Image: NPCA photos

1. Horseshit

Attila had the stove lit early. We ate raw oatmeal and diced apples that we soaked overnight, and had coffee for warmth. The sun rose over the eastern ridge that separated the June Lake loop from Mammoth and it hit camp like the morning bell.

Then we set out. It was blue on all sides, but there was no breeze and that meant the summer sky would draw up moisture from the horseshoe valley of lakes to condense and fall. By mid-afternoon there would be a storm up high. By late afternoon the rain would begin to hit the valley.

“Fucking horseshit.” It laced the trail like brown buttons on a sandy ribbon. “I think I”m allergic to trails that allow horses. These are freshies too. What kind of a fucking—-” Atilla was a bit of an Edward Abbey type. He was the bearded man who always packed in whiskey and never missed an opportunity to illuminate the moral dissipation of America. All that and a topographic eye and razor sharp sense of humor.

We scanned the side of the mountain looking for the horses. Nothing doing. I pushed ahead of him. One foot in front of the other trying to breathe deeply without thinking of it. Three thousand feet in a few miles. And a good thirty five pounds on our back.

On a switchback I saw Atilla resting in the shade of a blue fir below. I went on. The silence was so much better for the both of us if only smudged by the shuffle of two feet instead of four. How could you ever carry along a good thought to its end?

Photo: Uncle Leo

Responsibilities dissolve at some point, save for the inherent finding food and drink, then letting them go. All the rest flies off with the osprey above the lake. Effortless on air. How do they become so involved in existence?

A marmot whistle caught my attention. Then a chipmunk erupting in primal fear across the trail. All hind brain, no frontal lobe. Animals these days. Shouldn’t they be able to cast me as the type that has no taste for meat?

Maybe I need a little more hind brain. Give way to the automaton within: movement, posture, balance, breath. Those are the things that will get you to the top. Not your wistful banter and romanticizing. Though the peak looked idyllic. And there’s no better metaphor than ascent. One foot in front of the other.

2. Damned Lakes

When the sun was high I stopped to rest and wait for Attila at Agnew Lake. Twelve hundred feet above the trailhead. The plan from there was to climb the steep trail up to Gem Lake, a highly touted slice of the Ansel Adams Wilderness Area eight hundred feet higher, and then move on up to Clark Lake and Agnew Pass, where we would make camp. But when we saw Gem Lake we lost faith in that plan.

“Do you think there’s any relationship between the words damned and dammed?” Attila asked. “This lake right here — does it make any difference which word I use?”

“I don’t know Atilla. You might have something there. We’ll have to take a look at the etymologies when we get back to a dictionary.”

“Goddammit we don’t need any dictionaries,” he said. ” That lake there is damned.” A good laugh in the mountains embodies innocence.

Photo: hojaleaf

Our plans changed because the lakes were dammed. The whole series was dammed: Agnew, Gem, and Waugh, all three of the biggest lakes in the canyon.

You go to Chicago to admire something man made. Not the union of the Ansel Adams Wilderness Area and Yosemite National Park.

“Let’s go up a different canyon,” I said. “Isn’t there a different pass over there to the north.”

Attila saw a trail heading up the granite wall on the other side of the lake. We got out the topo and changed the plans. Then we took off our boots and aired out our feet.

3. Whistles

We ate lunch and took off our shirts and put our boots back on. Then we had a swig of water and set off. It was a steep wall of loose granite. Rocks and boulders. I kept an eye and an ear to what was shaking overhead. I imagined death. Better to think of things like death. The leash to my teabag this morning had a quote: “The world is a tragedy to those who feel, and a comedy to those who think.” Not that all is a comedy.

“Wake up.”

Attila had gone ahead up the wall, all spry like a mountain goat. When I caught up to him he was lain out in a meadow in the shade of a cedar, his head resting on his pack.

“Just admiring the smell of the sage,” he said.

“Horseshit.”

“No, we left that behind. Didn’t you notice?”

“I did. They went up to Gem Lake, didn’t they?”

“How are you doing on water?” he asked.

“I could use a bit.”

We pumped from the small creek that ran from the meadow. It looked to be snowmelt as far as we could tell. Then we drank and had an apple and were off.

One foot in front of the other. Where are the dwarf huckleberries? Is it too late? We were climbing. From the meadow a dozen switchbacks took us through a dense grove of pines up another wall. From the clearing on the other side of the grove it looked like we were only a hundred feet below the pass.

Then a marmot sounded a whistle, and then another. Noise is ethereal in the mountains. Eleven or twelve whistles. I looked back and Attila had stopped to listen, fifteen feet down on the switchback below.

“Their whistles correlate with risk,” he said.

“What does that mean?”

“The more he whistles, the more danger he thinks he’s in.”

