the traveler's notebook » Hal Amen

Cuzco, Peru By the Numbers

Hal Amen — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 16:35:36 +0000

All photos: author

Matador Trips editor Hal Amen takes a look back at a month spent in the tourist capital of Peru.

Days in the city: 30

Sick days: 1

Days it rained during the dry season: 8

“Inca massage” offers: at least 200

“Inca massage” offers accepted: 0

Times I changed my mind on whether I liked “Cuzco” or “Cusco” better: 2

Plates of delicious ceviche eaten: 6

Plates of non-delicious ceviche eaten: 0

Guinea pigs eaten: ½

2-for-1 pisco sours consumed: ummmm…?

Random parades seen in the Plaza de Armas: 12

Times I was called “amigo” by a stranger: 300+

Hours spent in Spanish classes: 60

Spanish gaffes despite hours spent in Spanish classes: Don’t wanna know

Times I was led to a fire extinguisher (extintor) shop when trying to buy an extension cord (extensor): 1

Taxis taken: 0

Times I turned down a taxi due to my friends’ getting taxi-kidnapped in Arequipa: 5

Pictures taken of the famous 12-angled Inca stone: 0

Pictures taken of people taking pictures of the famous 12-angled Inca stone: 1

Times I wished my hostel’s advertised wifi was actually wifi: 60

Times I considered moving to a different hostel: 60

Hours spent in Norton’s Tavern uploading Matador articles: nearly infinite

Excellent vistas of the city enjoyed from the heights of San Blas: 30

Giant pigs heads I gawked at at Mercado San Pedro: 5

Plates of ¼ chicken and fries ordered from the guy on Choquechaca: 3

Tamales picantes purchased from the incognito lady outside Gato’s Market: 10

Jogs up the Cuesta San Blas in a desperate attempt to get some exercise: 15

Oral advertisements heard for the “Psychedelic Times: Summer Edition”: 7

Times I was offered weed in San Blas: 3

Dogs seen doing it: 30

Community Connection

For more travel by the numbers, check out this Notebook archives page.

Hiking the Chacaltaya Glacier: Global Climate Change Firsthand

Hal Amen — Tue, 12 May 2009 13:37:19 +0000

All photos: a song under the sugar sugar

As Hal finds out, not all questions get answered on the $10 tour.

The two tassels of my llama-wool hat are blowing wildly across my face, caught in the wind as it whips at us here on the exposed western slopes of Chacaltaya, Bolivia.

Juan, our guide, is darting up and down the line, ensuring both the speeders and the stragglers get to hear his fact-filled script about the glacier that runs upslope parallel to our rocky trail.

“It’s one of the highest in the world,” he points, patiently waiting for me to throw a glance in the direction of the glacier before he zips off to the next hiker.

Sure, puffing foggy breath at 17,700 feet, gazing down the snowy spine of the Cordillera Real, is exhilarating. But I’ve come to see the glacier.

I stumble, missing a step. A little lightheadedness is all. Maybe I should’ve eaten more for breakfast. And there’s the elevation, of course. I shake my tassels to clear my head. That’s better.

Mild dizziness aside, summiting is a cakewalk. Miners do it—the upper plateaus are littered with ore buckets and little lake-lets are stained blood-red from iron and green from copper.

Die-hard skiers do it. Chacaltaya has held the record of world’s highest ski resort since 1939, when Club Andino Boliviano built an access road, small lodge, and rope-tow lift up the glacier.

And tourists do it. They come in secondhand Asian minibuses that puff black smoke almost as thick as the dust kicked up on the dirt road leading from El Alto. The tour is part of the standard fare hawked in the La Paz traveler’s ghetto of Calle Sagárnaga.

“An easy way to bag a high peak,” reads Lonely Planet’s description. Buses shuttle you to the lodge at 17,300 ft. It’s a simple 30-minute walk from there to the summit.

“Bagging peaks” isn’t why I’m here, though. Sure, puffing foggy breath at 17,700, gazing down the snowy spine of the Cordillera Real and the tops of the clouds covering the rainforest, is exhilarating. But I’ve come to see the glacier.

It’s not what you’d expect—no frozen river winding through a wide mountain pass. Only a thin tongue of powder, long enough maybe for four or five tight turns on your K2s.

Fact is, Chacaltaya is dying. By some accounts, it’s already dead. Like most of the world’s rare tropical glaciers, its growth has failed to keep pace with global climate change.

It’s easy to find accounts of the loss of the world’s highest ski run. People now only come to carve in February, and even then just to say they’ve done it. The rope tow—or what’s left of it—hasn’t worked in a few years. The lodge gives off a Shining vibe.

But what you won’t hear as much about is that Chacaltaya’s glacier is vital to the roughly 1 million inhabitants of El Alto—none of which, I’d reckon, has ever clicked into a ski.

“It’s their only source of water,” Juan tells me as I stand shivering at the summit, taking in the smoggy sprawl of El Alto on the Altiplano far below.

La Paz’s satellite city is growing faster than the glacier is shrinking, coughing up more and more red-brick and adobe huts as campesinos flood in from the countryside, lured by the promise of employment and cheap housing.

“So…when the glacier’s gone, what happens to El Alto?”

I don’t get a straight answer. He tells me about government efforts to promote conservation and responsible use. Seems too late for that, I refrain from saying.

I look across to the peak-perfect form of Wayna Potosí, one of the Cordillera’s most recognizable mountains. Its flanks are thick with snowpack for a good 3,000 feet down from the top.

