Photo by James Jordan. Feature photo by Julien Harneis

Malaria is a global killer. However, humans are advancing technology against this parasite, working to develop a vaccine.

Vaccines prevent illness and death from infectious organisms. Anybody who has been vaccinated owes a debt of thanks to Dr. Jenner and his cows. In the late 1700’s, smallpox was a common and fatal disease. Dr. Jenner used a concept of variolation, believed to have originated in India in the 8th century, to develop a vaccine against this highly infectious disease.

Jenner noticed that milk-maids, who spent a lot of time around cows, were not getting smallpox. He then noticed that smallpox was very similar to a cattle infection called cowpox, but much less severe.

In a move that would likely provoke a seizure in the FDA today, Jenner deliberately infected an 8 year old boy with cowpox. By using the pus from a milkmaid’s hand blister, containing cowpox, Jenner was able to prevent smallpox!

Today’s vaccines are much more regulated, tested, and studied, but use the same basic concepts. In fact, the term vaccination comes from the Latin word “vacca,” meaning cow.

Photo by hdptcar.

GlaxoSmithKline, one of the world’s leading vaccine and pharmaceutical producers, has been working in a collaborative effort with phase three clinical trials in early 2009.

The excitement about the malaria vaccine, called RTS,S/AS, is that it has recently been shown to reduce infections by 53% to 65%, in children aged 5-17 months, over an eight month period. This may not seem like that big of a reduction, but it represents the most significant advance in the history of malaria vaccination research.

Photo by zmxncbv.com

The study, published in New England Journal of Medicine, was originally attempting to examine the efficacy of the vaccine being administered with other routine childhood immunizations such as diphtheria and tetanus.

As part of the study, the children were also followed for malarial infections. Of note is that the malaria vaccine showed no interference with these co-administered, routine immunizations.

The difficulty of producing a malaria vaccine has to do with the inherent cleverness of the malaria parasites. Malaria is one of the oldest documented diseases and has made numerous changes to overcome medicine’s treatments and preventions.

Here are some basic facts about this disease:

Basics:

Parasitic infection of the red blood cells and liver that is acquired from the bite of an infected mosquito. Main symptoms include fatigue, muscle aches, and fever. Fever is known to undulate (come and go) approximately every three days. There are four main types of the disease: Plasmodium Vivax, Plasmodium Ovale, Plasmodium Malariae, and Plasmodium Falciparum.

Location:

Most every tropical area of the world. P. Ovale is localized to West Africa. All other types are found worldwide.

Transmission and Incubation:

Transmitted by bite of infected Anopheles mosquito. Incubation period of 9-20 days, or longer.

Diagnosis:

Use a blood smear that demonstrates Plasmodium species, try to draw blood during fevers.

Photo by chrisrobinson1945

Prevention:

Avoid outdoors at dawn and dusk (mosquito feeding times); wear long clothing to cover arms and legs; use bed nets; wear permethrin treated clothing; use a DEET body spray; destroy mosquito breeding areas and use anti-malaria medications.

Diagnosis:

Use a blood smear that demonstrates Plasmodium species, try to draw blood during fevers.

Treatment:

Based on species and sensitivity to medication. Chloroquine sensitive infections can be treated with quinine (600mg base initially then 300mg base at 6, 24 and 48 hours later) or with doxycycline for 7 days. Mefloquine (15mg/kg one time) is used for chloroquine resistant species. Multi-drug resistant strains can require artesunate.

Experienced travelers to the tropics are often already in the know about the idea that there are different types of malaria and that an anti-malaria medicine that works in one area may not work in another.

Certain species of malaria can and have developed resistance to the traditional treatment of chloroquine. This is why it is important to know the species and medicine advised for the geographic area where you are traveling.

Vaccines for diseases and travel health go very well together. Travelers go to strange and exotic locations, putting themselves in contact with new cultures, foods, experiences and diseases. Fortunately, for some of these diseases, such as yellow fever, a vaccine exists.

An effective vaccine for malaria has been a “holy grail” not only for travelers, but for those who live and die in malaria areas. Hopefully, this vaccine will progress into a usable option for millions of people, saving lives and easing travel to tropical areas.

COMMUNITY CONNECTION

Not all Matador members think you should get vaccinated.

Check out contributing editor Tim Patterson’s article 10 Travel Risks Worth Taking . And if you don’t have plans to travel to a malaria-prone area but care about the health of people who live there, check out special managing editor Eva Holland’s article, Travel to the Amazon with Nets for Ninos.

Baltazar Ushca, the hielero of Ecuador’s highest glacier

We’re heading towards the home of Baltazar Ushca, the last of the icemen of Chimborazo. The mountain is the highest peak in Ecuador at 6,310 meters, about 20,565 feet. Horses had been arranged for my friend and I because the altitude often takes a toll on foreigners, even though we’ve been living at altitude for months.

And Baltazar doesn’t wait around for followers, so once you get left behind you’re on your own. Now it’s near 8 a.m. and we’re way behind schedule, but that’s just something you have to get used to in Ecuador.

The Last Iceman of Chimborazo from Matador Network on Vimeo.

The clear sky that had started the morning is now gone and the low cloud cover blocks out the peak. It seems as though we’re riding straight into the sky.

Here in the páramo, it’s easy to see why Baltazar still loves the tradition. There is no noise, no pollution, and no one else around to bother him. Only the sound of the wind blowing through the short stalks of grass and the grunts of the donkeys.

Occasionally Baltazar will yell what sounds like, “Burro, Carajo!” The temperature drops and the sun gets more powerful, but the tranquility of the land is contagious, and for the next few hours up the trail we can’t help but feel at ease, moving in silence.

Each journey up and down can take 8 hours. Going up with only three donkeys, Baltazar will stop for about an hour to cut up grass which he makes into knots and packaging. This helps to preserve the ice before it goes on to the market every Saturday. Because of this, he only goes up on Thursday and Friday, using the other days of the week to tend to his farm and animals.