“Maybe we’re between the mom and her pups.”

“Better pups than cubs.”

4. Colors

The top of the wall was a false summit. Another wide meadow and a thin creek that was colder than the last. I iced my hand and held it to the back of my neck. Another ridge to climb, but now the wildflowers are out in numbers. Color is power. The hell with money. Wear red on Fridays because it instills energy. And it’s an international symbol of peace. Pink lupines and white lupines and yellow and red lupines. But sometimes red is so unnatural. Then a purple thistle. Beautiful. Green is the new black. Oh, yeah, everything green; green cheerios, green oil. Super.

Blue skies, thanks to the breeze. One foot in front of the other. Then the bedtime songs start to repeat and that gets annoying. The little guy is three thousand feet below me right now. He must be ready for his nap. I hate how mothers get all the credit for intuition. I bet he’s just now getting tired. I know he is. Father’s intuition.

I dropped my pack at the pass just to the side of the trail so Attila would see it. Yeah, the hell with money. But I would use it for good things. We’ve been so many places where so little would go so far. What if we built a soccer field right up to the sand in that small village just to the north of Playa El Zonte? But then my friends would be mad if I spent it all on soccer fields. No they wouldn’t. Give them all huge birthday gifts. Or just fly them places.

Attila will see my pack, but I know he’s just as proud as I am. He won’t climb this peak today because I’m already going up it. He’ll probably have a drink and set up camp. Hopefully he starts dinner.

I’m not that far from the Pacific Crest Trail now. That would be reality. Mexico to Canada. But I don’t have any thirst for the desert. Maybe here to Canada. I would rather be on the coast.

I can see the Minarets cresting over the ridge like alpine steeples. Fine mountain air. I can see the whole Mono Lake basin, the drainage network; mindsurf the glacier that formed this canyon, down the steep granite wall, over Agnew Lake, and down again, across Silver Lake and the valley into the basin and beyond. A foot here. A foot there.

Then the silence.

Community Connection

If you have a Note from the Road you’d like to submit, please email david [at] matadornetwork.com.

Feature photo by Spencer Klein. Photo above by jetalone.

Flying is often the best option to get where we want to go. It’s quick, it’s cheap, and—depending on the airport—it can be easy. But we might not be aware that it comes with a tremendous environmental price tag.

According to environmental scientist and alternative fuel specialist, Dr. Mike Anfinson, “As far as measuring our own carbon footprint goes, it [flying] is the single-most detrimental choice we can make as travelers.”

That’s something not all of us realize. When you’re on one continent in the morning and another continent by the afternoon, there’s not so much time to think of what all those sky miles mean. “It’s a modern luxury that is too often taken for granted,” adds Dr. Anfinson.

What does that spell for the common traveler?

The reality is that people are not going to stop flying, just as they are not going to stop driving. Our transportation habits are too deeply rooted in the network of human culture.

Fortunately, airline companies around the world are beginning to take notice, offering new ways to clean up the mess.

Photo by maveric2003.

Leading the charge is Costa Rica’s Nature Air. In 2004, Nature Air became the world’s first carbon neutral airline, at a time when other airlines were only beginning to consider their impact. And they did so with no added cost to customers.

It seemed like a fitting move in the country that virtually invented ecotourism.

In 2007 alone Costa Rica hosted 1.9 million visitors, fueling a $1.9-billion-a-year tourism industry—an industry based almost exclusively around the country’s treasured natural ecosystem.

Nature Air has chosen local “conservation and reforestation efforts [within the country] as their method of compensation,” looking to protect the very lure that brought their customers to Costa Rica in the first place.

By flying Nature Air, passengers are directly supporting reforestation and conservation within what many see as the country’s crown jewel, the Osa Peninsula. In addition, all company vehicles are run on 100% biodiesel.

Silverjet, a British airline launched in 2007, came onto the scene claiming it was the first major carbon-neutral airline in the world. Silverjet reservations included a mandatory carbon-offset contribution in the ticket price. But luck ran out quickly; funding for the project fell through by May 2008.

The airline offered direct flights between New York and London before its collapse.

Photo by Cubbie_n_Vegas.

But other European carriers have taken note, including British Airways and Scandinavian Airlines System. Both have implemented voluntary carbon-offset programs so that the choice to offset the footprint of your flight is now a step in the reservation process.

In general, European carriers seem to be taking more initiative to clean up the skies than their U.S. counterparts.

In June 2007, Delta became the first U.S. carrier to offer a voluntary carbon-offset program. The program, GoZero, is hoping to capitalize on the growing market of environmentally-conscious consumers to aid a bottom line that only recently emerged from bankruptcy, in April 2007.

In addition, GoZero provides a useful carbon calculator that can measure the carbon footprint of various lifestyle choices, such as how much we drive, how many kilowatt hours we use per year, or how often we mow the lawn.