Is that what Chacaltaya looked like just 60 years ago? Will it look like Chacaltaya in another 30?

These are questions that don’t get answered on the $10 tour.

“Two more minutes, then back to the bus,” he shouts to us over the wind. My tassels nod in acknowledgment.

Community Connection:

For more on the world’s vanishing glaciers, be sure to check out this photo essay on Matador Change.

Want to learn the craft of travel writing?

10 Reasons to Travel with Your Parents as an Adult

Hal Amen — Fri, 02 Jan 2009 16:22:45 +0000

Photo courtesy editor b

1. Payback for those family vacations…

…the good kind of payback, of course. You have a lot to thank your parents for, even if they didn’t take you on that proverbial road trip to Disney World in the family minivan.

If you have the means, footing the bill for a vacation with your folks is a great way to show your gratitude. If not, try shouldering the responsibility of crafting and executing the itinerary, while letting your parents kick back and enjoy themselves.

2. Share yourself.

Are you a serial traveler? Then you probably don’t see your parents too frequently. This is your opportunity to help them understand your passion for travel and why you’re often so far from home. Allow them to share more fully in the person you’ve grown up to become.

3. Rediscover the ‘rents.

Likewise, it may have been decades since you lived under the same roof as your parents. Much has changed since then, and what better way to be forced into finding out what makes your folks tick these days than to travel with them?

Photo courtesy roblisameehan

4. Show off.

Admit it—it’s good to get affirmation from your two original authority figures. Jetting off to far-flung lands with your parents sets the stage for you to demonstrate mastery of another language, kung-fu packing techniques, and any other skills you’ve acquired through your travels. Prepare to bask in Mom’s and Dad’s oohs and aahs.

5. Strength in numbers.

Exploration on the road is easier with a little support. You’ll be more likely to pop into that intimidating cantina or take a spontaneous dance lesson when you’re with people you trust and feel comfortable around.

Alternatively, if your parents are experiencing anxiety about a certain travel activity, you may find strength in providing a steady hand and convincing them to take the leap.

6. Expand the story base.

Shift the parent-child relationship from the past into the present and future. No longer will family conversations lean on the crutch of rehashed childhood experiences; a shared excursion will give you new stories to draw from.

Regardless of what happens on the trip, the banter at the next holiday gathering will likely be a lot livelier.

7. Maturity by osmosis.

Maybe you’re the kind of traveler who spends nights boozing it up with the hostel crowd and days sleeping it off. Well, here’s your chance to partake in other facets of travel.

Accompany the folks to that history museum they’re set on, or research a one-of-a-kind attraction that appeals to their particular interests. Who knows what you’ve been missing?

8. Escape the stress.

The settings of family get-togethers are rarely described as stress-free. They’re usually at a relative’s home, where host-guest relations can create tension. On the road, no one’s responsible for entertaining, catering, cleaning up, or any of the other sticking points that can ruin time with family.

9. A different perspective.

Your parents probably aren’t your normal travel companions. What revelations might they be able to prompt regarding your traveling style—where you go, what you like to do, how deep you delve—that you wouldn’t have come to on your own? Shake it up!

Photo courtesy hithro

10. The perfect Christmas card shot.

Are your folks constantly searching for the ideal spot for a family Christmas card photo, one that will make the aunts and uncles green with envy? What could be more picturesque than the white-sand Hawaiian beach a stone’s throw from the hotel suite you scored? Engineer the perfect shot and they’ll be thanking you for years.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

For more on the ups and downs of travel and family, check out What Every Parent Should Know About Traveling With Their Kids, or Why I Disobeyed My Family and Traveled the World.

Geocaching 101: Introduction to a 21st Century Sport

Hal Amen — Sat, 27 Dec 2008 17:55:02 +0000

Photo courtesy lollyknit

Geocaching couldn’t exist without the cutting-edge, satellite-based positioning technology that is GPS. But at the same time, it’s centered on an activity as old as our species: exploratory walking.

Late fall bites at my skin. I’m a mile from the nearest house, but the air is so crisp I can smell wood smoke drifting from the outskirts of town.

Though a long-time area resident, I’ve never had reason to explore this tract of woods until now. A shame, because the modest elevation gain, the bare tree limbs, and the early autumn sunset along the horizon make for a beautiful landscape.

Soft beeps begin to emanate from the GPS receiver clutched in my gloved hand. “Arriving at destination,” the display reads. Following the compass arrow, I navigate the last 40 feet across a small clearing and over a dry stream bed to the coordinates of the cache.

It takes only seconds to sift through the crackling leaves, displace a couple stones, and the treasure hunt is over. There it is, a rectangular Tupperware container sealed tight against the elements. Popping the top, I’m greeted with the now-familiar note: “Congratulations, you’ve found a geocache!”

History

In early May of 2000, the Global Positioning System (GPS) was in essence “declassified” by the U.S. military, making it available for public use. The following day, a man in Oregon decided to test the accuracy of this new tool.

Dave Ulmer hid a small container of items—books, videos, and a slingshot—in the woods near his home. He recorded the latitude-longitude coordinates of its location with his hand-held GPS receiver and posted them to an Internet newsgroup, inviting others to try and find his “cache.”

In a matter of days, GPS enthusiasts had taken up the challenge, logging the results of their treasure hunts online. This was the spontaneous and creative birth of geocaching.

Since then, the activity has become an international sensation. The official website, geocaching.com, lists nearly 700,000 caches hidden in more than 100 countries on all seven continents.