Cutting up grass in preparation for the ascent to the glacier

Cutting up the thick grass and weaving the rope, the short man makes it look so simple that a child could do it, but it’s clearly a precious skill.

Once the grass is prepared, we continue up above the point where anything can grow, and though the trail is steep and slippery, the air cold. We finally arrive at the spot of the hieleros, about 16,000 feet above sea level.

It’s nearly four hours since we left his house, and we can just see the valley over the crest of the boulder strewn earth and below a storm front that is quickly advancing.

For centuries, indigenous men have been climbing up here to chop out ice from the glacier and sell at the market in town. Because of the invention of the refrigerator, however, the need for this pure, Chimborazo ice has dropped off, and now Baltazar is the last man to continue this tradition.

I’d heard about this all from my friends Casey and Lara, who just happened to stumble upon it while on a trip in Ríobamba. The next chance I got I headed to the city, checked in at Hotel Los Shyris, and asked for Joel Quinllin. 10 minutes later we had worked out a deal for the following day, and he headed off to the village where Baltazar lives, Cuatro Esquinas, to set it all up.

An inactive volcano topped entirely with glaciers, Chimbazo provides water for the region

Baltazar isn’t a tour guide, and he speaks only rudimentary Spanish (his first language is Quechua). That didn’t matter when we met however, as we were greeted with a smile and firm handshake, welcoming us to a day in the life of a hielero.

It’s now officially freezing, but the silent indigenous man has the sleeves of his fleece rolled up and is working hard chopping away at the ice. The glacier, which is covered in dirt and slowly dripping mud, would go unnoticed to someone who wasn’t looking for it, and I realize that I’m standing on a giant glacier just a few feet below the soil.

He’s using a large ice pick to create a giant cube, which then falls down to be chopped in half. Throughout the entire process, he doesn’t say one word.

The arduous task of chopping blocks of ice

I offer him some nuts and he gladly takes them, then immediately gets back to work. Once the ice is out of the glacier, the clock is ticking. As we stand there not sure what to do, my feet start to go numb through the two pairs of socks and thin rubber boots.

I’m worrying about frost bite, and suddenly Baltazar takes off his boot to smack his chopping tool and I can see he’s not even wearing socks. His feet are muddy and calloused, but he shows no sign of being cold.

Finally six blocks of ice, roughly 60 pounds each are cut out, and once the dirt around them has been chiseled off, they are prepared one by one in the grass and wrapped up tightly. Each block takes about 10 minutes to wrap and load on the donkeys, so as we sit there being pelted by sleet and freezing, I start losing my patience.

One by one the donkeys are sent packing, and finally he tells us it’s time to go. I want to get back on the horse, but the trail is now too slick and muddy because of the snow, and the horses refuse to move. We must drag the horses down the entire trail, slipping and falling occasionally, aware that the horses are close to sliding right into us.

Baltazar, however, is far ahead of us and doesn’t slow down, as this is normal for him. He must continually run after the donkeys to make sure they don’t get stuck in the muddy trail. Below the clouds again, we can see that it snowed far down the mountain.

The sun comes back out and we can see over the entire valley, the nearby towns, and the two other volcanoes in the distance surrounding Ríobamba. By the time we get back to the flat trails it’s near 5 p.m. and Joel is waiting to meet us with the president of the village. They’re both beaming and want to know how the day went.

Wrapping the ice for the descent back to town

For all of this work, Baltazar will only make $2 per each block of ice, and of that he has to pay 50 cents per block to transport it in a bus or truck to the market. That means for a gain of $12, he has to pay $3 in taxes, or 25% of his haul that day.

Living in extreme poverty on a farm with his entire family, this 64 year old man continues on a tradition which long ago stopped being profitable. Yet he does so without complaint.

A few years ago some tour companies tried to profit off of this, and would charge tourists close to $200 to go on the hike with Baltazar. Only making about $5 per trip, Baltazar decided he didn’t want to take tourists up anymore, and as a result, not many people are aware of this part of the culture.

And it wouldn’t be right for the trail to be packed with tourists either. Just two people up there could be enough to get in his way, and it would be wrong to make the whole process seem like a Disney Land attraction.

But once Baltazar dies, the tradition will go with him. He is the last hielero, and though it is clearly an impractical way to get ice, it is a part of a culture which has been around since the Spanish arrived centuries ago. His children and grandchildren have no interest in continuing the tradition, and though the town of Cuatro Esquinas wants to somehow continue it, no one has stepped up as an apprentice yet.

Balthazar’s grandchildren on the farm with Chimbazo peering over

As often happens, the hardest working people are the poorest and most downtrodden. On the outskirts of the city, at the foot of the mountain, they live in a poor village with dirt roads and more animals than people. Life is different here, and the older customs continue strong and proud.

But in a world where uncertainty is the safe bet, how long will it be before those other customs too go the way of the dodo? But here, for Baltazar, it’s not enough to take him away from his mountain. And like every other Thursday and Friday since he was 15, he will go up the mountain again, alone, and live his life as he sees fit.

Community Connection

For more information on Baltazar Ushca, contact Joel Quinllin at:

w-wafer.q@hotmail.com or

joelquinllin@hotmail.com

Photo above by Dominic Degrazier. Feature photo by juanpol.

Also enjoyed in parts of Brazil, Bolivia, and Chile, mate is a tea-like beverage derived from Yerba Mate tree leaves.

Some say mate contains caffeine, others say mateine, but either way, after some sips you will feel more awake and not as hungry. And most agree mate has healthy attributes, such as easing digestion and reducing blood pressure.
Here are six tips for drinking mate:

Photo above by Dominic Degrazier

Share with People

The tradition of mate is about sharing time with others as much as anything else. Friends, family, and/or acquaintances form a loose circle while drinking, talking, and enjoying the relaxing session.

Understand the server’s role.

In a group of drinkers, one person is appointed the server and holds the thermos full of hot water. This person fills up the gourd (possibly with cold water if in Paraguay), drinks the first cup himself, refills and then passes the next full cup clockwise to the next drinker. So on and so on.

