the traveler’s notebook

10 Ways Music Connects Travelers

28 Nov 2007 in Top 10 tips by Jenny Williams

Back before YouTube, people got their entertainment from minstrels traveling town to town with their harps and epic poem-songs, telling stories of the wider world (and hopefully getting a free bed in the process). Modern troubadours might not score free bunks, but—whether you’re a player or enthusiast—music still has the power to connect people in surprising and profound ways. Here are ten reasons to pack that harmonica and keep your ears tuned for the local stuff.

1. Local music is a direct line into the culture. Some musical traditions go back hundreds and thousands of years and are intricately tied to social or religious aspects of a community’s culture. By exposing yourself to locally brewed sounds, you’ll have the opportunity to educate yourself about other elements of that region’s people as well.

2. You can learn about music from other travelers’ countries.
You never know what might happen when you pass the guitar around at a hostel. You could get Russian ballads, Cuban jazz, Celtic folk, Spanish flamenco, or Argentinean tango—all while sitting on the beach in India. Hard to find a better forum for world music than that.

3. You can share your country’s music.
One night in Durban, South Africa, I was jamming with some local musicians; when I busted out the bluegrass, they were totally bowled over. By sunrise, they were playing “Over the Waterfall” like they’d been doing it all their lives. We created a link where there was none before; it was an incredible feeling (and if Bela Fleck sees a surge in overseas sales, I humbly accept full credit).

4. You can learn to play a new instrument.
There are an astounding variety of musical instruments out there, from the balalaika to the berimbau, the esraj to the erhu. Why cling to the guitar when you can try your hand at the gopichand? You’ll add depth to your musical repertoire and dig beneath the surface of the local culture at the same time.

5. You can bond while waiting for your bus.
Music can happen anytime, anywhere: in the courtyard of your hostel, on a train station platform surrounded by luggage, or in the back of a bouncing tuk-tuk. Think of all the times you end up sitting around waiting for something, shuffling your feet, rereading your Lonely Planet for the gazillionth time—you can fill those moments with music instead and interact with the people around you.

6. Music transcends language and culture. You don’t need to speak Kiswahili to feel the groove of Kenyan hip-hop. And the people you meet don’t need to understand English to appreciate your version of Dylan’s “Subterranean Homesick Blues.” You can communicate a lot without sharing a language, as long as you’ve got passion and a shared sense of the human cause.

7. It’s a portable party.
A handful of travelers plus a few beers equals a chill night. Add a guitar or an iPod with speakers and you’ve got a party. It’s one of the best ways to invite other people into your circle (especially if they’re shy or don’t speak your language), and if they have mp3s to share or are musicians themselves, it will only amplify the fun.

8. You can spread a political message. In many developing countries and regions of conflict, music is one of the most powerful ways of communicating a cause or opposing oppressors. Help the message go viral by getting it on tape (it’s easy to outfit an iPod with a microphone for recording) and spreading it to the world.

9. You can create something new.
Some of the greatest musical traditions—including reggae and rock and roll—came about by combining earlier styles together in unique and interesting ways. On the road, you’ll have no shortage of inspiration from local traditions and other travelers. Try putting a Caribbean beat behind a sitar melody line and mix in some gospel harmonies. Start a band with one member from every continent (okay, Antarctica might be tough), and relish the fusion that follows.

10. Music is free. At least, the music we create ourselves is. Think about how much money we spend entertaining ourselves on the road, with drinks, cover charges, transportation, and craft shopping at the overpriced tourist market. Why not skip the spending and get a jam session rolling at your guest-house? Recruit your dorm neighbors and the guy who works at the front desk—see what y’all can come up with.

_______________________________

A regular contributor to Matador, Jenny Williams, a former national soccer player, quit a job in book publishing to travel in the Middle East, Africa, India, and Southeast Asia.


Don’t Pay Bribes: Strategies for Border Crossing

27 Nov 2007 in How To by Buzzy Gordon

Photo by Andrew Miller

It has long been known that land border crossings can be anxiety-provoking affairs. I first learned this sad fact of travel life as a backpacker in the mid-1970s.

Although I had not anticipated this particular problem in advance, I found that I had stumbled on a solution when seeking a way to avoid shakedowns by Mexican police and other corrupt law enforcement personnel.

If you have never written your congressional representativebefore, on the eve of your trip is the perfect time to start.

Power Of The Pen

Your best weapon against attempts at soliciting bribes and other hassles instigated by officialdom is the power of the pen — especially when wielded by an elected representative of the superpower of the western hemisphere.

Before traveling anywhere, contact the local office of your representative in the U.S. House of Representatives.

Tell them that while you are not planning on traveling anywhere dangerous, you can never be too careful; therefore, you would like to have a letter from the office of the Congressperson requesting, akin to what it says in your passport, that the reader grant safe and secure passage to the bearer of the letter and extend every courtesy to speed the traveler on his/her way.

When you present the letter, be sure to say something like “the Congressman/woman is a friend of mine (my parents, my boss, etc.), and he/she will be notified if I am in any sort of trouble.”

In fact, if you know someone who knows the U.S. rep (or someone on his/her staff) well, ask him/her to request the letter, which can then vouch for you, the traveler, as a person of good character. Of course, if you know someone who knows your Governor or U.S. Senator, you can go with that option.

Take A Letter

Another kind of letter worth having is one from an international organization with branches in the United States and the countries you are visiting.

For example, the Sister Cities organization twins cities and towns in the United States with counterparts in other countries.

Check whether your city has such an arrangement, and have the appropriate person write you a letter of introduction to the liaison person in the foreign city you plan on visiting. If necessary, show the letter to the border official and tell him that you are expected by a very important person in his country.

This can be even more influential than the congressional letter, since the correspondence involves a local.

Be creative and obtain as many letters as possible; most people have ties to more than one city: where you grew up, went to college, where your parents are from, etc. And who knows? You might decide to look up the local Sister Cities committee and be pleasantly surprised with a warm welcome.

Work On Your Charm

Of course, it is altogether possible that with a little charm and an inexpensive gift of friendship, one can avoid either the necessity of brandishing the letters on official stationery, or at least mitigate any unpleasantness caused by having produced one or both of them.

Travel with a stash of souvenir-type gifts that you can give out as gestures of good will, or with some inexpensive electronic gadgets that appear impressive.

In the former category can be things like bottle openers, key chains or baseball caps with symbols of your home state, city or university. The latter could be items like laser pointers, calculators or digital mini-voice recorders. Don’t carry too many of any one thing, lest you be accused of trying to do business or importing commercial samples.

In an offhand way, indicate that it gives you pleasure to give gifts that are reminders of your home, or small tokens of appreciation to people that are helpful to you in your travels. You can even say something like, “I don’t know if you are permitted to take gifts in your job, but I would be pleased if you would accept this [whatever the gift is or symbolizes].”

In the case of a present that does not have an obvious connection to your city or state, you can suggest vaguely that it is manufactured by a “friend of the family.”

Keep Your Cool

I can assure you that if you keep your cool and carry yourself with confidence, you will sail through border crossings that sometimes trip up other travelers who are less prepared.

And once you have used these tips and passed your first customs-and-immigration test, you will have the tools and self-assurance to start to relax and truly enjoy your adventuresome journey.

Worth Buying a DSLR for Your Travel Photography? Take this Quiz

Photo by Ryan Libre. www.idioimagers.org

Digital SLRs are very popular items these days, especially among travelers. This article will explore the fundamental differences between a DSLR and a compact digicam, plus the facts on what a DSLR can and can’t do. We will end with a quiz to test if you’d be better off with a lighter pack and a point & shoot.

The two fundamental advantages of SLR:

1) You can see the image
just as it will appear (through the lens).

2) You can change the lens.
Number one is no longer exclusive to SLRs. Every digicam on the market today has a large LCD that lets you see “live” what you will take. In many ways they are more advanced than DSLRs, (Example: Allowing you to actually see the change in brightness or White Balance before you ever take the photo.)

So now we are left with changing lenses as the only fundamental difference. If you got a DSLR would you buy, and carry, multiple lenses? (opps did a say a quiz question already?)

The major things a DSLR can do for you:


1. Wide angle.
Some compact cameras go as wide as 28mm, however that is just the starting point for wide angle on a DSLR. I shoot over 50% of my photos between 15-28mm. (extra lens needed).


