Otavalo, Ecuador. Photo by Theodore Scott.

I wasn’t always comfortable haggling. The first time I tried it was in Marrakesh. I wanted a Berber drum but had no idea how to haggle. The only reason I didn’t pay too much was that I didn’t have much money to start with.

Since then I’ve haggled in many places around the globe. It is a useful skill for every traveler. Haggling can get you cheaper taxi rides and discounts on hotel rooms. Although, I think it is the most fun when done at the local market.

If you are new to this sport, the following advice will give you a good chance of getting what you want at the right price:

1. Don’t get too attached.

A common mistake is convincing yourself that you must get a certain item. A worse mistake is letting the seller figure that out. If they see that you have fallen in love with something they are selling, then you are in a very weak bargaining position.

Even if the item is a one-of-a-kind piece that you will never find again, that doesn’t mean you can afford to pay a high price for it. There are plenty of other unique pieces that you can afford. Always be willing to find something else if the price isn’t right.

2. Set a ceiling price.

Before you start to haggle, figure out how much you can pay. This isn’t the price that you would prefer; it is the most you will let yourself pay. This stops you from getting caught up in the experience and regretting how much you spent.

3. Walk away.

Everyone knows this and yet most don’t do it. Walk out the door. The seller will probably yell at least one lower price as you leave. If not, the item will still be there in an hour – after you have looked for similar items elsewhere. You can come back. Don’t believe the shopkeeper if they tell you it will be sold by then.

4. Learn the language

You don’t have to be anything close to fluent, but learning a few phrases helps. Simple phrases can help you state your case without relying entirely on the shopkeeper’s English. Get a phrasebook or have someone teach you. Learn how to say “too expensive”, “how much”, “you are crazy”, etc.

Practice your numbers. You will feel much more comfortable if you can name your price and can recognize the numbers they are saying. Spend five minutes reviewing them before falling asleep each night to make them stick.

5. Bargain backwards

Bargaining in reverse sounds crazy, but it works. Haggling over a figurine in Peru, I offered 20. He was trying to rip me off at 100 and wasn’t coming down at all. I countered with 15, because he was being greedy and inflating his tourist price. I was getting even further from the asking price. He quickly lowered his asking price.

This tends to shock them into realizing that you are not going to come anywhere near what they are asking. If they want to make a sale, then they can start by being reasonable.

6. Ask for a bulk discount.

Another favorite is to buy multiple items and ask for a discount. Typically, you should haggle over one item until it is down to a reasonable price. Then, pick up a second and ask how much for both. You can get a little extra knocked off, so it won’t cost twice as much. I use this on simple gift items for friends and family back home.

7. Be reasonable.

Sometimes travelers lose perspective. If you find yourself close to an agreement, but can’t make them budge that last little bit, then ask yourself if another dollar really matters. You don’t need to spend your whole afternoon making sure you got the absolute best price on a Machu Picchu shirt. Save your energy for the more expensive items.

---

Community Connection

For more on haggling, check out Lola Akinmade’s beautiful blog on the marketplace in Lagos, Nigeria.

Photo by Ryan Libre

“What makes a place special?” Ryan Libre questions in this podcast. “I think if you can find a good answer that question, a good photograph is sure to follow.”

Click on the Play button to listen along and learn more, including cropping, slow shutter speeds, and patience.

---

Along with Ryan Libre, the Matador community is filled with talented and passionate photographers. Delacouri has amazing shots from her time working with endangered monkeys in Vietnam. Veronica has incredible images of Patagonia. Rob has taken hundreds of priceless shots from all over the world. Phishtopher has some amazing images from his life in Western China. And both Beija-flor and AsianInsights are experts at photographing people. Grady, MST and Reed Lindsay can give you tips on digital video production and goodman is without a doubt, one of the most gifted photographers on the Web.

Join them. Matador is blossoming…

---

Photo by Robert Paetz

What are the best seasonal jobs for traveling? We asked this back in December and got dozens of great responses we remixed into this article. Since then we’ve had even more ideas and responses, so here is the follow up, round 2 of the best seasonal jobs for traveling:

1. Concierge

Lusine Stepanian writes: The best travel job I had was in London, England. I worked as the Concierge of a small hotel chain. It wasn’t really the job that made my experience so great, but the people I met every day.

We had tourists from all over the world, some speaking very limited English. It gave me the chance to brush up on my Italian, since I literally went home everyday looking up new words in the dictionary to be able to assist the guests better. I was even invited to go to Italy by one of the guests. Eventually, I was so inspired that I ended up traveling to Italy to take an intensive two week language course.

Tip: check www.swap.ca or www.bunac.org which can help you with work visa and your job search.

2. Commercial Fishing

Brad Whipple writes: fishing is a great job for traveling. You can go anywhere there’s water. You can work a one-day charter, a week-long trip, or a month-plus season. The job itself might even take you to the next place you want to go.

A shrimp boat, for example, will begin a season in Brownsville, TX, work around the Gulf Coast and down to the Florida Keys, then up to Cape Hatteras, NC. and you’re getting paid! (self-employed, no withholdings!) it’s an accessible industry around the world, and full of unique exposure to nature, both human and mother. rubber boots and strong back required.

Tip: Check out Brad’s complete guide to getting work on an Alaskan fishing boat.

3. Caretaker

Nora Dunn writes: Caretakers’ Gazette, Organic Volunteers, House Carers, and Wwoofing are great resources to find temporary positions doing anything from house or pet sitting, to organic farming, to campground management, and myriads of other seasonal jobs where rent-free living is the common denominator.

4. Dining and Lodging Services in the National Parks

Laurie Pickard writes: Working in the national parks is great. Getting a full-time position with the National Park Service is challenging, but private companies such as Xanterra continuously hire seasonal employees for dining and lodging services in the parks. The greatest part is that you get to live inside the park for a season. I did it in Acadia National Park in Maine one autumn, and it was fantastic.

5. Crewing on a Sailboat

N. Chrystine Olson writes: Crewing on sailboats is a great way to travel. In 2001 I went to help a buddy re-hab a 32 foot West Sail in La Paz, Baja; this got me onto other boats, a 42 foot vessel named Wooden Shoe (guess what she was made of), and a couple other gigs on different boats over a five month period. I sailed the Sea of Cortez and jumped over to the Mexican mainland for other adventures including taking the train into Copper Canyon.

I had offers to make the crossing to the South Pacific, but alas, responsibilities here in the States called me home. If you don’t get too seasick, I highly recommend it. If you are a decent cook, even better. A search on the Internet will direct you to all sorts of opportunities. Some great characters on the open water.

6. A Bollywood Actor

Jenny Williams writes: It’s really easy for foreigners to get jobs as extras and longer stints with speaking parts. The pay for one-time gigs is pretty low, $15 a day or so. But if you’re persistent and good at networking (or just happen to be in the right place at the right time), you can get longer positions that pay much better, $30-$60 per day.

My boyfriend and I worked as extras on a major Bollywood film (google “You, Me, Aur Hum”, releasing April 10) that was being shot on a cruise, which meant: $60 a day in addition to 2 weeks on a luxury cruise liner for free. After that, we got offered some other parts for speaking roles in commercials and TV shows which we had to turn down due to our travel schedule. And we’re not particularly talented or good-looking!

The bummer is that you’re pretty much limited to Mumbai (plus a few other cities in India). The one-day jobs can also be pretty awful, long and boring. Still, if Mumbai’s part of your itinerary, and you’ve got a flexible schedule, DO IT.

7. Nursing

Ben Polansky writes: Nursing is a huge one. I have multiple friends who earned their nursing degrees and haven’t looked back. There’s always work for somebody who knows how to take care of the sick. Check TravelNursing.com or Doctors Without Borders if you’re really committed.

8. Ski Resort Employee

Eva Holland writes: Work the ski resort scene - there are foodservice jobs aplenty and many of the resorts will put you up (in dorms… I hear it’s like freshman year, without the classes! woot?) and provide perks like lift passes. I wouldn’t be surprised if I land in Whistler or Banff one of these winters, seems like a good gig.