Saying Thanks – Don’t

If the receiver of the mate says, “Thanks,” he or she is understood to be having their last turn. Some places adhere to this rule more than others, but it is a safe bet not to say “Thanks” if you are looking to drink another round.

Touching the Straw

Some servers take offense to having their bombilla touched. They are serving the mate in the way they believe the recipient will best enjoy the flavor. This rule is observed in some places more than others, but in general, if something is wrong with the mate or the straw–pass it back to the server.

Photo above by maitse.tv

Addressing the Subject of Sugar

Customs vary throughout South America. Some people add sugar, taking their mate dulce. Others prefer it straight-up, or amargo. And still others add herbs such as mint.

Many people find mate bitter the first time they drink it, especially in early rounds when the yerba is freshest. Wait for the mate to make a couple more rounds, and it will be more lavado.

Drink with Caution

Be aware of the water’s temperature. Feel the bombilla’s stem before taking a sip and notice the heat (as at least the server should have drunk one gourd before you). No mate is a good mate when it scalds your mouth.

Photo above by Dominic Degrazier

Curing a New Mate Gourd

If you have bought your own gourd and are ready to start drinking on your own, don’t do it – not immediately, anyway. First, fill the mate with yerba leaves about ¾ full and pour in warm water. Let it sit for at least 12 hours in this state. Then, rinse out and begin your sessions.

Also, never clean your gourd with soap. It ruins the flavor. Simply rinse out the spent yerba each time after using.

Community Connection

Interested in learning more customs of the region? Check out Benny Lewis’s video on Learning to Dance Tango.

To read one Matador member’s story about mate, trout, and a perfect valley in Patagonia, check out Tim Patterson’s blog, Sharing One Trout with 23 Argentine Hippies.

Goods: Feel like knocking back some mate? Get your starter kit
here.

Photo by uhuru1701

You can use several arguments to counter the haters; I usually just smirk and laugh at anyone hating on me because I am American, but now and again you have to put the smack down. Here are a few lines I have used with some success:

“America is diverse, fool!”

This is a good one to start with because it cuts right through the bland generalizations haters like to make.

Begin with a geography lesson: America is one of the biggest nations on the planet and has 300 million people. Bring up New York and San Francisco as paragons of multicultural virtue.

Mention the fact that the coasts tend to be beacons (and exporters) of some of the coolest things the modern world has, such as music, fashion, slang, organic stuff and other fine examples of enlightened and vibrant societies.

The great city of New York. Photo by Thomas Hawk

It is always good to blame the bad impression people have of America on Texas, and then counter that with a small description of Austin. Tell haters that, yes, the Midwest can be pretty bad in terms of tolerance and such, but Chicago and Minneapolis are metropolitan cities with influence over swaths of the milk-bread countryside.

I like to tell people that in most American cities, you can have eggs and bacon for breakfast, fish tacos for elevenses, injeera with stewed veggies and beef for lunch, some pho for supper, and finish it off a dinner of some organic pasta with cream sauce and fresh sockeye salmon.

See what the haters have to say about that.

“America is beautiful, punk!”

The great beauty we have here in the US is not our cities, but the land.

Keep that old “This land is your land” song in your head and talk about the redwoods, the Cascades, the Blue Ridge mountains of the east, New England in the fall, Minnesota’s Boundary Waters, Florida’s beaches, Cali, Alaska and Hawaii, Vermont, Colorado and the Rockies, Big Sky country, the lazy overgrown South filled with peaches and willow trees and the like.

And then say: “Look hater, this is what we love about our country! We can go camping anywhere and maybe even meet up with a bear. I can drink from many, many rivers. I pick berries just outside of town. Road trips … what now!”

“Americans are friendly, chump!”

Contrary to popular belief, you will not get shot, stabbed, robbed, made fun of or ignored by all Americans. In fact, Americans tend to go out of their way to be friendly and accommodating to people asking for directions, a smoke, a light for a smoke, info on the cool spots around town and what to take on a camping trip.

Photo by -12°C

This is always nice when facing someone from Germany. Germans LOVE to hate on the US and it is always nice to have a couple arguments ready for these guys, besides the obvious WWII references. I am German myself and have spent a lot of time breaking my fellow Germans off some concerning America.

I basically bring up the whole “Germans are unfriendly curmudgeons” generalization and what ends up happening is, I say “Yeah, Americans are superficial” (gotta give your opponent something to play with) and they say, “Yeah, Germans can be pricks,” but WE are cool and represent the large part of the globally aware and socially responsible community.

Works for me.

“You are a hater, hater!”

This is what it basically comes down to. It’s so easy to criticize someone from the safe vantage point of ignorant hating, but once intelligence and critical thought come into play, all hating becomes silly and boring.

If you are meeting a traveler on the road, chances are he/she considers him/herself to be pretty smart and worldly. Appeal to this aspect of the personality and find common ground. Make a couple relativist arguments (of course after using one or more of the above) and show the hater that he is being a hater and that according to his own ethos, hating is wrong.

If you find yourself in Germany or Country-x-that-suffered-under-American-Imperialism, knowledge of history and patience may be required to bring the hater around. Let people know that, when a big international problem pops up, say Yugoslavia in the 1990s, Somalia, Sudan, Rwanda or the Middle East, everybody looks to the cop to fix things, then goes and hates on the cop for failing to do so.

Photo by [bastian.]

But I tend to go the other way and appeal to universalism instead of nationalism. It’s always nice to link with people regardless of what nastiness our (arbitrary) governments might be doing.

Links across (arbitrary) boundaries spit in the face of fascist, imperialist governments and lead to a feeling of hope for the future. Universalism is the one love future; nationalism is clinging to a hater past. This, more than all descriptions of America’s positive side, will be your most successful tool when dealing with a hater.

If all else fails, drink the punk under the table.