2. Rapid adjust without taking your eye off your subject.
Any decent DSLR has physical buttons on the body to adjust all but the most advanced features. I only look in my menu a few times per month, yet make 1000’s of changes to my camera settings. The advantages of this are enormous. Because they are so accessible I can actually use them. Some compact cameras have lots of adjustments accessible through the on screen menu, but out of sight means out of mind and even for the few who still use these features it’s at least twice as time consuming. Which translates to missed shots and bored friends.

Photo by Ryan Libre. www.idioimagers.org

3. Depth Of Field This is the DSLR / professional look that many people are spending for, then only part of the image is in focus, as in the example here. Compact digicams are very bad at this, putting everything in near perfect focus, often leaving you wondering what the subject is.

What a DSLR can’t do…

1. Make you have a good eye for composition.

2. Make your subjects act natural.


3. Get you out of bed at 4am.

4. And make you a good storyteller.

These are the things that make great photography, and spending 1000-5000$ on a DSLR won’t change one of them.

Is it worth buying a Digital SLR for your travel photography?

A DSLR and a 18-200 Zoom is a nice entry level kit. But if you stop there, is it really worth the investment in terms of money and carrying the extra weight? There are many compact digicams on the market that have the same zoom range that are ½ the price and ¼ the weight. When you can really start making use of your DSLR is when you carry several lenses. However this requires further investment of space in your travel bag and money from your travel budget. Also with a DSLR, now you need a better and bigger tripod, more batteries, and a special bag just to carry it all.

So before you take the plunge, take this quiz and see if you are ready. Ten questions: answer yes, no or maybe.

1. If I got a DSLR I would purchase and bring several lenses even though it would cut into my travel budget and add pounds to my pack. Yes, No, Maybe

2. I often make use of the setting available on my compact digicam. Yes, No, Maybe

3. I know how aperture affects a photograph or I’m interested to learn. Yes, No, Maybe

4. I often miss a shot because I’m looking through the menu trying to adjust a setting. Yes, No, Maybe

5. I sometimes take a photo and think to change some settings and shoot it again, but don’t because it takes too much time to find the setting I wanna change. Yes, No, Maybe

6. I’m interested in photography as a serious hobby and maybe even a part time job. Yes, No, Maybe

7. I’m often not satisfied with my photos when I come back from a trip. Yes, No, Maybe

8. I secretly wanna be a National Geographic Photographer. Yes, No, maybe

9. Having good photos is more important than traveling very light. Yes, No, Maybe

10. I spend more time window (internet) shopping for a DSLR than using my compact camera. Yea, No, Maybe

Give yourself 1 point for all No answers, 2 points for all Maybe answers and 3 points for all Yes answers.

And for the results….

11-15 Take the 1,000$ you saved for a DSLR and go to Thailand for a month with your point and shoot ^_^

16-22 First borrow your friend’s DSLR for a few hours or days and see if it’s really worth the investment. If you like it, sleep on it and then consider taking the plunge.

23-28 Go for it feeling pretty confident that your investment will pay off with practice.


29 or 30
Start shopping today and consider a mid to high range model that your serious interest can grow into.

_________________________

Ryan Libre

Matador’s expert on Hokkaido, Ryan Libre is a freelance photographer based in Japan and Thailand. Please visit his online gallery at www.idioimagers.org and join him for a photo workshop in Chiang Mai or a hike in Hokkaido.

Top 5 European Travels for a Falling US Dollar

22 Nov 2007 in Podcasts, Top 10 tips by Craig Martin

Paceville, Malta. Photo by Heini Samuelsen

Visit the oldest buildings in the world, eat and drink in Transylvanian towns or hike through Latvia’s national parks. Not your thing?

Then party in Paceville or Riga before chilling out on a Bohemian river bank with hot mead. No? Then get lost in Europe’s strangest city after passing by a Frank Zappa statue. You can’t tell me that doesn’t appeal!

But does it all sound too expensive, especially with the way the US dollar is going? Fear not, Malta, Romania, the Czech Republic, Lithuania, and Latvia will still treat you right. Listen to this podcast and we’ll prove it to you.

 
icon for podpress  Top 5 European Countries For a Falling US Dollar [4:06m]: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

_________________________

Exchange Rates:


Malta
1 US$ = 29 cents. Switch to euro 2008, 1US$ = 68 cents

Czech Republic
I US$ = about 18 koruny (crowns)


Lithuania
1 US$ = 2.35 litas


Latvia
1 US$ = 0.48 lats

Romania
1 US$ = 2.37 RON (Romanian new lei)

The Top 10 Hostels in Europe

21 Nov 2007 in Top 10 tips by Nicholas Bowditch

Hostel Beer. Photo by Jai

“When you get to Brugge, you HAVE to go to this hostel my brother’s flatmate’s girlfriend stayed at…”

“Geez don’t stay at that hostel when you are in Budapest, the night manager was SO RUDE to me when I stayed there in 1993…”

“There’s this hostel kind of near the old town … close to that big statue … there’s no sign on it … you can’t miss it!”

All helpful advice from your friends aside, it’s not hard to find a bed in Europe. There are more than 100 “hostels” in London alone. Some European hostels are like palaces – some actually ARE palaces – and some look (and smell) like a teenage boy’s bedroom.

So here it is – the definitive list of the top 10 Hostels in Europe – well my ten favorite ones anyway.

10. Foresteria Valdese - Venice, Italy

Boasting 18th century architecture right down to the Bevilacquan frescos in the ceiling, this place is the old guest lodgings of the Waldensian and Methodist Church in Venice. Centrally situated to all of Venice’s beautiful attractions, it has some of the best value accommodation in this very expensive city with dorm beds starting at 24 Euros including breakfast.

9. Cardiff Backpacker’s Hostel - Cardiff, Wales

To say this is a fun kind of place is a massive understatement. It is the only hostel located in central Cardiff and they offer big discounts for guests to attractions like Cardiff Castle and Millennium Stadium. The whole vibe of this place makes you feel welcome and with a great bar, no curfew on weekends, and beds from 25 Euros, it is easy to see why this one makes the list.

8. Flying Pig Hostel - Amsterdam, Netherlands

There are actually three Flying Pig Hostels in Holland but our pick is The Flying Pig Downtown. Situated in the heart of the red light district and right next to Amsterdam Central Station, it is very central and close to the city’s main attractions including the Royal Palace and the Waterlooplein Markets. They have a comprehensive website complete with forums and dorm beds start at 14 Euros.

7. Kabul Hostel - Barcelona, Spain

In a city where there are maybe 100 places to stay in its heaving main street, Las Ramblas, this hostel manages to retain 100% occupancy for almost every night of the year. With no single or double rooms and dorms with up to 20 beds starting at 17 Euros, Kabul is not for the faint hearted (or those wanting a solid night’s sleep) but let’s face it, that’s not what you go to Barcelona for!

6. 3 Ducks Hostel - Paris, France

With my Mum’s words, “If you’ve got nothing nice to say, say nothing at all” ringing in my ears I am going to say nothing about the most tourist-visited city on Earth. However, if you find yourself in the city and want to find a bed that won’t cost the chemise off your back, then the 3 Ducks is the answer. Dorm beds start at just 19 Euros and its location can’t be beaten.

5. Balmer’s Herberge - Interlaken, Switzerland

This place is amazing. Set amongst the magical scenery of Interlaken, Balmer’s is like an inexpensive oasis in really expensive Switzerland. Reeking of Swiss efficiency, cleanliness and order this hostel and tent village deservedly makes my top 5. Make sure you check out their Biergarten with cheap drink deals and great food. Dorms are priced from 18 Euros.

4. Kismet Dao - Brasov, Romania

The first offering from Eastern Europe is also one of the best. The management is part-Romanian, part-American and part-Korean and all of those influences are reflected in this quirky but very friendly place. Dorms start at 11 Euros and that includes breakfast and laundry service but best of all, FREE BEER! They still would have made the list without the free beer. Really they would…

3. St. Christopher’s Inn - London, United Kingdom

With so many hostels (good and rubbish) in London, it was always going to be hard to choose just one but I believe the St. Christopher’s Inn at The Village, London Bridge is the pick of the whole city. Part of a chain that includes hostels all over the UK, France, Belgium and Germany, The Village basically gives you everything you want from a hostel: cleanliness, fun, friendly staff and cheap (for London) beds which start at 28 Euros.

