Molokai from Helicopter Photo by Amelia
Leubscher

Molokai demands kokua, or respect. This is the strongest community I have ever witnessed in all my modest travels of the world. The locals have basically shut down two multi-million dollar resorts on the west side of the island. And they did it all by themselves. They have fought off cruise ships, yachts, group tours, heli-tours, developers, and mainland transplant haoles for over four decades, and now people simply know…you just don’t show up on Molokai. You go there with respect, in small numbers. Tread lightly and you will be welcomed with aloha.

GENERAL INFO

Kaunakakai

What the Molokai ‘ohana call “town” is basically just a couple of blocks along Ala Malama, with some offshoots on side roads. There is no traffic and no traffic lights, and no building in town is taller than a coconut tree.

Kaunakakai has everything you need and it’s the only place that does, so you’ll want to stock up accordingly. Coming from the airport or west side, take a left onto Ala Malama (at the Chevron on the corner). It’s pretty hard to miss considering the rural backdrop you’ll see along the way. If you’re coming over on the ferry, just follow the wharf road straight and it will turn into Ala Malama. The walk from the wharf, assuming you want to avoid the sky-high taxi fares, will take about fifteen minutes.

American Savings Bank and Bank of Hawaii are right next to each other at the beginning of town. Both have a 24hr ATM. To get back in touch with the cyberworld, hit up Stanley’s Coffee House and Gallery at the far end of town for the fastest internet access on the island; there is also WIFI at Outpost Natural Foods for a suggested donation of $1. Not a bad price and it serves to support the island’s only health food establishment! The Molokai Public Library also has a few computers with internet access, as well as several local and national newspapers. Be sure to check the locals for info on upcoming events, activities, etc. There is a Post Office in town right on Ala Malama, and the Molokai General Hospital is located off the main drag in the far part of town, just follow the blue signs.

Camping: it will be helpful to stop by the Deptartment of Parks & Recreation in the Mitchell Pauole Center on the corner of Ala Malama and Ainoa St., adjacent to the baseball fields. The MP Center is a full service recreation facility that features a gym, indoor swimming pool, two tennis courts, and a noteworthy skate park. Also check the uber-helpful Molokai Visitors Association on the corner of Kamoi St. and the main highway on the southeastern edge of town.

Leaving town, take a left off Ala Malama onto Kamehameha V (HWY 450) to head east, or a right onto the Maunaloa Hwy (HWY 460) to head west (towards the airport). HWY 450 and HWY 460 are essentially the same road, the name just changes at Kaunakakai. Mile markers are helpful reference points on Molokai, with Kaunakaki representing mile 0 and the mile markers ascending as you leave town in either direction. If the interisland ferry beckons, just head straight through the intersection of Ala Malama and the main highway and take the wharf road all the way to the end. The Molokai Princess should be waiting…

GREEN MARKETS & RESTAURANTS

Outpost Natural Foods & Deli

Outpost is the classic example of doing the best with what you’ve got. In an older building on Makaena Pl., next to the unnamed gas station, you will find a good selection of all the staples you’ll need to stock up on (including bulk), plus a few treats you might not be expecting. The assortment of seasonal organic fruits and veggies is impressive considering the process it takes to get them here. There’s cold drinks — even Kombucha! — and a frozen section with a surprising variety of vegan goodies. One look around town and it won’t take long to realize this is the only health food establishment on the island, and the only place consistently selling organic produce. Great deals on seasonal produce are frequent. In the back you’ll find your island salvation if you eat veg, in the form of a deli. The daily lunch special ($6, served 11-3) is usually down-right delicious, and it’s served up in very generous portions. Don’t forget, wireless internet is available for a suggested donation of $1 — just pull your car up next to the store and whip out the laptop… drop your recyclables here too!

Farmer’s Market (Sa 6am - noon)

Every Saturday morning, rain or shine, Molokai’s farmers gather along Ala Malama Ave. to offer up their goods. There’s no better way to support green living than buying directly from the farmers –especially in a community this small. Be sure to ask if the produce is organic and get there early for the best selection. Local artists and artisans set up shop too.

Friendly Market

Right in the middle of town, this is easily the largest grocery store on the island, and thus the cheapest place to shop. There is a small health food section, and they offer an organic wine beer options. The frozen section has some gardenburgers and the like. Most importantly, stock up on water here (especially if you’re camping) because water prices elsewhere are pretty high. Some organic produce.

Stanley’s Coffee Shop & Gallery

This is bound to be your place of morning refuge if you’re a coffee drinker, and you most likely won’t be disappointed. The lattes ($3) and coffees ($2) are excellent, and there’s a host of fresh baked goodies, bagels, and breakfast plates. Decent vegetarian options, but not too much in the way of dairy-free goods. Bring your own soy. Pleasant environment provides a good arena to strike up conversations with the locals.

SUSTAINABLE ARTS

Molokai Artists & Crafters Guild (553-8018)

Located above American Savings Bank on Ala Malama, this tasteful gallery and gift shop only displays the best works of the best artists on the island. It was created to fill the need of Molokai’s artists who previously had no place to display or sell their work - that means more support for the local economy. Ask one of the artists to show you around, he or she will be happy to let you in on the story behind each work of art.

SEE THE SIGHTS

On the south side of the main highway Ala Malama turns into Kaunakakai Pl. (also known as the wharf road), which leads out to the Kaunakakai Wharf. Besides the wonderful views, the wharf is a great place to get a feel for the lifestyle of Molokai’s residents. You will find fishermen cruising the 150 yard pier at virtually all hours of the day, and families enjoying a dip in the calm waters on the west side. If you want to chill out Molokai-style, break out a few a chairs, a cooler, and kick back to the trades blowing through the Pailolo channel. Maui and Lanai are the two islands you will see just across the way. Undoubtedly, the best time of year at the wharf is during the outrigger canoe races of June and July. Show up on Saturday mornings (when they’re typically held) and you’ll find a few more coolers than normal, with rowdy fans, concession stands, and plenty of fun for all ages.

