Highway 1 will take you back east and south to Halifax.

Practical Notes:

Public transport options are few and far between. Salty Bear Adventure Travel offers a variety of hop-on/hop-off options, and Acadian Lines serves the major centers. Hitching is still relatively common in rural Nova Scotia, and biking is a great option as well if you don’t mind a lot of hills.

Camping Nova Scotia lists camping options around the province.

This loop could be extended by following Highway 3 west from Lunenburg all the way to Yarmouth, on the western tip of the peninsula, where it connects to Highway 1. Tourism Nova Scotia offers further detail about both routes – check out The Lighthouse Route (south shore) and The Evangeline Trail (Fundy shore).

For more on Halifax, see my Matador Guide.

And finally, keep your eyes peeled for any village, historical site, or quirky roadside attraction that catches your eye as you go. There is far, far more to see than I have been able to cover here.

Ciad mille failte!

Eva Holland is a historical researcher and freelance writer living in Ottawa, Canada. She blogs about travel for World Hum and Vagablogging, and her writing has appeared in The Ottawa Citizen, The Edmonton Journal, and Matador Travel.

Do you have a great itinerary we should include in North American’s Greenest Road Trips? Click here to contribute.

Canada’s national capital doesn’t get the travel attention that its flashier cousins, Toronto and Montreal, receive. But Ottawa, a mid-sized city on the border between Ontario and Quebec, has a lot more to offer visitors than just the chance to rub elbows with politicians and bureaucrats. In Ottawa you can see Canadian tax dollars at work–funding a brace of high-quality museums, galleries and festivals, public transit to reach them all, and possibly the best network of designated cycle paths and bike lanes on the continent. The capital is also, thanks to its small size and relatively isolated location, a lot closer to nature than most major cities. Ever loaded your snowshoes onto a city bus, hopped off outside a nature preserve, and headed off-trail for the afternoon? No? Welcome to Ottawa, the city where your urban-outdoor travel dreams can come true.

PRACTICAL INFO

Ottawa’s international airport has direct flights to a few major US cities as well as to London – otherwise, expect to connect through Toronto or Montreal. Amtrak connects with the Canadian rail network (Via Rail) in Toronto and Montreal as well, so you can change to an Ottawa-bound train in either city. The nearest border crossings are at Brockville and Cornwall, roughly an hour west and east of town, respectively.

GET OUTDOORS

The outdoorsy type is faced with an embarrassment of riches in Ottawa, all year round. The main hubs of activity are Gatineau Park, The Greenbelt, the Ottawa River and the Rideau Canal.

Gatineau Park is a 361-square kilometer preservation area, managed by the NCC and hovering on the edges of Gatineau, Ottawa’s conjoined-twin city on the Quebec side of the river. In summer it’s home to hiking, mountain biking and camping (not to mention some major National Historic Sites, a handful of amazing lookouts, and some unique, fragile flora and geology as well), but it’s in winter that it really shows off, with 10km of maintained winter hiking trails, 20km of snowshoeing trails, and 200km of groomed cross-country skiing trails available for public use. There are also winter camping sites and a selection of winterized cabins and yurts for rent within the park. Equipment rentals are available at the visitors centre; the ski trails will cost you (about ten bucks for a day), but the snowshoeing and hiking trails are free. There’s also a private downhill skiing facility, Camp Fortune, located within the park.

The Greenbelt is a 20,000 hectare preserved green space located in what used to be the western edge of the city, though now the suburbs extend well beyond it. It’s either a stroke of eco-genius or an urban planning nightmare, depending on who you ask, but either way it offers hiking, cycling, snowshoeing, toboganning, and cross-country skiing, all free to the public and all within the boundaries of the city. There’s also camping within the park at the Ottawa Municipal Campground (May to October only).

The Ottawa River and the Rideau Canal are both lined on either bank by designated bike paths (rollerbladers, joggers, and pedestrians also welcome), connecting to a larger network of pathways and reserved bike lanes throughout the city. Most of the big sights – Parliament Buildings, the Supreme Court, the National Gallery, and so on – are visible from the river and the north end of the canal, and a ride along either is the perfect way to see the city. Bikes can be rented in summer at RentABike, at the intersection of Rideau Street and Colonel By (where the canal meets the river), and at the Dows Lake Pavilion, on the southern end of the canal.

As for getting out on the water, the Dows Lake Pavilion offers canoe and paddleboat rentals in summer for use on the canal. The Ottawa River is a trickier proposition since there’s been substantial hydro-electric development along almost its entire length, including a major dam within sight of the Parliament Buildings. But if you have the means to get right out of town (read: a car) there is some serious whitewater action to be had on the river about an hour west of the city. Wilderness Tours has been a major player in keeping this last stretch of “unharnessed” water preserved, and they offer rafting, kayaking, and other adventure fare like bungee jumping.

And of course, if you can make it to Ottawa in January or February, no visit is complete without a skate on the frozen Rideau Canal, the world’s longest skating rink and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Skate rentals are available at NCC shacks at regular intervals along the canal’s 7km length. Ottawa’s Winterlude festival takes place on the first three weekends in February, with ice sculpting, skating shows, concerts and more.

ARTS AND CULTURE

Art-lovers should start at the National Gallery of Canada, which features big-name traveling exhibitions as well as a permanent collection of Canadian and Aboriginal artwork. The gallery is located above the river, just behind Parliament hill; nearby, below the Chateau Laurier Hotel, is the Canadian Museum of Contemporary Photography (temporarily closed for construction at the time of writing). Just across the bridge in Gatineau is the Canadian Museum of Civilization, a must-see if you’re at all interested in Aboriginal culture and history. The museum also has an IMAX movie theater and features traveling exhibits, usually on major archaeological finds from other cultures. The National Arts Centre, at the intersection of Elgin and Wellington Streets, across from the Chateau Laurier, is home to an orchestra, a variety of theatre productions in English and French, concerts, dance, and more. Just west of downtown, overlooking the river, is the recently-opened Canadian War Museum, a wonderfully thoughtful look at just over one hundred years of Canadian military history. The museum manages to combine respect for Canada’s veterans with a serious consideration of war and its impact on servicemen and civilians alike; there is a lot more than dusty old medals to see here. A little further west again, on Wellington Street, you’ll find the Great Canadian Theatre Company (GCTC) which has just moved into a spankin’ new space in the bottom of a high-rise of “luxury eco-condos” – whatever that means.

Summer means outdoor festivals, and lots of them. July 1 is Canada Day, when the city loosens its collective necktie and throws a red-and-white maple leaf street party in the downtown core. The next three weeks of July belong to Bluesfest – believe it or not, the second-largest blues festival in North America, after Chicago. Headliners tend to come from a range of musical backgrounds (this past summer I saw Bob Dylan, The White Stripes, Van Morrison, George Clinton and Manu Chao within days of each other) while the smaller stages feature more authentic blues acts from around the world. In August the Ottawa Folk Festival and the Ottawa Jazz Festival hit town – the jazz fest has in recent years attracted names like Branford and Wynton Marsalis, Sonny Rollins, and Diana Krall.