2. The Pink Palace - Corfu, Greece

OK the self-proclaimed “World Famous Backpackers Paradise” might be a bit of a stretch, and there are certainly better (and quieter) places to stay in the Greek Islands but The Pink Palace is something of an institution. Maybe the only hostel in the world that guarantees to turn nobody away, regardless of whether you have a booking or not! The list of activities and free inclusions is endless and dorms start at just 20 Euros.

1. Friendly Fun Frank’s Hostel - Riga, Latvia

If I was ever going to open a hostel somewhere in the world I would want to make it just like Friendly Fun Frank’s. This place has everything: great location, cheap prices, excellent local knowledge, social tours that drag you from one great nightclub to the next every night, and all in a place that is set into the walls of Old Riga’s medieval castle. Maybe it’s the 9 Euro dorm beds or maybe it’s the fact that Frank (an Australian ex-pat) only seems to employ ex-winners of the Miss Latvia beauty pageant but Frank’s is easily the best hostel in one of the best cities of the world.

So there you have it. Hugely subjective and heavily biased towards free beer and beautiful Latvian girls but my top ten just the same. How many of these would make your top 10?

______________________

Check out Nick’s blog on Matador: “How to go from being a traveler to a tourist in 5 easy steps.”

Top 10 Surf Spots (for Mortals) in Hawaii

20 Nov 2007 in Top 10 tips by Spencer Klein

Kehena, Hawaii. Photo by elrentaplats

Hawaii is the most geographically isolated landmass on the planet, and for some that means only one thing: groundswell. Everywhere, in every direction, the currents of the Pacific are churning up the winds, storms, and fetch that ultimately source these islands with their world class waves. Below is a list of the best places to get wet if you have never been to Hawaii.

. . .the island juice is no myth; ocean conditions here are worlds away from your local beach break.

To be sure, there are far better waves than those listed below, but they are unlistable for various reasons. Take Kauai, for instance; there is nothing more to hide - the world already knows what waves exist, just look at a map, but why then is any photo of Kauai’s best wave still flipped, and never named, when it’s printed in any surf mag? Because respect is a crucial element of the Hawaiian surfing experience; and with reason - the island juice is no myth; ocean conditions here are worlds away from your local beach break.

But still, come surf, it’s Hawaii, the Duke would have wanted you to. For the full rundown of breaks, grab “Frank’s Map” at any surf shop. In no particular order….

Ehukai Beach Park (North Shore, Oahu)

Straight out from the parking lot of the same name, are several shifting peaks that work on everything from a west to a windswell wrap from the east. Sandy bottom is scattered with random fingers of rock. Generally a good place to come if you are beyond a beginner, but still getting used to things. Great place to get the feel of Oahu’s North Shore. Pipeline is immediately to the left, and when it’s big enough, it essentially swallows all the peaks of the beach park. Come here to watch Pipe or sight Tom Curren; across from Sunset Beach Elementary.

Laniakea (North Shore, Oahu)

On a big north, Lani’s is a freight train right that can connect for an extremely long, fast ride, with four or five makeable sections. Deep water wave, but still barrels with the right conditions. Very consistent with any swell that has a bit of north in it; doesn’t work at all on pure west swells. Good place if you’re looking to blend in - the “town” crowd from Honolulu loves this wave, and thus there are always different faces in the water. There is a shorter, hollow left as well, that can be very fun. Seen in the big opening along Kam Hwy as you head east from Hale’iwa. Caution: parking lot thieves run amuck.

Backyards (North Shore, Oahu)

The first time I surfed ‘Yards it went from a playful head high to a widow-making triple-overhead in 40 minutes, and I had to paddle out and around the entire point in a heap of anxiety to get in, so take note. Very fast, advanced wave with a steep wall, thick lip, and shallow reef below. Good barrels. Swell magnet from all directions, but works best on a NW swell. Can get very, very big, and often has less of a crowd than other spots. Further out on the point from Sunset. Access from the shallows at the tip of the point.

Caution: reef, clean up sets.

Sunset (North Shore, Oahu)

Sunset is one of the most fabled right hand points there is, and thus attracts many a soul the world over. In that sense, you can surf it without worry (crowd-wise) if you let your hyper-paddling habits subside. Surely not a wave to be taken lightly though, even at a playful three feet Hawaiian. The wave turns very fast and hollow as it emerges and walls up quick from deep water; famous inside bowl throws way out for a good, heavy barrel.

You need some length and paddling strength in your board here; very thick wave and can be difficult to get into. Prepare yourself to get washed and bashed around on the reef when you see that rogue set swing wide from the west; you’ll certainly be caught inside.

Caution: shallow reef, heavy lip, clean-up sets.

Hookipa (Paia, Maui)

Between Haiku and Paia is Maui’s most consistent wave, or waves, and it happens to double as one of the best windsurfing spots in the world. All the various peaks can be seen from the bluff along the Hana Hwy heading east from Paia. The most hierarchical spot is Pavillions, the right that comes off the far east point; otherwise, there is much range of skill found in the lineups of the other peaks; still, keep respect. Catches everything from the big WNW’s to the easterly windswells. Very exposed to the wind, so get up early before the wind does, and then hit it again late in the afternoon; with Kona winds, you score! Park in the parking lot below the bluff, and follow someone else into the water (and out).

Honolua (North Shore, Maui)

Honolua is one of the magical waves of the world, a flawless right point that seems to peel into infinity - when you happen to catch one. The crowd here is dense, but the joy of one ride makes it all worth it, especially that crisp barrel through the cave section.

Somewhat sheltered from the islands to the north, the swell window here is smaller than most other spots, and thus it works much less often; best on a big NNW swell. The trades that plague most of the rest of Maui, work fine here, to make a consistent side-offshore breeze. Again, when you connect one, the wave is simply magical.

Park on the bluff above, follow someone out.


Velzyland (North Shore, Oahu)

Everything considered, VLand is probably the most risky inclusion on this list. Shallow, extra sharp reef, a heavily localized pack, and a barrel that seems to suck dry, make for a serious North Shore experience. Respect here (for everything) is vital.

This marks the end of the “seven mile miracle,” the opposite end being Haleiwa’s Ali’i Beach Park. Park along Kam Hwy, and walk through the gate at Sunset Beach Colony. Paddle out from directly in front of the peak. The wide open barrel is unreal, but caution: sharp reef, shallow, crowd factor, locals.

Hanalei (North Shore, Kauai)

This is maybe the only wave on Kauai that you are allowed to mention in a public arena. Lucky for us, it’s a great wave, a peeling right point that works on most winter swell directions. Good fun when it’s smaller to grab a longboard and go make friends in the lineup - then you might find out about those other waves around the way. The bay here is pristine, and so is the town by the same name. On the far north east side of the point, towards the Princeville. Can get very big, and very good.

Canoes (South Shore, Oahu)

This is the jumping off point for the Waikiki surf adventure, and the rest of the south shore as well. Every surfer must come at least once, and there are few waves as friendly to teach your new ladyfriend. While generally a friendly wave, this whole shore turns on several times a summer, firing off exceptional waves. Those roadbumps beneath your board are not coral heads - they’re either the innocently ignorant Japanese tourists, or the equally benign, pasty-white Oklahomans.

On the south shore you can surf fifteen different spots in a single session, so paddle around and explore - that’s what the Duke did. Straight out, fittingly, from the Duke Kahanamoku statue in Waikiki. For more juice on this side of the island, seek Bowls, Kaisers, or the wave in between the two, aptly named Inbetweens. Looking out towards Diamond Head, imagine the Hawaiian legend of the wave the Duke caught way out on the point and connected all the way to the sand, right where you get your favorite mai-tai - the restaurant by the name of Duke’s.


***Surf tip of the day:
Apply that sunscreen twenty to thirty minutes before you hit the water to preserve the ever-fragile coral reef. Coral really is an animal, not a plant, and it literally suffocates from the sunscreen that leeches off your back! And don’t walk on the reef - you wouldn’t walk on any other animal!

_________________________

Spencer Klein

Spencer Klein’s ideal place to watch the sunset: “Seen September Sessions? From one of those hollow ones during F Stop Blues in the last section.”

Top 10 French Schools for Waves, Wilderness, and Bons Temps

19 Nov 2007 in Top 10 tips by Sandra Konta

Chamonix

Looking to learn French while you surf, dive, or spend time in the mountains? The following schools give you access to some of the world’s most revered terrain. And, yes, they provide top-level schooling and offer internationally-recognized diplomas and certificates.