The wharf is also home to a twenty year-old fishing cooperative, the Molokai Ice House, and at the end lies the port of call for the inter-island ferry, the Molokai Princess. Right before the wharf begins, on the west side, you will (hardly) see the remains of King Kamehameha V’s vacation home. It’s nothing more than a pile of stone rubble, and nothing to stop for, but it’s a good bit of history for the rest of the bunch in the car. More King Kamehaha V history is just down the road a mile west of town, where you will see the 10 acre Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove, planted by the King to provide shade for visiting royalty. Wear a helmet if you plan to stroll through the grove.

PILLOWS & STARS & DREAMS

One Ali’i Beach Park

Pronounced oh-nay ah-lee-ee, this beach park is actually two parks right next to each other on the ocean side of Kam V Hwy around the 3 mi. marker. Only the easternmost park (One Ali’i I) is designated for camping, and the facilities are simple with bathrooms and showers. This place will do the trick if you’re not looking for much (or need to catch the early ferry), but there is relatively no privacy or shade and the park is frequently used by local families for large parties and gatherings. The parties, of course, can be a plus or minus depending on your mood and willingness to join the crowd, but be prepared to hit the pillow to the sound of music. Parties are more frequent on weekends. The swimming right out front is very poor with shallow, muddy water. Permits ($3/nt per camper) are required and there is a 3 night max.

ORIENTATE & OUTFIT

If you think the other islands are too “planned” with cookie-cutter itineraries, safe eco-tours and the sort, you’re definitely in for a treat here. Ask five people whether or not you can make the hike back to Moaula Falls from Halawa Valley without a guide, and you’re likely to get five different answers. One might say “Sure, bruddah, no sweat,” and another might imply you’re asking for “lickins.” Trust us, you don’t want lickins, so we highly recommend you heed our advice, and even more so, the advice of the local outfitters. We did our research well, but some things have undoubtedly changed since that time. That said, out of respect for the locals as well as your own well being, it’s best to confirm everything with the locals.

Friendly Market

On a similar note, it might seem unappealing or discouraging to have to pay for guides, permits, or tours, but keep in mind these are the very things that keep Molokai afloat. Unemployment rates are extremely high on the island and the average per capita income is considerably lower than on the other major islands. So consider that camping permit or guided tour your chance to contribute to an island community that is fighting hard to maintain its character and integrity. These considerations shouldn’t discourage any visitor; there is, in fact, a plethora of raw, unguided adventure awaiting everyone who comes to Molokai. For adventure of any sort, these are the best guides, outfitters, and compasses on the island, and most happen to be in or around town — in no particular order…

Molokai Visitor’s Association (www.molokai-hawaii.com, M-F 8am-4:30pm, 553-5221)

On the corner of Kamoi St. and the main highway. Good info on everything that does seem a bit “packaged,” and decent info on less commercial adventures. Offers a library of brochures. Can help lead you to “green” vacation rentals as well! If you’ve never been to the island, we recommend stopping by.

Molokai Outdoors (553-4477, M-Sa 8-5, Su 8-4)

Located in the lobby of Hotel Molokai, this is our choice for the island’s best outfitter. Offers everything you could want or need to rent at hourly, daily, and weekly rates. Good info on the tricky activities like the hike from Halawa Valley, and tours to the Kalaupapa Peninsula. Full-day and half-day guided tours are available for good prices.

Molokai Fish & Dive (552-0184)

Offers a host of rentals for every outdoor activity you could imagine at decent prices. Employs several activity guides who can lead you on packaged and customized tours of the island — surf lessons, kayak tours, horseback rides, hikes, bike tours — you name it.

Molokai Surf (558-8943)

Surf shop a half mile west of town with all the standard goods. If you’re in search of waves, let owner and longtime Molokai resident, Jerry Leonard, point you in the right direction.

WEST SIDE

BEACHES

The west side beaches of Molokai are some of the most beautiful in all the islands and for the most part they remain completely deserted. Many of the beaches here would be absolutely mobbed if they were on any other island, so cherish the fact that your footprints might be the only ones you see. That said, it seems only fair to continue with the traditional obscurity in describing the region. As for the landmark beaches that have already been revealed…

Almost 3 miles in length, Papohaku Beach ranks as the longest and largest beach in all of Hawaii. The golden sand seems to stretch forever, paving the way for one of those magical, uninterrupted barefoot strolls we all dream of. Despite its beauty and the vast amount of coastline it covers, you’re still likely to see only a handful of people on the entire beach, and at times, you may walk the full stretch without seeing another soul. There are four access points to Papohaku — the main one is through the Papohaku Beach Campground, a very nice, well shaded campground with good facilities. For those looking to get away from it all, PBC is easily the best campground on the island, and a surefire candidate for the best campground in all of Hawaii.

Tips
As the trade winds pick up throughout the day, violent sandstorms become quite common and unless you’re on the north end of the beach protected by the rocky point, you can well expect a blasting. Another drawback is the lack of shade, and it’s always sunny on the leeward side. Finally, the waters here are known for exceptionally strong currents and undertow. Unless you are a confident surfer or waterman (there are breaks all up and down the beach on W and N swells), it would be best to exercise extreme caution when taking a dip. Winter swimming conditions are locally described as “treacherous.”