Most of the resorts have job info on their sites - also, for non-Americans I’ve heard this is one way to get a temporary US work visa. I met a bunch of Aussies who worked ski seasons in upstate New York and down in New Mexico - the resorts hooked them up with permits.

Tip: (From David Miller, ex Parking Lot Attendant, Heavenly Valley) Being a liftee can drive you nuts. Working rentals you have to deal with rushes of customers and stinking ski boots. It might seem like the lowest job on the totem pole, but the parking lot attendants actually get the most riding time. Stack those cones man!

Stay tuned for more seasonal jobs coming soon. . .

Photo by Ryan Libre

Anyone who maintains a travel blog knows how hard it can be to stay motivated about making updates, especially while still on the road. When you finally stop in a busy internet cafe, it seems like half the things you wanted to write about have disappeared. You’ll find however, that by taking better notes, the time you spend actually writing your blogs becomes much more productive and creative.

1. Invest in a digital voice recorder

Everyone seems to take a camera, but what about recording the exciting sounds of a frantic market, a street performance, or someone pronouncing words for you in a foreign language? A digital recorder is discreet enough to keep in a pocket, and great for recording thoughts, sounds, conversations, etc., especially at times when writing is difficult or impossible, such as bumping along on a bicycle or even walking down a crowded street. The recorder is also invaluable for interviewing.

Tip: Use headphones for clearer / more discrete playback of your recordings.

2. The pocket notebook

Being a little shy about dictating in front of people, I also carry a small notebook with a waterproof cover. A rubber band helps keep it together and protected while it slides into one of my pockets with a small pen or half pencil. A kit like this is easy to use, whereas pulling out a special handcrafted journal, spiral notebook, or legal pad may be difficult, such as when you’re on a crowded bus.

3. Create a template for your travel notes

As a reminder to myself when I write, I mark down the following on the cover of my notepad for every trip:

* Texture
* Color
* Eyes, ears, nose, tongue, skin
* Heart

When I write, the main two goals are to transport a person to the place I’m describing, and to tell them how to get there. As you take notes, look beyond what you see or how it makes you feel inside - your readers have four other senses just waiting to be stimulated! Do you smell exhaust, wet leaves, or oil cooking in a wok? Can you taste the sweet incense burning in a temple? Is the sun warm on your back? When talking about objects, don’t forget to describe the texture and temperature, rather than just the shape and color.

4. Pay special attention to interactions between people–locals, other travelers, and yourself

It always seems to be the small things that make a trip so special. The smile on an old woman’s face when she sees that you are enjoying a local dish, the scrappy dog that loyally followed you around town, or maybe the flock of uniformed schoolchildren that overran you on the sidewalk. It’s these small, seemingly insignificant things that capture the spirit of a place. Getting these details right (especially about the people) and recording them truthfully separates your writing from the millions of other travel blogs that are out there.

5. Learn to listen

Hearing sounds from the past on your voice recorder will transport you vividly back to the moment and allow you to share that experience through your writing. With a little practice, you’ll be able to help your readers hear the sputtering of an engine, or a heated negotiation in a market. Try recording sounds in ordinary places such as restaurants, sidewalks, and your conversations with taxi drivers. Struggling with writer’s block? Listening to the background sounds of a busy airport will have your heart beating faster.

6. Get your names and details right

Taking note of the correct terms for the local landscape, plants, animals, geology, architecture, weather, and names for common, everyday things will help place the readers more precisely in your story. Sometimes a single word–even if left untranslated–can make all the difference. For example, much of Patagonia is an arid steppe, referred to as the meseta.

7. Practice

The only way to become a better writer is to write a lot. The same goes for becoming more tuned in to the small universe of details around you in any given instant. The next time you get stuck on a bus or standing in a queue, don’t just zone out - get busy, your readers will thank you!

---

Community Connection:

For some examples of extraordinary travel blogs, check out Julie Schwietert’s work, which focuses on Latin America, or Tim Patterson’s blog, which covers everything from the US Economy to Patagonian trout.

Bangkok is a gritty metropolis, a hodgepodge of concrete structures, sparking temples, and disorganized dwellings. Motorcycles continuously weave between cars, smoke billows from food carts, and pedestrians meander through the commotion. Yet beneath the chaotic veneer, more serene aspects do exist, providing a welcome respite for the green-minded traveler.

Getting Around

Several eco-friendly modes of travel are possible, thanks to the efforts of environmental-minded policymakers. Taxis and buses have switched to run on liquefied petroleum gas, a cleaner alternative. Well above the frenetic streets, the electric BTS Skytrain has turned getting around in Bangkok from a sweltering nightmare into a zippy, air-conditioned ride.

Operating from 6am to midnight, the BTS stops at points along three major arteries: Sukhumvit, Silom, and Sathorn. Fares depend on distance, running up to 40 baht ($1.30) per trip. The MRT subway supplements this elevated rail, providing access to points further from the city center.

Carbon-free Activities

Bangkok air is noticeably improving, making for pleasant outdoor activities during cooler hours of the day. Suan Lumpini (MRT: Lumpini), the city’s largest park, teems with fitness fanatics. Join the locals who for free aerobics classes every evening or come early in the morning for group Sun Salutations (BYO yoga mat).

For a more leisurely pace, visit Benjakitti Park (BTS: Asok) on the grounds of the state-owned Thailand Tobacco Monopoly. Rent bikes or pedal boats, or linger in the well-kept gardens for a whiff of the sweetly pungent odor of tobacco leaf processing.

Other parks include Suan Rod Fai (MRT: Chatuchak), a former golf course and favorite venue of film crews; and the funky Suan Santi Chai Prakarn on Phra Athit Road where jugglers, breakdancers, and capoeira artists congregate.

If you have more time, take a day trip to Bang Kra Jao, a relatively unknown green area within city limits. With waterways and paths snaking through near-pristine wilderness, Bang Kra Jao is easily reached by boat. Several eco-tour operators can arrange transport and bike tours.

Temples throughout Bangkok provide a near-instant sense of peace amongst the pandemonium. Some also offer courses. Wat Mahathat on Na Phra That Road is a center for Vipassana (“Insight”) meditation study with daily classes, some in English.

At nearby Wat Po, or Temple of the Reclining Buddha, follow the stone inscriptions of yoga and massage techniques to the temple’s traditional Thai massage school. Inquire about classes or plop down on a no-frills wooden bed for a bone-crunching pressure massage (don’t worry, you’ll be fine afterwards).

Green Eats

Bangkok is famous for its street food and if you have a semi-iron stomach, taste everything, from tangy papaya salad and deep-fried grasshoppers to coconut-based sweets. Squeamish foodies need not fear, however, as fresh markets such as Or Tor Kor (MRT: Kamphaeng Phet) offer similar dishes in a clean setting.

For excellent Thai vegetarian food, visit Anotai, tucked behind a row of shophouses in Soi Rim Klong Sam Sen off Rama IX Road. Anotai serves organic vegetables from their farm outside Bangkok, soy-based “mock meats,” and homemade ice cream in flavors such as santol, custard apple, and atomic orange-colored Thai tea.

Govinda in Sukhumvit Soi 22 provides another unique vegetarian experience. In a dining room adorned with images of Krishna, Govinda serves great pizza and pasta, as well as more creative Italian stuffed “chicken,” “sausages,” and “seafood” dishes.

Near Chatuchak weekend market (MRT: Kamphaeng Phet), Santi Asok, an unconventional Buddhist sect, whips up an organic vegan buffet. Egalitarianism is paramount: communal seating is a must, food is priced at cost, and you must wash your own dishes.

Places to Crash

The Tourism Authority of Thailand has devised a green standard, the Green Leaf Certificate, for hotels particularly committed to eco-practices. From the luxurious Banyan Tree and Grand Hyatt Erawan to the more moderately priced Royal Princess, Novotel, and Imperial hotel chains, there are Green Leaf-certified rooms for many budgets.