1. INSTED makes it their business to combine extreme outdoor fun with high caliber language study courses. Nestled at the base of Europe’s highest mountain, Chamonix Mont Blanc, France offers premier glacier descents, ice climbing, snowshoeing and alpine skiing (primarily red and black resort trails and a range of primo backcountry couloirs). Take a break from your studies and hut ski from Chamonix to Zermatt, Switzerland on the “haute (high) route,” one of the world’s premier backcountry routes. During the summer months, Chamonix’s playground shifts gears but is equally alive — mountain biking, rock climbing, mountaineering, rafting, paragliding, canyoning and trekking, just to start. The school is partnered with the Université Stendhal in Grenoble and offers a wide array of levels, credits and certifications (TCF). Classes range from 440 euros (two weeks of study) to 2,250 euros, depending on what level of language proficiency you wish to attain. Priced separately, studio, apartment and homestay options are available.

2. Check out INSTED’s school in Biarritz if your adventure setting of choice is the water. Biarritz is considered Europe’s surfing capital. INSTED Biarritz teaches according to the levels defined by the Council of Europe. Open April through October, INSTED Biarritz is priced at 275 euros per week with a minimum commitment of two weeks. Homestays and shared or independent apartment living options are available.

Le Cours d’École

3. Le Cours d’École in Papara, Tahiti is a family-run school set on an exquisite lagoon. You’ll be able to snorkel on your lunch break! There are legendary surfing beaches in both directions. Head up into Tahiti’s mountains for a tropical hike. The school evaluates its students according to the levels defined by the Council of Europe. Students can then choose between individual or group instruction, which ranges in price from 400 euros per week for group instruction (four hours/day) to 900 euros per week for 4 hours of private instruction per day. School staff will assist in finding homestays (half board and full board options), an apartment or room for accommodations.

4. The Center for International Cultural and Educational Exchangescalls New Caledonia home, a small French territory in the South Pacific, it boasts the world’s largest tropical lagoon and second largest barrier reef and is a diver’s paradise. The school is located in Nouméa (tons of dive shops), the island’s capital and is a two-minute walk from white sand beaches. The Center provides DELF instruction along with study options catered to your level, individually or in groups. Homestays can be arranged.

5. Media Langues Caraïbes enjoys a Caribbean landscape on Guadeloupe, which is known as “Karukera” or “island of beautiful waters” by the Caraïbe Indians. Kayaking, surfing, deep sea diving, windsurfing and sailing are all readily available. The Council of Europe also guides how the school assesses and teaches its students. TEF certification and semi-intensive (20 hours/week) and intensive (30 hours/week) individual and group (limited to seven) lessons are available starting at 290 euros per week. Another option - French lessons combined with surf camp or hiking and kayaking. Homestay, self-catering apartments, hotels and tourist residences are available.

6. Point 3 Language Center in Montreal, Canada teaches French in the morning and has its students out on the slopes skiing or snowboarding in the afternoon. During the summer, the school offers a French study and hiking combo. The school doesn’t advertise a recognized system of instruction. Individual, group and intensive French study options exist. Classes start at 525 Canadian dollars per two weeks. The school offers a homestay, apartments, and a student residence.

Tahiti

Alliance Française: The following four schools profiled are Alliances Françaises. They are part of a worldwide network of independently-run associations (in 130 countries!) that originated in France and have the joint goal of spreading French language and culture. They offer extensive, high-quality French instruction and varying diplomas and certificates. Most evaluate and teach according to the levels defined by the Council of Europe. Check with each school for details. You will need to arrange housing independently in these locations.

7. The Alliance Française in Cape Town, South Africa provides an extreme landscape nestled between Table Mountain and the Atlantic Ocean. Whether you’re kloofing Cape Town’s suicide gorge, sandboarding down South Africa’s dunes or cage diving with great white sharks, you’ll wonder why you didn’t visit earlier. Other adventure opportunities: abseiling, kite surfing, skydiving, surfing, abseiling, paragliding, mountain biking, rock climbing, sea kayaking and hiking. South Africa’s Alliance Française is the largest and oldest French language school in Africa. Looking for a quieter setting? The Alliance Française offers classes in Fish Hoek, a beach town 35 miles southeast of Cape Town on False Bay.

8. TheAlliance Française in Auckland, New Zealand, is found just south of the Bay of Islands, where you’ll find world-class sea kayaking. Interested in whitewater rafting? Check out the Christchurch Alliance Française where Zealand’s extreme (class 5) rafting on the Rangitata River is only moments away. Email allifran@xtra.co.nz for details.

9. Alliance Française (site in Spanish or French) in La Paz, Bolivia is an idyllic city setting for those of you who find your peace hanging of the face of a mountain — it sits at an altitude of 11,181 and provides a perfect opportunity to combine French lessons with world-renowned climbing trips. Favorable exchange rate currently available.

10. The Townsville Alliance Française is on Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. Enough said.

_________________________________

One of Matador’s newest contributors, Sandra Konta is a writer turned social worker turned writer with a social conscience. She currently lives in Denver.

How to Work New Zealand’s Wineries

18 Nov 2007 in How To, Travel and Adventure Jobs by Liz Lewis

Wither Hills Vineyard. Photo by Phillip Capper

From following the “Harvest Trail” to visa information, here’s everything you need to get started working the vineyards of New Zealand.

In New Zealand, a framework of industry standards was developed over 10 years ago to ensure that winegrowers focus on improving and maintaining the environmental integrity and ‘clean-green’ image of their wine production.

Most wineries and vineyards around New Zealand now have accredited vineyard status which allows them to display the Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand emblem. A list of these accredited wineries and website.

The Harvest Trail

There are hundreds of vineyards and wineries in New Zealand and most are on the lookout for seasonal workers to prune and help with the harvests.

Remember, seasons are reversed in the southern hemisphere, with harvesting occurring in between February and April and pruning from June to August.

Workers are also needed from November to March for general tidy up and vineyard maintenance.

Because New Zealand’s ten wine regions are spread from the top of the North Island to the bottom of the South Island, it’s possible, with careful planning, to follow the ‘harvest trail’ and pick up vineyard jobs in different parts of the country.

For example, chardonnay grapes are harvested in the warmer and more humid northern regions (Northland, Auckland, and Gisborne) in late February and early March, whereas further south (Central Otago), these grapes are often not harvested until mid to late April.

Wine ready for harvesting. Photo by Rae Allen.
Online and Offline Resources

To help decide when and where to go, your first port of call should be the Horticulture New Zealand website to look at the Seasonal Work Brochure.

This brochure provides a comprehensive calendar that highlights what seasonal work is available each month of the year.

It also has a list of contacts that can help with your search for work and accommodation.

Other useful websites include Seasonal Work NZ, which maintains a Harvest Trail list where you can type in the location and month to get current job openings, Wine Jobs Online, a database of viticulture jobs ranging from winemaking to harvesting, Seasonal Jobs in New Zealand, and Backpackerboard.co.nz , which maintains a list of seasonal jobs, as well as providing everything you need to know about transport and accommodation.

But not all resources are online. Once you are in the country, a great way of finding seasonal work is by checking out noticeboards.

Target your wine region and once you’re there, head for the local New Zealand Employment Service and eyeball the noticeboard. At harvest time there should be plenty of jobs to choose from. Noticeboards can also be found at supermarkets, shopping centers, and backpacker hostels.

Other effective ways of finding seasonal work include looking for signs on local winery roads, reading local newspapers, and knocking on doors. Many of the areas will also have a Seasonal Work Coordinator - just ask at the local tourist information center.

Visa Information

The Working Holiday Visa is a necessity for anyone considering seasonal work in New Zealand. No one will employ you without it. The visa is available to those between the ages 18 and 30 and lets you live and work in New Zealand for up to 12 months.

The specific requirements vary depending on your citizenship. The New Zealand Immigration Departmentwebsite has an easy to follow page dedicated to the Working Holiday Scheme outlining these requirements.

Click on your home country for instructions. It’s also important to note that you will need a New Zealand income tax number in order to be employed.

So what are you waiting for?

Community Connection

For New Zealand contacts, including local experts and fellow travelers, plus organizations, blogs, and more, check out the New Zealand page here at Matador.