Beyond the point marking the south end of Papohaku Beach there are several beach access points with beautiful views, beautiful beaches, and pleasant settings. Many are too rocky for swimming, but remain ideal for the secluded sunset or stargazing you’re after. Follow the road south from the campground all the way to the end, and you will stumble upon Dixie Maru, named for an old ship that sunk off the coast years ago. The setting here is sublime. There are two rocky points that protect the golden sand cove and harbor its beautiful turquoise waters from the elements. The swimming here is excellent on a calm day, offering the best snorkeling on the west side, and when the waves are up, there are good point breaks on both sides. Explore around the south point, see what you find.

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Spencer Klein’s ideal place to watch the sunset: “Seen September Sessions? From one of those hollow ones during F Stop Blues in the last section.”

locals during Oktoberfest

Think Germany, think beer; Think beer, think Oktoberfest. The young Germans still hold true to the sanctity of tradition and come dressed in their finest leather pants for a beer swilling, song filled good time; the older generation is a sight to behold with their wicked, cut and curled mustaches. (www.oktoberfest.de) 2008 Oktoberfest starts September 20th, so get your friends together and rent an apartment early (www.vbro.com or www.homeaway.com ), to avoid the overpriced and overcrowded hostels. Or worse, end up drunk with no place to rest your hungover head.

Visit the house that gave Hitler vertigo for some astounding views of Berchtesgaden National Park from the Eagles Nest (Kehlsteinhaus). If the weathers right, forgo the bus ride down and hoof it across the mountainside. Skip across the border at night and crash in the Mozart filled Austrian city of Salzburg, and yes, the hills just might come alive with the Sound of Music.

Trudge uphill with the mobs of camera toting, Hawaiian shirt clad tourists to see one of Germany’s most pristine castles, the Neuschwanstein (www.hohenschwangau.de). Here’s a tip: hike five minutes past Marien Bridge for a better view and complete solitude. Stay at Lando’s L.A House hostel a few kilometers away in Fussen for a cozy old house, great price and a happy host who seems to be able to say “Thank You” in forty languages. (www.housela.de)

view from the Eagle’s nest

Rent a bike (5-10 euros/day) at any of the small Alpine villages and spend the days pedaling around crystalline lakes, through cow pastures and stopping for Gluwein (hot spiced, red wine) to keep warm when the clouds move in. And you still have kilometers to go to get home.

Hit up the Couchsurfing project to find locals who will let you crash on their couches or at least agree to meet you at one of the many Bavarian Beer Gardens and show you their favorite local spots (www.couchsurfing.com). The Bavarian are uncommonly warm and friendly in their homeland, and love showing it off.

Head into the deep south of the Bavarian Alps, to Oberstdorf, which is a tiny (primarily German) tourist spot. Excellent hiking, views from sharp cliffs and plenty of hillside cafes for coffees and Germknodel (a plum filled dumpling covered in vanilla sauce). At first glance the nightlife seems lacking, but begin with a traditional dinner and a liter of steam brewed beer at the Dampf Bier Brauerei, then head to the basement of the Oberstdorf Hotel for the Hor (?) Bar, filled with local students and weekday ping-pong.

Pack your Hiking boots and trudge through ankle deep autumn leaves on any one of the hundreds of kilometers of trails. Be sure to find your way to the butcher, bakery and cheese shops early in the morning for a spectacular European picnic.

With that American dollar falling, take advantage of the best deal in Bavaria; the Bavaria Ticket. It allows up to five people to travel together on the regional trains all day for only 27 euro. Single, 19 euro. Local tip: if you get to the train station early, there might be people around trying to get a group together. (www.Diebahn.de )

With or without that someone special, don’t miss the Romantic Road (www.romantischestrasse.de). Fight global warming and use your thumb, plenty of others travelers already rented plenty of cars for everyone, and Bavaria is one of the worlds safer places to learn how to properly hitch hike. If all else fails, buy a hop on, hop off, ticket on the Romantic Road Europabus (www.deutsche-touring.com) and focus on napping between castle filled cities.

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About Rob Paetz: “I love to travel and take pictures; both of which are extremely expensive interests, but somehow I manage to constantly be going somewhere.” Check out his photo gallery here.

Child monks in Bhutan. Photo by Nathan Choe

Bhutan is the last of the independent Himalayan Buddhist kingdoms. Most Bhutanese still live a long walk from the road in big, beautiful farmhouses with terraced rice fields out front, red chili peppers drying on the roof, and white prayer flags snapping in the breeze.

Because of its unique geography, getting to Bhutan used to be practically impossible.The first roads in the country weren’t built until the 1960s, and only a handful of adventurers made it to the central valleys before 1974, when the first hotels were built to accommodate dignitaries arriving for the coronation ceremony of the current King.

At first the government ran the entire business itself, but eventually private companies were allowed to operate. These companies are all obliged to charge the same daily fee of $200. In 2008 Bhutan will implement a major political overhaul centered around democratic reforms. A lot of things will change, including the tourism regulations. The word now is that the $200 inclusive fee will be done away with in favor of a flat $100 government tax per tourist, per day, with all other expenses dictated by the market.

TOURISM IN BHUTAN – PRACTICAL INFORMATION

All visitors must use a registered tour company. The biggest is Bhutan Tourism Corporation Limited, owned in large part by the royal family. This is the company that organized our tour and I was extremely impressed by our guide, driver and the BTCL hotels.

The second biggest tour operator is called ETHO METHO, online at www.ethometho.com. You might also take a look at www.lingkor.com, the website of a tour company owned by a reincarnate Buddhist holy man turned entrepreneur who seems to remember partying with my Mom in New York City in the 1970s.