For a homey setting, choose the family-run Old Bangkok Inn on Phra Sumen Road. Within walking distance of historic attractions and Khao San Road, the hotel’s eight rooms incorporate recycled hardwood, Thai floral themes, and family heirlooms. Showers dispense solar-heated water and the inn matches guests’ donations to various charities. Rates start at 3,190 baht ($106) per night.

For something completely offbeat, book a stay at the Atlanta Hotel in Sukhumvit Soi 2, identified by the sign “This is the place you are looking for, if you know it. If you don’t, you’ll never find it.” Rules abound at this European art deco-inspired establishment: No sex tourists, no drugs, no troublemakers, no pop music… Proclaiming a non-profit agenda, the Atlanta offers single occupancy rooms for as low as 500 baht ($17) per night.

Heads Up

From March to June, the weather can become unbearably hot and humid. Monsoons arrive in July and continue until October. From a green perspective, this is the best time to visit. Bursts of rain are typically scattered throughout the day, granting a reprieve from the heat, infusing the air with the fresh scent of damp earth (yes, even in Bangkok), and rejuvenating the city’s much-needed greenery.

---

Community Connection

Connect with these matador community members: AsianInsights is an expert on Bangkok and Thailand in general. Ryan Libre teaches photography workshops based in Thailand and Japan. For those interested in volunteering on an organic farm / sustainable community in Thailand, please read the following article.

Taking unique photos of landmarks can be very challenging because postcard icons such as the Eiffel Tower and the Grand Canyon have been shot thousands of times and are instantly recognizable.

Here are a few tips to help you get interesting shots of the same old sights:

Switch your vantage point.

Change your perspective on the subject. Chances are the more common angles you will come across are the full-on shots with people smiling (and sometimes waving) towards the camera.

Try a more unconventional approach by photographing the building or landmark at an angle or a different perspective than you normally would.

Take this example of Gaudi’s famous Casa Batlló. By shooting tightly from the bottom up, it created a more interesting picture. Direct shots of buildings and statues hardly ever make great travel photographs unless you get up really close to your subject.

Shoot in low light.

I remember walking around side streets trying to find the best shot of the Seattle Space Needle. After several fruitless attempts, I decided to ride the elevators up to the top. By the time I was done for the day and leaving around dusk, I looked up at the tower and shot this picture:

Shooting in low natural light such as dawn or dusk adds a certain ambience and otherworldly feel to your popular landmark shots. Another advantage of shooting pictures earlier or later is that the crowds of travelers would have thinned out by then, and you can get a clearer, less busy picture.

Put the landmark in background.

Although popular sights may seem striking, remember that locals live with these monuments as part of their everyday backdrop.

This shot puts the popular National Theatre in Lagos, Nigeria in the background, with the equally important yellow commuter buses in the foreground. This way the image can tell multiple stories.

Incorporate the human element.

Thinking beyond the typical “I was here” shot we’ve all taken during our travels, bring other people into your picture. Examples: a child playing in a fountain, rather than posing with a wide grin. Or someone jogging past a statue instead of posing next to it. You can really change the dynamic of your picture by incorporating a story into it. The child could be taking a dip on a sunny day and the jogger could be using the statue as a mile marker. Not only does adding people creatively into pictures tell stories, it also provides a realistic sense of the scale of the monument in respect to the size of the people in your photograph.

Try a fish-eye lens

You don’t have to shell out hundreds of dollars for an expensive fish-eye lens. Amateur travel photographers can get a small attachable fish eye lens for less than $50. A fish-eye lens can take a simple picture of the popular Carousel at Mermaid Quay in Cardiff, Wales and turn it into in a dynamic and more intriguing shot.

So next time you hit the road, traveling to some place familiar, try one of these tips and you just might be pleasantly surprised with the outcome.

Ruta 40. Patagonia. Photo by Robert Paetz

–Updated 7-8-2008

News

Many of our readers keep up with articles at the Notebook via RSS subscription and so haven’t visited the actual site in quite a while. If you haven’t, check it out. We have a beautiful new theme crafted by Karen Mackenzie.

On a side note, huge thanks go to Arun Kale. Up until now we’ve based the Notebook on his fantastic magazine-style theme for WordPress, The Morning After. Props also go to Christina Lannen for the wonderful work she did customizing the theme.

New Features

Take a moment to explore the new home page. You’ll find updated Contributors’ Guidelines. Whether you’re already a regular contributor or if you’re just thinking about pitching us a story, it’s worth a look.

We also have a newly formatted Subscription page. We’re asking subscribers of our old feed to please switch over to our new feed here.

The Matador Blog Network

The revamp of the Traveler’s Notebook comes in conjunction with the launch of our new Matador Blog Network. In the navigation bar below the header, you’ll find several tabs. “Trip Ideas” will take you to our new site, Matador Trips, which offer stories that “start where the guidebooks end, and lead you straight to powder stashes, secret beaches and sacred mountain peaks.”

A second tab, “Spirit,” takes you to Brave New Traveler, which has been consistently publishing some of the most thought-provoking travel essays and info since 2006.

Finally, the tab “Community” takes you to our home site, Matador, where you can join one of the most vibrant communities of travelers and bloggers in the world today.

We hope you continue enjoying the Traveler’s Notebook, and look forward to hearing from you.

Hemingway’s Iceberg Model

In Death in the Afternoon, Ernest Hemingway states good writing is like an iceberg, only 1/8ths visible, the remaining 7/8ths underwater. In other words, a well crafted story lets the reader’s imagination take over.

One of the goals of travel writing is to put readers in the places we describe and have them come away feeling as if they were really there. In a time when many travel writing markets are online and attention spans are short, Hemingway’s Iceberg model still works better than ever.

Here are eight ways to avoid exposing the entire iceberg, global warming be damned:

1 - The universe likes action. It also likes speed. Use a variety of verbs, keeping “is” in any tense to a minimum.

Editing exercise: Try going through your manuscript and cutting or rephrasing every to-be verb. Example: Whole iceberg: He is an old man. 7/8ths: He bent over the cane, and shuffled forward, a step at a time.

2 - Easy on the articles and personal pronouns.

Editing exercise: Go through your manuscript and cut out every the, an, a, that you can.

3 - Use the first person narrative like salt. It should enhance the story’s flavor without overwhelming it.

Editing exercise: Pick out anywhere in your story where the first-person narrative runs wild, then question: “Does all of this really belong here, or is it part of a different story?”

4 - Pick your adjectives carefully. One brilliant descriptor equals three mediocre ones.

5 - The perfect noun will help with adjective selection. Same goes for verbs and adverbs.

Editing exercise: Research the subject of your story until you fully understand the precise nouns, verbs, and adjectives. Is it a sailboat or a sloop? And when it capsized, were you tacking or jibing? Are the waves mushy or hollow? Go back through your manuscript and replace general words with the perfect ones.

6 - Use photos, music, and other sensory tools to help communicate the essence of what you’re writing about.

7 - Remember you are telling a story. Read it out loud. If it feels awkward, bring out the editorial scissors. Probably 75% of the original draft can be cut without losing the narrative flow.

8- Use description to convey emotions. This is also known as the object correlative. Check here for more details.

Examples from Real Life

In a book review I recently wrote on The Soul of the Rhino by Hemanta Mishra, my original draft came in at exactly 1000 words. Although interested, the environmental magazine’s editors wanted something “short and snappy”. I did not hesitate, cutting what I considered brilliant passages and segues to my own life. Four fifth’s (80%) of the text succumbed to the “Delete” key. The final version, at little over 200 words, will be in print this summer.

Conclusion

Let your knowledge and passion resonate cleanly in the sentences you create. And remember that the beauty of a story is what lies beneath, its fluid movement connected to the small part that shows.

Photo by Mor (bcnbits)

Barcelona might not seem green to the untrained eye. It’s told that at one point in the early 1900s, city planners included one park per city block in the Catalan capital, but somehow that never happened. Still, Barcelona, or “BCN,” has an abundance of small parks scattered throughout the city, plus the beach, and plenty of green travel options. Check it out:

Get Outdoors

Ciutadella Park

Want to go for a walk and see people dancing, juggling, and practicing Capoeira? This is the park for you. Located right in the city’s center with plenty of shade trees, grassy areas, and free entertainment, Cuitadella is Barcelona’s most popular park. If feeling adventurous, rent a paddle boat for a half hour and tour around the man-made pond.