Photo by Andrei Dimofte.

So what does all this mean in terms of our own pocketbook? Probably not as much as you would think. According to Delta’s website, “On average a contribution of $5.50 would offset one person’s estimated carbon emissions associated with a 1,320-mile roundtrip flight.”

That means a roundtrip flight from coast to coast in the U.S., roughly 5,600 miles in all, would cost about $13 in addition to the ticket price. That’s not too much to ask.

How do we know where all the money goes? Well, every airline program compensates for its impact differently, but in Delta’s GoZero program, every $5.50 contributed translates to one tree planted in a protected park or national wildlife refuge—a nice answer that gives concrete results.

The Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica. By flying Nature Air, passengers are directly supporting reforestation and conservation of this area. Photo by Spencer Klein.

For those who prefer the do-it-yourself method, websites now allow you to calculate and compensate your personal carbon-footprint. Among them is the well-designed CarbonFootprint.com, which will have you treading lightly in no time.

For your own consideration of what angle to take, search “carbon footprint” on any search engine. The benefit of this method is that you have the choice to decide exactly where your money will go.

One way or the other, it’s a simple choice with a minimal cost—and it can go a long way in keeping airline travel a guiltless method of getting from point A to point B. As travelers and consumers, it’s time to face up to the bill and take real measures to lessen our personal impact.

Responsibility means making real changes by voting with our dollar. Why not begin with that next flight?

Community Connection:

Not all Matador members are convinced that carbon-offset credits are adequate means of reducing travelers’ environmental impact. For alternate opinions, check out “The Truth About Carbon Offsets” and “So what’s the deal with carbon offsets?“

Kehena, Hawaii. Photo by elrentaplats

Hawaii is the most geographically isolated landmass on the planet, and for some that means only one thing: groundswell. Everywhere, in every direction, the currents of the Pacific are churning up the winds, storms, and fetch that ultimately source these islands with their world class waves. Below is a list of the best places to get wet if you have never been to Hawaii.

To be sure, there are far better waves than those listed below, but they are unlistable for various reasons. Take Kauai, for instance; there is nothing more to hide – the world already knows what waves exist, just look at a map, but why then is any photo of Kauai’s best wave still flipped, and never named, when it’s printed in any surf mag? Because respect is a crucial element of the Hawaiian surfing experience; and with reason – the island juice is no myth; ocean conditions here are worlds away from your local beach break.

But still, come surf, it’s Hawaii, the Duke would have wanted you to. For the full rundown of breaks, grab “Frank’s Map” at any surf shop. In no particular order….

Ehukai Beach Park (North Shore, Oahu)

Straight out from the parking lot of the same name, are several shifting peaks that work on everything from a west to a windswell wrap from the east. Sandy bottom is scattered with random fingers of rock. Generally a good place to come if you are beyond a beginner, but still getting used to things. Great place to get the feel of Oahu’s North Shore. Pipeline is immediately to the left, and when it’s big enough, it essentially swallows all the peaks of the beach park. Come here to watch Pipe or sight Tom Curren; across from Sunset Beach Elementary.

Laniakea (North Shore, Oahu)

On a big north, Lani’s is a freight train right that can connect for an extremely long, fast ride, with four or five makeable sections. Deep water wave, but still barrels with the right conditions. Very consistent with any swell that has a bit of north in it; doesn’t work at all on pure west swells. Good place if you’re looking to blend in – the “town” crowd from Honolulu loves this wave, and thus there are always different faces in the water. There is a shorter, hollow left as well, that can be very fun. Seen in the big opening along Kam Hwy as you head east from Hale’iwa. Caution: parking lot thieves run amuck.

Backyards (North Shore, Oahu)

The first time I surfed ‘Yards it went from a playful head high to a widow-making triple-overhead in 40 minutes, and I had to paddle out and around the entire point in a heap of anxiety to get in, so take note. Very fast, advanced wave with a steep wall, thick lip, and shallow reef below. Good barrels. Swell magnet from all directions, but works best on a NW swell. Can get very, very big, and often has less of a crowd than other spots. Further out on the point from Sunset. Access from the shallows at the tip of the point.

Caution: reef, clean up sets.

Sunset (North Shore, Oahu)

Sunset is one of the most fabled right hand points there is, and thus attracts many a soul the world over. In that sense, you can surf it without worry (crowd-wise) if you let your hyper-paddling habits subside. Surely not a wave to be taken lightly though, even at a playful three feet Hawaiian. The wave turns very fast and hollow as it emerges and walls up quick from deep water; famous inside bowl throws way out for a good, heavy barrel.