It’s quite easy to arrange individually tailored trips geared around a specific theme, such as birding, rafting, trekking or Buddhist studies.

Druk Airlines Plane tail and Zong. Photo by Nathan Choe

Transport

The flight to Bhutan has the best mountain views of any commercially scheduled flight in the world. Most likely jet-lagged into a daze, you’re suddenly jolted awake by adrenaline as you pass by the peak of Mt. Everest. Get a window seat.

Entering the country overland at Puenthsoling is an interesting option, because the 6 hour drive up the river valley gives you the experience of climbing through various eco-zones to the heart of the Himalayas. Visas are issued at this border as well as at the airport, but to get a visa you must be pre-registered with a tour. The cost is $20. Keep your ear to the ground regarding regulations at the new overland crossing between Southeastern Bhutan and Assam, which is exit-only for the time being.

Useful info.

The government mandated $200 daily fee must include everything except souvenirs and drinks, so you don’t need to worry about constantly bargaining. The Bhutanese currency, the ngultrum, is pegged to the Indian rupee, at an exchange of about 44 ng to $1. Rupees are also widely accepted. A bottle of water costs around 15 ng in town and 35 ng in hotels. A ten minute taxi ride in Thimphu is around 60 ng. Bhutan produces excellent rums, and you can buy a liter of Dragon Rum for around 100 ng in shops, more in hotels.

Souvenirs are rather expensive, both because the Bhutanese are used to dealing with wealthy tourists and because the quality of local crafts is excellent. Bhutan produces some beautiful textiles, lots of Buddhist art and interesting metalwork. The Thimphu market (Fri-Sun) is a good place to shop. Remember that it is illegal to bring any object over 100 years old out of the country. Save receipts.

You can change travelers checks and foreign currency at the airport, major hotels, and banks in Thimphu. Visa cards are usually accepted in stores that cater to tourists, but not elsewhere.

International calls are possible but expensive at most hotels, but the local mobile phone network within Bhutan is extensive. Slow internet access is available in Thimphu at around 70 ng per hour and you can also get online at a few of the larger provincial hotels, where it’s more expensive.

Electricity is 220 volts, and the plugs are large and three pronged. Bring an adaptor.

Eats

Most meals in the hotels are served buffet style. At dinner, the first course is soup, which the wait-staff will bring to your table. A big pot of rice is standard, usually accompanied by dishes that include pork or beef, a curry of some sort, steamed vegetables and baked or fried fish (watch out for bones), At the end of the line, there will often be a bowl full of Bhutan’s national dish, ema-datsi, or hot chili peppers in cheese sauce. Wickedly spicy!

The food isn’t bad, but it does get monotonous. It’s a good idea to bring some granola bars or trail mix from home for day hikes or long bus rides. Brave diners can try ready made market food, but be careful with chogo, dried cubes of yak cheese hard enough to break teeth.

Child spinning prayer wheels. Photo by Nathan Choe

Authentic Culture

Because travel within Bhutan is so difficult, over the years each valley developed its own unique culture and distinct dialect. Over a dozen languages are spoken within the kingdom. The national language is called Dzongkha, as it is the language of the ancient fortress-monasteries, or Dzongs, which still function as the governing center of each province. Dzongkha is taught in schools, but the basic language of instruction is English, so nearly all young people are at least tri-lingual, speaking Dzongkha, English and the local language of their valley.

Archery is Bhutan’s national sport and if you see a match in progress be sure to stop and watch. Two teams face off at opposite ends of a range that stretches for all of 140 meters, with a tiny target barely visible at the far end. The opposing team stands around the target, trying to distract the tiny figure off in the distance who is launching deadly weapons in their direction. The archer lets fly, and if it’s a hit, everyone does a dance and sings and drinks rice whiskey before the next round.

The Tantric Buddhism practiced in Bhutan includes a vast pantheon of demons, bodhisattvas and other deities. Practitioners believe in the karmic cycle of reincarnation and strive to accumulate merit through good deeds and the performance of rituals. It’s common to see elderly men and women walking down the street muttering mantras and turning prayer wheels, which are conveniently built into walls along the sidewalks in towns.

The importance of good deeds includes a deep respect for all forms of life, from the smallest ant to the earth herself. During my travels, I sometimes saw Bhutanese stop on the sidewalk, pick up insects, and move them out of harms way. Fishing and logging are heavily regulated and frowned upon, as is the killing of animals for meat, although most Bhutanese happily eat pork and beef that someone else has slaughtered.

Many Bhutanese become monks at a young age. It can be a stark life of chanting and mediation for these boys, especially in monasteries perched high in the mountains, but there is an otherworldly sense of purity and peace in such places.

PLACES

Paro

Paro town is basically two streets running parallel to each other North of the airport. There are several local craft shops and a nice art gallery with original Bhutanese paintings and a terrific selection of black and white photographs.

The National Museum is in the old circular watchtower on a ridge above the Dzong. There are hundreds of beautiful Buddhist statues on the top floors and a dungeon downstairs where the first king of Bhutan was briefly incarcerated. There is also a display of medieval weaponry, but the doorway is heavily signposted with Buddhist texts preaching the virtues of pacifism.

There are several temples in Paro, including Kyichu Lhakhang, which dates back to the 7th century, when Buddhism first arrived in Bhutan. Your tour guide should be able to arrange a visit to Kyichu, which is located along the Paro River a short drive upstream from the center of town. With luck, the monks will allow you to view the original statues of the inner sanctum, long since dyed black by a millennium of smoke from butter lamps.