ABORIGINAL OTTAWA

Famed explorer Samuel de Champlain was one of the first Europeans to lay eyes on the stretch of river that now runs through the nation’s capital – he called it la grande riviere des algoumequins, after the Algonquin people who lived on its shores and traveled up and down its length. Today, Aboriginal Experiences offers a taste of that heritage, with a variety of packages aimed at showcasing native storytelling, crafts, food, song and dance. The events take place from June to September on Victoria Island, easily accessible from the Portage Bridge just west of downtown.

GREEN EATS

Local coffee chain Bridgehead is the place to go for fair-trade lattes, free wi-fi, fresh soups and sandwiches (try the spicy thai tofu!), and a good range of herbal and caffeinated loose-leaf teas. There are locations scattered around the city, including one at Bank and Albert near the Parliament buildings, one near the GCTC on Wellington (west of downtown) and one on Elgin Street, south of the National War Monument and not far from the canal.

For self-serve, pay-by-weight vegetarian buffets, try The Table (across from the GCTC on Wellington) or The Green Door (on Main Street, near the Pretoria Bridge over the canal). Both serve a mix of Asian fusion and veggie takes on old comfort food favorites like lasagna or ratatouille – think Moosewood Cookbook. They make an effort to use local and/or organic produce, and have at least some vegan options every day.

The Byward Market isn’t just for bar-hoppers and buskers – there really is a market here too, though it’s more touristy than your average farmer’s market. For less maple candy and more fresh produce, try the Parkdale Market, on Parkdale near Wellington (again, near the GCTC just west of downtown), open every day of the week from May to November. Herb and Spice is a local grocery chain emphasizing organic options and locally-produced foods – not just fresh produce but prepared meals from local caterers, baked goods from small-scale bakeries, and so on. There’s a location downtown on Bank near Somerset, and another – you guessed it – on Wellington near the GCTC.

ACCOMMODATION

Ottawa’s hotel scene is primarily geared towards the government conference/convention scene, but that does mean some serious deals are sometimes available on weekends. There are two hostels right in the heart of downtown, the Ottawa Backpackers Inn and the Ottawa Jail Hostel, eerily located in the old Carleton County Jail, and there are also a number of Couchsurfing hosts based in the city. (I know of at least one who’d be happy to have you!)

TRANSPORTATION

The city’s public transit – much as Ottawans love to complain about it – is really pretty good. There is one light rail link in addition to a large fleet of buses. Ottawa’s OCTranspo connects with Gatineau’s STO at the Rideau Centre, in the heart of downtown. There are regular, fast connections to the airport and the train station. Also, most Ottawa city buses are now outfitted for “rack and roll”, meaning that you can cycle around downtown and then load your bike onto the front of the bus and ride out to the Greenbelt for some more pedaling.

Paia is known as “the biggest little town on Maui,” and with good reason. The small population of 2500 has taken this town a long way. The scenic business district, bordered on one side by the ocean and on the other by the majestic slopes of Haleakala, offers everything you could ever need as a visitor… and it does so with character. What used to be a flourishing sugar cane plantation town has evolved into an array of locally owned, green minded shops, restaurants and businesses — all of which are housed in the old plantation style wooden buildings of the sugar mill era. The buildings have been restored and painted in vibrant new colors, adding bright life to the already pleasant atmosphere. And when the only market in town is a health food store (Mana Foods), you know you’ve got a good thing going. The variety and quality of restaurants is outstanding, and is complimented well by tasteful shops, boutiques and galleries. You might find that friendly service and smiling people are quite common around here — the laid back locals seem to have found peace with the lifestyle they’ve created. Along with the stellar eats and eclectic shopping, there’s a plethora of activities to keep you moving. Bike down thirty-something miles from the crater of Haleakala, windsurf at nearby Ho’okipa, then surf the very same wave, and finally lounge on the white sand at Baldwin Beach Park, all in a day’s time. Everything considered, this place is a virtual blueprint for sustainable living, and it happens to double as one of those rare destinations that might just make you “lose” your plane ticket home.

Practical Info

The heart of Paia is the intersection of the Hana Highway (HWY 36) and Baldwin Avenue. From there, the Hana Hwy runs north 4 miles to Kahului and the airport, and south all the way to Hana and beyond, while Baldwin Ave runs up the slopes of Haleakala a few miles to the town of Makawao. If you’re heading south to Hana, be sure and fill up on gas here — there are no more stations until you actually reach Hana. There’s a Bank of Hawaii with a 24 hr ATM on Baldwin, and the Paia Post Office sits at the top end of Baldwin (toward Makawao). Brighten someone’s day, send a postcard! If you would rather shoot off a few emails 21st century style, you’ll find cheap rates at Livewire Cafe on Hana Hwy.

GREEN EATS

Mana Foods (8:30 AM-8:30 PM/ 7 days a week)

The shelves are well stocked at this healthy minded market with all the essentials and then some. Excellent produce selection. There is also a deli in the back with tasty sandwiches, finger foods, and a good salad bar. Super friendly staff and an extensive info board help Mana double as the vortex for all green living on Maui. Good place to network and get ideas. The store recently made the switch to corn based packaging. Oh, and we have to mention the vegan ice cream machine! Located on Baldwin.

Flatbread (Daily 11AM-11PM)

This upbeat and very hip restaurant bar calls itself the “all natural pizza company” for a reason. Ninety percent of what they use is organic, and the large majority of that is locally sourced on Maui. A wood fired oven in the heart of the restaurant adds authenticity while putting out a superb pizza. Great atmosphere at the bar with locally famous drink specials like the Grapefruit Honey Bourbon and Pomegranate Mojito. Hana Hwy at the base of Baldwin.

Fresh Mint (M-Su 5pm-9pm)

Don’t judge this place by its looks — the flavors will more than make up for any lack of ambiance. With more than forty vegan options of homestyle vietnamese cuisine, the Mint is hard to beat come dinner time. The only real question is which dish to order. The sweet and sour tofu ($9) is as good as it gets, and the pad thai ($7) isn’t far behind. Innovative “mock-meat” dishes make this a great choice for those transitioning to the veg lifestyle or just looking to try something new. All things considered, this might be one of the best oriental meals you ever enjoy. Family owned and operated. Does not serve alcohol. At the top end of Baldwin across from the Post Office.

Cafe Mambo (Daily 8AM-9PM) (808) 579-8021

Halfway up Baldwin, across from the Bank of Hawaii, you’ll find this upbeat, stylish restaurant serving up some tasty international cuisine. The Fajitas ($12) are delicious and can be made with organic Maui tofu. Menu also includes various tapas style plates, sandwiches, burgers, and salads, which are made with “some” local, organic produce. Excellent deals at happy hour (4-6pm weekdays) when the organic beers and wines are served up alongside fajitas and burgers, all for a good penny. Did I mention the tofu fajitas? Breakfast menu offers good veg options, including the Fresh Fruit Cup w/ lilikoi sauce ($4). Picnics available as well.