Community Connection

For more on being American overseas, check out Erin Granat’s feature article, Heroes or Hellions? How Americans Are Perceived Abroad.

Feature photo by _MaO_. Photo above by Tomas flickr.

We all know the old adage: “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.” But in some countries, it’s even more important NOT to do what the Romans AREN’T doing.

Disparaging the royal family in Thailand

Thailand takes its monarchy very seriously, to the extent that insulting the king or royal family, verbally or otherwise, carries a high price.

Just ask Oliver Jufer, a 57-year-old Swiss expat who ran afoul of the lèse majesté law when he defaced portraits of King Bhumibol Adulyadej after a few too many Beer Changs. A Thai court handed him 10 years in jail (out of a possible 75), but his sentence was later commuted by the same king he had affronted.

Showing affection in Dubai

Technically, it’s illegal to hold hands in public in this Emirati tourist hotspot. Try rounding all the bases, as two British beachgoers did in July of this year, and you could find yourself in court at the epicenter of a culture war.

Smoking in Bhutan

Simply bringing tobacco into this tiny Himalayan country is costly—you’ll pay a 100% tax at customs. Smoke in public and you’ll be out $225 more. But if for some reason you’re caught selling tobacco products…that might just land you in a Bhutanese prison on smuggling charges.

Photo by g-hat.

Tagging in Singapore

Among the long list of legally defined no-no’s in this tiny island nation—littering, jaywalking, and leaving a toilet unflushed, for example—is graffiti vandalism. Remember Michael Fay, the 18-year-old American who pled guilty to spray painting cars in Singapore? Then you probably also remember that he was jailed, fined, and given four strokes of the cane for his crime.

Romancing a local in Iran

Iranian law makes it illegal for non-Muslim men to maintain relationships with Muslim women. (Don’t get too excited, all you non-Muslim ladies out there—I’m sure it works the other way, too!) Though rare, arrests of Westerners on this charge are not unheard of, and it’s doubtful that an Iranian jail cell would be your first choice of where to spend the next few years of your life.

Carrying a firearm in El Salvador

To curb gun violence, this Central American nation has strict licensing requirements for firearms. Several tourists have been detained for allegedly violating these regulations, despite at first being led to believe they had obtained all the documents necessary to carry their gun in the country. Moral of the story: leave the weapons at home. Years-long prison terms await offenders.

Photo by Azizul Ameir.

Running drugs in Indonesia

You have to be pretty dumb to dabble in drug smuggling abroad, but even dumber to do so here. While many countries enforce tough drug laws, Indonesia’s are some of the toughest, calling for death by firing squad for those convicted of this crime, regardless of their country of origin.

Slaughtering a cow in India

Though it’s a misconception that “Hindus worship cows,” bovine slaughter is indeed illegal in a number of Indian states. In fact, protection of the animal is enshrined in the country’s constitution. Few perpetrators are actually punished, but the law allows for a hefty fine and imprisonment for up to five years. Just in case you were planning to open a slaughterhouse here, consider yourself warned.

Naming a teddy bear “Muhammad” in Sudan

Teacher Gillian Gibbons found this out the hard way when she allowed her Sudanese students to name the class teddy bear. They chose “Muhammad,” and she went to jail, charged with inciting religious hatred. Though the court spared her the prescribed 40 lashes, she spent eight tense days in custody before being released. Obviously, decrees governing insults to Islam in Sudan are no laughing matter.

Trafficking in cultural antiquities in Turkey

So you’ve found the perfect Turkish souvenir to take home and impress friends and family. But do you know the whole story? If your souvenir falls into the broad category of “antiquity” as defined by the Turkish legal system, and you lack the proper documentation for its possession, your departure from the country may be delayed while you become familiar with the inside of a Turkish prison cell.

Photo by WaveCult (luis.m.justino).

Taking a nip in Saudi Arabia

Officially, it’s against the law to consume alcohol in Saudi Arabia. Period. In reality, expats who live in certain areas are allowed to bend the rule, as long as they do it quietly behind closed doors. But for those who like to play it safe (or are looking for the perfect excuse to kick the booze habit), it’s best to go without. The alternative could be a public lashing.

Breaking and entering in the U.S.

Okay, okay. You don’t want to do this anywhere, and if you do, you deserve whatever punishment you get. But try it in the U.S., where as many as 50% of homeowners keep a gun in the house, and your fate might be decided well before the cops show up.

Community Connection:

Local etiquette varies from place to place, but some things are universal: check out Brave New Traveler’s 7 Ways To Thank Someone For Staying At Their Home.

An Uros Islander stitches a blanket

Opt for antique.

Before the advent of high-tech machinery and mass-production, fabrics were made by hand.

Today, even in Third World countries, the textiles you most often see on sale will be machine-made and replicated around town.

If you want a one-off blanket, shawl or rug, antique is often the way to go, even if it means a bit of extra digging.

A souvenir vendor on a La Paz side street might be selling the usual Bolivian mementos at the door, but ask inside and they might have some blankets sourced from a rural Quechua community.

Third World countries are your best bet for readily available and reasonably priced antique stock – capitalism tends to breed throwaway societies where only the best is kept… and then probably in a museum.

Have a budget in mind.

The price of traditional textiles varies widely based on provenance, quality, size, and antiquity.

How much you pay may depend on how serious a collector you are. If you’re just after a special souvenir, you could start with a colourful scarf or machine-made blanket that you won’t be too worried about if you spill red wine on at a picnic.

If you want to make world textiles a hobby, start thinking about investment purchases.

Go for the more unusual pieces– say a Berber shawl– and then try and bargain down as much as you can – more so if you suspect it’s been heavily marked up, less so (if at all) when buying from the source.

If you are with a guide or know people locally, ask them what price you should be paying.

Know your limits. Even if you do manage to track down a Moroccan marriage belt like the one you saw in a book, it could turn out to be worth US$4,000, so it’s not a purchase to be taken lightly.

Buy from the person who made it.