No visit to Bhutan is complete without a trip to the famous Taktshang Monastery, or “Tiger’s Nest,” which hangs from a sheer cliff thousands of feet above the valley floor, about 10 kilometers North of Paro town. Taktshang is actually a group of several monasteries, but Tiger’s Nest is by far the most dramatic.

Two lesser known destinations in Paro are Dungste Lhakhang temple and Dzong Drakha monastery. Dungste Lhakhang is located on the East side of the river upstream from the National Museum. When I visited, a funeral rite was in progress, and it was haunting to hear the monks chanting and beating drums as I climbed up worn wooden ladders to the upper levels of the temple. The wall paintings inside are breath-taking, but it’s very dark, so bring a flashlight.

Dzong Drakha is located a few kilometers up the road that leads West over Cheli La pass to the Haa Valley. This road has only been open to tourists for 3 years, so very few visitors know about the monastery. It’s sort of a Tiger’s Nest junior, perched on a less dramatic cliff about 40 minutes walk from the road. The views are magnificent, and you’re unlikely to run into other travelers.

Thimphu

The capital city of Thimphu is a dusty 2 hour drive from Paro. The road is due for widening and repair by 2008, but this project has a long way to go. A growing population of around 70,000 people make their homes on the surrounding hills, making Thimphu the closest thing to a city you’ll find in Bhutan. Traffic can be thick along the main street, but there are still no traffic lights, just a white-gloved policeman directing cars at the central interchange.

Punakha

Punakha is only about 40 kilometers from Thimphu as the crow flies, but the drive can easily take the better part of a day with a lunch break and a few photo stops. Be sure to bring your passport, because there is a checkpoint one hour outside Thimphu where soldiers can ask to see identification.

The road climbs up to Dochu La pass, an important spiritual place for the Bhutanese. Definitely make time to get out of the bus, stroll through the forest of prayer flags and take in stunning views of the Himalayan range.

Punakha valley is much lower than Thimphu, so once over the pass, the road goes down and down through thick green virgin forest. Keep an eye out for monkeys, red pandas, rare birds and beautiful tree lilies. The valley itself is carved by two wide glacial rivers that come together below Punakha Dzong, which many agree is the most beautiful fortress in all of Bhutan. Traditionally, the monks from the Dzong in Thimphu spend the winter at Punakha, taking advantage of the relatively mild climate.

I stayed for four nights in Punakha at Hotel Zangtho Pelri. Besides the Dzong, I highly recommend a day trip up the valley to the vast Jigme Dorji National Park. The road follows a roaring river through farmland, where you can get out and walk up to hillside villages. The National Park itself is a great place for spotting rare mammals and birds. It’s possible to drive all the way up to the border of Gasa Province and still be back at the hotel in time for dinner.

Phobjika

I visited Phobjika as a day trip from Punakha, but would definitely recommend staying there for one or two nights. The valley is well known as the winter home of Black-Necked Cranes, which arrive in mid-October after flying over the Himalayas from Tibet. The cranes are sacred in Bhutan, and the government has gone to great lengths to protect their habitat.

In past years, the only way to get to Phobjika was on foot, but a road has been built that branches off the main West-East high way just before the pass into Central Bhutan. It takes about 3 hours to make the trip from Punakha. There is a large temple on a hill overlooking the valley which is currently undergoing extensive renovations.

Recommended Reading

Those seriously considering a trip to Bhutan should get their hands on a real guidebook. Lonely Planet publishes a fairly comprehensive tome, but the best is probably Francoise Pommaret’s Bhutan: Himalayan Mountain Kingdom.

Jamie Zeppa, a Canadian women who went to Eastern Bhutan to teach and ended up staying, has written a wonderfully personal account of her experiences entitled Beyond the Sky and Earth: Journey Into Bhutan.

Jeremy Bernstein’s In the Himalayas is one of my very favorite travel books. It’s mostly about Nepal, but also includes beautiful portraits of Tibet and Bhutan.

The news scene in Bhutan can be pretty quiet, but if you want to get the most recent intelligence check out the online edition of Bhutan’s weekly paper at www.kuenselonline.com. The Bhutan Times also has a brand new website – www.bhutantimes.com.

Tashi Delek!

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Editor’s notes:

The full version of this guide including a Bhutan phrasebook can be found in Rucksack Wanderer’s Guide to Bhutan at matador.

Tim Patterson, contributing editor for Brave New Traveler and regular contributor to matador, travels with a sleeping bag and pup tent strapped to the back of his folding bicycle. His articles and travel guides have appeared in The San Francisco Chronicle, Get Lost Magazine, Tales Of Asia and Traverse Magazine.

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Lake Louise, Banff

When it comes to Big North riding, one name undoubtedly pops to mind: Whistler Blackcomb. Oft-ranked the world’s best resort, Whistler has everything a skier or snowboarder desires: big mountain terrain, killer park and pipe, generous servings of fresh, and a vibrant village with plenty of nightlife and activities to hold your attention off-mountain. It also has one more defining quality: hype.

To the east, Lake Louise serves up the same big mountain experience in a quieter, less crowded, less expensive atmosphere— essentially, all the positives of Whistler minus the hype. Additionally, you get two more resorts–Sunshine Village and Ski Norquay–under an hour down the road, each with its own signature atmosphere, huge fall lines, and great snow. Situated in Banff National Park, these ski areas provide access to some of the most beautiful alpine terrain on the planet.

My experience with Lake Louise was small part ski vacation, large part honeymoon. My new wife and I love the winter and absolutely adored the counterintuitive idea of a honeymoon getaway amidst the coldest, snowiest climate available. You can keep the sun and beaches– give us the crisp chill of a January day at 8,000 feet and a few feet of new snow and we’re in our natural element. Given the backdrop of this trip, no ordinary ski resort would fit the bill.