Montjuic Park/Mountain

Take the tram up to Montjuic from the city center and spend the day exploring its trails and taking in views of the city. Most people go to Montjuic to visit the National Art Museum and Miró Museum (highly recommendable), and then leave, missing all the fantastic pathways and hidden fountains. The best course of action is to start with the museums in the morning and then walk down the mountain to get back to Barcelona’s Plaza Espanya. It’s all downhill and shaded with trees. The paths are good and continually cross roads, making it impossible to get lost.

The Beach, but not Barceloneta

Barcelona didn’t used to have a beach. It is, in fact, all man made. That said, the city has done a stellar job of creating a beachy-BCN. Starting with the nude beach south of Barceloneta and extending far to the north, Barcelona’s beaches are packed in the summer with swimmers, vendors, and people basking in the Mediterranean sun. I do not advise the carefree visitor to swim at Barceloneta beach, the city’s closest patch of sand and sea. Frankly, it’s dirty. If swimming without plastic bags and contraceptive devices appeals to you, then go north, and then go a bit further. Mar Bella and Nova Mar Bella are the best bets for taking a dip. The water is warm and the sand is basically clean. If not swimming, any of Barcelona’s beaches are enjoyable.

Guinardo Park

A little known park with winding trails and nice views, Guinardo is tucked into a residential area of uptown Barcelona. Here you’ll find locals walking their dogs and making-out among the tree lined pathways. To get to Guinardo it’s necessary to grab the Metro from the center for a 15 minute ride, getting off at the Guinardo stop, and then walking up, up, up. It’s a steep climb up a series of stairs but the park affords nice views of the city and is rarely crowded.

Collserola Park

Though not exactly in Barcelona, it’s the largest park in the area. With 8,000 hectares of green space, Collserola offers trails for hiking, biking and strolling. As the website boasts, ‘Collserola is 22 times bigger than Central Park.’ So there. This is also the place to go for a BBQ. It’s illegal to have a BBQ within Barcelona’s city limits (but don’t think for a minute that this has stopped people from trying), so those who like to grill flock to Collserola on Saturdays and Sundays. Lucky visitors might spot a wild boar or badger, some of the park’s infamous wildlife. Collserola is a twenty minute train ride from Barcelona’s center.

Photo by Ben Polansky

Go Eat

Want to find the best lunch in BCN? Barcelona’s outdoor markets provide the freshest produce, seafood, and meat available, and are wonderful places to immerse yourself in the local community. Click here for a complete guide.

Our picks for vegetarian and organic dining options:

Organic : In the Raval neighborhood with lots of vegetarian options.

where: Carrer de la Junta de Comerç, 11

Arco Iris Is in the Eixample and has a daily special. They even do vegan dishes.

where: Carrer Roger de Flor 216

Buen Bocado Restaurant: My favorite falafel bar in BCN. Clean, inexpensive and delicious. Perfect for a quick lunch. There is some seating, or take your falafel outside and sit in the adjacent square.

where: Carrer Escudellers, 31, Ciutat Vella

Getting Around…the Green Way

Grab your map and hop on a bike, or a train. (Additional train link here.)

Community Connection

In addition to author and Barcelona resident Regina WB, many Matador members have spent extended time there, including Matador co-founders Ross Borden and Ben Polansky. Check out their blogs and guides, including tips for travel planning in BCN, picks for craziest bar, reports from Sónar music festival, and much more here.

It’s so simple to buy a cheap vintage travel trailer and experience a whole new way of living that I’m stunned more folks haven’t figured it out. Is it a big secret? Too intimidating? It is considered kooky? Well, if you’ve ever dreamed of ditching it all and heading south of the border, here’s a handy guide to get you started on the road to freedom.

1. Acknowledge the Beast Within

Oh, you know what I’m talking about. That little sing-song voice inside calling out when you least expect it. It’s saying, “Are you kidding me, this is my life? Is this all there is? And, I pay how much rent for this dumpy apartment?” If you can just answer with “It’s time to change things” the next time the monster kicks in, you might find yourself calling a tin can box home. And, trust me, you will be the envy of everyone you come into contact with.

2. Research Galore

There are a bundle of websites out there with vintage trailers for sale. You can buy one already restored or you can buy a way old-school one and put your own flair into it. I opted for my own flair. Going this do-it-yourself route allowed me the opportunity to explore options I might not have run across. Things to think about: Do you really need a bathroom? How important is a fridge vs. icebox? Is a shower imperative? For me, none of these things mattered and by not giving a hoot about luxuries, I managed to save loads of money.

3. Time to Drop the Dough

Once you’ve determined what your exact specifications are, it’s time to lay down some dinero. I didn’t want to spend a wad of cash and my deciding budget was based on this simple premise: If the shit hits the fan down a back road in El Salvador and I have to abandon the trailer, what amount of dough will I not miss? I settled on $1,000 for the trailer alone and for this pittance, I managed to get this glorious little 14’ looker. 1967, baby!

4. Get Hitched

Ah, the hitch. I have an old, 2-door Ford Explorer and it was a bit hectic trying to figure out what I needed to be able to lug around 1500 lbs. Turns out that U-haul can install a sturdy trailer hitch ($350) in less time than it took me to down three frosty cold beers at my local cantina. Whatever you do, don’t go to a dealership to get the install done. They will charge much more and babble on and on with warnings, your nerves will be shot before you even pull out of the driveway.

5. Assess Your Needs

Once I had my trailer safely parked in my parents’ front yard, I tore her apart. I got rid of all the previous owners paraphernalia and took a good look at her from top to bottom. I knew some mad decorating was in order, but first I tried to imagine a/ where I would be parking this trailer and b/ what I wanted to come home to once she was parked. My thoughts leaned toward unexplored beach villages throughout Central America, so a cute awning and the ability to generate my own power were in the cards. When you’re dead alone grilling some fish on a deserted beachfront in Veracruz, the last thing you want is an annoying generator to kill the moment.

6. Go Solar

There was a very brief moment in time when I thought my dad and I could just install the solar panel I’d ordered ($400). But once I opened the box and pulled out all the cords and wires and mounts, I took a quick trip down to my local RV center to get some intel. Thankfully, those boys hook up solar panels all the time and they were able to sling the whole kit together on my roof in just a few hours ($200). I used two marine batteries I already had from my sailboat and tucked them away in a closet so they were out of sight. Make sure you put a vent wherever you hide your batteries since you don’t your home to burst into flames while you’re out exploring. In the end, I made sure I was covered for all possible camping scenarios: propane gas, 110 volt power, and solar.

7. Decorate on a Dime

My needs were simple. I wanted a funky global feel with lots of vibrant colors, soft candles, and eye-catching fabrics. I also needed some 800-count bed linen. After painting the interior walls (from station wagon brown to soft eggshell), I did a massive Ikea shop for kitchen supplies, storage containers and rugs. I also recovered the cushions with some old curtains and safety pins. I ended up with a cozy vibe and not a soul would know that I barely spent $100 decorating.

8. Where Ya Wanna Go?

The best place in the world to RV has got to be Bahia Concepcion, a remote getaway on the Sea of Cortez side of Baja. The minute you cross the Mexican border, it feels like you have gone rogue. You can park directly on the sandy beach for a few bucks a night and kayak, swim, fish and drink cervezas to your hearts delight. And, the good thing is that most folks down in Baja are like-minded and trying just as hard as you to get off-grid. Make sure to get Mexican insurance for both your vehicle and your trailer though (1 year $300), since insurance generated in the USA does not apply once you cross the border.