Milagros (M-Su 8AM-10PM)

With more than two dozen of the worlds finest tequilas, this Margarita bar and Mexican restaurant will have you feeling rosy in no time. The DaKine House Special, made to order with your choice of tequila, triple sec, and fresh squeezed lime juice(!!!) is truly among the best margaritas we have ever enjoyed. Come for happy hour when the price is right, and enjoy the outdoor patio that overlooks the heart of town.

Livewire Cafe (M-Su 6AM-10PM)

Enjoy a hot cup of organic joe and a vegan oatmeal cookie while you get connected in this breezy, yet modern internet cafe. With good tunes and choice views of Haleakala, the prices are reasonable and it’s the only option in town. Also offers wireless for those with laptops. On ocean side of Hana Hwy a few paces south from the intersection with Baldwin.

Moana Bakery & Cafe (Breakfast 8-11 AM, Lunch 11-3 PM, Dinner 3-9 PM)

With nightly live music, vegan soups, and local produce and goods, Moana doesn’t disappoint anyone looking for a sit-down meal. Best vibes are at dinner — check the door to see who’s playing this week. On Baldwin near Mana Foods.

Devocean Juice Bar (M-F 10-6, Sat 10-4)

Groove to the reggae beats as you wait for your 100% organic juice, smoothie or acai bowl. Located on Hana Hwy, next to Livewire Cafe. Check out the stylish goods as you wait to be served.

Hana Bay Juice Co. (M- Su 7:30am- 3:30pm) R

Good breakfast joint for those on the move. All smoothies made with non-fat, non-dairy frozen yogurt. Vegan bagel sandwich ($4) is well worth the good price. Located on Hana Hwy across from intersection with Baldwin.

The Wine Corner (M-W noon-10PM, Th-Su noon-10:30PM)

Excellent selection of organic and vegan beers, wines and spirits. Across from Charley’s on right side of Hana Hwy as you enter town from the south.

ACCOMMODATIONS

The Tropohouse (808) 575-2118

A few miles south of Paia, this bed & breakfast is nestled in a quaint little corner of upcountry. Good variety of rooms ranging from $49-$99 per night plus tax. Boasts a community kitchen, living room, lanai and patio. The place has a good feel, very relaxing with good privacy. Rates include a light breakfast of bagels, organic fruits, coffee and tea. Eco-friendly cleaning.

LOCAL ART

Maui Crafts Guild (M-Su 9AM- 6PM) (808) 579-9697, Gallery 43 Hana Hwy.

At the north end of Paia, you’ll find this very impressive artist owned and operated cooperative gallery. The 21 members of the co-op run every aspect of the Guild all by themselves, and best of all, everything is 100% hand made on Maui.

TRANSPORTATION

www.bio-beetle.com (808) 873-6121

Need some wheels? Now you can scoot around town and feel good about it! These 100% Biodiesel car rentals run on used vegetable oil sourced from local restaurants! It’s hard not to be excited – there’s a lot of driving to be done on Maui.

SUSTAINABLE SHOPPING

Hemp House

Purses, backpacks, flowy clothes and shirts stamped with Bushisms make for a refreshing boutique. Whatever your choice, when you buy hemp products you’re contributing to a growing, sustainable business. On Baldwin.

Sutrov Gallery

Next to The Wine Corner, across from Charley’s you’ll find this eclectic gallery of original Maui art — they only hang local names on the wall!

***There is a recycling center about 2 miles south of Paia on Hana Hwy across from the Haiku Community Center.

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Spencer Klein’s ideal place to watch the sunset: “Seen September Sessions? From one of those hollow ones during F Stop Blues in the last section.”

Molokai from Helicopter Photo by Amelia
Leubscher

Molokai demands kokua, or respect. This is the strongest community I have ever witnessed in all my modest travels of the world. The locals have basically shut down two multi-million dollar resorts on the west side of the island. And they did it all by themselves. They have fought off cruise ships, yachts, group tours, heli-tours, developers, and mainland transplant haoles for over four decades, and now people simply know…you just don’t show up on Molokai. You go there with respect, in small numbers. Tread lightly and you will be welcomed with aloha.

GENERAL INFO

Kaunakakai

What the Molokai ‘ohana call “town” is basically just a couple of blocks along Ala Malama, with some offshoots on side roads. There is no traffic and no traffic lights, and no building in town is taller than a coconut tree.

Kaunakakai has everything you need and it’s the only place that does, so you’ll want to stock up accordingly. Coming from the airport or west side, take a left onto Ala Malama (at the Chevron on the corner). It’s pretty hard to miss considering the rural backdrop you’ll see along the way. If you’re coming over on the ferry, just follow the wharf road straight and it will turn into Ala Malama. The walk from the wharf, assuming you want to avoid the sky-high taxi fares, will take about fifteen minutes.

American Savings Bank and Bank of Hawaii are right next to each other at the beginning of town. Both have a 24hr ATM. To get back in touch with the cyberworld, hit up Stanley’s Coffee House and Gallery at the far end of town for the fastest internet access on the island; there is also WIFI at Outpost Natural Foods for a suggested donation of $1. Not a bad price and it serves to support the island’s only health food establishment! The Molokai Public Library also has a few computers with internet access, as well as several local and national newspapers. Be sure to check the locals for info on upcoming events, activities, etc. There is a Post Office in town right on Ala Malama, and the Molokai General Hospital is located off the main drag in the far part of town, just follow the blue signs.

Camping: it will be helpful to stop by the Deptartment of Parks & Recreation in the Mitchell Pauole Center on the corner of Ala Malama and Ainoa St., adjacent to the baseball fields. The MP Center is a full service recreation facility that features a gym, indoor swimming pool, two tennis courts, and a noteworthy skate park. Also check the uber-helpful Molokai Visitors Association on the corner of Kamoi St. and the main highway on the southeastern edge of town.

Leaving town, take a left off Ala Malama onto Kamehameha V (HWY 450) to head east, or a right onto the Maunaloa Hwy (HWY 460) to head west (towards the airport). HWY 450 and HWY 460 are essentially the same road, the name just changes at Kaunakakai. Mile markers are helpful reference points on Molokai, with Kaunakaki representing mile 0 and the mile markers ascending as you leave town in either direction. If the interisland ferry beckons, just head straight through the intersection of Ala Malama and the main highway and take the wharf road all the way to the end. The Molokai Princess should be waiting…

GREEN MARKETS & RESTAURANTS

Outpost Natural Foods & Deli

Outpost is the classic example of doing the best with what you’ve got. In an older building on Makaena Pl., next to the unnamed gas station, you will find a good selection of all the staples you’ll need to stock up on (including bulk), plus a few treats you might not be expecting. The assortment of seasonal organic fruits and veggies is impressive considering the process it takes to get them here. There’s cold drinks — even Kombucha! — and a frozen section with a surprising variety of vegan goodies. One look around town and it won’t take long to realize this is the only health food establishment on the island, and the only place consistently selling organic produce. Great deals on seasonal produce are frequent. In the back you’ll find your island salvation if you eat veg, in the form of a deli. The daily lunch special ($6, served 11-3) is usually down-right delicious, and it’s served up in very generous portions. Don’t forget, wireless internet is available for a suggested donation of $1 — just pull your car up next to the store and whip out the laptop… drop your recyclables here too!