How to Make an Audio Tour: Ten Tips from Audissey Guide Pioneer Rob Pyles

16 Nov 2007 in Featured, How To by Steve Holt

Let’s face it – when it comes to highlighting diverse and wonderful locations around the world, words sometimes don’t cut it. Travelers want images. They want sounds. They want local flavor. They want authenticity. They want the next-best-thing to actually being there.

A good option for expanding your travel documentation and reporting into the realm of new media – which, let’s be honest, is both the present and future of the industry – is the audio tour or podcast. The pioneer of the mp3 audio tour industry is Rob Pyles, a twentysomething whose “aha!” moment came while he was hitchhiking through the Irish countryside in 2000. As he traversed the Emerald Isle, he’d come across remote historic locations – old castles and battlefields, for instance – that didn’t even have as much as a sign telling him what happened there.

“It was frustrating because you knew these places had these incredible stories, but you had no way to connect with them,” Pyles said.

Out of this frustration grew the concept for “progressive audio tours,” and from this concept – once mp3s and iPods had gone mainstream – Audissey Guides was created. Starting with his hometown, Boston, Rob produced an audio experience that takes travelers beyond the tourist traps, guidebook clichés, and group tours to the places locals take their visiting friends. With a local narrator, hip yet relevant music, ambient sounds, and off-the-beaten-path stops, Rob’s goal is to get people involved with their surroundings.

“It’s definitely not a passive experience,” Rob says of his audio tours.

Audissey’s resume now includes five U.S. cities – Boston, Seattle, Chicago, New Orleans, and Miami – with several international cities on deck. Rob was recently awarded a contract by the City of Boston to produce a series of audio guides for the many miles of pathway around the city’s harbor waterfront.

For aspiring travel journalists or amateur globetrotters, audio is one of the best and yet under-used media for highlighting great travel spots. But before you whip out your hand-held recorder and go to town, consider the following tips for producing your own travel audio tours or podcasts that don’t suck, straight from the audio guide pioneer himself.

1. Keep it real. “Stick to what you know,” Rob says. “People know when you’re talking about stuff you don’t have a clue about. So talk about what you know and what you’re interested in.”

2. Use your independence.
“Take advantage of the fact that this is an audio tour by taking people where they can’t go in a group. When you’re on an audio tour, you can go down tiny alleys that you can’t go down when you’re on a tour bus, or you can actually go eat inside a bar or a café. Use that.”

3. Facts are good, but so is emotion.
“When I think ‘audio tours,’ I think of something that puts you to sleep. Very dignified, but totally boring. People want facts, but they also want personality and emotion.” Tips: make the delivery of the narrator less formal and more conversational and use background music that is influenced by the city or place you’re describing.

4. Make it personal. “We like to have a very, very strong first-person narrator. It not a voiceless, omniscient narrator, it’s Claudia Verela, the bartender and bikini model in Miami Beach. It’s Kevin Coval, the Jewish hip-hop poet in Chicago. The tour is almost like an extension of them – ‘this is my town, this is my neighborhood, that bartender is a friend of mine.’ It’s a very personal experience.”

5. Get a decent mic and a quiet room. “I’ve heard audio tours where you can hear people talking behind the narrator, lots of background noise. Not everyone has access to a professional sound studio, but at least find a good microphone and a quiet room to work from.”

6. Ambient sounds are good. “We always walk through once with a microphone recording the sounds of the city. A revolving door, for instance, has a distinct sound that is really cool. There’s something about walking down Hanover Street [in Boston] and hearing Italian men yelling at each other.”

7. Music: Tough, but awesome.
“Music takes the listening experience to a whole new level, and it helps capture the flavor of a city. It’s unbelievable how each city tour has taken on its own personality – the music just feels like that city. The Miami tour is a lot of salsa and meringue, but also a lot of Reggaeton, club music. Seattle’s is way more chill – a lot of down-tempo beats, some electronic stuff, experimental stuff. That’s a departure from other audio tours with canned music or no music at all.”

8. Keep things moving – short and sweet.
“People have a very short attention span, and anything over an hour is completely lost on people – their eyes begin to glaze over. So you’ll have to decide which stories to leave out of the tour. Our tours are also short from a distance perspective, rarely over a mile.”

9. Surprise me. “Give me something I never expected on this tour. In Boston, we take people to the former headquarters of the mafia. In Seattle, we incorporate public transportation by telling listeners to get on a bus and get off at the Seneca stop. We don’t tell them where Seneca is; they have to ask someone on the bus where Seneca is, forcing them to engage a local person. The things you don’t expect are the things you remember.”

10. As a narrator, I am your friend.
“The narrator should be casual, funny, personal, un-touristy. Our philosophy is that our audio tour is the next-best-thing to knowing someone in the city. Narrator delivery should be like it would be to a friend: relaxed, occasionally irreverent, authentic.”

To truly know where Rob is coming from, though, you have to listen to one or two of his audio guides. Rob says his guides are unique because they appeal to “travelers, not tourists.” Travelers, he says, are interested in genuinely exploring the culture. Tourists simply follow other tourists and receive a superficial cultural experience. Rob himself is an avid traveler, and his intrigue with the history and beauty of the world around him is clearly why he does what he does. In fact, when pushed on this point, the truth comes out regarding Rob’s real motives.

“This is all just an excuse to pay for our travel,” he says with a laugh.

______________________________

One of Matador’s newest contributors, Steve Holt is a freelance writer living in Boston, eager to explore the world and tell its story.

How to Find Your Way when You’re Lost

15 Nov 2007 in How To by Jacob Bielanski

It’s a pretty common story. You’re walking through a new town or patch of forest, certain of your path. Upon turning around, the labyrinth shifts and your senses unravel. You panic as everything begins to seem unfamiliar. The light is fading. You need to find your way and you need to find it now.

Study a map

Look at where you’re going, and where you’re going to be. Look for anomalies, particularly large ones. The highest peak, a river, a statue or major street will not only help you get your bearings but set you up for the next step to your preparations.

Note the direction and location of these landmarks. Even a simple tourist map will help you identify boundaries and directions. Johnson Street runs East-West, Dragon’s peak is northeast of your campground, Blood River runs north south and meets the nearest town. All are important facts; write them down, if you can.

In the city, note major, rigid streets. This is particularly important in large, old cities like Dublin, where 90 degree intersections are in short supply.

Finding North in the daytime

In the woods you have many options. The stick method is one quick way to find east and west. Jam a stick in the ground and mark the tip of the shadow in the dirt. Wait 10-15 minutes and mark the tip again. A line drawn between those two goes East to West in the northern hemisphere and West to East in the southern hemisphere.

Nature gives a few indications as well. An old adage is that moss favors the north side of trees while spider webs tend towards the south. Traveler’s Palms’ branches point east-west. The movement of the sun and clouds are very rough indicators, but don’t rely too heavily on them.

In the city, look for grid structure. Even well planned cities will have anomalies, so be aware of angled streets and curves. Pay particular attention to any streets that meet at 90 degree angles, as this will suggest North-South and East-West arrangement. They will also provide a great panic azimuth (more on that later).

Use intersections as reference points and glance behind you periodically. In large urban areas particularly, the path ‘there’ can look remarkably different than the path ‘back’. If you need to ask for help, an intersection will favor you much more than a vague description.

north star


Finding North in the darkness

The North Star has been the trusty tool of navigators in the Northern Hemisphere for eons. Pointing yourself in its direction in the dark will point you north. If you’re following a different course (e.g. West), stop periodically to relocate the star and check your bearings. As long as the North Star stays to your right, then you’re heading West. It is the first star in the little dipper, or if you cannot locate the little dipper, use the “top” of the ladle in the big dipper to draw a line that “points” to it. This only works in the northern hemisphere.

Southern Cross

The Southern Cross

In the southern hemisphere the most prominent constellation is Southern Cross. The longer axis of this cross will direct you to an imaginary point in the sky. This point is 5 times the length between the two stars of that axis. A line drawn straight from that “point” to the ground marks South.

Urban Environments

The stars will disappear in urban environments, making navigation dependent on landmarks. It took a country bumpkin like me a few years to figure out that not everyone navigates the same way. In small towns and rural areas, street names become relatively ineffective in describing your location to others, but in cities they’re a savior. Like using the grid on a topographic map, intersection will pinpoint your location easily. This is particularly important when calling for help. Larger cross-street signs will also indicate the direction you’re traveling (e.g. “Foster Ave N” indicates that you’re heading northbound and have intersected with Foster Ave.).