9. Hit the Road

Hauling around a 1500 lb mini-beast is way more doable than it sounds. In fact, these little tin cans are so light, it’s easy to forget they are attached to the back of your vehicle. I’d be hauling down the highway at midnight, texting away and guzzling a Red Bull when I’d glance in my rear view and freak out thinking a blue and white squad car was on my tail. Then I’d realize it was just my little trailer keeping time with me. Driving in a straight line is cake. Hairpin curves are too. Backing up is a different story. But, it’s like a boat. You move the wheel one way and the trailer goes the opposite way. As soon as you make that connection, you could almost pop wheelies with your baby and not think twice about it.

10. Set Up Camp

Your first night camping out will be pretty wild. Once you unload the trailer off your vehicle, all you have to do is put some support under the wheels (rocks will do) and sling up your awning. The sun glazing over your solar panel throughout your trip will have loaded up your batteries to capacity and you’ll be able to power up pretty much anything you might need. Things like microwaves, AC’s, and blenders require way too much amperage for a small solar panel, but that’s what hand-cranked blenders and swamp coolers are for! Time to crack a cold one, gaze at the stars and make some new friends.

Helpful Websites:

The best vintage trailers can be found at Tin Can Tourists.

Community Connection

Photos by Kery Libby

Practical Information

Atlanta’s Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport, considered the busiest passenger airport in the world, is expansive, but the inter-terminal train arriving in two-minute intervals shuttles passengers around quickly and efficiently. Getting from the airport to the downtown area, which is about 15 minutes by car, will take longer by MARTA, the city’s public transportation system, which does have an airport hub. Public transportation doesn’t have a loyal or dense ridership in the South, but most of the places in our green guide can be reached by MARTA, which includes rail and bus service.

The Great Urban Outdoors

Whether you’re a whitewater paddler or a grassy lawn picnicker, Atlanta has an ideal spot for you. Here are some of our favorites:

The Chattahoochee River and Recreational Area: You’ll need a car to reach this National Park Service site, which boasts 50 miles of hiking trails, 48 miles of river for canoeing, kayaking, and rafting (rental gear available in the park), and trout fishing for the angler. There are also trails for biking, mountain biking, and horse riding.

Chastain Park: In the summer, Chastain Park’s amphitheatre is THE venue for music under the stars. Past performers have included hometown duo the Indigo Girls, Norah Jones, Lyle Lovett, and many more. The 2008 calendar features Santana, The Moody Blues, Sheryl Crow, Duran Duran, Donna Summer, REO Speedwagon, and others. Unlike most other concert venues in the country, Chastain still permits picnics during events (bring candles!).

Piedmont Park: Dropped right in the center of the city, the 185 acre Piedmont Park is a hot weekend spot for locals. You can rollerblade, skate, bike, run, fish, grill, and play soccer, tennis, or volleyball on Atlanta’s favorite playground.

University Parks & Greens: Atlanta is a college town, and though their green spaces are often overlooked, these are some of the finest and best tended natural spaces in the city. Our favorites are Emory University’s Lullwater Park and the quads of Agnes Scott College and Spelman College. The Carter Center, associated with Emory University, also has an excellent outdoor park that’s so peaceful you’ll find it hard to believe you’re even in the city.

Arts & Culture

The High Museum of Art: The High Museum of Art has always been the visit-worthy centerpiece of Atlanta’s art and cultural institutions, but a recent renovation and a partnership with The Louvre (yes, THE Louvre) make the High a must-see for the art lover. If time is short, be sure to focus on the Folk Art Collection, which features work by popular outside artist Howard Finster.

National Black Arts Festival: Though the name suggests that this is a summer festival (which it is), the NBAF is also an organization that offers year-round programming at various locations throughout the city. Events include the visual arts, music, theatrical performances, literary readings, film series, and more. Guests are local artistic luminaries and ingénues, as well as nationally and internationally acclaimed performers.

Eats

Arguably the culinary capital of the South, Atlanta has a host of restaurants offering organic and/or locally sourced food. Some of our favorites are The Flying Biscuit, Watershed, Your DeKalb Farmers’ Market (an enormous international farmers’ market and food court),

Shopping

Atlanta’s Virginia Highlands neighborhood is great for walking and shopping, and offers plenty of places to stop for a coffee or tea, a snack, or a meal. There are also green shops along North Highland Avenue, including the organic lifestyle boutique, Eco Bella, and, on Saturday mornings, the Morningside Farmers’ Market.

Lodging

Emory University’s Conference Center Hotel, not just for conference goers, is Green Seal Certified. The hotel is set in a wooded area that’s integrated into the Emory campus, providing easy access to Lullwater Park. It is also within walking distance of a MARTA bus stop.

The Gaslight Inn is consistently ranked as travelers’ favorite B&B in Atlanta, and its location makes it just a short walk to restaurants, shops, and the Morningside Farmers’ Market.

The Atlanta Hostel is for the budget-minded traveler, and is also within walking distance of sights, shops, and restaurants, as well as public transportation.

Community Connection

Various members of the Matador Community are from Atlanta, such as Editor David Miller, and sustainable business entrepreneur Chris Johnson.

Also, a couple prominent members have been road tripping through the ATL lately, including Eva Holland, and Keri Libby, who wrote the the Low Down on How to Throw Down in Atlanta parts 1 and 2.

Cuba seems to be one of the world’s few forbidden destinations. The decades-long embargo all but prohibits travel to Cuba, and the limited opportunities for legally sanctioned travel decrease every year. But Cuba is by no means off-limits, and a trip is much easier than you might think, especially with careful planning.

1) Know before you go.

The Department of the Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control is responsible for sanctions related to the embargo, and the specifics of the law, including how it affects travel, are available online. Although it’s unlikely that you will be detained for questioning upon return to the US, you need to know the law, understand your rights, and be prepared to accept the possible consequences of your travel.

Spend some time visiting online travel forums to read about other Americans who have traveled to Cuba.

2) Choose your gateway country.

The only direct flights from the US to Cuba are reserved for Americans who have travel licenses and Cubans returning to the island who had official permission from the Cuban and US governments to visit the US.

If you don’t fall into either of these categories, you will need to travel to Cuba through a third country.

The Bahamas, Canada, Costa Rica, the Dominican Republic, Jamaica, Mexico, and Panama are some of the most popular gateway countries.

Prices and flight schedules vary considerably, as do local practices of immigration officers willing to forgo stamping your passport upon return from Cuba.

Mexico is among the easiest of the gateway countries, with flights departing daily from Cancun and Mexico City on Mexicana and Cubana airlines. How do you choose the gateway that’s best for you? Research. As you’re planning your trip, consider the following:

Flight availability and prices

Determine which airlines offer service from the gateway country to Cuba (Havana’s airport code is HAV), how often, and at what times. Follow pricing trends to determine whether certain days of the week are more affordable than others.

One tip: When checking flight schedules and prices online, be sure to enter the country of origin as the gateway country; otherwise, you’ll quickly learn that you won’t retrieve any information.

Frequency of flights

Flights to Cuba from any gateway country and on any airline are often delayed or canceled, so consider countries that offer more flights and flexibility. Make room in your budget for lodging and meals in the gateway country in case you are overnighted.

3) Prepare for the ticket process.

Americans are accustomed to booking most of their flights online, but you cannot use a U.S. credit or debit card to purchase a flight to Cuba, even if you are buying the ticket from a gateway country’s airline (such as Mexicana or Air Jamaica) by phone or over the Internet.

You may be able to convince a phone agent to hold a reservation for you, but the more likely scenario is that you will purchase your ticket after landing at the airport in the gateway country. Once you know what airlines offer flights, and what their schedules are, you can plan your arrival flight into the gateway country.

Once you land, you will go to the counter of the airline with cash to purchase your round-trip ticket to Cuba. Don’t forget to budget $15 for a tourist visa, which the airline will sell to you directly.

4) Prepare your paperwork… and your pesos.

U.S. passport and border crossing regulations became more stringent in January 2008. The more identification you carry with you (passport, birth certificate, driver’s license), the better, but do not offer all of your identification unless asked.

About those pesos… they can facilitate your return trip considerably, especially in Mexico. When you enter and leave the gateway country on the way to Cuba, your passport will be stamped.