Farmer’s Market (Sa 6am – noon)

Every Saturday morning, rain or shine, Molokai’s farmers gather along Ala Malama Ave. to offer up their goods. There’s no better way to support green living than buying directly from the farmers –especially in a community this small. Be sure to ask if the produce is organic and get there early for the best selection. Local artists and artisans set up shop too.

Friendly Market

Right in the middle of town, this is easily the largest grocery store on the island, and thus the cheapest place to shop. There is a small health food section, and they offer an organic wine beer options. The frozen section has some gardenburgers and the like. Most importantly, stock up on water here (especially if you’re camping) because water prices elsewhere are pretty high. Some organic produce.

Stanley’s Coffee Shop & Gallery

This is bound to be your place of morning refuge if you’re a coffee drinker, and you most likely won’t be disappointed. The lattes ($3) and coffees ($2) are excellent, and there’s a host of fresh baked goodies, bagels, and breakfast plates. Decent vegetarian options, but not too much in the way of dairy-free goods. Bring your own soy. Pleasant environment provides a good arena to strike up conversations with the locals.

SUSTAINABLE ARTS

Molokai Artists & Crafters Guild (553-8018)

Located above American Savings Bank on Ala Malama, this tasteful gallery and gift shop only displays the best works of the best artists on the island. It was created to fill the need of Molokai’s artists who previously had no place to display or sell their work – that means more support for the local economy. Ask one of the artists to show you around, he or she will be happy to let you in on the story behind each work of art.

SEE THE SIGHTS

On the south side of the main highway Ala Malama turns into Kaunakakai Pl. (also known as the wharf road), which leads out to the Kaunakakai Wharf. Besides the wonderful views, the wharf is a great place to get a feel for the lifestyle of Molokai’s residents. You will find fishermen cruising the 150 yard pier at virtually all hours of the day, and families enjoying a dip in the calm waters on the west side. If you want to chill out Molokai-style, break out a few a chairs, a cooler, and kick back to the trades blowing through the Pailolo channel. Maui and Lanai are the two islands you will see just across the way. Undoubtedly, the best time of year at the wharf is during the outrigger canoe races of June and July. Show up on Saturday mornings (when they’re typically held) and you’ll find a few more coolers than normal, with rowdy fans, concession stands, and plenty of fun for all ages.

The wharf is also home to a twenty year-old fishing cooperative, the Molokai Ice House, and at the end lies the port of call for the inter-island ferry, the Molokai Princess. Right before the wharf begins, on the west side, you will (hardly) see the remains of King Kamehameha V’s vacation home. It’s nothing more than a pile of stone rubble, and nothing to stop for, but it’s a good bit of history for the rest of the bunch in the car. More King Kamehaha V history is just down the road a mile west of town, where you will see the 10 acre Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove, planted by the King to provide shade for visiting royalty. Wear a helmet if you plan to stroll through the grove.

PILLOWS & STARS & DREAMS

One Ali’i Beach Park

Pronounced oh-nay ah-lee-ee, this beach park is actually two parks right next to each other on the ocean side of Kam V Hwy around the 3 mi. marker. Only the easternmost park (One Ali’i I) is designated for camping, and the facilities are simple with bathrooms and showers. This place will do the trick if you’re not looking for much (or need to catch the early ferry), but there is relatively no privacy or shade and the park is frequently used by local families for large parties and gatherings. The parties, of course, can be a plus or minus depending on your mood and willingness to join the crowd, but be prepared to hit the pillow to the sound of music. Parties are more frequent on weekends. The swimming right out front is very poor with shallow, muddy water. Permits ($3/nt per camper) are required and there is a 3 night max.

ORIENTATE & OUTFIT

If you think the other islands are too “planned” with cookie-cutter itineraries, safe eco-tours and the sort, you’re definitely in for a treat here. Ask five people whether or not you can make the hike back to Moaula Falls from Halawa Valley without a guide, and you’re likely to get five different answers. One might say “Sure, bruddah, no sweat,” and another might imply you’re asking for “lickins.” Trust us, you don’t want lickins, so we highly recommend you heed our advice, and even more so, the advice of the local outfitters. We did our research well, but some things have undoubtedly changed since that time. That said, out of respect for the locals as well as your own well being, it’s best to confirm everything with the locals.

Friendly Market

On a similar note, it might seem unappealing or discouraging to have to pay for guides, permits, or tours, but keep in mind these are the very things that keep Molokai afloat. Unemployment rates are extremely high on the island and the average per capita income is considerably lower than on the other major islands. So consider that camping permit or guided tour your chance to contribute to an island community that is fighting hard to maintain its character and integrity. These considerations shouldn’t discourage any visitor; there is, in fact, a plethora of raw, unguided adventure awaiting everyone who comes to Molokai. For adventure of any sort, these are the best guides, outfitters, and compasses on the island, and most happen to be in or around town — in no particular order…

Molokai Visitor’s Association (www.molokai-hawaii.com, M-F 8am-4:30pm, 553-5221)

On the corner of Kamoi St. and the main highway. Good info on everything that does seem a bit “packaged,” and decent info on less commercial adventures. Offers a library of brochures. Can help lead you to “green” vacation rentals as well! If you’ve never been to the island, we recommend stopping by.

Molokai Outdoors (553-4477, M-Sa 8-5, Su 8-4)

Located in the lobby of Hotel Molokai, this is our choice for the island’s best outfitter. Offers everything you could want or need to rent at hourly, daily, and weekly rates. Good info on the tricky activities like the hike from Halawa Valley, and tours to the Kalaupapa Peninsula. Full-day and half-day guided tours are available for good prices.

Molokai Fish & Dive (552-0184)

Offers a host of rentals for every outdoor activity you could imagine at decent prices. Employs several activity guides who can lead you on packaged and customized tours of the island — surf lessons, kayak tours, horseback rides, hikes, bike tours — you name it.

Molokai Surf (558-8943)

Surf shop a half mile west of town with all the standard goods. If you’re in search of waves, let owner and longtime Molokai resident, Jerry Leonard, point you in the right direction.

WEST SIDE

BEACHES

The west side beaches of Molokai are some of the most beautiful in all the islands and for the most part they remain completely deserted. Many of the beaches here would be absolutely mobbed if they were on any other island, so cherish the fact that your footprints might be the only ones you see. That said, it seems only fair to continue with the traditional obscurity in describing the region. As for the landmark beaches that have already been revealed…

Almost 3 miles in length, Papohaku Beach ranks as the longest and largest beach in all of Hawaii. The golden sand seems to stretch forever, paving the way for one of those magical, uninterrupted barefoot strolls we all dream of. Despite its beauty and the vast amount of coastline it covers, you’re still likely to see only a handful of people on the entire beach, and at times, you may walk the full stretch without seeing another soul. There are four access points to Papohaku — the main one is through the Papohaku Beach Campground, a very nice, well shaded campground with good facilities. For those looking to get away from it all, PBC is easily the best campground on the island, and a surefire candidate for the best campground in all of Hawaii.