Panic Azimuth

The concept of the panic azimuth is that, when all is lost, walking in “x” direction will take you to a key landmark that you can follow to safety. For example, if you’re on a hiking trip west of “Monkey River” and you’re two miles upstream from town, then all you need to do is maintain an azimuth of 90 (or East–azimuths are read in degrees from North) and you’ll run into the Monkey River. Follow that, and you’ll find your way home.

The same principle applies to cities. Noting North-South and East-West streets will give you a reference point for finding your way back. Head east till you hit Johnson street, then walk north till you hit the intersection you recognize. Be weary of unsavory neighborhoods, particularly at night. A large amount of empty lots, an absence of regular lighting or bars on the windows of most buildings should be an indication that you need to get to a phone and get assistance. Note the intersection nearest the phone.

As the saying goes, and ounce of prevention beats a pound of cure. A little bit of research into the place you’re going–whether to downtown Sydney or the Smoky Mountains–will go a long way in keeping you safe, long before you’re lost. A lot of these outdoor tricks will fail you in inclement weather, so having a small compass on you at all times is just good practice. of course, it won’t do you any good to know which direction you’re pointing if you don’t know where you are going.

______________________________

A regular contributor to Matador, Jacob Bielanksi is currently working on a project uncovering how the US government obtains data on travelers.

10 Tips for Packing Up and Living Abroad

15 Nov 2007 in How To by Julie Schwietert

From the philosophical to the practical, these top 10 tips will help you plan for a temporary or permanent move abroad.


10. Examine your expectations.

Visiting a place as a tourist or a traveler, however immersed in the culture you might be, is entirely different from living there. This point seems obvious enough, but in the excitement of just thinking about moving abroad, it’s frequently overlooked. It shouldn’t be. This is one of THE most important preparations you will make in your moving process. What is motivating your move? What do you hope to lose and to gain in the process? How do you expect your life to be different?

9. Find home sweet home.

You may not have a home before you move to your adopted country, but you should have all of the documentation that you will need in order to be able to get one. The requirements for renting and buying vary significantly from one country to the next, and once you’re abroad, it can be difficult—and expensive—to put together the paper trail of your past.

To the greatest extent possible, find out in advance what kinds of documents you’ll need—you might want to read expatriate online forums (example: Buenos Aires Expat Group) to get ideas / info. You can even reach out to individual users— people on these forums typically love to share their knowledge and experiences. At the very least, prepare a package with several photocopied sets of the following documents: the photo page of your passport and identification card, tax returns, bank statements, a list of past addresses where you’ve lived, a list of past employers, and a list with complete contact information for three to five references.

8. Stay in Touch.

The world is globalized, but one of the frustrations that can complicate the early phase of living abroad is figuring out how to stay in touch with the family and friends you’ve left behind. Avoid the expense of this learning curve by figuring out the telephonic, internet, and snail mail options that are available and what you, as a foreigner, will need in order to establish service. Again, expat forums are a good source of information. If you plan to establish a nomadic lifestyle, consider options that can be portable, moving with you every time you pull up stakes.

Voice over internet phone (VOIP) technology is improving significantly, and a single number and account can keep you in touch with loved ones no matter where you are, minimizing the need to make changes in service and keep your contacts up to date every time you move. One of the biggest VOIP providers is Skype .

7. Making the Move

You’ve defined your expectations, done your homework, and now you’re ready to move. Almost. What are you taking with you and what are you leaving behind? Don’t leave these questions for the last minute. If you are planning to move furniture and other large household items from one country to another, this will require a significantly different level of planning than just moving you and your rucksack.

If you plan to pack up your worldly possessions and ship them abroad to your new home, start planning at least three months in advance. You will need to determine what companies offer shipping service between the originating and destination countries, what their policies are (some require a home visit BEFORE packing to provide an estimate), what their prices and payment options are, whether they are bonded and insured (a critical point- please don’t overlook this!), and what kind of reputation they have.

Again, don’t skimp on this point. Moving companies—especially for international moves—are poorly regulated and it is not infrequent for customers to be scammed, resulting in the loss of money and possessions, as well as precious time. Check the reputation of the companies you’re considering, (another good resource is www.ripoffreport.com or your state’s consumer affairs bureau). Even if you’re not planning to contract a moving company, decide what you’ll be doing with your possessions: Yard sale? Storage unit? A grand give-away for friends? In any of these scenarios, you’ll need to do a bit of planning to ensure for the appropriate sale / transfer of items that are important to you.

6. Mind Your Money.

Moving is always an expense, even when you’ve planned to do so on a budget. Managing your money during a move is critical. Consider the following: Will you keep a bank account in your home country and/or establish an account in a new country? If the former, determine whether you’ll be able to use your ATM/debit card abroad and what kinds of foreign transaction fees you might incur as a result.

If the latter, you’ll want to know what kinds of documentation and references you’ll need to open an account. You may also want to consider online money management tools, either as a primary or secondary means of managing your money. Paypal is one of the many online money management tools available that can facilitate living abroad (In my own case, my clients pay for my writing, research, and translation services via paypal), but there are many other checking, savings, and transfer services. ING also has online financial services, including savings and money market options.

5. Thinking About the Fine Print.

There’s a lot about moving abroad that’s exciting and fun, but don’t forget about the fine print. All of the responsibilities that you have living in your home country—paying taxes, updating or renewing identification and other documents, and the like—don’t simply disappear once you move to another country. In fact, it’s likely that there will be more fine print with which you’ll need to comply than was ever true before.

Be sure to find out, for example, what the residency requirements are in your new country. Whether you’re staying as a temporary visitor or resident or whether you plan to establish permanent residence or citizenship, you’ll need to know the local requirements and be able to make necessary contacts (such as lawyers and accountants) to comply with them.

Also, if you haven’t fully cut ties with your home country (or if you are still employed by a company within your home country), be sure to consider what your ongoing obligations are in that jurisdiction. Keep your own notes to document your processes; these will come in handy when you renew, extend, or file for residency.

4. Working Abroad.

Maybe your plan is to get a job waiting tables, or maybe you’re in the fortunate position of being able to work online. If neither of these circumstances applies to you, though, you’ll need to think a bit about what kind of job you plan to pursue.

If you’re intending to look for a professional position, you’ll need to have copies of your transcripts and degrees. These may need to be translated by an official translation service. They may also need to be validated in the host country. As with the other tips provided here, the more information you have prepared and ready for dissemination, the better.

3. Contingency Planning

Just because you’re moving doesn’t mean that life’s little emergencies disappear. If you have any medical conditions, require medication, or have any other conditions that will need the attention of a professional, be sure to think about how you’ll get those needs met in your new country. As with the other tips here, the more detailed information that you bring with you (medical history, copy of your medical records, etc.), the more successful you’ll be.

2. Developing a New Network of Friends

Now that you’ve got everything in place, you can relax! But finding a new peer group may be as challenging as some of the other steps in the moving process. It’s likely, if you’re moving abroad, that you speak the language, so that’s a great first step.

Consider what your interests are and look for places and people that reflect those interests and would be a natural place to make new friends. In Mexico, for example, I’ve made new friends at university lectures, in film presentations, at museums, and other cultural events.

1. Pass it On!

Congratulations! Now you’re an expert in international moving. Take your lessons and pass them on. Consider how you can smooth the moving process for someone else by sharing your knowledge. What people and resources helped you along the way? Thank them for their input and add to the information they’ve offered by sharing the knowledge that you’ve acquired through your own experiences.

Responsible Tourism Day: Top 10 Resources

13 Nov 2007 in Top 10 tips by Jenny Williams
Travel by Boat

In celebration of tomorrow´s World Responsible Tourism Day we’ve put together a list of the ten best online sources for learning about and planning responsible travel. Please add your recommendation to the list in the comments section—there’s a wealth of material out there and new sources for green travel are always popping up.

Matador Travel and The Traveler’s Notebook should be the first stops for travelers passionate about making a difference on the road. And that’s not just because I write for them. The fact is, these two sites together offer an impressive collection of organizations doing great work, opportunities to get involved, and other dedicated travelers. You can exchange ideas, participate in forums, and search the network for like-minded souls.