Aside from antique products, if you want to buy handmade, you will either need to search for a craft collective in town, or visit the homes and workshops of people who still make fabrics using traditional methods.

This can be an inexpensive way to acquire a lasting memento, and it will hold infinitely more sentimental value if you buy it from the person who made it, rather than a seller far removed from the production process.

Purchase a hand-beaded, hand-woven Karen tunic from a Thai hill-tribe and you will forever remember the beaming face of the woman who put in the hard work and benefited directly from the sale of the item.

Hammocks in Otavalo market, Ecuador

Ask the story behind it.

The attractive patterns and colours that first caught your attention can often be about more than just aesthetics.

If you’re buying from the maker, ask him or her to explain the symbolism or story behind the design.

If you’re buying the fabric in its country of origin from a store or market stall, the seller will usually have a general idea of the tradition behind it, the meaning behind some of the patterns and the regions they typify.

Delve into the story behind the attire of Amantani Islanders on Lake Titicaca, Peru and you may be surprised to hear that it’s the husbands who compete to embroider the most vibrant designs on their wives’ black woolen shawls.

Meanwhile, the neighbouring Uros women stitch folklore and tales of life on Titicaca’s floating reed islands into their brightly coloured blankets.

The author with Amantani Islanders Olga and Joaquin and shawls embroidered by Joaquin

Consider how you will use the fabric.

Unless you are buying museum quality pieces, you’re likely to want to make use of the textiles you buy.

As well as the other aspects listed here, take into account whether you actually like the way the material looks. Do you want it to have a soft or hard texture? The stiffer the wool or cotton, the more durable it will be, suitable for decorating a chair or table. Silk or soft cotton is better for wearing as a scarf, belt or shawl.

The author buying fabric from a woman in Bansko, Bulgaria

Research before you travel.

If you’re serious about buying good textiles on your travels, find out beforehand what patterns, fabrics and textile traditions your destination is known for.

Internet resources vary hugely, but comprehensive sites include textileasart.com and textilearts.net.

Otherwise, these books are a good place to start: World Textiles: A Concise History (World of Art) by Mary Schoeser, and World Textiles: A Visual Guide to Traditional Techniques by John Gillow and Bryan Sentence. When you reach your destination, ask your guide or fellow travelers the best places to begin your search.

Community Connection:

For more tips on bargaining and market shopping, read How To Rock Foreign Markets and Bazaars Without Feeling Like a Schmuck.

All photos by author.

Feature by Trey Ratcliff. Above photo by Tony.

First Step: Pick a Procedure

The United States government allows immigrants to obtain permanent residency by five means:

Immigration through a family member

Immigration through employment

Immigration through investment

Immigration through the Diversity Lottery

Immigration through “The Registry” provisions of the Immigration and Nationality Act

Second Step: Apply for a Green Card

Most people obtain their green card (which signifies permanent resident status) through family or employer sponsorship, so realistically, you’ll begin your application with a petition submitted to USCIS by one of these two parties along with the appropriate documents.

If approved, the applicant must wait for a visa number to become available through the National Visa Center. When one does become available, the applicant’s last step is to apply with the Department of State at their local consulate for a immigrant visa.

Here’s a decent overview of the process.

Third Step: Wait and Pray

Processing a visa application can take years due to long waiting lists and the limited yearly admissions.

Photo by mtsofan

Adventurers have circled the Earth on all manner of bicycles. Joff Summerfield is currently on this third attempt to tour the world by penny farthing. Matador’s own Tim Patterson prefers to pedal a folding bike with 20-inch wheels, rucksack strapped to the back.

While acknowledging that the possibilities are endless, what follows is a summary of conventional wisdom for selecting a touring bicycle:

Models

Most bikes can be very roughly divided into two groups: mountain and road. Mountain bikes are built for all-terrain riding, road bikes for just that—the road.

Mountain: general, it’s easier to outfit mountain bikes for touring. They encourage a more comfortable upright riding posture, accommodate thick tires, come with low gearing for sweating up hills, and better withstand abuse.

Tourers in areas lacking paved roads prefer mountain bikes. In addition to their overall ruggedness, most mountain bikes have front-suspension forks to eat up the shock of bumpy terrain.

Road bikes are designed to be speedy and agile. They only fit skinny tires and are not constructed to bear the weight of a touring load. In addition, stock gears on road bikes are too high for many tourers.

For those seriously interested in cycle touring, it’s worth looking into some dedicated touring models. These combine features of both mountain and road bikes, along with others specially created for the task of touring.

Like mountain bikes, touring-specific models fit larger tires and fenders, sit riders more upright, and are built to withstand the rough and tumble. Like road bikes, they often come with drop handlebars to increase hand-position options and have no front suspension.

Unfortunately, these bikes are much harder to find than their more popular cousins, especially in the U.S., where touring has yet to take off. Trek’s 520 and Cannondale’s T1/T2 are the two best-known touring-specific models in the Western Hemisphere.

photo by magical-world

Material

For touring, your two options will be steel or aluminum. Titanium may occasionally crop up—most frequently in tandems and recumbents—but use of this ultra-durable, light-weight metal will spike the cost.

High-end road bikes feature carbon-fiber frames to lessen their weight. This material is unsuitable for touring, as it’s weaker than metal and could crumple under the heft of rack and panniers.

The steel vs. aluminum debate is a heated one among tourers. While steel is heavier and susceptible to rust, popular opinion says it makes for a smoother ride. Sheldon Brown does a good job of debunking this assertion, but according to a poll on crazyguyonabike.com, 79% of tourers prefer steel frames.

Geometry

When it comes to comfort, a frame’s geometry is probably more important than its material. Geometry refers to the ratios between the different tube lengths that make up the frame.

Touring-specific frames have a longer wheelbase; the linear distance between the two wheels is greater than that of traditional bikes. Longer chainstays and a raked fork make this possible, with the results being greater stability and comfort.

photo by cincinnato

Another thing to look for in a frame is wheel clearance. You want enough room for at least a 32mm tire (probably a 35 or bigger), plus a fender.