Tips
As the trade winds pick up throughout the day, violent sandstorms become quite common and unless you’re on the north end of the beach protected by the rocky point, you can well expect a blasting. Another drawback is the lack of shade, and it’s always sunny on the leeward side. Finally, the waters here are known for exceptionally strong currents and undertow. Unless you are a confident surfer or waterman (there are breaks all up and down the beach on W and N swells), it would be best to exercise extreme caution when taking a dip. Winter swimming conditions are locally described as “treacherous.”

Beyond the point marking the south end of Papohaku Beach there are several beach access points with beautiful views, beautiful beaches, and pleasant settings. Many are too rocky for swimming, but remain ideal for the secluded sunset or stargazing you’re after. Follow the road south from the campground all the way to the end, and you will stumble upon Dixie Maru, named for an old ship that sunk off the coast years ago. The setting here is sublime. There are two rocky points that protect the golden sand cove and harbor its beautiful turquoise waters from the elements. The swimming here is excellent on a calm day, offering the best snorkeling on the west side, and when the waves are up, there are good point breaks on both sides. Explore around the south point, see what you find.

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Spencer Klein’s ideal place to watch the sunset: “Seen September Sessions? From one of those hollow ones during F Stop Blues in the last section.”

locals during Oktoberfest

Think Germany, think beer; Think beer, think Oktoberfest. The young Germans still hold true to the sanctity of tradition and come dressed in their finest leather pants for a beer swilling, song filled good time; the older generation is a sight to behold with their wicked, cut and curled mustaches. (www.oktoberfest.de) 2008 Oktoberfest starts September 20th, so get your friends together and rent an apartment early (www.vbro.com or www.homeaway.com ), to avoid the overpriced and overcrowded hostels. Or worse, end up drunk with no place to rest your hungover head.

Visit the house that gave Hitler vertigo for some astounding views of Berchtesgaden National Park from the Eagles Nest (Kehlsteinhaus). If the weathers right, forgo the bus ride down and hoof it across the mountainside. Skip across the border at night and crash in the Mozart filled Austrian city of Salzburg, and yes, the hills just might come alive with the Sound of Music.

Trudge uphill with the mobs of camera toting, Hawaiian shirt clad tourists to see one of Germany’s most pristine castles, the Neuschwanstein (www.hohenschwangau.de). Here’s a tip: hike five minutes past Marien Bridge for a better view and complete solitude. Stay at Lando’s L.A House hostel a few kilometers away in Fussen for a cozy old house, great price and a happy host who seems to be able to say “Thank You” in forty languages. (www.housela.de)

view from the Eagle’s nest

Rent a bike (5-10 euros/day) at any of the small Alpine villages and spend the days pedaling around crystalline lakes, through cow pastures and stopping for Gluwein (hot spiced, red wine) to keep warm when the clouds move in. And you still have kilometers to go to get home.

Hit up the Couchsurfing project to find locals who will let you crash on their couches or at least agree to meet you at one of the many Bavarian Beer Gardens and show you their favorite local spots (www.couchsurfing.com). The Bavarian are uncommonly warm and friendly in their homeland, and love showing it off.

Head into the deep south of the Bavarian Alps, to Oberstdorf, which is a tiny (primarily German) tourist spot. Excellent hiking, views from sharp cliffs and plenty of hillside cafes for coffees and Germknodel (a plum filled dumpling covered in vanilla sauce). At first glance the nightlife seems lacking, but begin with a traditional dinner and a liter of steam brewed beer at the Dampf Bier Brauerei, then head to the basement of the Oberstdorf Hotel for the Hor (?) Bar, filled with local students and weekday ping-pong.

Pack your Hiking boots and trudge through ankle deep autumn leaves on any one of the hundreds of kilometers of trails. Be sure to find your way to the butcher, bakery and cheese shops early in the morning for a spectacular European picnic.

With that American dollar falling, take advantage of the best deal in Bavaria; the Bavaria Ticket. It allows up to five people to travel together on the regional trains all day for only 27 euro. Single, 19 euro. Local tip: if you get to the train station early, there might be people around trying to get a group together. (www.Diebahn.de )

With or without that someone special, don’t miss the Romantic Road (www.romantischestrasse.de). Fight global warming and use your thumb, plenty of others travelers already rented plenty of cars for everyone, and Bavaria is one of the worlds safer places to learn how to properly hitch hike. If all else fails, buy a hop on, hop off, ticket on the Romantic Road Europabus (www.deutsche-touring.com) and focus on napping between castle filled cities.

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About Rob Paetz: “I love to travel and take pictures; both of which are extremely expensive interests, but somehow I manage to constantly be going somewhere.” Check out his photo gallery here.

Child monks in Bhutan. Photo by Nathan Choe

Bhutan is the last of the independent Himalayan Buddhist kingdoms. Most Bhutanese still live a long walk from the road in big, beautiful farmhouses with terraced rice fields out front, red chili peppers drying on the roof, and white prayer flags snapping in the breeze.

Because of its unique geography, getting to Bhutan used to be practically impossible.The first roads in the country weren’t built until the 1960s, and only a handful of adventurers made it to the central valleys before 1974, when the first hotels were built to accommodate dignitaries arriving for the coronation ceremony of the current King.

At first the government ran the entire business itself, but eventually private companies were allowed to operate. These companies are all obliged to charge the same daily fee of $200. In 2008 Bhutan will implement a major political overhaul centered around democratic reforms. A lot of things will change, including the tourism regulations. The word now is that the $200 inclusive fee will be done away with in favor of a flat $100 government tax per tourist, per day, with all other expenses dictated by the market.

TOURISM IN BHUTAN – PRACTICAL INFORMATION

All visitors must use a registered tour company. The biggest is Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited, owned in large part by the royal family. This is the company that organized our tour and I was extremely impressed by our guide, driver and the BTCL hotels.

The second biggest tour operator is called ETHO METHO, online at www.ethometho.com. You might also take a look at www.lingkor.com, the website of a tour company owned by a reincarnate Buddhist holy man turned entrepreneur who seems to remember partying with my Mom in New York City in the 1970s.

It’s quite easy to arrange individually tailored trips geared around a specific theme, such as birding, rafting, trekking or Buddhist studies.

Druk Airlines Plane tail and Zong. Photo by Nathan Choe

Transport

The flight to Bhutan has the best mountain views of any commercially scheduled flight in the world. Most likely jet-lagged into a daze, you’re suddenly jolted awake by adrenaline as you pass by the peak of Mt. Everest. Get a window seat.

Entering the country overland at Puenthsoling is an interesting option, because the 6 hour drive up the river valley gives you the experience of climbing through various eco-zones to the heart of the Himalayas. Visas are issued at this border as well as at the airport, but to get a visa you must be pre-registered with a tour. The cost is $20. Keep your ear to the ground regarding regulations at the new overland crossing between Southeastern Bhutan and Assam, which is exit-only for the time being.

Useful info.