Basics

Most caches include a stash of inexpensive, harmless items, along with a logbook. When you find the cache, you’re allowed to take an item as long as you replace it with something of your own. In addition, you’re asked to log your visit in the book.

Photo courtesy Dave ® (was: Buck!)

Some caches, especially those hidden in busy urban areas, are so small they contain nothing more than a tiny roll of paper for logging.

A database of the world’s caches is maintained at the website mentioned above.

Getting Started

Unlike many other outdoor activities, geocaching start-up costs don’t necessitate loads of disposable income. It’s likely that the only piece of equipment prospective cachers will have to purchase is a GPS receiver.

Entry-level units go for as low as $50, with accuracy and special features increasing with price.

In addition to a GPS, you’ll need a computer with an Internet connection. Create a free account on the geocaching website in order to access cache coordinates. Next, select a cache near you and input its coordinates into your GPS.

Photo courtesy shroomazoom

Take note of any clues or other information provided by the hider, which may come in handy during your search. Also, check to make sure others have found the cache recently. Sometimes caches are damaged or lost and the hider neglects to update the listing accordingly.

Step-by-step instructions, guidelines for beginners, and a glossary of terms are also available on the website.

Don’t forget to share your experience with the community—did you find it? what did you think?—once you return.

Implications

Some may view geocaching as a mere recreational oddity, a quirky hobby riding a fad wave. But look deeper and you’ll see the phenomenon has profound insights to offer—on the modern intersection of nature and technology, the potential of virtual communities, and the future of exploration.

This merger of old and new, high- and low-tech, is significant. It has the potential to expand horizons, sending techies out on forest hikes and introducing nature lovers to a beneficial technology. More abstractly, it suggests a model by which high technology and the natural world can coexist.

Geocaching is also a testament to the positive power of virtual, grassroots communities. Out of the simple desire to have fun, a handful of people produced something that’s now enriching the lives of countless others.

Photo courtesy shroomazoom

In doing so, they’ve given new meaning to a technology originally designed to help wage war more efficiently, steeped in the all-too-sinister prospect of global surveillance. If that’s not evidence of the creative potential of the Internet, I’m not sure what is.

And perhaps most importantly, geocaching redefines our understanding of place. For many, the sport is less about the act of locating a hidden object as it is about discovering a heretofore overlooked locale.

Most caches aren’t hidden in arbitrary places. The chosen location is special to the hider somehow, and more often than not the cache listing will include a personal anecdote or historical exposition introducing a backstory to the cacher’s destination.

Otherwise mundane locales are given unique value, embellished with meaning, forever transformed.

As the world grows smaller, as we run out of new places to explore, we need to learn to see ordinary places in a different light—in effect, to recycle a place and discover it all over again. Geocaching offers such an opportunity.

Community Connection

Do you participate in geocaching? Is your interest piqued? Share your thoughts below!

Interesting in getting started? Check out our picks and recommendations for 5 Hand-held GPS Receivers.

12 Things You Don’t Want to Be Caught Doing in Foreign Lands

Hal Amen — Thu, 11 Dec 2008 19:11:52 +0000

Feature photo by _MaO_. Photo above by Tomas flickr.

You definitely don’t want to be caught breaking these rules when you’re a visitor.

We all know the old adage: “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.” But in some countries, it’s even more important NOT to do what the Romans AREN’T doing.

Disparaging the royal family in Thailand

Thailand takes its monarchy very seriously, to the extent that insulting the king or royal family, verbally or otherwise, carries a high price.

Just ask Oliver Jufer, a 57-year-old Swiss expat who ran afoul of the lèse majesté law when he defaced portraits of King Bhumibol Adulyadej after a few too many Beer Changs. A Thai court handed him 10 years in jail (out of a possible 75), but his sentence was later commuted by the same king he had affronted.

Showing affection in Dubai

Technically, it’s illegal to hold hands in public in this Emirati tourist hotspot. Try rounding all the bases, as two British beachgoers did in July of this year, and you could find yourself in court at the epicenter of a culture war.

Smoking in Bhutan

Simply bringing tobacco into this tiny Himalayan country is costly—you’ll pay a 100% tax at customs. Smoke in public and you’ll be out $225 more. But if for some reason you’re caught selling tobacco products…that might just land you in a Bhutanese prison on smuggling charges.

Photo by g-hat.

Tagging in Singapore

Among the long list of legally defined no-no’s in this tiny island nation—littering, jaywalking, and leaving a toilet unflushed, for example—is graffiti vandalism. Remember Michael Fay, the 18-year-old American who pled guilty to spray painting cars in Singapore? Then you probably also remember that he was jailed, fined, and given four strokes of the cane for his crime.

Romancing a local in Iran

Iranian law makes it illegal for non-Muslim men to maintain relationships with Muslim women. (Don’t get too excited, all you non-Muslim ladies out there—I’m sure it works the other way, too!) Though rare, arrests of Westerners on this charge are not unheard of, and it’s doubtful that an Iranian jail cell would be your first choice of where to spend the next few years of your life.

Carrying a firearm in El Salvador

To curb gun violence, this Central American nation has strict licensing requirements for firearms. Several tourists have been detained for allegedly violating these regulations, despite at first being led to believe they had obtained all the documents necessary to carry their gun in the country. Moral of the story: leave the weapons at home. Years-long prison terms await offenders.

Photo by Azizul Ameir.