Originally, our thoughts drifted toward Europe and the Swiss Alps, however, time and money would not allow for such a lengthy, extravagant voyage. After some research and debate, we nearly settled on Tahoe.

Given the huge shadow that Whistler has cast upon other Canadian resorts, the only reason I’d ever even heard of Lake Louise was because of my near-obsessive research of world resorts on RSN.com—I always have my eye on my next great ride.

A few minutes of background checking and it was clear that Lake Louise was the perfect place for us. The area is the antithesis of every ski resort you’ve ever been to. Built on its reputation as a beautiful summer retreat, Louise experiences the off-season in winter. As such, hotel prices are a fraction of what you’d pay in the summer and crowds are at the barest of minimums.

To make things that much sweeter, Lake Louise’s location within Banff National Park has set the scene for strict development regulations. There is no real town or village and the whole area consists of the ski resort and a few loosely construed hotels, lodges, restaurants and shops. Even the locals are put up in employee housing on hotel grounds. I can’t even recall seeing a house or condo in the area. Essentially, you have government mandated crowd control.

Lake Louise, Banff

Lake Louise is a beautiful deep blue-green alpine lake set amidst towering mountain peaks, with the Victoria glacier on the far side. The Fairmont Chateau, set on the shore directly facing the glacier, offers incredible views of the lake and mountains right from your own bedroom window—the perfect place for a romantic adventure retreat.

Although I was only able to sneak off for a little riding, I was blown away by the conditions and terrain. The snow was damn-near perfection even without a recent storm—soft and light with no rough or icy patches anywhere. It allowed one to point and shoot and catch the perfect edge every time.

The terrain was huge and wide open with everything you dream about in the summer months: big wide bowls, huge-angled steeps, trees, and great intermediate and black runs for blazing down full-speed. Unlike many resorts that split their vertical among base areas at scattered altitudes, Louise allows you to drop the majority of its vertical, from the upper bowls down to the bottom base, in one continuous, adrenaline-inducing fall line—making for long, fast runs and some of the best riding I’ve done in Canada or anywhere else. For the number junkie—Lake Louise offers 113 trails cut across 4,200 acres, with 3250 vertical drop—pretty impressive for a resort that you may never have heard of.

Lake Louise is the ultimate winter spot to do some of the best riding of your life and head back for a quiet, romantic evening with your girl. However, if you’re looking for a bit more civilization, a place to kick back with a group of your best friends—stop down the road at Banff. Banff offers your typical ski town with shops, restaurants and plenty of places to grab some libation. Within about 15 minutes drive are two great resorts. Ski Norquay, the smallest of Banff-area resorts, is great for families and beginners, but also has a healthy number of challenging black runs. The resort offers 28 runs over 190 acres altogether and is home to some of Canada’s oldest ski runs. Sunshine Village offers some incredible big mountain riding with plenty of steeps and expert terrain. The resort totals 107 runs over 3358 acres. Among its acreage, Sunshine houses a number of gut-wrenching steeps and terrain to satisfy even the most jaded expert. All this and you can still make it to Lake Louise in about 40 minutes or so.

Getting to Banff/Lake Louise couldn’t be much easier. Calgary International Airport offers flights from all around the world. From here, it is a pain-free 2 hours or so to the Banff/Lake Louise area up Trans-Canada Highway 1, Banff being about 1 ½ hours, with Lake Louise another 40 minutes or so up the highway. I’d definitely recommend staying at the Fairmont Chateau—you can always find some sweet rates via package—for around $1000 I got 5 nights of lodging plus a ski pass. Here, you’re guaranteed to get the most memorable views of your life in a gorgeous hotel with a variety of excellent, fine restaurants. There are plenty of other lodging and dining options in Lake Louise and Banff, as well.

Check out www.skibanff.com for more info on Lake Louise, Banff, Sunshine Village and Ski Norquay.

Other places in British Columbia worth checking out:

Fernie Alpine Resort

Kimberly Alpine Resort

Panorama

Kicking Horse

Quite frankly, BC is like Colorado or Vermont—so many great resorts in a concise area. If you still need more options hit up www.rsn.com, check the resorts section, and click on Canada—you’ll get info on all these Canadian resorts and many more, divided by province.

Canada mimics the terrain of the US in that the biggest mountains and riding are all out west. However, if you’re looking to take a road trip from one of those big cities in the East, you’ll have plenty of solid options as well. Eastern Canadian riding is comparable to what you’d find in VT or upstate NY and, big bonus—some resorts are within an hours of Montreal—a party haven and the Canadian twist on City of Sin.

Consider these options with authentic French names:

Mont Tremblant

Le Massif

Mont Sainte Anne

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Please check out Christopher Weiss’s profile here.

In the summer of 2006, I was hiking with some friends in northern Israel, about six miles from the border with Lebanon. This happened to be the day that a group of Hezbollah agents attacked an Israeli jeep, initiating a month-long conflict between the two forces. I watched as Ketyushim rockets rained down on the small Israeli town I was in, and I spent the night in a larger city listening to rockets crashing all around us. I got out of the war zone safely because I acted calmly and was staying with Israelis who took care of me. What kept me together was being among Israelis who had dealt with violent situations before and could answer my questions and tell me their predictions. However, I learned that you cannot always trust the locals’ expertise. My hosts swore that the city of Tzfat would never be hit by rockets because it was a holy city with no military targets. The next day, as we were on a bus to Jerusalem, we heard the news: Hezbollah had begun bombarding Tzfat.