The government mandated $200 daily fee must include everything except souvenirs and drinks, so you don’t need to worry about constantly bargaining. The Bhutanese currency, the ngultrum, is pegged to the Indian rupee, at an exchange of about 44 ng to $1. Rupees are also widely accepted. A bottle of water costs around 15 ng in town and 35 ng in hotels. A ten minute taxi ride in Thimphu is around 60 ng. Bhutan produces excellent rums, and you can buy a liter of Dragon Rum for around 100 ng in shops, more in hotels.

Souvenirs are rather expensive, both because the Bhutanese are used to dealing with wealthy tourists and because the quality of local crafts is excellent. Bhutan produces some beautiful textiles, lots of Buddhist art and interesting metalwork. The Thimphu market (Fri-Sun) is a good place to shop. Remember that it is illegal to bring any object over 100 years old out of the country. Save receipts.

You can change travelers checks and foreign currency at the airport, major hotels, and banks in Thimphu. Visa cards are usually accepted in stores that cater to tourists, but not elsewhere.

International calls are possible but expensive at most hotels, but the local mobile phone network within Bhutan is extensive. Slow internet access is available in Thimphu at around 70 ng per hour and you can also get online at a few of the larger provincial hotels, where it’s more expensive.

Electricity is 220 volts, and the plugs are large and three pronged. Bring an adaptor.

Eats

Most meals in the hotels are served buffet style. At dinner, the first course is soup, which the wait-staff will bring to your table. A big pot of rice is standard, usually accompanied by dishes that include pork or beef, a curry of some sort, steamed vegetables and baked or fried fish (watch out for bones), At the end of the line, there will often be a bowl full of Bhutan’s national dish, ema-datsi, or hot chili peppers in cheese sauce. Wickedly spicy!

The food isn’t bad, but it does get monotonous. It’s a good idea to bring some granola bars or trail mix from home for day hikes or long bus rides. Brave diners can try ready made market food, but be careful with chogo, dried cubes of yak cheese hard enough to break teeth.

Child spinning prayer wheels. Photo by Nathan Choe

Authentic Culture

Because travel within Bhutan is so difficult, over the years each valley developed its own unique culture and distinct dialect. Over a dozen languages are spoken within the kingdom. The national language is called Dzongkha, as it is the language of the ancient fortress-monasteries, or Dzongs, which still function as the governing center of each province. Dzongkha is taught in schools, but the basic language of instruction is English, so nearly all young people are at least tri-lingual, speaking Dzongkha, English and the local language of their valley.

Archery is Bhutan’s national sport and if you see a match in progress be sure to stop and watch. Two teams face off at opposite ends of a range that stretches for all of 140 meters, with a tiny target barely visible at the far end. The opposing team stands around the target, trying to distract the tiny figure off in the distance who is launching deadly weapons in their direction. The archer lets fly, and if it’s a hit, everyone does a dance and sings and drinks rice whiskey before the next round.

The Tantric Buddhism practiced in Bhutan includes a vast pantheon of demons, bodhisattvas and other deities. Practitioners believe in the karmic cycle of reincarnation and strive to accumulate merit through good deeds and the performance of rituals. It’s common to see elderly men and women walking down the street muttering mantras and turning prayer wheels, which are conveniently built into walls along the sidewalks in towns.

The importance of good deeds includes a deep respect for all forms of life, from the smallest ant to the earth herself. During my travels, I sometimes saw Bhutanese stop on the sidewalk, pick up insects, and move them out of harms way. Fishing and logging are heavily regulated and frowned upon, as is the killing of animals for meat, although most Bhutanese happily eat pork and beef that someone else has slaughtered.

Many Bhutanese become monks at a young age. It can be a stark life of chanting and mediation for these boys, especially in monasteries perched high in the mountains, but there is an otherworldly sense of purity and peace in such places.

PLACES

Paro

Paro town is basically two streets running parallel to each other North of the airport. There are several local craft shops and a nice art gallery with original Bhutanese paintings and a terrific selection of black and white photographs.

The National Museum is in the old circular watchtower on a ridge above the Dzong. There are hundreds of beautiful Buddhist statues on the top floors and a dungeon downstairs where the first king of Bhutan was briefly incarcerated. There is also a display of medieval weaponry, but the doorway is heavily signposted with Buddhist texts preaching the virtues of pacifism.

There are several temples in Paro, including Kyichu Lhakhang, which dates back to the 7th century, when Buddhism first arrived in Bhutan. Your tour guide should be able to arrange a visit to Kyichu, which is located along the Paro River a short drive upstream from the center of town. With luck, the monks will allow you to view the original statues of the inner sanctum, long since dyed black by a millennium of smoke from butter lamps.

No visit to Bhutan is complete without a trip to the famous Taktshang Monastery, or “Tiger’s Nest,” which hangs from a sheer cliff thousands of feet above the valley floor, about 10 kilometers North of Paro town. Taktshang is actually a group of several monasteries, but Tiger’s Nest is by far the most dramatic.

Two lesser known destinations in Paro are Dungste Lhakhang temple and Dzong Drakha monastery. Dungste Lhakhang is located on the East side of the river upstream from the National Museum. When I visited, a funeral rite was in progress, and it was haunting to hear the monks chanting and beating drums as I climbed up worn wooden ladders to the upper levels of the temple. The wall paintings inside are breath-taking, but it’s very dark, so bring a flashlight.

Dzong Drakha is located a few kilometers up the road that leads West over Cheli La pass to the Haa Valley. This road has only been open to tourists for 3 years, so very few visitors know about the monastery. It’s sort of a Tiger’s Nest junior, perched on a less dramatic cliff about 40 minutes walk from the road. The views are magnificent, and you’re unlikely to run into other travelers.

Thimphu

The capital city of Thimphu is a dusty 2 hour drive from Paro. The road is due for widening and repair by 2008, but this project has a long way to go. A growing population of around 70,000 people make their homes on the surrounding hills, making Thimphu the closest thing to a city you’ll find in Bhutan. Traffic can be thick along the main street, but there are still no traffic lights, just a white-gloved policeman directing cars at the central interchange.

Punakha

Punakha is only about 40 kilometers from Thimphu as the crow flies, but the drive can easily take the better part of a day with a lunch break and a few photo stops. Be sure to bring your passport, because there is a checkpoint one hour outside Thimphu where soldiers can ask to see identification.

The road climbs up to Dochu La pass, an important spiritual place for the Bhutanese. Definitely make time to get out of the bus, stroll through the forest of prayer flags and take in stunning views of the Himalayan range.

Punakha valley is much lower than Thimphu, so once over the pass, the road goes down and down through thick green virgin forest. Keep an eye out for monkeys, red pandas, rare birds and beautiful tree lilies. The valley itself is carved by two wide glacial rivers that come together below Punakha Dzong, which many agree is the most beautiful fortress in all of Bhutan. Traditionally, the monks from the Dzong in Thimphu spend the winter at Punakha, taking advantage of the relatively mild climate.

I stayed for four nights in Punakha at Hotel Zangtho Pelri. Besides the Dzong, I highly recommend a day trip up the valley to the vast Jigme Dorji National Park. The road follows a roaring river through farmland, where you can get out and walk up to hillside villages. The National Park itself is a great place for spotting rare mammals and birds. It’s possible to drive all the way up to the border of Gasa Province and still be back at the hotel in time for dinner.