Running drugs in Indonesia

You have to be pretty dumb to dabble in drug smuggling abroad, but even dumber to do so here. While many countries enforce tough drug laws, Indonesia’s are some of the toughest, calling for death by firing squad for those convicted of this crime, regardless of their country of origin.

Slaughtering a cow in India

Though it’s a misconception that “Hindus worship cows,” bovine slaughter is indeed illegal in a number of Indian states. In fact, protection of the animal is enshrined in the country’s constitution. Few perpetrators are actually punished, but the law allows for a hefty fine and imprisonment for up to five years. Just in case you were planning to open a slaughterhouse here, consider yourself warned.

Naming a teddy bear “Muhammad” in Sudan

Teacher Gillian Gibbons found this out the hard way when she allowed her Sudanese students to name the class teddy bear. They chose “Muhammad,” and she went to jail, charged with inciting religious hatred. Though the court spared her the prescribed 40 lashes, she spent eight tense days in custody before being released. Obviously, decrees governing insults to Islam in Sudan are no laughing matter.

Trafficking in cultural antiquities in Turkey

So you’ve found the perfect Turkish souvenir to take home and impress friends and family. But do you know the whole story? If your souvenir falls into the broad category of “antiquity” as defined by the Turkish legal system, and you lack the proper documentation for its possession, your departure from the country may be delayed while you become familiar with the inside of a Turkish prison cell.

Photo by WaveCult (luis.m.justino).

Taking a nip in Saudi Arabia

Officially, it’s against the law to consume alcohol in Saudi Arabia. Period. In reality, expats who live in certain areas are allowed to bend the rule, as long as they do it quietly behind closed doors. But for those who like to play it safe (or are looking for the perfect excuse to kick the booze habit), it’s best to go without. The alternative could be a public lashing.

Breaking and entering in the U.S.

Okay, okay. You don’t want to do this anywhere, and if you do, you deserve whatever punishment you get. But try it in the U.S., where as many as 50% of homeowners keep a gun in the house, and your fate might be decided well before the cops show up.

Community Connection:

Local etiquette varies from place to place, but some things are universal: check out Brave New Traveler’s 7 Ways To Thank Someone For Staying At Their Home.

How to Choose a Touring Bicycle

Hal Amen — Sat, 06 Dec 2008 15:22:52 +0000

Photo by mtsofan

Adventurers have circled the Earth on all manner of bicycles. Joff Summerfield is currently on this third attempt to tour the world by penny farthing. Matador’s own Tim Patterson prefers to pedal a folding bike with 20-inch wheels, rucksack strapped to the back.

While acknowledging that the possibilities are endless, what follows is a summary of conventional wisdom for selecting a touring bicycle:

Models

Most bikes can be very roughly divided into two groups: mountain and road. Mountain bikes are built for all-terrain riding, road bikes for just that—the road.

Mountain: general, it’s easier to outfit mountain bikes for touring. They encourage a more comfortable upright riding posture, accommodate thick tires, come with low gearing for sweating up hills, and better withstand abuse.

Tourers in areas lacking paved roads prefer mountain bikes. In addition to their overall ruggedness, most mountain bikes have front-suspension forks to eat up the shock of bumpy terrain.

Road bikes are designed to be speedy and agile. They only fit skinny tires and are not constructed to bear the weight of a touring load. In addition, stock gears on road bikes are too high for many tourers.

For those seriously interested in cycle touring, it’s worth looking into some dedicated touring models. These combine features of both mountain and road bikes, along with others specially created for the task of touring.

Like mountain bikes, touring-specific models fit larger tires and fenders, sit riders more upright, and are built to withstand the rough and tumble. Like road bikes, they often come with drop handlebars to increase hand-position options and have no front suspension.

Unfortunately, these bikes are much harder to find than their more popular cousins, especially in the U.S., where touring has yet to take off. Trek’s 520 and Cannondale’s T1/T2 are the two best-known touring-specific models in the Western Hemisphere.

photo by magical-world

Material

For touring, your two options will be steel or aluminum. Titanium may occasionally crop up—most frequently in tandems and recumbents—but use of this ultra-durable, light-weight metal will spike the cost.

High-end road bikes feature carbon-fiber frames to lessen their weight. This material is unsuitable for touring, as it’s weaker than metal and could crumple under the heft of rack and panniers.

The steel vs. aluminum debate is a heated one among tourers. While steel is heavier and susceptible to rust, popular opinion says it makes for a smoother ride. Sheldon Brown does a good job of debunking this assertion, but according to a poll on crazyguyonabike.com, 79% of tourers prefer steel frames.

Geometry

When it comes to comfort, a frame’s geometry is probably more important than its material. Geometry refers to the ratios between the different tube lengths that make up the frame.

Touring-specific frames have a longer wheelbase; the linear distance between the two wheels is greater than that of traditional bikes. Longer chainstays and a raked fork make this possible, with the results being greater stability and comfort.

photo by cincinnato

Another thing to look for in a frame is wheel clearance. You want enough room for at least a 32mm tire (probably a 35 or bigger), plus a fender.

As with any bike, it’s important to get a frame that fits you correctly. Browse the endless theories on the issue here, or simply ask a professional.

Touring Frame Features

A touring bike has to perform—handle well under load, support rear and front racks and panniers, and possess a drivetrain you can rely on day after day.

You know a bicycle was designed with touring in mind if it has eyelets (threaded holes) on the rear dropouts, seat stays, and fork. These represent the easiest way to mount rear and front racks onto the bike. The installation of most fenders also requires special eyelets in the frame.