As with any bike, it’s important to get a frame that fits you correctly. Browse the endless theories on the issue here, or simply ask a professional.

Touring Frame Features

A touring bike has to perform—handle well under load, support rear and front racks and panniers, and possess a drivetrain you can rely on day after day.

You know a bicycle was designed with touring in mind if it has eyelets (threaded holes) on the rear dropouts, seat stays, and fork. These represent the easiest way to mount rear and front racks onto the bike. The installation of most fenders also requires special eyelets in the frame.

If your dream bike is missing the eyelets, don’t despair. Mountain bikes with front suspension, for example, aren’t going to have eyelets in the fork. There are ways to get around this, such as clamp-on racks or those that run a support skewer through the wheel axle. Alternatively, you could pull a trailer instead of mounting panniers.

Another nice touch to look for is an extra pair of eyelets on the down tube for a third water bottle cage.

Wheels

The weight of your entire touring setup is going to rest on your bicycle’s two wheels. They must be able to shoulder the load.

Again, you’ll likely be presented with two choices: 26-inch wheels (the standard for mountain bikes and most bicycles around the world) or the slightly larger 700c (common on road bikes). The former are by physical definition stronger, and tires for them will be in stock worldwide.

More important for strength, however, are the quality of rim construction and the number of spokes. Dedicated-touring models should feature at least 36 spokes per wheel, four more than an average bicycle.

photo by magical-world

Components

Generally, tourers like a gear ratio closer to that of a mountain bike than a road bike. In other words, they want a fuller range of slow-speed options when grinding up a steep incline.

Unfortunately, many touring-specific models come stocked with road-bike cranksets. If yours does, and you want to swap it out, do so before the purchase. Bike shops will often exchange components for free to close a sale; after the deal is done, you’ll have to buy any new parts yourself.

Touring necessitates strong brakes that can effectively slow the heavy weight of a loaded bike. Cantilever brakes, such as those on most mountain bikes, are your best bet, the V-brake system being most common.

Overall, a good rule of thumb is to keep it simple. Opt for the tried and true component over the flashy trial model. Complex shifting, suspension, and braking systems will be more difficult to repair on the fly.

On the road, reliability is priceless.

Manufacturer

Racks, panniers, front and rear fenders, cantilever brakes, strong tires, plenty of gears, and even a front suspension are a few of the essentials that can make a bike a dedicated touring machine. Photo by vikapproved

Whoever builds your bike, you want their reputation to be solid. But even here you have options.

Brand name: Bikes sold by the big boys come with a proven track record and, hopefully, a lower price tag. In addition to Trek and Cannondale, Fuji and REI make popular touring models.

But because bigger corporations cater to the center of a large demographic, your precise needs as a tourer might not be fully addressed. Remember to factor any costs for new accessories into the price of the bike.

Custom builder: Nothing could be sweeter than sporting your very own custom-built touring machine. Have the frame constructed to fit your body, then add components as you like. You’ll pay more, but you’ll get more.

Waterford, Rivendell, and Bruce Gordon are a few well-known names in custom building.

Accessories

Saddles, tires, racks…these are important elements of your touring rig as well. However, most manufacturers assume you’re going to change them out to suit personal preference, so stock accessories are often of lesser quality than the bike. It’s easy to mix and match once you’ve found the ride that’s right for you.

Community Connection

For an in-depth purchasing guide to the makers and manufacturers of various bikes and components, check out Bicycle Touring: a Solid Setup.

And for a little inspiration, check out Matador contributing editor Tim Patterson’s blogs about his own bicycle touring adventures: give Crossing the Chic Choc Mountains or The Blue Side of Lonely a read.

Also be sure to check out Hal’s 8 Steps for Successful Self-Supported Bicycle Tours.

Photo by mark sebastian

Here are the highlights from a conversation with Michelle Goodman that was probably more fun than we were allowed to have. There’s also a special bonus round for reader participation:

How and when did you make your escape from the cubicle? Was it a long evaluative/meditative process or did you just take the plunge?

No, it was not well planned at all. I was 24 and I decided to move from the East Coast to the West Coast. And I decided “Well, I’m never gonna have a day job again.” I was stubborn enough to kick my day-job to the curb… a little too soon.

I would have stuck out the 9 to 5 a little longer, not necessarily because I felt like I needed three more years of it …, but had I taken the time to cultivate some stuff that really would have helped me work on my own.

Photo by mark sebastian

I didn’t know the first thing about running a business, I could have taken a one-day workshop on that, which you could take at Score for $100, and it would have helped.

I didn’t have any money, I didn’t have any clients, no contacts on the West Coast, some work samples…but there was no plan. I just did it.

So if you could go back to your younger self or talk to a roomful of travel writers/travelers who want to be cubicle expats, what would you say?

Work on getting clips now. Don’t wait until you’re leaving the job. It’s actually such a great opportunity, while you have the cushion of a regular paycheck, to be saving a little—I don’t know, “saving” seems like such a funny word to say right now in this economy…

Everybody’s different, but I feel like my 20s were so much about exploring. I did a lot of exploring and traveling on the West Coast, mainly in my car or on foot.

Was this before you moved to the West Coast?

When I had moved to the West Coast from the East Coast. I originally moved to LA when I was 21, then I moved back to the East Coast and then back to the San Francisco Bay area, then up to Seattle when I was 30.

Every time I went to a bed and breakfast or a new backpacking trip or hike, I wish I’d been more savvy about either doing the article in advance or [making] pitches and getting an assignment.

I would say to start looking at everything as an opportunity for a story, whether it’s non-fiction or a creative essay… that may not be so much of a how-to travel thing. Take the camera, the notebook, and the tape recorder (or the laptop) and travel everywhere.

Practice documenting your trips; practice your craft.

Photo by ~MVI~

One of the best parts of both your books is the idea that you don’t need to be a trustafarian or have a rich partner to explore your options or explore your world.