You need some length and paddling strength in your board here; very thick wave and can be difficult to get into. Prepare yourself to get washed and bashed around on the reef when you see that rogue set swing wide from the west; you’ll certainly be caught inside.

Caution: shallow reef, heavy lip, clean-up sets.

Hookipa (Paia, Maui)

Between Haiku and Paia is Maui’s most consistent wave, or waves, and it happens to double as one of the best windsurfing spots in the world. All the various peaks can be seen from the bluff along the Hana Hwy heading east from Paia. The most hierarchical spot is Pavillions, the right that comes off the far east point; otherwise, there is much range of skill found in the lineups of the other peaks; still, keep respect. Catches everything from the big WNW’s to the easterly windswells. Very exposed to the wind, so get up early before the wind does, and then hit it again late in the afternoon; with Kona winds, you score! Park in the parking lot below the bluff, and follow someone else into the water (and out).

Honolua (North Shore, Maui)

Honolua is one of the magical waves of the world, a flawless right point that seems to peel into infinity – when you happen to catch one. The crowd here is dense, but the joy of one ride makes it all worth it, especially that crisp barrel through the cave section.

Somewhat sheltered from the islands to the north, the swell window here is smaller than most other spots, and thus it works much less often; best on a big NNW swell. The trades that plague most of the rest of Maui, work fine here, to make a consistent side-offshore breeze. Again, when you connect one, the wave is simply magical.

Park on the bluff above, follow someone out.

Velzyland (North Shore, Oahu)

Everything considered, VLand is probably the most risky inclusion on this list. Shallow, extra sharp reef, a heavily localized pack, and a barrel that seems to suck dry, make for a serious North Shore experience. Respect here (for everything) is vital.

This marks the end of the “seven mile miracle,” the opposite end being Haleiwa’s Ali’i Beach Park. Park along Kam Hwy, and walk through the gate at Sunset Beach Colony. Paddle out from directly in front of the peak. The wide open barrel is unreal, but caution: sharp reef, shallow, crowd factor, locals.

Hanalei (North Shore, Kauai)

This is maybe the only wave on Kauai that you are allowed to mention in a public arena. Lucky for us, it’s a great wave, a peeling right point that works on most winter swell directions. Good fun when it’s smaller to grab a longboard and go make friends in the lineup – then you might find out about those other waves around the way. The bay here is pristine, and so is the town by the same name. On the far north east side of the point, towards the Princeville. Can get very big, and very good.

Canoes (South Shore, Oahu)

This is the jumping off point for the Waikiki surf adventure, and the rest of the south shore as well. Every surfer must come at least once, and there are few waves as friendly to teach your new ladyfriend. While generally a friendly wave, this whole shore turns on several times a summer, firing off exceptional waves. Those roadbumps beneath your board are not coral heads – they’re either the innocently ignorant Japanese tourists, or the equally benign, pasty-white Oklahomans.

On the south shore you can surf fifteen different spots in a single session, so paddle around and explore – that’s what the Duke did. Straight out, fittingly, from the Duke Kahanamoku statue in Waikiki. For more juice on this side of the island, seek Bowls, Kaisers, or the wave in between the two, aptly named Inbetweens. Looking out towards Diamond Head, imagine the Hawaiian legend of the wave the Duke caught way out on the point and connected all the way to the sand, right where you get your favorite mai-tai – the restaurant by the name of Duke’s.

***Surf tip of the day: Apply that sunscreen twenty to thirty minutes before you hit the water to preserve the ever-fragile coral reef. Coral really is an animal, not a plant, and it literally suffocates from the sunscreen that leeches off your back! And don’t walk on the reef – you wouldn’t walk on any other animal!

_________________________

Spencer Klein’s ideal place to watch the sunset: “Seen September Sessions? From one of those hollow ones during F Stop Blues in the last section.”

Paia is known as “the biggest little town on Maui,” and with good reason. The small population of 2500 has taken this town a long way. The scenic business district, bordered on one side by the ocean and on the other by the majestic slopes of Haleakala, offers everything you could ever need as a visitor… and it does so with character. What used to be a flourishing sugar cane plantation town has evolved into an array of locally owned, green minded shops, restaurants and businesses — all of which are housed in the old plantation style wooden buildings of the sugar mill era. The buildings have been restored and painted in vibrant new colors, adding bright life to the already pleasant atmosphere. And when the only market in town is a health food store (Mana Foods), you know you’ve got a good thing going. The variety and quality of restaurants is outstanding, and is complimented well by tasteful shops, boutiques and galleries. You might find that friendly service and smiling people are quite common around here — the laid back locals seem to have found peace with the lifestyle they’ve created. Along with the stellar eats and eclectic shopping, there’s a plethora of activities to keep you moving. Bike down thirty-something miles from the crater of Haleakala, windsurf at nearby Ho’okipa, then surf the very same wave, and finally lounge on the white sand at Baldwin Beach Park, all in a day’s time. Everything considered, this place is a virtual blueprint for sustainable living, and it happens to double as one of those rare destinations that might just make you “lose” your plane ticket home.