If your dream bike is missing the eyelets, don’t despair. Mountain bikes with front suspension, for example, aren’t going to have eyelets in the fork. There are ways to get around this, such as clamp-on racks or those that run a support skewer through the wheel axle. Alternatively, you could pull a trailer instead of mounting panniers.

Another nice touch to look for is an extra pair of eyelets on the down tube for a third water bottle cage.

Wheels

The weight of your entire touring setup is going to rest on your bicycle’s two wheels. They must be able to shoulder the load.

Again, you’ll likely be presented with two choices: 26-inch wheels (the standard for mountain bikes and most bicycles around the world) or the slightly larger 700c (common on road bikes). The former are by physical definition stronger, and tires for them will be in stock worldwide.

More important for strength, however, are the quality of rim construction and the number of spokes. Dedicated-touring models should feature at least 36 spokes per wheel, four more than an average bicycle.

photo by magical-world

Components

Generally, tourers like a gear ratio closer to that of a mountain bike than a road bike. In other words, they want a fuller range of slow-speed options when grinding up a steep incline.

Unfortunately, many touring-specific models come stocked with road-bike cranksets. If yours does, and you want to swap it out, do so before the purchase. Bike shops will often exchange components for free to close a sale; after the deal is done, you’ll have to buy any new parts yourself.

Touring necessitates strong brakes that can effectively slow the heavy weight of a loaded bike. Cantilever brakes, such as those on most mountain bikes, are your best bet, the V-brake system being most common.

Overall, a good rule of thumb is to keep it simple. Opt for the tried and true component over the flashy trial model. Complex shifting, suspension, and braking systems will be more difficult to repair on the fly.

On the road, reliability is priceless.

Manufacturer

Racks, panniers, front and rear fenders, cantilever brakes, strong tires, plenty of gears, and even a front suspension are a few of the essentials that can make a bike a dedicated touring machine. Photo by vikapproved

Whoever builds your bike, you want their reputation to be solid. But even here you have options.

Brand name: Bikes sold by the big boys come with a proven track record and, hopefully, a lower price tag. In addition to Trek and Cannondale, Fuji and REI make popular touring models.

But because bigger corporations cater to the center of a large demographic, your precise needs as a tourer might not be fully addressed. Remember to factor any costs for new accessories into the price of the bike.

Custom builder: Nothing could be sweeter than sporting your very own custom-built touring machine. Have the frame constructed to fit your body, then add components as you like. You’ll pay more, but you’ll get more.

Waterford, Rivendell, and Bruce Gordon are a few well-known names in custom building.

Accessories

Saddles, tires, racks…these are important elements of your touring rig as well. However, most manufacturers assume you’re going to change them out to suit personal preference, so stock accessories are often of lesser quality than the bike. It’s easy to mix and match once you’ve found the ride that’s right for you.

Community Connection

For an in-depth purchasing guide to the makers and manufacturers of various bikes and components, check out Bicycle Touring: a Solid Setup.

And for a little inspiration, check out Matador contributing editor Tim Patterson’s blogs about his own bicycle touring adventures: give Crossing the Chic Choc Mountains or The Blue Side of Lonely a read.

Also be sure to check out Hal’s 8 Steps for Successful Self-Supported Bicycle Tours.

How to Take the Bus in London

Hal Amen — Mon, 10 Nov 2008 13:50:47 +0000

Feature photo by Route79. Photo above by litlnemo.

The bus is a great alternative to the underground in London. You just have to know how to best use it.

Strands of red lanterns crisscross the narrow alleys of Chinatown. Neon lights proclaim the latest offerings of historic West End theatres. Camden Market stalls overflow with exotic foods and fashions.

Alas, you don’t see any of this. You’re buried deep underground in the tube.

A better world waits on the surface! Those iconic double-deckers plying the picturesque avenues aren’t there simply to spice up your vacation photos. Becoming familiar with these functional and accessible vehicles is a must for the savvy London visitor.

Save Some Quid

Taking the bus is tip #1 on Eva Holland’s list of tips to enjoy London on $100 a day…and with good reason.

You could pay as much as £4 for a tube ride in Central London. Opting for a bus will cut this by half, if not more.

Though operated by multiple private firms, all of London’s 8,000 buses sport the fire-red color scheme and follow the same flat-fare system. Paying cash for a single journey costs £2, regardless of distance traveled.

Think that’s still pretty steep? £3.50 lands you an all-day ticket, and Bus Saver packs of 6 tickets (available at street-side newsstands) sell for just £6.

Photo by Mirka23.

Go Oyster

To further expand the savings, pick up an Oyster card. Introduced in 2004, these electronic stored-value passes work on all manner of London transport and provide hefty discounts. Flat bus fare for Oyster users is £0.90.

What’s more, with the Oyster daily price capping system, you’ll never pay more than £3 per 24 hours.

Cards are available online, at most tube stations, and at dedicated shops throughout the city. A refundable £3 deposit is collected for all pay-as-you-go cards.

To avoid the deposit, long-term users may choose to purchase weekly, monthly, or yearly plans for their cards. No topping up is required, as all travel within the specified period is covered.

Photo by *Muhammad*.

Single Out Your Route

Thousands of buses, hundreds of routes…a pain to navigate? No. Most routes zigzag through popular areas, meaning there’s often a single bus that can take you from A to B.

Download a simplified map showing major routes here, or grab a copy of the real thing at a tube station. They may not be displayed as prominently as those for the underground, so don’t be afraid to ask.