When you return to the gateway country on your way back to the U.S., your passport is likely to be stamped again unless you make a polite request—accompanied by pesos folded inside the passport—otherwise.

5) Prepare for Cuba’s entry and exit requirements.

Cuba does not stamp Americans’ passports upon entry or exit. Cuban immigration will stamp your tourist visa, which is not affixed to your passport, upon entry and exit. Cuban immigration officials will often ask where you are planning to stay during your trip.

You should have the name and address of a hotel or casa particular prepared to offer up to Cuban immigration officials, who can decide whether they want to confirm your reservations. If you don’t have a reservation, they can compel you to make one before leaving the airport, though this is uncommon.

Do not lose your tourist visa, as you’ll need it upon exiting Cuba, and don’t forget to set aside 25 CUC (the Cuban currency) for the required exit tax, which you’ll pay at the airport on your day of departure.

6) On the ground basics

There are two currencies in Cuba: moneda nacional (also referred to as the peso) and the Cuban convertible (also referred to as CUC). Tourists use the CUC, and money can be exchanged at Cadeca booths throughout the city or at hotels. American issued credit and debit cards cannot be used in Cuba, so be sure to carry plenty of cash.

Community Connection

For more resources to help you plan your trip, please see Matador’s Before You Go Guide and the guide to the 10 Best Nightlife Spots in Havana.

“What makes a good photograph?” Ryan Libre questions. “Simplicity. Showing everything you need , and nothing else.”

Click on the Play button to listen along and learn more.

---

Along with Ryan Libre, the Matador community is filled with passionate digital photographers. Delacouri has amazing shots from her time working with endangered monkeys in Vietnam. Veronica has incredible images of Patagonia. Rob has taken hundreds of priceless shots from all over the world. Phishtopher has some amazing images from his life in Western China. And both Beija-flor and AsianInsights are experts at photographing people. Grady, MST and Reed Lindsay can give you tips on digital video production and goodman is without a doubt, one of the most gifted photographers on the Web.

Join them. Matador is blossoming…

---

When planning a trip for a number of weeks there is often the temptation to spend your hard-earned cash on gadgets and accessories that will supposedly enhance your travel experience.

There are some that undoubtedly have their benefits where you realise you can’t live without them and others that will languish unused at the bottom of your rucksack for the entire trip.

The following, however, will be about as useful as a chocolate teapot and should be avoided at all costs.

1. The Travel Clothesline

This is essentially a piece of twisted elastic rope with two small rubber suckers at each end. The typical experience with one of these is as follows:

You wash your clothes. You hang the line up from one end of your room to the other. Your clothes are wet and heavy. You quickly discover that the weight limit of two small rubber suckers is one very small handkerchief. Your freshly washed clothes inevitably end up on the dirty floor. After the first attempt of using the line, it usually ends up being thrown in the bin in a fit of rage.

The one I bought completely disappeared, possibly catapulted out the window in a bizarre case of clothesline suicide. I can’t say I blame it.

2. The Underwater Money Belt

Money belts are meant to be discrete. Once you’ve managed to cram all your valuables inside the belt and put it under your swimming costume, there seem to be bulges in all the wrong places.

Whether you are male or female, this is probably not the look you wish to go for on the beach of a faraway island. Added to this is the fact that they are uncomfortable, rub in inappropriate places and may even leak if not zipped up correctly.

My advice would be to leave your essentials locked away back at your accommodation – many places will have a safe you can use. You can then enjoy the water without fear of all your money getting soggy or your passport becoming illegible.

3. The Disposable Underwater Camera

Snorkelling can be hours of fun. However, if you try to capture anything of the experience with a disposable underwater camera, you will almost certainly be disappointed.

Unless you are very lucky, have the sunlight illuminating just the right spot and the subject manages to swim into the frame at exactly the right moment, the photographs you take will be grainy, dark blue, blurry shots that will not win any awards.

They will probably contain the fin of a fish in one corner of the picture and you will have to convince your friends and relatives that it really was a shark/barracuda/marlin that you saw on your trip.

Your memories of a place can be tarnished by these poor photographic souvenirs - leave them intact by using your eyes rather than a cheap camera lens, which is best employed on the beach or when splashing around above (rather than below) the water.

4. The Toiletry Organiser

You might think the idea of having your shaving foam, toothpaste and all the other things that will make you smell nice neatly arranged in one bag is the smart way to travel.

In reality, it will take up far too much of your valuable luggage space. You’ll also be itching to get out and see all the sights at your chosen destination rather than fastidiously unpacking every single item from your bag and inevitably you will end up living out of your rucksack.

This is not a bad thing; unpacking and repacking when you are moving from place to place every few days is rather tedious. Leave the toiletry organiser at home but do remember to wrap your shampoo and shower gel in several layers of plastic to ensure that you don’t end up with dodgy-looking stains on your clothes.

5. The Hessian Sack

I admit that this is not strictly a gadget or an accessory, however it was a terrible idea and one worth noting for its stupidity.

Before my round the world trip, I was rather paranoid and thought that camouflaging my rucksack with a tailor-made Hessian sack would stop it being stolen when I was in India. What I didn’t count on was the fact that Hessian is an incredibly itchy fabric, so much so that I wasn’t even able to go near it without feeling the need to scratch.

I then discovered that the in-built waterproof cowl was just as good for concealment of my baggage. Suffice to say, the sack never made it on my world trip.

This is by no means an exhaustive list and there are probably thousands of companies all over the world dreaming up ideas for new travel gadgets for the gullible consumer to purchase during their pre-trip excitement.

I am sure that in the not-too-distant future we’ll have jetpacks fitted to our rucksacks and use satellites and GPS to find our way through the jungle. Until then, remember there are some good gadgets and some truly awful ones.

Regardless of what you end up taking with you, it is important that you don’t let your possessions overshadow your travelling adventures.

When you think of the nation’s capital, low carbon footprint and green living don’t exactly come to mind, especially when you find yourself sitting in traffic for hours on the I-495 beltway. However, Cooking Light magazine recently ranked Washington, D.C. third on its top 20 healthiest U.S. cities list. The city was evaluated on its abundance of organic markets, expanse of green space for an urban area, and its pedestrian-friendly atmosphere.

Practical Information

By air, you’ll probably arrive into one of DC’s two major airports - Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport (DCA), or Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD). From DCA for just $1.65 one way, the city center is a short 15 minute subway ride directly from the airport. From IAD, a $9.00 bus pass on the Washington Flyer coach bus drops you off at the Metro West Falls Church subway station in about 30 minutes or the cheaper Metrobus takes you directly to L’Enfant Plaza station for just $3.00

If entering the district by train, all Amtrak, MARC and VRE commuter trains arrive into Washington, D.C.’s Union Station. From there, you can connect with its metro rail system and ride around the city. By bus, the Greyhound Bus Terminal sits directly behind Union Station on the Metrorail’s Red Line. Washington, D.C. boasts one of the cleanest and most accessible subway systems in the country and also covers significant areas within its neighboring states of Maryland and Virginia.

Landmarks

Washington, D.C. is renown world-wide for its wealth of museums per square area from the instantly recognizable Washington Monument to the Smithsonian Institute with its slew of free museums. The landscape is dotted with history-laden memorials such as the Lincoln Memorial, Jefferson Memorial, National World War II Memorial, Korean War Veterans Memorial, and Vietnam Veterans Memorial, most within walking distance from each other if you’re up for the task or at the very least metro accessible.

Arts and Culture

There is no shortage of things to do in Washington, D.C. and the Washington Post maintains an extensive Arts and Culture guide to the city.

Markets

From the freshest fruits and vegetables to other home-made organic products, you’re sure to find what you need in one of Washington, D.C.’s numerous farmers’ markets. The famous Eastern Market, located on 7th St. between C St. and North Carolina Ave is the only 19^th century market in the region still operating today. In addition to a farmers’ market which is open on Saturdays and Sundays, it hosts a flea market and an arts and crafts market. Other area markets include FreshFarm markets which organizes markets in neighborhoods such as Dupont Circle, Foggy Bottom, and Penn Quarter with over 30 farmers providing fresh bread, poultry, prosciutto, cheeses, and pies in addition to produce. Be sure to check out About.com’s comprehensive listing of Washington D.C area markets.