Practical Info

The heart of Paia is the intersection of the Hana Highway (HWY 36) and Baldwin Avenue. From there, the Hana Hwy runs north 4 miles to Kahului and the airport, and south all the way to Hana and beyond, while Baldwin Ave runs up the slopes of Haleakala a few miles to the town of Makawao. If you’re heading south to Hana, be sure and fill up on gas here — there are no more stations until you actually reach Hana. There’s a Bank of Hawaii with a 24 hr ATM on Baldwin, and the Paia Post Office sits at the top end of Baldwin (toward Makawao). Brighten someone’s day, send a postcard! If you would rather shoot off a few emails 21st century style, you’ll find cheap rates at Livewire Cafe on Hana Hwy.

GREEN EATS

Mana Foods (8:30 AM-8:30 PM/ 7 days a week)

The shelves are well stocked at this healthy minded market with all the essentials and then some. Excellent produce selection. There is also a deli in the back with tasty sandwiches, finger foods, and a good salad bar. Super friendly staff and an extensive info board help Mana double as the vortex for all green living on Maui. Good place to network and get ideas. The store recently made the switch to corn based packaging. Oh, and we have to mention the vegan ice cream machine! Located on Baldwin.

Flatbread (Daily 11AM-11PM)

This upbeat and very hip restaurant bar calls itself the “all natural pizza company” for a reason. Ninety percent of what they use is organic, and the large majority of that is locally sourced on Maui. A wood fired oven in the heart of the restaurant adds authenticity while putting out a superb pizza. Great atmosphere at the bar with locally famous drink specials like the Grapefruit Honey Bourbon and Pomegranate Mojito. Hana Hwy at the base of Baldwin.

Fresh Mint (M-Su 5pm-9pm)

Don’t judge this place by its looks — the flavors will more than make up for any lack of ambiance. With more than forty vegan options of homestyle vietnamese cuisine, the Mint is hard to beat come dinner time. The only real question is which dish to order. The sweet and sour tofu ($9) is as good as it gets, and the pad thai ($7) isn’t far behind. Innovative “mock-meat” dishes make this a great choice for those transitioning to the veg lifestyle or just looking to try something new. All things considered, this might be one of the best oriental meals you ever enjoy. Family owned and operated. Does not serve alcohol. At the top end of Baldwin across from the Post Office.

Cafe Mambo (Daily 8AM-9PM) (808) 579-8021

Halfway up Baldwin, across from the Bank of Hawaii, you’ll find this upbeat, stylish restaurant serving up some tasty international cuisine. The Fajitas ($12) are delicious and can be made with organic Maui tofu. Menu also includes various tapas style plates, sandwiches, burgers, and salads, which are made with “some” local, organic produce. Excellent deals at happy hour (4-6pm weekdays) when the organic beers and wines are served up alongside fajitas and burgers, all for a good penny. Did I mention the tofu fajitas? Breakfast menu offers good veg options, including the Fresh Fruit Cup w/ lilikoi sauce ($4). Picnics available as well.

Milagros (M-Su 8AM-10PM)

With more than two dozen of the worlds finest tequilas, this Margarita bar and Mexican restaurant will have you feeling rosy in no time. The DaKine House Special, made to order with your choice of tequila, triple sec, and fresh squeezed lime juice(!!!) is truly among the best margaritas we have ever enjoyed. Come for happy hour when the price is right, and enjoy the outdoor patio that overlooks the heart of town.

Livewire Cafe (M-Su 6AM-10PM)

Enjoy a hot cup of organic joe and a vegan oatmeal cookie while you get connected in this breezy, yet modern internet cafe. With good tunes and choice views of Haleakala, the prices are reasonable and it’s the only option in town. Also offers wireless for those with laptops. On ocean side of Hana Hwy a few paces south from the intersection with Baldwin.

Moana Bakery & Cafe (Breakfast 8-11 AM, Lunch 11-3 PM, Dinner 3-9 PM)

With nightly live music, vegan soups, and local produce and goods, Moana doesn’t disappoint anyone looking for a sit-down meal. Best vibes are at dinner — check the door to see who’s playing this week. On Baldwin near Mana Foods.

Devocean Juice Bar (M-F 10-6, Sat 10-4)

Groove to the reggae beats as you wait for your 100% organic juice, smoothie or acai bowl. Located on Hana Hwy, next to Livewire Cafe. Check out the stylish goods as you wait to be served.