Some routes are more scenic than others. The 24 will whisk you from Victoria Station, past Parliament and Trafalgar Square, through the Camden High Street markets, all the way to Hampstead Heath.

The 14 connects ritzy Chelsea with Hyde Park, Piccadilly Circus, and the Theatre District, while you can ride the 118 all the way from the British Museum to Greenwich.

Two routes cutting through the center of town (9 and 15) still employ the old Routemaster double-deckers. Though much more cramped than their modern counterparts, they make for an authentic London experience.

London’s transport system is constantly evolving; routes can change suddenly due to maintenance work. Before you head out, browse the “Live travel news” section of the Transport for London website for the latest updates.

Photo by suburbanslice.

Decipher the Signs

You’ve picked your pony and are raring to go, but don’t get too cocky! There are still some rules of the road to absorb.

On the street, bus stops are marked by a red and white sign featuring a circle with a line through it. If the background is white, the bus will stop automatically. A red background, on the other hand, signifies a “request stop;” you’ll have to flag the driver.

Beneath this is the name of the stop and the route numbers that service it. A detailed timetable for each is also provided.

For route numbers set against a yellow background, purchase a ticket prior to boarding the bus. Machines at the stop dispense single-ride and one-day tickets—exact change required. If you have an Oyster card, no worries; simply swipe as you board.

Pre-pay buses are common in Central London. Elsewhere, you can buy your ticket from the driver.

Photo by donjuanna.

Ride Like a Pro

The model of the bus will determine how you board. Chances are you’ll be hopping on a modern, low-floor (wheelchair-accessible) double-decker. For these vehicles, you enter through the front door and exit by the rear.

Also in service, though not for much longer, are articulated or “bendy” buses. Board these through any door.

During rush hours, buses on well-used routes may be crowded, but more often than not you’ll be able to sit. On double-deckers, passengers seeking a cheap thrill head for the forward-most seats of the upper level. Depending on your susceptibility to vertigo, viewing oncoming traffic from this angle is either mundane or terrifying.

If unfamiliar with the city, check the bus’s progress against a road map, as it’s easy to become engrossed in the scenery and lose track of your position. Either way, you’ll learn the layout of the area much faster on a bus than in the tube.

As your destination approaches, press the button on the handrail to request a stop, and cautiously make your way to the exit door. Take special care when descending the staircase of a double-decker; it’s an embarrassing (and bruising) fall should you lose your balance.

Photo by Cheddarcheez.

Burn the Midnight Oil

Unlike the tube, which shuts down around midnight, London’s buses can get you home after a wild night at the club.

Some popular routes operate 24 hours, while a host of new ones swing into action at the stroke of twelve, giving you around 100 nighttime route options in Greater London. Many begin at Trafalgar Square and trace the paths of tube lines.

Night routes are marked with an “N” before the route number. Service is less frequent than during the day, and flagging is essential if you want the driver to stop. Similarly, make sure to push the “stop” button when you’re ready to disembark.

Happy riding!

Community Connection:

While you’re at it, why not learn to ride the bus in NYC, too?

How to Survive an Avalanche

Hal Amen — Sat, 25 Oct 2008 04:34:59 +0000

Feature photo by flicksta. Photo above by wsdot.

Avalanches kill numerous people every year, but the danger can be lessened with proper knowledge.

A Mack truck of snow, cascading at 100 mph, bears down on you. The ground shakes, thunder fills your ears, and everything goes white.

What do you do?

Each year, avalanches claim 150 lives worldwide. The majority of victims are backcountry recreationalists—skiers, snowmobilers, climbers, and snowshoers who venture into unpatrolled terrain.

The good news: Most avalanches are triggered by the very people they ensnare, and can therefore be prevented with the proper mix of know-how and caution.

Photo by wsdot.

Practice Avoidance

An avalanche is easiest to survive when avoided altogether. Knowledge and experience are essential here, so before you take on the backcountry, take in an avalanche safety course.

You’ll learn skills like identifying suspect terrain. While an avalanche can occur at any grade, 30–45-degree slopes are most susceptible. Bowls and gullies are always risky.

Signs of past avalanches, such as a treeless chute cutting through an otherwise wooded pitch, are telltale. If an avalanche has run once, another is inevitable.

Slides begin on slopes, but standing complacently on the valley floor can put you in even greater danger. Pick out likely runout zones, where all the snow and debris will end up after a run, and steer clear.

Visual clues alone are not enough to assess avalanche risk. Much depends upon the makeup of the snow itself.

Snowpack is composed of different layers, some cohesive, others loose and light. A dense slab resting above a weaker layer requires only the slightest trigger to slide. Know what’s under you—perform snowpack tests frequently during an outing.

Every backcountry trip should begin with a thorough investigation of current conditions. How much snow has fallen? What temperatures can be expected? Which direction is the wind blowing? Have avalanche warnings been issued?

With links to avalanche centers throughout the world, avalanche.org is a great resource.

Don’t get bogged down by jargon in your research. This handy encyclopedia will help you keep those terms straight.

Photo by T.M.O.F.

Gear Up

Next comes the hardware. A comprehensive gear list for backcountry excursions can be found here.

Most important is the beacon, a device capable of emitting and receiving a pulsed radio signal. All beacons function at a frequency of 457 kHz, regardless of manufacturer.

If you’re buried by an avalanche, a transmitting beacon represents your best—perhaps only—chance of rescue. Those searching for you, with their beacons set to receive, can pinpoint your location to within a couple feet.

Obviously, beacons only function when used together. Make sure everyone in your party carries one, and NEVER go into the backcountry alone.