If you are ever traveling in places that are in constant states of war, like the Middle Eastern countries, or places that lack stability such as many Latin American countries, there are a few things you need to know in order to be ready should disaster arise.

1. Keep a small notebook while traveling with a list of emergency contacts, your name and basic information (home country, health insurance information, allergies), and the address of where you are staying in that country. Think of it this way: if you are traveling in places where there are riots, wars, social unrest, or violence, you could be a victim at any point. People need to know who to call about you, how to treat you, and what country you are a citizen of.

2. Always know where your passport is. You need to be able to get to it quickly. If you aren’t afraid of being robbed, you might as well carry it with you. However, if there’s a chance of robbery, just carry a copy of it with you, and keep it in a safe place at your hotel or lodging.

3. Register with the US embassyin the country you are visiting. Keep the address of the Embassy (assuming you are American) and have it handy at all times. You can always call them or go directly there if there is a catastrophe, and you can call them for help if you are taken to jail. However, I have spoken with people who were on the Lebanese side of the war with Israel in 2006, and some of them were unable to get any help from the U.S. Embassy. Be prepared to rely on yourself.

4. Have contacts in major cities that you can call to ask for a place to stay or for some comfort in times of stress. If you are traveling along, be sociable and meet other backpackers, and exchange e-mails so you can be in touch along the way. If you are doing volunteer work or teaching, keep the contact information of your organization with you at all times.

5. Know a few words in the local language: “Help,” “Where is the American embassy?” “How do we get out of here?” Even if you can never memorize these sentences fluently, at least write them down in your notebook properly so you can show them to people, or just try to memorize a few key words that will communicate the basic idea.

6. Be alert, but remain calm. Wherever you are, you will be more terrified than the locals if you have never experienced this kind of event before. Realize that you, and they, can survive if everybody works together to find an escape or a solution. Keep your eyes and ears open at all times so you will always know whether a situation can become dangerous or not. Read the newspaper or watch the news every day so you are updated. Listen to what locals are saying. Watch how the locals act. If they appear frantic, you probably should be worried.

If you follow these suggestions, you’ll at least be prepared for dealing with catastrophic situations as they arise.

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More info:

1. State dept site for registering w/embassies

2. an in-depth article on Travel Safety by a detective

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About Rachel Signer: “”I’m a freelance anthropologist, roaming the world doing what I have to do to accomplish my dreams, loving it all, and recognizing the beautiful parts as well as the not-so-pretty things.”

Yanapuma Foundation volunteer in Ecuador www.yanapuma.org

Green travel is a juxtaposition of concepts. By its very nature, “travel” is less efficient than “staying put.” But for the habitually wanderlust-afflicted or for those who must travel for business, the following ten items are simple, real things that you can do to minimize your carbon footprint while on the road.

Stay on the ground

The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) report finds that the nitrogen, sulfide, and carbon dioxide emissions occurring at 30,000 feet are 2 to 4 times more damaging than their “equivalent” ground emissions. With airline traffic expected to grow significantly in the coming years, these aircraft emissions are expected to take an incredible toll on the ozone layer.

What does this mean? Trains will always achieve more distance per passenger, per gallon of fuel than flights and their emissions nitrogen sulfides into the air. Unfortunately, there’s no 2:00 train from Boston to Paris, but you can plan your trip intelligently. The flight from Amsterdam to Prague may prove to be marginally faster, but taking the train will leave a lighter carbon footprint. If time is of the essence, plan your ground trips for overnight–you’ll save money on lodging while maintaining valuable time for your destination. Most importantly your traversals will utilize fewer fossil fuels.

Travel in a group

When trains are out of the question, pack ‘em in as tight as you can, whenever you can. Fuel efficiency is often measured in the amount of fuel required per passenger, per kilometer. Airlines may be more harmful, but they get as much density out of their flights as possible. Vehicles carrying a single passenger, however, often receive lower per passenger, per kilometer ratings than full cars. Whether in a taxi or a minibus, traveling as a group will always prove more efficient than flying solo.

The same argument can be made for the hot water in showers. Couples are a natural green factor, but singles can probably turn this into a compelling pick up line in hostels. When traveling in groups, put as many per room as you can tolerate. Fewer lights and hot water means less energy consumption.

Reuse!

The plastic bottle is one of the greatest inventions of all time. Unfortunately, the low cost of its production has cheapened its value in day to day life. When purchasing water, hang on to the bottle and refill it. With a biodegrading time of approximately 1 million years, even 4 refills per bottle will significantly reduce your carbon footprint. Refill gallon bottles to store in your trunk (either for radiator or waiting for the rescue crew). Doing these things will have a twofold effect on the environment; you’ll add fewer plastic bottles to landfills and—in a small way—reduce the demand for new bottles to be produced.

Be cognizant of any material that can be reused on your travels or purchase long-lasting equivalents. I’m a complete coffee addict (10 cups a day, at least) and have invested in a very rugged Nissan stainless travel mug. Whenever I stop at a gas station, I save money by refilling it and I save a styrofoam cup. Some lunch meats come in very functional Tupperware dishes. In the end, everything has a carbon price—particularly “disposable” items.

Travel light

The mantra of all seasoned travelers also has an impact on your carbon footprint. Some go as far as to say, “Pack everything you think you need. Then remove half of it.” While the physics and mathematics behind the direct energy-to-distance ratios can vary according to a myriad of variables, one thing remains clear; the more you weigh, the more space you take up, and the more fossil fuels are needed to get you there, period. This may not make as great of an impact for a family making a 200 mile trip to Disney world, but the difference can add up for someone circling the globe–and your back will thank you.