Hana Bay Juice Co. (M- Su 7:30am- 3:30pm) R

Good breakfast joint for those on the move. All smoothies made with non-fat, non-dairy frozen yogurt. Vegan bagel sandwich ($4) is well worth the good price. Located on Hana Hwy across from intersection with Baldwin.

The Wine Corner (M-W noon-10PM, Th-Su noon-10:30PM)

Excellent selection of organic and vegan beers, wines and spirits. Across from Charley’s on right side of Hana Hwy as you enter town from the south.

ACCOMMODATIONS

The Tropohouse (808) 575-2118

A few miles south of Paia, this bed & breakfast is nestled in a quaint little corner of upcountry. Good variety of rooms ranging from $49-$99 per night plus tax. Boasts a community kitchen, living room, lanai and patio. The place has a good feel, very relaxing with good privacy. Rates include a light breakfast of bagels, organic fruits, coffee and tea. Eco-friendly cleaning.

LOCAL ART

Maui Crafts Guild (M-Su 9AM- 6PM) (808) 579-9697, Gallery 43 Hana Hwy.

At the north end of Paia, you’ll find this very impressive artist owned and operated cooperative gallery. The 21 members of the co-op run every aspect of the Guild all by themselves, and best of all, everything is 100% hand made on Maui.

TRANSPORTATION

www.bio-beetle.com (808) 873-6121

Need some wheels? Now you can scoot around town and feel good about it! These 100% Biodiesel car rentals run on used vegetable oil sourced from local restaurants! It’s hard not to be excited – there’s a lot of driving to be done on Maui.

SUSTAINABLE SHOPPING

Hemp House

Purses, backpacks, flowy clothes and shirts stamped with Bushisms make for a refreshing boutique. Whatever your choice, when you buy hemp products you’re contributing to a growing, sustainable business. On Baldwin.

Sutrov Gallery

Next to The Wine Corner, across from Charley’s you’ll find this eclectic gallery of original Maui art — they only hang local names on the wall!

***There is a recycling center about 2 miles south of Paia on Hana Hwy across from the Haiku Community Center.

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Spencer Klein’s ideal place to watch the sunset: “Seen September Sessions? From one of those hollow ones during F Stop Blues in the last section.”

Molokai from Helicopter Photo by Amelia
Leubscher

Molokai demands kokua, or respect. This is the strongest community I have ever witnessed in all my modest travels of the world. The locals have basically shut down two multi-million dollar resorts on the west side of the island. And they did it all by themselves. They have fought off cruise ships, yachts, group tours, heli-tours, developers, and mainland transplant haoles for over four decades, and now people simply know…you just don’t show up on Molokai. You go there with respect, in small numbers. Tread lightly and you will be welcomed with aloha.

GENERAL INFO

Kaunakakai

What the Molokai ‘ohana call “town” is basically just a couple of blocks along Ala Malama, with some offshoots on side roads. There is no traffic and no traffic lights, and no building in town is taller than a coconut tree.

Kaunakakai has everything you need and it’s the only place that does, so you’ll want to stock up accordingly. Coming from the airport or west side, take a left onto Ala Malama (at the Chevron on the corner). It’s pretty hard to miss considering the rural backdrop you’ll see along the way. If you’re coming over on the ferry, just follow the wharf road straight and it will turn into Ala Malama. The walk from the wharf, assuming you want to avoid the sky-high taxi fares, will take about fifteen minutes.

American Savings Bank and Bank of Hawaii are right next to each other at the beginning of town. Both have a 24hr ATM. To get back in touch with the cyberworld, hit up Stanley’s Coffee House and Gallery at the far end of town for the fastest internet access on the island; there is also WIFI at Outpost Natural Foods for a suggested donation of $1. Not a bad price and it serves to support the island’s only health food establishment! The Molokai Public Library also has a few computers with internet access, as well as several local and national newspapers. Be sure to check the locals for info on upcoming events, activities, etc. There is a Post Office in town right on Ala Malama, and the Molokai General Hospital is located off the main drag in the far part of town, just follow the blue signs.

Camping: it will be helpful to stop by the Deptartment of Parks & Recreation in the Mitchell Pauole Center on the corner of Ala Malama and Ainoa St., adjacent to the baseball fields. The MP Center is a full service recreation facility that features a gym, indoor swimming pool, two tennis courts, and a noteworthy skate park. Also check the uber-helpful Molokai Visitors Association on the corner of Kamoi St. and the main highway on the southeastern edge of town.