Once the beacon has done its job, long, skinny poles called probes are stabbed into the snow to determine your exact position. Finally, a shovel is the most efficient method for extracting you.

Other backcountry tools, including slope meters and snow saws, assist in your analysis of avalanche risk. None of these specialized devices are self-explanatory; practice makes perfect. Your safety course will lay the foundations, but it’s up to you to hold refreshers throughout the season and prior to any trip.

Photo by wsdot.

Worst Case Scenario

Even the best prepared and most experienced can fall victim to an avalanche. The documentary A Dozen More Turns chronicles one such story.

How should you react to the worse case scenario?

During any precious seconds before the avalanche hits, ditch your gear, which will only weigh you down. (Your beacon should be attached to clothing beneath your jacket.) Crouch low facing downhill, cover your mouth and nose, and brace for impact.

Around half of all avalanche deaths result from blunt trauma—being smashed against a tree or rock. Controlling this factor is impossible. Instead, concentrate on preventing the other killer: suffocation or hypothermia from burial.

Remain at the surface of the slide. Move your arms and legs as if you were doing the backstroke in a pool. Your muscles will meet much greater resistance in snow than in water, so don’t hold back. Use all your strength to avoid getting pulled under.

Too often, the torrent of snow is inescapable. But even buried within it, there are ways to increase your odds.

As the slide slows, punch your hands out in front of your face to create an air pocket. This must be done quickly, for immediately after the snow stops it will harden.

No matter how large the air pocket, your oxygen is limited. Remain as calm as possible, taking slow, measured breaths. Shout only if you think someone is very close, as the snow will muffle the sound.
All you can do now is wait and trust in the competence of your companions.

Photo by Lt. Pancake.

To the Rescue

Just as you’d want a capable rescuer to come to your aid, you must be prepared to do the same for a victim in your party. In the backcountry, miles from civilization, you are their sole hope of survival.

As the person tumbles with the avalanche, maintain visual contact, carefully noting their last visible position if they go under. This will mark the upper boundary of your search area.

When approaching the slide zone, be wary of triggering a second avalanche. You can’t help anyone if you become buried yourself.

Scan for visual clues first: a backpack, a ski pole, a hand sticking out of the snow. Lacking these, it’s beacon time.

Your search pattern will depend on the size of both the rescue group and the search area, as will your probing strategy once you’ve homed in with a beacon. A skilled, properly equipped team can find a body in under five minutes.

After 15 minutes of burial, fatality rates skyrocket. However, survivors have been pulled from avalanches hours after being covered, so don’t give up unless exhaustion is endangering your own safety.

Once the victim is located, dig downhill from them, exposing the head and chest as quickly as possible.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION:

Headed to the backcountry? Check out A First Timer’s Guide to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding, and 8 Pieces of Gear To Keep You Warm and Safe in the Backcountry.

GOODS:

8 Steps for Successful Self-Supported Bicycle Tours

Hal Amen — Sun, 13 Jan 2008 03:25:28 +0000

Photo by Hal Amen

Cycle touring = freedom. Forget letting bus and train routes dictate your schedule. Forget settling for tour operators’ carbon-copy itineraries. On a bicycle, you’re in control. Life slows enough for you to digest every sight, every smiling face, every facet of “place.”

This unique form of travel involves unique demands, however. A successful tour is the result of thoughtful preparation, and these 8 steps will help you get there.

1. Know what you’re getting into.

It’s essential to realize how cycle touring differs from conventional travel. The cliché proclaiming the journey to be more important than the destination really applies. You’ll need to enjoy the long stretches of empty prairie as much as the temple ruins you’re headed to. And yes, at some point you’re going to get tired, sore, wet, and discouraged.

That caveat notwithstanding, don’t psych yourself out by dwelling on any perceived hardships. Cycle touring is a very feasible and rewarding travel option; you simply need to be mentally prepared for what it takes.

2. Tailor your gear.

What kind of self-supported tour are you interested in? Two basic categories are credit-card touring (eat at restaurants and sleep in hotels) and fully loaded tours (camping equipment required). Which you choose will shape your gear needs.

Where are you going? Do you have your sights set on a multi-state trail ride along the Great Divide ? Or perhaps you want to trace the length of Vietnam’s National Highway 1. The bicycle you opt for depends on the surface you ride on. Mountain bikes with front or full suspension are preferable for off-road treks, while a touring-specific model is best for pavement. Visit www.adventure-cycling-guide.co.uk for more thoughts on this.

3. Understand your limits.

When mapping your route, set realistic distance and time expectations. Can you honestly pedal 120 miles in one day? Will you really enjoy cycling for a week straight? After all, this is supposed to be fun! Scheduling low-mileage and off-the-bike days will give both body and mind a rest. Plus, you’ll be able to more thoroughly explore your surroundings.

4. Seek out firsthand advice.

How much information specific to cycle touring does your typical destination guide include? A couple paragraphs? You need more. It’s good to know that Cambodia’s Highway 6 turns into a lake in the wet season, or that riding west on Australia’s Great Ocean Road puts you at odds with prevailing headwinds.

No matter where you’re going, chances are someone’s already been and has written about it on www.crazyguyonabike.com Another good resource is www.bikeforums.net, which also has a helpful maintenance forum. Do as much research as you can, and fine-tune your route plan and equipment list accordingly.