Phobjika

I visited Phobjika as a day trip from Punakha, but would definitely recommend staying there for one or two nights. The valley is well known as the winter home of Black-Necked Cranes, which arrive in mid-October after flying over the Himalayas from Tibet. The cranes are sacred in Bhutan, and the government has gone to great lengths to protect their habitat.

In past years, the only way to get to Phobjika was on foot, but a road has been built that branches off the main West-East high way just before the pass into Central Bhutan. It takes about 3 hours to make the trip from Punakha. There is a large temple on a hill overlooking the valley which is currently undergoing extensive renovations.

Recommended Reading

Those seriously considering a trip to Bhutan should get their hands on a real guidebook. Lonely Planet publishes a fairly comprehensive tome, but the best is probably Francoise Pommaret’s Bhutan: Himalayan Mountain Kingdom.

Jamie Zeppa, a Canadian women who went to Eastern Bhutan to teach and ended up staying, has written a wonderfully personal account of her experiences entitled Beyond the Sky and Earth: Journey Into Bhutan.

Jeremy Bernstein’s In the Himalayas is one of my very favorite travel books. It’s mostly about Nepal, but also includes beautiful portraits of Tibet and Bhutan.

The news scene in Bhutan can be pretty quiet, but if you want to get the most recent intelligence check out the online edition of Bhutan’s weekly paper at www.kuenselonline.com. The Bhutan Times also has a brand new website – www.bhutantimes.com.

Tashi Delek!

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Editor’s notes:

The full version of this guide including a Bhutan phrasebook can be found in Rucksack Wanderer’s Guide to Bhutan at matador.

Tim Patterson, contributing editor for Brave New Traveler and regular contributor to matador, travels with a sleeping bag and pup tent strapped to the back of his folding bicycle. His articles and travel guides have appeared in The San Francisco Chronicle, Get Lost Magazine, Tales Of Asia and Traverse Magazine.

Lake Louise, Banff

When it comes to Big North riding, one name undoubtedly pops to mind: Whistler Blackcomb. Oft-ranked the world’s best resort, Whistler has everything a skier or snowboarder desires: big mountain terrain, killer park and pipe, generous servings of fresh, and a vibrant village with plenty of nightlife and activities to hold your attention off-mountain. It also has one more defining quality: hype.

To the east, Lake Louise serves up the same big mountain experience in a quieter, less crowded, less expensive atmosphere— essentially, all the positives of Whistler minus the hype. Additionally, you get two more resorts–Sunshine Village and Ski Norquay–under an hour down the road, each with its own signature atmosphere, huge fall lines, and great snow. Situated in Banff National Park, these ski areas provide access to some of the most beautiful alpine terrain on the planet.

My experience with Lake Louise was small part ski vacation, large part honeymoon. My new wife and I love the winter and absolutely adored the counterintuitive idea of a honeymoon getaway amidst the coldest, snowiest climate available. You can keep the sun and beaches– give us the crisp chill of a January day at 8,000 feet and a few feet of new snow and we’re in our natural element. Given the backdrop of this trip, no ordinary ski resort would fit the bill.

Originally, our thoughts drifted toward Europe and the Swiss Alps, however, time and money would not allow for such a lengthy, extravagant voyage. After some research and debate, we nearly settled on Tahoe.

Given the huge shadow that Whistler has cast upon other Canadian resorts, the only reason I’d ever even heard of Lake Louise was because of my near-obsessive research of world resorts on RSN.com—I always have my eye on my next great ride.

A few minutes of background checking and it was clear that Lake Louise was the perfect place for us. The area is the antithesis of every ski resort you’ve ever been to. Built on its reputation as a beautiful summer retreat, Louise experiences the off-season in winter. As such, hotel prices are a fraction of what you’d pay in the summer and crowds are at the barest of minimums.

To make things that much sweeter, Lake Louise’s location within Banff National Park has set the scene for strict development regulations. There is no real town or village and the whole area consists of the ski resort and a few loosely construed hotels, lodges, restaurants and shops. Even the locals are put up in employee housing on hotel grounds. I can’t even recall seeing a house or condo in the area. Essentially, you have government mandated crowd control.

Lake Louise, Banff

Lake Louise is a beautiful deep blue-green alpine lake set amidst towering mountain peaks, with the Victoria glacier on the far side. The Fairmont Chateau, set on the shore directly facing the glacier, offers incredible views of the lake and mountains right from your own bedroom window—the perfect place for a romantic adventure retreat.

Although I was only able to sneak off for a little riding, I was blown away by the conditions and terrain. The snow was damn-near perfection even without a recent storm—soft and light with no rough or icy patches anywhere. It allowed one to point and shoot and catch the perfect edge every time.

The terrain was huge and wide open with everything you dream about in the summer months: big wide bowls, huge-angled steeps, trees, and great intermediate and black runs for blazing down full-speed. Unlike many resorts that split their vertical among base areas at scattered altitudes, Louise allows you to drop the majority of its vertical, from the upper bowls down to the bottom base, in one continuous, adrenaline-inducing fall line—making for long, fast runs and some of the best riding I’ve done in Canada or anywhere else. For the number junkie—Lake Louise offers 113 trails cut across 4,200 acres, with 3250 vertical drop—pretty impressive for a resort that you may never have heard of.

Lake Louise is the ultimate winter spot to do some of the best riding of your life and head back for a quiet, romantic evening with your girl. However, if you’re looking for a bit more civilization, a place to kick back with a group of your best friends—stop down the road at Banff. Banff offers your typical ski town with shops, restaurants and plenty of places to grab some libation. Within about 15 minutes drive are two great resorts. Ski Norquay, the smallest of Banff-area resorts, is great for families and beginners, but also has a healthy number of challenging black runs. The resort offers 28 runs over 190 acres altogether and is home to some of Canada’s oldest ski runs. Sunshine Village offers some incredible big mountain riding with plenty of steeps and expert terrain. The resort totals 107 runs over 3358 acres. Among its acreage, Sunshine houses a number of gut-wrenching steeps and terrain to satisfy even the most jaded expert. All this and you can still make it to Lake Louise in about 40 minutes or so.

Getting to Banff/Lake Louise couldn’t be much easier. Calgary International Airport offers flights from all around the world. From here, it is a pain-free 2 hours or so to the Banff/Lake Louise area up Trans-Canada Highway 1, Banff being about 1 ½ hours, with Lake Louise another 40 minutes or so up the highway. I’d definitely recommend staying at the Fairmont Chateau—you can always find some sweet rates via package—for around $1000 I got 5 nights of lodging plus a ski pass. Here, you’re guaranteed to get the most memorable views of your life in a gorgeous hotel with a variety of excellent, fine restaurants. There are plenty of other lodging and dining options in Lake Louise and Banff, as well.

Check out www.skibanff.com for more info on Lake Louise, Banff, Sunshine Village and Ski Norquay.