Leaving town, take a left off Ala Malama onto Kamehameha V (HWY 450) to head east, or a right onto the Maunaloa Hwy (HWY 460) to head west (towards the airport). HWY 450 and HWY 460 are essentially the same road, the name just changes at Kaunakakai. Mile markers are helpful reference points on Molokai, with Kaunakaki representing mile 0 and the mile markers ascending as you leave town in either direction. If the interisland ferry beckons, just head straight through the intersection of Ala Malama and the main highway and take the wharf road all the way to the end. The Molokai Princess should be waiting…

GREEN MARKETS & RESTAURANTS

Outpost Natural Foods & Deli

Outpost is the classic example of doing the best with what you’ve got. In an older building on Makaena Pl., next to the unnamed gas station, you will find a good selection of all the staples you’ll need to stock up on (including bulk), plus a few treats you might not be expecting. The assortment of seasonal organic fruits and veggies is impressive considering the process it takes to get them here. There’s cold drinks — even Kombucha! — and a frozen section with a surprising variety of vegan goodies. One look around town and it won’t take long to realize this is the only health food establishment on the island, and the only place consistently selling organic produce. Great deals on seasonal produce are frequent. In the back you’ll find your island salvation if you eat veg, in the form of a deli. The daily lunch special ($6, served 11-3) is usually down-right delicious, and it’s served up in very generous portions. Don’t forget, wireless internet is available for a suggested donation of $1 — just pull your car up next to the store and whip out the laptop… drop your recyclables here too!

Farmer’s Market (Sa 6am – noon)

Every Saturday morning, rain or shine, Molokai’s farmers gather along Ala Malama Ave. to offer up their goods. There’s no better way to support green living than buying directly from the farmers –especially in a community this small. Be sure to ask if the produce is organic and get there early for the best selection. Local artists and artisans set up shop too.

Friendly Market

Right in the middle of town, this is easily the largest grocery store on the island, and thus the cheapest place to shop. There is a small health food section, and they offer an organic wine beer options. The frozen section has some gardenburgers and the like. Most importantly, stock up on water here (especially if you’re camping) because water prices elsewhere are pretty high. Some organic produce.

Stanley’s Coffee Shop & Gallery

This is bound to be your place of morning refuge if you’re a coffee drinker, and you most likely won’t be disappointed. The lattes ($3) and coffees ($2) are excellent, and there’s a host of fresh baked goodies, bagels, and breakfast plates. Decent vegetarian options, but not too much in the way of dairy-free goods. Bring your own soy. Pleasant environment provides a good arena to strike up conversations with the locals.

SUSTAINABLE ARTS

Molokai Artists & Crafters Guild (553-8018)

Located above American Savings Bank on Ala Malama, this tasteful gallery and gift shop only displays the best works of the best artists on the island. It was created to fill the need of Molokai’s artists who previously had no place to display or sell their work – that means more support for the local economy. Ask one of the artists to show you around, he or she will be happy to let you in on the story behind each work of art.

SEE THE SIGHTS

On the south side of the main highway Ala Malama turns into Kaunakakai Pl. (also known as the wharf road), which leads out to the Kaunakakai Wharf. Besides the wonderful views, the wharf is a great place to get a feel for the lifestyle of Molokai’s residents. You will find fishermen cruising the 150 yard pier at virtually all hours of the day, and families enjoying a dip in the calm waters on the west side. If you want to chill out Molokai-style, break out a few a chairs, a cooler, and kick back to the trades blowing through the Pailolo channel. Maui and Lanai are the two islands you will see just across the way. Undoubtedly, the best time of year at the wharf is during the outrigger canoe races of June and July. Show up on Saturday mornings (when they’re typically held) and you’ll find a few more coolers than normal, with rowdy fans, concession stands, and plenty of fun for all ages.

The wharf is also home to a twenty year-old fishing cooperative, the Molokai Ice House, and at the end lies the port of call for the inter-island ferry, the Molokai Princess. Right before the wharf begins, on the west side, you will (hardly) see the remains of King Kamehameha V’s vacation home. It’s nothing more than a pile of stone rubble, and nothing to stop for, but it’s a good bit of history for the rest of the bunch in the car. More King Kamehaha V history is just down the road a mile west of town, where you will see the 10 acre Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove, planted by the King to provide shade for visiting royalty. Wear a helmet if you plan to stroll through the grove.

PILLOWS & STARS & DREAMS

One Ali’i Beach Park

Pronounced oh-nay ah-lee-ee, this beach park is actually two parks right next to each other on the ocean side of Kam V Hwy around the 3 mi. marker. Only the easternmost park (One Ali’i I) is designated for camping, and the facilities are simple with bathrooms and showers. This place will do the trick if you’re not looking for much (or need to catch the early ferry), but there is relatively no privacy or shade and the park is frequently used by local families for large parties and gatherings. The parties, of course, can be a plus or minus depending on your mood and willingness to join the crowd, but be prepared to hit the pillow to the sound of music. Parties are more frequent on weekends. The swimming right out front is very poor with shallow, muddy water. Permits ($3/nt per camper) are required and there is a 3 night max.