I think some of us who are attached to the unconventional career realm are better equipped in some ways for an economy like this where people are terrified that they might not have a job next week.

If you’re used to contracting and you know how to get contract jobs and you’re skilled at moving around and being flexible, you’re gonna fare better. Even if you’re not someone who relies on freelancing as your sole income, you know how to moonlight and… supplement in tough times.

You mention building client and contact bases. How would you recommend travel writers choose their clients or publications?

…On the one hand, you should absolutely approach the publications that are publishing on topics that you’re really knowledgeable about or interested in. It’s helpful to become an expert in a couple of little niches.

[Editors] would rather have someone who knows what they’re talking about, like the person who knows all the small restaurants in Spain.

Another part of developing some niches is that you have the potential to make more money because you don’t have to re-learn the topic every single time. The downside of that is that you can get a little bit bored or burned out writing about the same thing. That’s why I think it’s nice to have maybe two or three [niches] that are unrelated.

You also have to look at what the markets you’re interested in pay. I am all for writing on the topics that you’re most passionate about, but if you happen to be getting paid ten cents a word for those and there’s something you know you can do that you’re a little bit less [passionate about] but you can make some more money off it, then go for it.

Maybe it’s a trade travel publication. There actually are trade publications like “Retail Store Displays for Stores Like REI.” Or maybe you’re writing catalogue copy. These can help balance out the fact that the travel publications you want to write for aren’t paying as much.

Photo by Shayan (USA)

Do you think there’s a corporate ladder in the writing world, or is it possible to jump in with a killer book and rave reviews?

There’s so many different ways people do it; there’s no formula for the bestselling book and how you get there. Some people go from “I started a blog for kicks and it’s the first time I’ve really written” to having the book because of that blog.

Some people start with the articles in newspapers and magazines, go to columns, and then to books. Some people go right to books. There’s no real “you have to do it this way, you have to do it that way” thing. You don’t have to get your master’s in journalism or creative writing.

Especially if you keep writing books about the technical aspects of freelancing. All people need then is a copy of Bird by Bird: Some Instructions on Writing and Life
and Ariel Gore’s How to Be a Famous Writer Before You’re Dead and they’re good to go.

One argument I do not buy into for writers is (and I know all of the MFA people will hate me now) the people who got their degree 30 years ago and say “it’s the only way I network. It’s the only way to make connections.”

I think it’s the most ridiculous thing in this day and age. We have the Internet. And we have people barely able to afford college yet you’re encouraging people to stay and get two more years of higher education on top of that? I’m not against it at all; I still weigh the options of doing a low-residency program myself.

But travel writing—you have to go and travel. A classroom’s not going to help that much. You can take a couple of classes online or workshops to help you with the craft and work on your pieces, but you have to go live and experience and all of that.

School of life!

Yeah, man!

So for those writers who are starting with unpaid blogging gigs and places to showcase their work, how can they make that jump into jobs that at least help to pay the rent?

Somebody asked me recently “What should I put in my blog and what should I pitch?” and I think the value in having a blog is if you have no other samples and you’re actually doing posts that are beyond journal entries—posts that might be tips for travelers of some kind or a review of a restaurant or place you stayed at or something.

But don’t fall into the trap of spending so much time on your blog that you could spend pitching publications.

I think the only way to make the jump is to basically get out there and pitch. I know it’s hard; it’s hard when you don’t know an editor, it’s hard for them to take a chance sometimes with someone they don’t know, but so many publications are still using freelancers. I would go to websites like MediaBistro.com or Masthead.org, the newsstand even, and continue to send queries.

But it’s not enough to just pitch in the dark; you really have to know people so you have to go to local events in the community.

If you’re in a major metropolitan area—or even if you’re not– maybe it’s worth making the trek for an hour to get to the writing center or arts center that has those once-a-month talks.

…[G]o meet those people or go to parties through your local writing organization and meet other writers who are often the best source of referrals and the best way in not only to a publication but to an editor.

I know a lot of people probably think “Ooh the competition, I shouldn’t tell anyone what I know,” and you have to be careful about not giving too much away when you don’t know somebody because there are some unscrupulous people out there.

But they are few and far between, and one of the best ways to get introductions is through other freelancers who either don’t have the time to do the work or have maybe outgrown a certain editor or happen to be very busy that month and are happy to take you under their wing.

Keep pushing it. Set up little goals for yourself—”I’m going to attempt to get in the door with one publication a month” or whatever you have time for. Attitude counts as well.

I think a lot of us think, “I have to have ten years under my belt before I can approach my local newspaper or The New York Times,” and that’s really not true. There are lots of people I know who have been working as a freelance writer far less than me and they’re all “I pitched [the New York Times] this thing and now I’m writing for them.”

At the same time, if you have few clips, you would do yourself justice to work your way up a bit.

Photo by moonjazz

What would you say is the biggest mistake that freelancers—especially beginning freelancers—make?

Thinking that you can tell the editor what they need. …[P]eople do not necessarily look at the publications and see what the different sections are, what the word count is in the sections, and what kind of material is being fit into each section. And they’ll go to a publication that’s not an outdoor publication and say, “I want to profile this guy who’s climbed K2.”

Then there’s people who say, “Well, I know I was assigned this, but it turned into a first-person essay that was kind of like a short story on a completely different topic; do you think she would go for this?” And I say, “No, because that’s not the assignment!”

Make it as easy as possible… to say yes, because if it’s not the right length or tone or style, you’re just giving them more reasons to not respond.

It’s a mistake that I think a lot of freelancers make. And what goes hand-in-hand with that are the people who say “I don’t want to be edited.” There are people out there and you won’t like their edits and you’ll be pissed that they cut your best paragraph or flattened all of your jokes, but I can tell you from being on the other side that you actually learn a lot from a good editor.

You learn how to write a better story, learn these tricks of transition and ways to attribute things, ways to better structure a paragraph…. Publications pay so low as it is, that’s an added benefit, working with a good editor.