Green Space

Known as American’s Front Yard, and an instantly recognizable sight in movies such as Forrest Gump, the National Mall is a large city center park which links various monuments and connects key government buildings. On any day, rain or shine, you can find residents jogging or simply enjoying an outdoor lunch in the park. There are many other green spaces and trails around the District. The enormous Rock Creek Park, twice the size of New York’s Central Park, Potomac Park, as well as Anacostia Park which boasts recreational opportunities such as boating provide solace from the urban jungle. Also located in DC, is the United States National Arboretum, a major center for botanical research with a wide assortment of flora and trees.

Eats

It’s no secret that the nation’s capital is a cultural melting pot of influences from all over the world. From neighborhoods such as Chinatown to Dupont Circle, a bad meal in D.C. is pretty hard to come by. However, there are a couple eats going the extra mile. Cashion’s Eat Place located in the famous Adams Morgan district provides a slew of scrumptious, organic dishes. Restaurant Nora is an upscale restaurant and was the first to be certified organic in the country. Hook located in Georgetown provides seafood and other local organic produce. The wildly popular and eco-friendly hotspot, Java Green, is setting a great example by using wind power to offset its carbon footprint, using biodegradable products, and supporting small farmers by participating in fair trade. VegDC, touted as the vegetation guide to Washington, D.C. provides a listing of restaurants and organizations.

Sleep

Green TravelHub provides a list of “green” hotels in the D.C area from the low end Days Inn to the pricier Fairmont Hotel, all doing their part to conserve energy and water using efficient lighting, low flow showers and toilets, and actively recycling. For the budget conscious traveler, the American Guest House Bed and Breakfast located in Dupont Circle provides quaint rooms and complimentary hot breakfast serve daily. The Kalorama Guest House is a bed and breakfast with two locations: a Victorian townhouse in Adams Morgan, and a location in Woodley Park On the high end, Hotel Palomar located in Dupont Circle is an eco-friendly boutique hotel that recycles, provides organic beverages, using soy-based ink, uses energy efficient bulbs, and uses low flow systems in an effort to conserve water and reduce its environmental impact.

Other Information

Green Festival held every year in the District and other cities around the country is a way for environmentally conscious organizations and individuals to trade ideas, network, and build the promote lifestyle. Other great resources include National Geographic’s Green Guide and GridSkipper’s Your Eco-Friendly Guide to the District.

Many outdoor enthusiasts spend summer, spring, and fall weekends on their favorite trails, but tend to hibernate during the winter months. If you fall into this category, you are missing out on something special. These following 10 tips will get you geared up for a safe, comfortable winter hike.

1. Dress like an onion.

The Quebecois have a saying, s’habiller comme un oignon, which literally means to dress like an onion, in layers. This is especially important when hiking in colder weather, as temperatures can vary at the bottom of the trail and on the summit of the mountain. Having a variety of insulating clothing will help you regulate your body temperature and stay comfortable. I like to wear a layer of long underwear, a light fleece or soft shell jacket, and waterproof pants. I keep an insulated jacket (either down or synthetic loft), fleece pants, and a waterproof shell jacket in my pack in case of foul weather. Always wear thick, winter-weight socks, since your toes are the first place you’ll feel cold. It’s also a good idea to have two layers of gloves or mittens, one for insulation and one for waterproofing. An outfit like this will keep you dry in case of precipitation and warm when you reach an exposed area or summit.

2. Start small and start early.

When planning your first winter hike, be reasonable about the distance and difficulty of the trail. While it might be a cinch to do a twelve-mile loop in summertime conditions, you may run into ice or deep snow on the same trail during the winter. Also, many access roads to your favorite trailheads are closed and unplowed over the winter, which could add significant mileage to your trip. There is nothing quite as frustrating as wading through waist deep snow for miles on end, so choose a trail you know you can handle without difficulty.

Also, be prepared for some early mornings. Don’t forget that the sun sets much earlier in the winter months. Plan to be off the trail before dark to avoid getting lost or having an accident.

3. Bring safety gear.

There are a few basic items that every winter hiker should carry in case of emergency. Aside from basic hiking gear, you should always have a trail map, a first aid kit, a compass, a pocket knife or multi-tool, hand warming packets, and a headlamp. For a day hike, it’s a good idea to split up some of the heavier safety items among the members of your group. Avid outdoorsman Frank Gibbons, who hikes and backpacks year-round in New Hampshire’s White Mountains, warns that even day hikers should be prepared to spend the night in an emergency. “Every member of the group usually carries some emergency gear like a bivy sack or sleeping bag, down parka, cell phone, sleeping pad (for laying someone down if he is hurt), etc.” While it may mean that your backpack is a bit heavier, it may also mean that you avoid frostbite if you have to stay on the mountain overnight.

4. Check the weather.

While this might seem like an obvious step, it’s important to get a complete picture of the conditions for your trip, not just the temperature. Look at the precipitation, wind speed, avalanche reports, and daylight hours. I spoke with Peter Crane, the Director of Programs at the Mount Washington Observatory. He advises winter hikers to become knowledgeable about winter weather: “Do your research, learn about winter conditions and how they vary from summer conditions. It’s really a different world in the winter. A dozen people have died on Mount Washington due to avalanches. When you get above tree line, you have the added challenge of finding your way in limited visibility, or even whiteout conditions.” Be sure your hike is planned for a day when conditions are manageable. The good news is it is very easy to find this kind of weather information, and if the conditions are scary, postpone your hike.

5. Learn to use crampons.

When the trail is icy, crampons can make the difference between summiting and turning around, but if you use them improperly it’s easy to injure yourself. If you’re new to crampons, read up on techniques and try them out on an easy trail. Practice putting them on and taking them off. Have a more experienced friend show you how to use them going uphill and downhill. I’ll never forget seeing an obvious beginner jog nonchalantly down an icy rock face in his crampons. One misstep, one stumble, and he could have cut open his leg or sprained an ankle. Take it slow when you’re starting out to avoid accidents. Never forget that crampons are in fact metal spikes attached to your feet!

6. Take an experienced friend.

Hiking with friends is always the way to go, especially in the winter. Not only is it more fun to share the adventure with others, but it’s also safer to be with a group. An experienced friend can help you with choosing gear, using crampons or snowshoes, and identifying dangerous conditions. Also, avid winter hikers usually have extra gloves, hiking poles, and goggles laying around that you could borrow to fill out your packing list. Be sure to leave at least one friend at home who knows where you’re going.

7. Make tea or cocoa.

It is essential to bring plenty of water when hiking in the winter, as dehydration is a common problem. Add some comfort to your trip by making tea, coffee, or cocoa in a lightweight portable stove, or carrying it with you in a thermos. A hot beverage can warm you up and provide a nice break from the hike. If your water is room temperature, it’s less likely to freeze and it will boil faster. There’s nothing like a hot cocoa break to motivate you for the summit push.

8. Invest in good gear.

While no two packing lists are exactly the same, there are some basic items that every winter hiker should be prepared to buy. Most avid winter hikers invest in the following items: crampons or snowshoes, waterproof pants and jacket, knee-high gaiters, waterproof boots, an insulated jacket, a lightweight backpack, hiking poles, a camp stove, hats/gloves, and goggles or wrap-around sunglasses. While it’s tempting to take the cheap route and get sub-par gear, I recommend looking for end-of-season sales and coupons instead. Look at www.rei.com/outlet or www.backcountryoutlet.com for closeout items. It can be expensive when you’re getting started, but most of the gear you pick up can be useful in the summer season as well.

9. Be prepared to turn around.

Legendary mountaineer Ed Viesturs (who has climbed every 8,000 meter peak in the world) once said, “Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory.” Echoing this sentiment, Mr. Crane told me, “The mountains have been here for a long time, and they’ll be here for a long time still.” Don’t hesitate to turn around if you run into conditions that look dangerous. Reaching the summit of a peak is just half the journey, and you must have time and energy left over for the descent. Focus on the entire trip, not just the ascent.