ORIENTATE & OUTFIT

If you think the other islands are too “planned” with cookie-cutter itineraries, safe eco-tours and the sort, you’re definitely in for a treat here. Ask five people whether or not you can make the hike back to Moaula Falls from Halawa Valley without a guide, and you’re likely to get five different answers. One might say “Sure, bruddah, no sweat,” and another might imply you’re asking for “lickins.” Trust us, you don’t want lickins, so we highly recommend you heed our advice, and even more so, the advice of the local outfitters. We did our research well, but some things have undoubtedly changed since that time. That said, out of respect for the locals as well as your own well being, it’s best to confirm everything with the locals.

Friendly Market

On a similar note, it might seem unappealing or discouraging to have to pay for guides, permits, or tours, but keep in mind these are the very things that keep Molokai afloat. Unemployment rates are extremely high on the island and the average per capita income is considerably lower than on the other major islands. So consider that camping permit or guided tour your chance to contribute to an island community that is fighting hard to maintain its character and integrity. These considerations shouldn’t discourage any visitor; there is, in fact, a plethora of raw, unguided adventure awaiting everyone who comes to Molokai. For adventure of any sort, these are the best guides, outfitters, and compasses on the island, and most happen to be in or around town — in no particular order…

Molokai Visitor’s Association (www.molokai-hawaii.com, M-F 8am-4:30pm, 553-5221)

On the corner of Kamoi St. and the main highway. Good info on everything that does seem a bit “packaged,” and decent info on less commercial adventures. Offers a library of brochures. Can help lead you to “green” vacation rentals as well! If you’ve never been to the island, we recommend stopping by.

Molokai Outdoors (553-4477, M-Sa 8-5, Su 8-4)

Located in the lobby of Hotel Molokai, this is our choice for the island’s best outfitter. Offers everything you could want or need to rent at hourly, daily, and weekly rates. Good info on the tricky activities like the hike from Halawa Valley, and tours to the Kalaupapa Peninsula. Full-day and half-day guided tours are available for good prices.

Molokai Fish & Dive (552-0184)

Offers a host of rentals for every outdoor activity you could imagine at decent prices. Employs several activity guides who can lead you on packaged and customized tours of the island — surf lessons, kayak tours, horseback rides, hikes, bike tours — you name it.

Molokai Surf (558-8943)

Surf shop a half mile west of town with all the standard goods. If you’re in search of waves, let owner and longtime Molokai resident, Jerry Leonard, point you in the right direction.

WEST SIDE

BEACHES

The west side beaches of Molokai are some of the most beautiful in all the islands and for the most part they remain completely deserted. Many of the beaches here would be absolutely mobbed if they were on any other island, so cherish the fact that your footprints might be the only ones you see. That said, it seems only fair to continue with the traditional obscurity in describing the region. As for the landmark beaches that have already been revealed…

Almost 3 miles in length, Papohaku Beach ranks as the longest and largest beach in all of Hawaii. The golden sand seems to stretch forever, paving the way for one of those magical, uninterrupted barefoot strolls we all dream of. Despite its beauty and the vast amount of coastline it covers, you’re still likely to see only a handful of people on the entire beach, and at times, you may walk the full stretch without seeing another soul. There are four access points to Papohaku — the main one is through the Papohaku Beach Campground, a very nice, well shaded campground with good facilities. For those looking to get away from it all, PBC is easily the best campground on the island, and a surefire candidate for the best campground in all of Hawaii.

Tips
As the trade winds pick up throughout the day, violent sandstorms become quite common and unless you’re on the north end of the beach protected by the rocky point, you can well expect a blasting. Another drawback is the lack of shade, and it’s always sunny on the leeward side. Finally, the waters here are known for exceptionally strong currents and undertow. Unless you are a confident surfer or waterman (there are breaks all up and down the beach on W and N swells), it would be best to exercise extreme caution when taking a dip. Winter swimming conditions are locally described as “treacherous.”

Beyond the point marking the south end of Papohaku Beach there are several beach access points with beautiful views, beautiful beaches, and pleasant settings. Many are too rocky for swimming, but remain ideal for the secluded sunset or stargazing you’re after. Follow the road south from the campground all the way to the end, and you will stumble upon Dixie Maru, named for an old ship that sunk off the coast years ago. The setting here is sublime. There are two rocky points that protect the golden sand cove and harbor its beautiful turquoise waters from the elements. The swimming here is excellent on a calm day, offering the best snorkeling on the west side, and when the waves are up, there are good point breaks on both sides. Explore around the south point, see what you find.

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Spencer Klein’s ideal place to watch the sunset: “Seen September Sessions? From one of those hollow ones during F Stop Blues in the last section.”