Editors will take an okay writer who does everything they ask over a kick-ass writer who’s unreliable. Any day.

Finally, can you give the folks at home an exercise to get their freelance juices flowing?

I think this will be cool; I recycle my article ideas for more than one publication a lot, and that seems to be a good way to go financially because you’ve already done the research.

Pick an idea that you’ve either been nursing or wrote about in your blog or think of a trip you’re taking and then think of three different places you could pitch it to—that would not be competing.

Say, one of your local newspapers, a small piece for a magazine you’d like to break into, and maybe a Q&A, or whatever it is. Find three different ways you can spin it.

Feature photo by Guy Incognito. Photo above by <<<...Buddhamountain ...

Whether you’re hucking off a cliff into chest-deep snow, or just taking quiet walk through your local woods, outdoor adventure can be lifelong pathway to health and well-being, and a great way to connect with friends, explore new places, and gain new perspectives on your home terrain.

Thought about trying a new outdoor activity? Here are 11 ideas for 2009. We’ve broken them down into three categories: lifelong skills, high adventures, and adventure-based travels.

Lifelong skills

Photo by <<<...Buddhamountain...

Telemark Skiing

In her recent article, a First Timer’s Guide to Telemark Skiing, Chrysser explained:

Telemark or free heel skiing refers to a turn developed in the Telemark regionof Norway by Sondre Norheim in the mid 1800’s. Like Nordic or cross country skiing, the back heel remains unattached to the ski’s base. This allows for cross country stride and glide on the flats or hiking uphill with sticky skins attached to reach peaks for descents.

Telemark skis are also designed for high-performance downhill skiing. The bottom line: telemarking gives you unparalleled access to backcountry terrain. Or even if you’re just making smooth free-heel turns on the groomers: you’ll find yourself part of a proud community.

Click here for our complete Gear Guide for Telemarking.

Photo by Spencer Cooke

Whitewater Paddling

In his recent guide on How to Get Started Whitewater Paddling, David Miller wrote:

Most people who don’t paddle associate kayaking with adrenaline sports.

And while there is undoubtedly that thrill-seeking element, once you really get into paddling, you’ll find that it’s more about gaining access to places you couldn’t get to otherwise.

This might be an isolated gorge like the one pictured here, a campsite on the bend of a high-desert river 50 miles from any trail, or even on the green face of a wave pumping right through the middle of your town.

And you’ll also learn how friendships and communities are built up around certain rivers and whitewater centers, and that extended families have created entire lifestyles around time spent on the water.

Like winter camping, tele-skiing or winter-camping, paddling is something you can begin this year, and progress with over a lifetime.

Parkour

Photo: Josa Jr.

Stuck in an urban center but still want easy access to a daily outdoor adventure? Check out Parkour. Developed in France and based on soldier’s training exercises during the Vietnam war, parkour is like skateboarding without a skateboard. You traverse the city by athletically springing / climbing / jumping over obstacles.

Surf

Most people who try surfing a few times give up because the hard part (learning to catching waves) comes at you in much greater proportion than the fun part (actually riding waves).

Photo: MillZero.com

That said, if you can put in the weeks and months it takes to truly begin catching and riding waves, you’ll learn more about yourself (there’s a lot of thinking time just sitting out in the lineup, waiting between sets) than almost any other activity.

Winter Camping

Photo by papalar

Most people curtail their outdoor activities in wintertime, especially camping. They’re missing one of the great pleasures. Because winter camping centers all around staying warm, it often leads to “best dinner you ever had” scenarios and truly memorable views of stars or endless moonlit snowfields.

With the proper gear and especially the right group of friends, winter just might become your favorite season to be outdoors.

High Adventures

Snow wall on Matterhorn. Photo by: Ezzzk.

Climb the biggest mountain you can find.

There are hundreds of massive peaks still reachable by mere mortals , as well as truly dangerous summits.

No matter what you plan on doing, however, a day spent climbing a mountain is never wasted.

Go backcountry.

Photo by Andre Charland

Have you put in several seasons on your local ski hill? Feeling confident in your skiing or riding abilities?

To experience the true freedom of the mountains you have to venture into the backcountry. Consider getting your safety (avalanche) training and beginning a new fitness regiment to prepare for hitting the backcountry in 2009. Learn more at our First Timer’s Guide to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding.

Adventure-based travels

Already a hardcore ski-mountaineer, paddler . . . one of those guys that works as a dishwasher in Jackson, WY and summits the Grand before working a double shift? Here are a few travel-related adventures to mix things up if you’re looking for something new in 2009.

Note: Craig Martin contributed the following selections.

Run with the bulls.

Photo by wili_hybrid

Most festivals don’t involve a brush with death, but the yearly running of the bulls in Pamplona gives you the chance to test your sprinting and turning skills to the utmost as ton upon ton of heaving, bristling beast charges up the steep slope and along the city streets.

Hump along with a camel safari.

Photo by shawnbot

These amazing beasts are reputed to be none too friendly, but don’t let that put you off. Camping under the stars after a hard day camel-back riding gives you a chance to kick back, relax and ponder the grand things in life: the wildlife you saw, people you met, the stars, and the pain.

The Australian outback, North Africa, and India are all popular places to give it a go.

Go on an African safari.

Photo: lemoncat1

Prefer big cats to beasts of burden? An African safari will amaze you and might even convince you to join a conservation group.

Reduce your carbon footprint by walking the parks: Kruger National Park (South Africa) has guided walks with gun-toting rangers circling back to the safety of camp each night.

SCUBA Dive the Great Barrier Reef

Photo: dirkyhorn

Snorkeling clear reefs is one thing, but getting past the fear of full submersion and trusting the SCUBA equipment is another.

2009 is the year to get down deep and explore bright coral and alien sea creatures.. The Great Barrier Reef, Australia is many people’s first choice, but try getting your feet wet in Palau, one of the world’s newest countries. It’s a seldom-mentioned gem.

Got something better you’d like to have a go at? Tell us all about it in the comments.