10. Treat yourself to a great meal.

Lastly, be sure to reward yourself for a job well-done. When I come off a mountain, I like to find the nearest source of comfort food. Sometimes it’s a cozy bar with great burgers, sometimes it’s a lively pizza place. No worries about your appearance and aroma; restaurants at the base of any big peak are used to hikers stopping off for a meal.

While there are many considerations when transitioning from casual fair-weather hiking to winter expeditions, these tips should get you started on year-round adventures.

Photo by Malthe Sigurdsson

Creating a great shot, interview, or montage takes more than walking around with a video camera glued to your eye. These four tips are the cornerstones of making great travel videos.

The Light Side of the Force

The most important factor in video is lighting. Insufficient light makes videos grainy and dim, and affects blurriness and capture rate. Video cameras don’t “see” as well as humans do in the dark or indoors, so low-light videos are often very disappointing compared to “the real thing.”

You don’t always have a choice about lighting, though. Inside museums and cultural sites, the lighting is carefully selected to reduce light damage to cultural artifacts, and flash photography and videography are prohibited. For these situations, use a tripod or monopod or other stabilizer, and avoid walking shots. Stop, take your video from a stabilized position, then turn off the film and move to your next position.

Outdoors, you have the best source of light: the sun. The problem with sunlight is that harsh sun results in harsh shadows, often under the eyes and chin for human subjects. Overcast (but not rainy) days are best for shooting video, or you can put your subject underneath a shading tree. Just be sure they’re not standing with bright sunlight directly behind them, to prevent silhouettes.

Most night videos are a blur of moving shadows and lights, and fail to adequately portray that night carnival, street musician, or midnight walk on the beach. Show up an hour before sunset to start filming, stabilize your camera, try to find locations with more light than you think you should need, and be patient with the outcome.

Can you see the colors?

Color is a great way to highlight a story. Cities tend to be gray and brown. Woods are green and brown. The sky is blue or gray. As a result, colors that are not green, brown, gray, or light blue stand out in video.

Stained glass windows in red and blue and gold, a bright red parrot, a field of orange pumpkins– these colors grab our attention and keep it. When you set up a shot, use contrasting color to your advantage. Wear a red shirt if you plan to be on camera. Pick a bright yellow harness for your rock climb– it’ll be easier to see from a hundred feet below.

Color can also set a mood. Blues and greens are calming, red is exciting, and yellow makes people happy. If you want to emphasize a relaxing time at the beach, frame your shot to show more sky and sea. To emphasize your exhilarating salsa dance lessons, focus on dancers in red clothes and rely on ambient lighting to help tell the story and set the mood.

Ready Set Action!

The big advantage video has over still photography is the action. Pay attention to what’s moving in your video, because that’s where the viewer will look. If you have a lot of motion in the background (such as a crowded market), the foreground must be well lit, colorful, and audible in order to keep the viewer’s focus from drifting around to the background noise.

Focus your video on the thing that’s moving fastest or with the widest range of motion. Again, stabilize your camera with a tripod or monopod, and keep the subject in the center of the frame, following it as it moves.

Can You Hear Me Now?

Sound is tricky, and it’s the part that’s hardest to fix or fake in the editing room. If you stand in a crowded street fair talking to a friend, your ears automatically try to filter out everything except your friend’s voice. Your video camera, however, does not do this important noise-canceling, and your friend’s voice is overwhelmed by the background noise.

Similarly, when you try to record the speech of someone on the other side of a crowd of people, you record more sound from the people around you than you will from the amplified speaker.

The best way to fix this problem is to avoid it in the first place: record your friend’s voice using a separate microphone. A unidirectional or shotgun microphone, aimed directly at your friend’s mouth and recording directly to your camera, is best for picking up his words.

In the case of a large crowded speech or event, if you can tap into the soundboard or P.A. system, that’s ideal. But in most cases, you don’t have that choice. Try to get as close as you can, use a microphone if you have it available, and position the microphone above the heads of the people around you, to move it away from their voices.

Some alternatives to a microphone are recording a voice-over during editing, or putting your friend somewhere easier to hear, like next to a wall or away from the noisy street. Unfortunately, moving your subject might not be feasible or plausible, and the voice-over is only practical if you aren’t trying to record a person while they speak.

Follow these tips and tricks and you’ll have more exciting videos of your travels and adventures to share with friends or just relive your experiences!

---

Shipping companies travel nearly everywhere. Photo by Josh Sullivan.

I have always wanted a collection of brown leather trunks with brightly colored stickers from all the world’s corners. They remind me of travelers in the early 1900s who spent days on the ocean in order to reach their destinations. Back then, arriving at the destination was as much a part of the trip as the destination itself.

So when I needed to get from Guadeloupe in the Caribbean to France I asked myself, “is it still possible to travel by boat?” A few months later I was on a CMA-CGM cargo ship headed from Pointe-à-Pitre to Dunkerque.

My nine days on the Atlantic included gourmet French food, duty-free Porto and hours spent mesmerized by the blinking lights of the GPS. Yes, you can definitely still travel to many locations in the world by boat.

Here are some pointers for researching and planning your own adventure on the high seas:

1. What exactly is traveling by Cargo Ship?

Most of the major global shipping lines CMA-CGM, Canada Maritime, and Bank Line offer paying passengers to hop on one of their lines. As a paying passenger you are accommodated in guest cabins and have access to most areas of the ship.

Captains and crew spend a lot of time on the water, and they are usually happy to have a fresh face walking around their workplace, meaning that they may even invite you to eat with them, give you tours of the ship and maybe even have you over for an Officer’s happy hour.

2. Where can I go?

You can travel almost anywhere by cargo ship.

The global shipping industry is huge, and many ports like New York, Shanghai, Los Angeles, and Sydney welcome several ships everyday.

Shipping companies have certain lines covering specific routes, and many of them will allow you to buy a ticket for one of these lines and disembark and board as you please as long as there is a ship leaving on your chosen day.

This is often how round the world routes work: book your freighter ticket and then plan in a few weeks in every major port. With freighters, the possibilities for your adventure are almost endless. Just think: anywhere global commodities are shipped are places that you can disembark and spend time soaking up the local culture before re-boarding.

3. What will it cost?

A common misconception is that if you are willing to spend an extended amount of time on open water you can score an inexpensive mode of transportation to your next travel destination.

Although there are possibilities to work on boats, traveling as a passenger is in fact more expensive than your average airfare. But before you scoff at the price – plan on an average price of $80-140/day – consider this: your ticket pays for room, meals, and a plethora of experiences that cannot be had anywhere else.

4. Life on a ship

As a passenger you are surrounded by the everyday life of the vessel and her crew. Schedules revolve around mealtimes, which can be extravagant events depending on the chef.

If you are a gourmet traveler, consider traveling with one of the French companies which are known for their high quality cuisine and table wine.

Besides meals, the rest of the day is spent as you please. Make your way up to the bridge and chat with the captain about sea navigation or schedule a tour with the head mechanic to see the vessel’s impressive technical insides.

You will quickly find that the freighter environment is a rough but enjoyable one; think lots of steel and salt water. Before the evening meal, meet for a pre-dinner drink with your co-passengers in the guest lounge area and discuss the events of the day.

You may think that a week on open water can give you a case of cabin fever, but a slower pace of life can be much welcomed and enjoyable.

5. Planning

So you’ve decided that freighter travel is for you, what now? Do your internet research, there are several websites maintained by individuals seduced by traveling on the high seas with great tips and long lists of different routes around the world.

Go to the websites of the freighter companies and send them an email asking about passenger fares. Another option is travel agencies that specialize in freighter travel like A la Carte Freighter Travel based in Montreal.

Some helpful websites to get you started:

www.hamburgsued-frachtschiffreisen.de

>www.cma-cgm.com

www.aws.co.uk

www.geocities.com/freighterman.geo