Ethical Traveler is a “grass-roots alliance uniting adventurers, tourists, travel agencies, and outfitters—everyone who loves to travel, and sees travel as a positive force in the world.” The organization runs campaigns to raise awareness about environmental crises and human rights abuses all over the world, and offers ways to take action. They also provide a monthly news feed you can subscribe to if you want to keep up on the latest stories and campaigns. Ethical Traveler is a project of the Earth Island Institute, another good resource.

National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destinations presents a thorough look at the “geotourism” phenomenon. Their destination scorecards are a great place to start when planning a trip, and they even offer a booklet that “gives travel journalists and curious consumers ways to evaluate companies and destinations for sustainability.” The site also provides an excellent list of other resources, including links for “Green Hotel” organizations and eco-tour operators.

Tourism Concern, a UK-based organization, also has campaigns and action plans for green-minded go-getters. Their latest campaign takes a hard look at the effect of the Olympics on the indigenous communities that are often displaced or otherwise negatively affected by such massive events. Tourism Concern has an additional focus on the impact of free versus fair trade on local communities, and specifically aim to include UK Black and Minority Ethnic Diaspora in their educational outreach for travelers.

World Surface
calls itself a resource of “sustainable tourism for backpackers and independent travelers.” lists hundreds of eco-tours and offers contributions from travelers while they’re on the road. The site also details volunteer opportunities and conservation vacations. It’s easy to navigate and search for locations and tours.

The Connected Traveler has a long list of resources for “Good Travel” and “Volontourism” on the left sidebar. The site has essays, podcasts, and videos on all aspects of sustainable travel, and is generally a good site to get a feel for what’s out there.

Earthfoot’s Ecotour Posterboard runs a bunch of “very small-scale, locally produced, low-impact” eco-tours and homestays in countries all over the world. You can search by location or interest and then look at the profiles of each person involved in a tour. Though they’re not always budget choices, they are always rooted in the local community.

The International Ecotourism Society lists worldwide conferences, symposiums, and other events related to ecotourism. The site is geared more toward people in the industry—tour operators, lodge owners, etc—but travelers might find their research and publications section interesting. They’ve also got a searchable database of “ecotourism experts” that you can contact if you’re looking to hire consultants or speakers.

Leave No Trace is great for people who are looking for a more involved approach to ethical traveling. You can sign up for training courses and educational workshops, download free teaching resources, and gain access to serious research about the effects of travelers on their environment. Their focus is on the natural environment rather than communities of people, and most of the studies pertain to the American outdoors, but the site is still a good tool for general awareness and education.

Tread Lightly! focuses on “outdoor enthusiasts that use motorized and mechanized vehicles,” but the site also includes lots of good tips for horseback riding, camping, fishing, and snow sports. There’s a free “awareness course” and a section for kids, plus a twice-yearly newsletter that you can download in pdf form.

Okay, I know this is more than ten, but I couldn’t help myself. Responsible Travel is a massive database of thousands of eco-tours run by hundreds of operators, for people with a bit more cash to spend. Even for the budget-minded, the site includes some great tips and resources, including a handy air travel calculator that tells you how much carbon dioxide your flights add to global warming, and hints on offsetting and/or reducing your output.

_______________________________________

A regular contributor to Matador, Jenny Williams, a former national soccer player, quit a job in book publishing to travel in the Middle East, Africa, India, and Southeast Asia.

Green Guide to Paia

8 Nov 2007 in Destination Guides by Spencer Klein

PAIA

Paia is known as “the biggest little town on Maui,” and with good reason. The small population of 2500 has taken this town a long way. The scenic business district, bordered on one side by the ocean and on the other by the majestic slopes of Haleakala, offers everything you could ever need as a visitor… and it does so with character. What used to be a flourishing sugar cane plantation town has evolved into an array of locally owned, green minded shops, restaurants and businesses — all of which are housed in the old plantation style wooden buildings of the sugar mill era. The buildings have been restored and painted in vibrant new colors, adding bright life to the already pleasant atmosphere. And when the only market in town is a health food store (Mana Foods), you know you’ve got a good thing going. The variety and quality of restaurants is outstanding, and is complimented well by tasteful shops, boutiques and galleries. You might find that friendly service and smiling people are quite common around here — the laid back locals seem to have found peace with the lifestyle they’ve created. Along with the stellar eats and eclectic shopping, there’s a plethora of activities to keep you moving. Bike down thirty-something miles from the crater of Haleakala, windsurf at nearby Ho’okipa, then surf the very same wave, and finally lounge on the white sand at Baldwin Beach Park, all in a day’s time. Everything considered, this place is a virtual blueprint for sustainable living, and it happens to double as one of those rare destinations that might just make you “lose” your plane ticket home.

Practical Info

The heart of Paia is the intersection of the Hana Highway (HWY 36) and Baldwin Avenue. From there, the Hana Hwy runs north 4 miles to Kahului and the airport, and south all the way to Hana and beyond, while Baldwin Ave runs up the slopes of Haleakala a few miles to the town of Makawao. If you’re heading south to Hana, be sure and fill up on gas here — there are no more stations until you actually reach Hana. There’s a Bank of Hawaii with a 24 hr ATM on Baldwin, and the Paia Post Office sits at the top end of Baldwin (toward Makawao). Brighten someone’s day, send a postcard! If you would rather shoot off a few emails 21st century style, you’ll find cheap rates at Livewire Cafe on Hana Hwy.


GREEN EATS


Mana Foods
(8:30 AM-8:30 PM/ 7 days a week)

The shelves are well stocked at this healthy minded market with all the essentials and then some. Excellent produce selection. There is also a deli in the back with tasty sandwiches, finger foods, and a good salad bar. Super friendly staff and an extensive info board help Mana double as the vortex for all green living on Maui. Good place to network and get ideas. The store recently made the switch to corn based packaging. Oh, and we have to mention the vegan ice cream machine! Located on Baldwin.

Flatbread (Daily 11AM-11PM)

This upbeat and very hip restaurant bar calls itself the “all natural pizza company” for a reason. Ninety percent of what they use is organic, and the large majority of that is locally sourced on Maui. A wood fired oven in the heart of the restaurant adds authenticity while putting out a superb pizza. Great atmosphere at the bar with locally famous drink specials like the Grapefruit Honey Bourbon and Pomegranate Mojito. Hana Hwy at the base of Baldwin.

Fresh Mint
(M-Su 5pm-9pm)

Don’t judge this place by its looks — the flavors will more than make up for any lack of ambiance. With more than forty vegan options of homestyle vietnamese cuisine, the Mint is hard to beat come dinner time. The only real question is which dish to order. The sweet and sour tofu ($9) is as good as it gets, and the pad thai ($7) isn’t far behind. Innovative “mock-meat” dishes make this a great choice for those transitioning to the veg lifestyle or just looking to try something new. All things considered, this might be one of the best oriental meals you ever enjoy. Family owned and operated. Does not serve alcohol. At the top end of Baldwin across from the Post Office.

Cafe Mambo (Daily 8AM-9PM) (808) 579-8021

Halfway up Baldwin, across from the Bank of Hawaii, you’ll find this upbeat, stylish restaurant serving up some tasty international cuisine. The Fajitas ($12) are delicious and can be made with organic Maui tofu. Menu also includes various tapas style plates, sandwiches, burgers, and salads, which are made with “some” local, organic produce. Excellent deals at happy hour (4-6pm weekdays) when the organic beers and wines are served up alongside fajitas and burgers, all for a good penny. Did I mention the tofu fajitas? Breakfast menu offers good veg options, including the Fresh Fruit Cup w/ lilikoi sauce ($4). Picnics available as well.

Milagros (M-Su 8AM-10PM)

With more than two dozen of the worlds finest tequilas, this Margarita bar and Mexican restaurant will have you feeling rosy in no time. The DaKine House Special, made to order with your choice of tequila, triple sec, and fresh squeezed lime juice(!!!) is truly among the best margaritas we have ever enjoyed. Come for happy hour when the price is right, and enjoy the outdoor patio that overlooks the heart of town.

Livewire Cafe
(M-Su 6AM-10PM)

Enjoy a hot cup of organic joe and a vegan oatmeal cookie while you get connected in this breezy, yet modern internet cafe. With good tunes and choice views of Haleakala, the prices are reasonable and it’s the only option in town. Also offers wireless for those with laptops. On ocean side of Hana Hwy a few paces south from the intersection with Baldwin.