5. As in all travel, put safety first!

Staying safe and healthy is the best way to ensure a good tour. Beyond the commonsense measures any traveler should take, it’s recommended that you have a contingency plan in case you need to end the tour early. How will you get you and your bike home safely if this happens? Also, since cycling can place you in situations of increased vulnerability, stay abreast of information concerning crime or unrest in your travel area.

6. Get fit…if you want.

Each cyclist has his or her view on training for a tour. For an idea of how complex it can be, check out this .pdf document. Personally, I’ve found that nothing prepares you for sitting in the saddle all day like…well, sitting in the saddle all day. While you shouldn’t expect a magical transformation from full-time couch potato to super-tourer, the importance of a pre-tour training regimen is often overstated.

7. Test it out.

You have your bike. You have your racks, your panniers, and a respectable stash of travel-friendly tools. But do you know how everything works? How do you change a flat tire? What should you do if a shift cable breaks? And what the heck is a Hypercracker? The more familiar you become with issues like these, the less likely you’ll encounter a serious problem on the road.

Finally, throw everything together and go for a ride, even if only a short one. Learn how your bike handles under load, how best to pack everything, and whether or not it’s all going to fit!

8. Keep a record.

When completed, your tour will represent a point of pride, perhaps even a once-in-a-lifetime accomplishment. So before you start, consider documenting your journey. Many travelers keep a daily journal, but why not do more? Internet access is easy to come by in much of the world, and blogging from the road is an excellent way to record your experiences. Your family and friends will enjoy following your progress, and all of us out here in cyberspace will share in your adventure as well!

North America’s Greenest Road Trips: Vermont

Hal Amen — Mon, 07 Jan 2008 02:48:19 +0000

Photo by Paul Moody

As we make efforts to minimize our carbon footprint, the Traveler’s Notebook presents the greenest road trips in North America, trips that offer maximum activity options with a minimum amount of driving. As opposed to interstates, which typically bypass local communities (depriving them of the economic support they’d otherwise receive from travelers), the roads you’ll travel here traverse some of the best towns and terrain you’ll find anywhere.

Be it outdoor adventure or world-class restaurants and shopping, Vermont caters to every interest. This 220-mile loop takes you to some of the state’s deservedly popular attractions while letting you discover your own.

As Vermont’s biggest city, Burlington is more than just a convenient starting point. Before you head out, make sure to sample the shop wares and eatery menus on pedestrian-friendly Church Street. If you find you’ve enjoyed your dining experience a little too much, work up a sweat on the scenic seven-mile bike path that runs north through several recreational parks along the Lake Champlain shore.

When you’re ready to depart, follow Route 7 south out of town. Though congested at first, it soon narrows into a pleasant byway, with good views out to the lake and Adirondack Mountains beyond.

The Shelburne Museum, just seven miles south of Burlington, should be your first stop. You’ll find everything from impressionist paintings to a restored 200-foot steamboat at this indoor/outdoor depository of American folk art and artifacts.

In the fall, Shelburne Orchards offers apple picking (including organic apples) near the shores of Lake Champlain. Farther south, Middlebury is worth a look. Beer connoisseurs should check out the tour of Otter Creek Brewery.

Swing east onto Route 4 in Rutland and venture into the heart of the Green Mountains. If winter snows are falling, spending a couple days around Killington—arguably the Northeast’s best skiing—is definitely recommended. World class hiking and mountain biking opportunities can also be found in the area, most notably where the Appalachian and Long Trails intersect at the Inn at Long Trail near Sherburne Pass.

After Sherburne Pass, Route 4 leads back down to lower elevations and the village of Woodstock. From here, turn onto the little-traveled Route 12 and wind your way north. In mid-November, it’s worth stopping in Northfield to check out Cabot Hosiery Mill’s‘ annual sock sale. It sounds about as riveting as watching the Vermont cows graze, but it’s truly a great way to learn about and support the local economy. The mill’s very existence is rather fascinating, considering it’s one of only a few such American operations still resisting the move overseas.

Another ten miles on 12 will bring you to Montpelier. With about 8,000 residents, it’s the country’s smallest capital, and the only one without a McDonald’s. Instead, there are several choice dining options just past the attractive capitol building on State Street.

Route 2 takes you to Waterbury, where you can enjoy a pint at the Alchemist Pub and Brewery. From here, make your way north along Route 100. You’ll pass the Ben & Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory, a Cabot Creamery, and the Cold Hollow Cider Mill, all fun places for a quick stop. The latter two offer tasty free samples.

Smuggler’s Notch, a pass on the eastern slope of Mt. Mansfield–Vermont’s hightest peak–is an exceptional drive (although closed in winter) with numerous recreation activities including hiking, canoing, fishing, and mountain biking, and snow-sports and ice-climbing in wintertime. To get there, follow Route 108 as it weaves its way among sharp cliffs and fallen boulders.

The mountain town of Jeffersonville lies at the end of your descent from the pass, from which it’s a an easy jaunt back to Burlington via Route 15.

Notes

Unfortunately there isn’t much in the way of alternative transportation for this loop. It might be possible to cover some segments by Greyhound bus, but service would likely be costly and sparse. For those with mighty legs and a sense of adventure, cycling is an option. Keep in mind that traffic throughout the state can be heavy in autumn, when travelers from around the globe flock to New England to watch the leaves turn crimson.

Bed and breakfasts are scattered liberally along the route. There are also numerous state parks for camping. Visit www.campvermont.com or www.vtstateparks.com for comprehensive listings.

Interested in contributing a Green Guide to the Traveler’s Notebook? Check Matador’s Bounty Board for information on how to contribute.