Other places in British Columbia worth checking out:

Fernie Alpine Resort

Kimberly Alpine Resort

Panorama

Kicking Horse

Quite frankly, BC is like Colorado or Vermont—so many great resorts in a concise area. If you still need more options hit up www.rsn.com, check the resorts section, and click on Canada—you’ll get info on all these Canadian resorts and many more, divided by province.

Canada mimics the terrain of the US in that the biggest mountains and riding are all out west. However, if you’re looking to take a road trip from one of those big cities in the East, you’ll have plenty of solid options as well. Eastern Canadian riding is comparable to what you’d find in VT or upstate NY and, big bonus—some resorts are within an hours of Montreal—a party haven and the Canadian twist on City of Sin.

Consider these options with authentic French names:

Mont Tremblant

Le Massif

Mont Sainte Anne

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Please check out Christopher Weiss’s profile here.

terrain of Northern Argentina. Photo by Eamonn Lawlor

One of the amazing things about South America is that places like Humamarca and Buenos Aires exist in the same country. If you are traveling in Argentina and want to explore indigenous culture, grab your backpack and get on a bus for Salta and Jujuy, two provinces in Northwest Argentina.

1. Salta Capital a medium-sized city with few tourist attractions, but great cuisine. You’ll already notice how different small-town Argentina is to places like Buenos Aires. Eat a hearty dish of locro while you are here; it’s a stew made of fresh corn. Try its variation guachalocro with goat cheese sprinkled on top for a delicious belly-warmer.

Things to see and do in Salta include viewing architecture, walking, museums, presentations of folkloric music and dance, and eating. The main plaza, Plaza 9 de Julio, is Salta’s prime attraction, with its well-preserved Italian Neoclassical church dating from 1882, plenty of benches and trees to relax, and touristy cafes serving somewhat overpriced food and drinks. A fifteen-minute walk away from the plaza is the Cerro San Bernardo, a hill that you can rise up by taking a teleferico or by a thirty-minute hike up stairs.

2. San Salvador de Jujuy. Known as the most Andean city in Argentina because of the large Bolivia population. Here’s a little secret: the best food in town can be found at the Bolivian market around the corner from the bus terminal. Don’t eat too much of it right away or you’ll get a stomach-ache!

3. Quebrada del Toro Small villages set in valleys between along the Andean Cordilera. You can spend up to two days in each of these towns: Pumamarca, Tilcara, and Humamarca. Each has archaeological ruins, beautiful cemeteries, hills to climb to watch the sunset, delicious local cuisine (try the llama steaks!), and musicians performing in the streets. If you want to really tap into the unique culture of Northwest Argentina, step off the beaten path and head to Iruya.

Campesina in Northern Argentina. Photo by Any Manetta

4. Iruya Like a tangent off the main route, a remote speck that just calls to you to break away from the beaten path and come visit it. Board a huge bus resembling a tank in Humahuaca, one of the last towns in Argentina before the border with Bolivia, and brace yourself for a three-hour seat-gripping descent into a mountainous valley where lies the town of Iruya.

The ride seems to descend into the mouth of the Earth. Upon arrival you will be greeted by small, bubble-eyed girls who take your hands and lead you to lodging. As you climb over cobblestone paths you’ll notice the serenity of this tiny hamlet. The lodgings are humble except for one high-priced hotel, but just sitting out on the stoop and drinking mate and enjoying the view is enough to make you feel like you are in a palace of natural beauty.

The people of Iruya are proud of their indigenous identities and they are shy to mix with visitors from urban Argentina or elsewhere. Despite this hesitancy, they are incredibly friendly and patient with tourists who ask nosy questions about their local customs. Although the people of Iruya wear factory-made clothes and watch television, they live in the middle of the mountains and raise sheep, goats, and pigs. With their hands they spin wool throughout the day to make carpets or clothing. If it weren’t for the presence of the three staples of every Latin American town – a soccer field, a main plaza, and a church – you wouldn’t even know you were in Argentina, or any country with Spanish heritage. The unique culture and lifestyle of Iruya, as in any remote village, is a result of hundreds or even thousands of years of interactions with the land.

5. San Isidrio. Whereas in Iruya there were televisions, cars, and tourists wandering about, a twelve-kilometer hike down the river takes you to a tiny hamlet where there are no vehicles, nothing resembling an actual bar or cafe with a TV. There are people washing clothes in the river or sitting in adobe houses knitting wools, or boys walking in groups with a soccer ball. It was surreal to be so remote from anything resembling a city, and it makes you daydream about Spanish explorers following the valley and river until they reached this settlement, and the kinds of cultural interactions that must have produced.

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Info:

Argentinacontact.com has more options for visiting small-towns in Northern Argentina.

bus companies and schedule for Argentina

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About Rachel Signer: “”I’m a freelance anthropologist, roaming the world doing what I have to do to accomplish my dreams, loving it all, and recognizing the beautiful parts as well as the not-so-pretty things.”

Montego Bay, Jamaica. Photo by rappensuncle/

Jamaica

exchange rate: 1 to 69.775

When one hears the words “Sandals Resort”, we immediately think of over-priced and undercultured. This is unfortunate, as Jamaica offers not only one of the most fascinating islands in the Caribbean, but can be traversed for very little–provided you stay away from the resorts! Jamaicans have a rich history, excellent food, and a demeanor that can’t be beat.

Dominican Republic

1 to 47.28

Another of the Caribbean islands that does not rely too strongly on Tourism and “services,” the Dominican Republic boasts a stable democracy (30 years) and a weak peso (DOP). Within very uneven wealth distribution, even those of moderate means in the states can live like–er–royalty. An old travelpunk.com friend of my wife and I purchased an apartment there.

Trinidad/Tobago

1 to 6.25

Populated on one end (Trinidad – lots of manufacturing for goods throughout the Americas), heavily wooded on the other. Primary language is English making it relatively comfortable. While tourism is growing, however, T&T is not nearly as dependent on tourism as other Caribbean islands–making it a paradise for those looking to go off the beaten path.

Cuba

1 to 0.92 or 26.5

The taboo island. Bay of Pigs aside, the Cuban flavor has long-heralded a island rich with excitement. As a communist nation, foreign currency becomes relative icing on the cake. There’s a strange caveat though–Cuba maintains two “parallel” currencies whose values vary depending on who you are. Foodstuff and other essentials operate under the traditional peso (1:26.5), while luxury goods operate on the higher-conversion rate “covertible” peso. US dollars used to be accepted currency, but now carry a 10% commission. The lesson? Untangle the socio-politico-economic mess that is the currency and your exchange rate changes significantly.

Mystery Island

1 to ?

I can’t give away all of my secrets, can I? Turks & Caicos is being billed as a “Last Chance to See” kind of place–due to simply turn into another Bahamian resort site soon. The islands have remained relatively unspoiled for many years which have kept its costs down. This is good, because savings will not be as a result of currency conversion–they are on the U.S. Dollar. The Netherlands Antilles, with a diverse history resulting in half-dutch, half-French colonization and an economy based heavily on drug traffic and money laundering, would probably make the bottom of a 5-point list (1:1.79).

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A regular contributor to Matador, Jacob Bielanksi is currently working on a project uncovering how the US government obtains data on travelers.