Moana Bakery & Cafe (Breakfast 8-11 AM, Lunch 11-3 PM, Dinner 3-9 PM)

With nightly live music, vegan soups, and local produce and goods, Moana doesn’t disappoint anyone looking for a sit-down meal. Best vibes are at dinner — check the door to see who’s playing this week. On Baldwin near Mana Foods.

Devocean Juice Bar
(M-F 10-6, Sat 10-4)

Groove to the reggae beats as you wait for your 100% organic juice, smoothie or acai bowl. Located on Hana Hwy, next to Livewire Cafe. Check out the stylish goods as you wait to be served.

Hana Bay Juice Co.
(M- Su 7:30am- 3:30pm) R

Good breakfast joint for those on the move. All smoothies made with non-fat, non-dairy frozen yogurt. Vegan bagel sandwich ($4) is well worth the good price. Located on Hana Hwy across from intersection with Baldwin.

The Wine Corner (M-W noon-10PM, Th-Su noon-10:30PM)

Excellent selection of organic and vegan beers, wines and spirits. Across from Charley’s on right side of Hana Hwy as you enter town from the south.

ACCOMMODATIONS

The Tropohouse
(808) 575-2118

A few miles south of Paia, this bed & breakfast is nestled in a quaint little corner of upcountry. Good variety of rooms ranging from $49-$99 per night plus tax. Boasts a community kitchen, living room, lanai and patio. The place has a good feel, very relaxing with good privacy. Rates include a light breakfast of bagels, organic fruits, coffee and tea. Eco-friendly cleaning.

LOCAL ART

Maui Crafts Guild
(M-Su 9AM- 6PM) (808) 579-9697, Gallery 43 Hana Hwy.

At the north end of Paia, you’ll find this very impressive artist owned and operated cooperative gallery. The 21 members of the co-op run every aspect of the Guild all by themselves, and best of all, everything is 100% hand made on Maui.

TRANSPORTATION

www.bio-beetle.com (808) 873-6121

Need some wheels? Now you can scoot around town and feel good about it! These 100% Biodiesel car rentals run on used vegetable oil sourced from local restaurants! It’s hard not to be excited - there’s a lot of driving to be done on Maui.

SUSTAINABLE SHOPPING

Hemp House

Purses, backpacks, flowy clothes and shirts stamped with Bushisms make for a refreshing boutique. Whatever your choice, when you buy hemp products you’re contributing to a growing, sustainable business. On Baldwin.

Sutrov Gallery

Next to The Wine Corner, across from Charley’s you’ll find this eclectic gallery of original Maui art — they only hang local names on the wall!

***There is a recycling center about 2 miles south of Paia on Hana Hwy across from the Haiku Community Center.

_____________________________

Spencer Klein

Spencer Klein’s ideal place to watch the sunset: “Seen September Sessions? From one of those hollow ones during F Stop Blues in the last section.”

Top 10 Spanish Schools for Waves, Wilderness and Buena Onda

4 Nov 2007 in Top 10 tips by Julie Schwietert

bariloche

Studying Spanish and backcountry lines in Bariloche. www.spanishinthemountains.com

This top 10 scours the Spanish-speaking world to find the best language schools that also meet the following criteria: (1) access to world-class wilderness and / or adventure sports, (2) an emphasis on sustainability and supporting local communities, and (3) a wide range of geographical regions.

10. Pop Wuj
Quetzaltenango, Guatemala

In addition to offering basic Spanish instruction, Pop Wuj specializes in technical Spanish for social workers, nurses, and doctors. Professionals can get hands-on fieldwork experience volunteering in the community. The school gets points from Matador for being a cooperative and with a strong commitment to community service. The school is a non-profit that directs its earnings to community development projects including a daycare, a greenhouse, medical clinics, and a scholarship program for marginalized students. Although Quetzaltenango is the second largest city in Guatemala, it’s a stone’s throw from numerous volcanoes. Climbers and hikers will be in paradise here.


9. Costa Rican Language Academy
San Jose, Costa Rica


One of the few language schools in Costa Rica owned and operated by Costa Ricans, CRLA is conscious of the local community, though it’s a bit more vague about exactly how it supports local initiatives compared to some of the other schools on our list. Still, its San Jose location is ideal; the capital city has a variety of transportation options and serves as a jumping off point for the coastal or mountain regions, where a wide variety of intense recreation can be enjoyed. Click here for a great map and description of Costa Rican surf spots.

8. El Paraiso Spanish School
Boquete, Panama

El Paraiso, owned and staffed by locals, is located on the Caldera River in the town of Boquete, much smaller and less touristy than Bocas del Toro. Boquete is surrounded by mountains, including the Baru Volcano, offering wilderness hiking and camping for seasoned trailblazers. Paddling and rafting on the river is also possible.

7. Otavalo Spanish Institute
Otavalo, Ecuador

While more expensive than many of the other schools on our list and also less clear about its commitment to sustainability and community, this school deserves a spot on the list for its geography alone. Ninety minutes from Quito, Otavalo is a world-famous artisan town surrounded by mountains and home to some of the clearest lakes in Ecuador. Opportunities abound for alpine adventures, mountain biking, climbing, and hiking. OSI also makes the list because it offers Quechua (Kichwa) courses and has a combination package in which students can study for part of their stay in Otavalo and in Baños for the other part; in Baños, hiking, biking, climbing, and rafting await.

6. Hijos del Maiz
El Lagartillo, Nicaragua

Perhaps the most off-the-beaten path school on our list, Hijos del Maiz is a “project by the community, for the community,” whose teachers are “well-educated peasant farmers from the community.” At least 20% of the weekly fee of $130 is reinvested into community projects, and students are invited to become as engaged in local life as they’d like by participating in community building projects. According to one student, just getting to the school was an adventure sport, but once you’re there, you’ll have plenty of time to explore the area on horseback. Test your bareback gallop in this rugged terrain!

5. Instituto de Idiomas, Universidad del Norte
Barranquilla, Colombia

The Institute of Languages at Barranquilla’s University of the North offers intensive language courses and the same kinds of homestay-volunteer combination packages offered by most schools on the list. Located in Barranquilla, a Caribbean coastal city, you’ll be perfectly positioned to spend your free time kiteboarding or diving. Of course, you could also find out for yourself whether Shakira was right when she said hips don’t lie. Whet your appetite for the trip by checking out this video from the 2004 International Kiteboarding Competition, which was held in Cartagena.


4. Spanish in the Mountains
Bariloche, Argentina

Spanish in the Mountains is steps from Cerro Catedral, Argentina’s biggest ski resort. If you want backcountry, head to the untouched bowls at Refugio Frey or the nearby chutes at La Laguna. This is a school run by and for mountain lovers. On most days during the Austral winter (July-September) you can find students from Alaska, the Rockies, the Alps and flatlanders with alpine dreams practicing conjugations on chairlifts. Mountaineers can combine lessons with a summit of the local giant, Mt. Tronador. Paddlers can study after running sections of the gnarly Rio Manso. The school’s classroom is a log cabin tucked inside a cozy forest with views of the local peaks. There are also visits to rural estancias, nearby farms and museums – plus regular nighttime barbecues where you can meet other mountain lovin’ locals and find a partner for ski touring on the weekend. This is also the best way to get the inside scoop on the best powder stashes and the lesser-known crags where only the locals hang out. Flat rate for classes is US$13/hour and schedules are ongoing – whenever you want to start, a teacher is ready for you. Housing options: rent your own bungalow, stay with a local family, or spend as much time as you can in your tent. Tip: Bring your gear – and consider selling some when you leave since there’s always a hot market for mountain toys here.

[Editor’s note: this school was submitted / reported on by Christie Pashby.]

3. IPSA Spanish Language School
Montevideo, Uruguay

IPSA is within walking distance to the beach, providing great opportunities for surfing…check out Playa Honda! Click hereFor surfing information and conditions in Montevideo. Prices at IPSA vary significantly depending on the intensity, duration, and level of your Spanish class.

2. Guacamaya Spanish School
Copan Ruinas, Honduras

While another local school called Ixbalanque may be better known, Guacamaya is one of the most welcoming and community-focused language school in Honduras. Guacmaya offers a week’s worth of classes and homestay (with meals, internet, and an excursion) for $200, providing a stipend to host families. They also organize volunteer opportunities for students, fostering cultural exchange with the locals and helping to improve the infrastructure of the community.