The Hooch at Rancho Mastatal in Costa Rica

Patronize Eco-Tourist locations

When planning to stay somewhere, do some research on potential eco-friendly options. While the definition of ecological and social conscience varies from region to region, organizations exist that provide some standards. Check with www.ecotourism.org for a concise list of ecotourism businesses that adhere to The International Ecotourism Society’s (TIES) guidelines. These guidelines enforce a baseline of social and ecological awareness.

For a good example check out Rancho Mastatal in Coasta Rica.

Buy local

Unless you’re traveling to the Antarctic or the Sahara, every region in the world will have home-brewed or locally-grown specialties. Research your destination’s agricultural strengths. Use this information to plan your diet around what is already there, and not around excessive amounts of foreign produce. While processing and shipping creates jobs and stimulates the some economies (it may not be the local one), it also generates unnecessary quantities of carbon dioxide. Besides, a trip to a local vendor will often pay off in flavor as well as earth-friendliness.

Use Rechargeable batteries

This is one of the easier ones to follow. If you own an iPod, cell phone, laptop or iPhone, then you are already participating in this step. Many of these devices utilize lithium ion batteries, one of the most “green” due to lack of heavy metals and long (approximately 2 years) lifecycle. For many electronics, particularly cameras, double- or triple-A batteries are still the standard. New Nickel Metal Hydride batteries (NiMH) will give you over 500 recharge cycles before they give out, and utilize fewer groundwater-polluting heavy metals than its predecessor, the Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad). The only downside is staying in one place long enough to recharge them.

Carbon Neutrality

This is an ideological, but increasingly popular way to travel green. The concept is this: you give money to an organization whose goal is to fight global warming. This amount is said to offset the amount of ozone-destruction your journey has caused. Independent Traveler maintains an excellent list of carbon offsetting organizations.

Use Non-Toxic Products

Many products you use for your travels have a biodegradable version. When camping, consider purchasing rapid-dissolve toilet paper. Delicious Organics sells earth friendly detergents and bath soaps that are non-toxic and often sold in a concentrated form to reduce packaging.

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Editor’s note:

In addition to the ways listed above, we encourage volunteering abroad as a greener alternative to regular travel.

For a fantastic list of volunteer opportunities and organizations working to protect the environment check matador’s organizations section.

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A regular contributor to Matador, Jacob Bielanksi is currently working on a project uncovering how the US government obtains data on travelers.

terrain of Northern Argentina. Photo by Eamonn Lawlor

One of the amazing things about South America is that places like Humamarca and Buenos Aires exist in the same country. If you are traveling in Argentina and want to explore indigenous culture, grab your backpack and get on a bus for Salta and Jujuy, two provinces in Northwest Argentina.

1. Salta Capital a medium-sized city with few tourist attractions, but great cuisine. You’ll already notice how different small-town Argentina is to places like Buenos Aires. Eat a hearty dish of locro while you are here; it’s a stew made of fresh corn. Try its variation guachalocro with goat cheese sprinkled on top for a delicious belly-warmer.

Things to see and do in Salta include viewing architecture, walking, museums, presentations of folkloric music and dance, and eating. The main plaza, Plaza 9 de Julio, is Salta’s prime attraction, with its well-preserved Italian Neoclassical church dating from 1882, plenty of benches and trees to relax, and touristy cafes serving somewhat overpriced food and drinks. A fifteen-minute walk away from the plaza is the Cerro San Bernardo, a hill that you can rise up by taking a teleferico or by a thirty-minute hike up stairs.

2. San Salvador de Jujuy. Known as the most Andean city in Argentina because of the large Bolivia population. Here’s a little secret: the best food in town can be found at the Bolivian market around the corner from the bus terminal. Don’t eat too much of it right away or you’ll get a stomach-ache!

3. Quebrada del Toro Small villages set in valleys between along the Andean Cordilera. You can spend up to two days in each of these towns: Pumamarca, Tilcara, and Humamarca. Each has archaeological ruins, beautiful cemeteries, hills to climb to watch the sunset, delicious local cuisine (try the llama steaks!), and musicians performing in the streets. If you want to really tap into the unique culture of Northwest Argentina, step off the beaten path and head to Iruya.

Campesina in Northern Argentina. Photo by Any Manetta

4. Iruya Like a tangent off the main route, a remote speck that just calls to you to break away from the beaten path and come visit it. Board a huge bus resembling a tank in Humahuaca, one of the last towns in Argentina before the border with Bolivia, and brace yourself for a three-hour seat-gripping descent into a mountainous valley where lies the town of Iruya.

The ride seems to descend into the mouth of the Earth. Upon arrival you will be greeted by small, bubble-eyed girls who take your hands and lead you to lodging. As you climb over cobblestone paths you’ll notice the serenity of this tiny hamlet. The lodgings are humble except for one high-priced hotel, but just sitting out on the stoop and drinking mate and enjoying the view is enough to make you feel like you are in a palace of natural beauty.

The people of Iruya are proud of their indigenous identities and they are shy to mix with visitors from urban Argentina or elsewhere. Despite this hesitancy, they are incredibly friendly and patient with tourists who ask nosy questions about their local customs. Although the people of Iruya wear factory-made clothes and watch television, they live in the middle of the mountains and raise sheep, goats, and pigs. With their hands they spin wool throughout the day to make carpets or clothing. If it weren’t for the presence of the three staples of every Latin American town - a soccer field, a main plaza, and a church - you wouldn’t even know you were in Argentina, or any country with Spanish heritage. The unique culture and lifestyle of Iruya, as in any remote village, is a result of hundreds or even thousands of years of interactions with the land.

5. San Isidrio. Whereas in Iruya there were televisions, cars, and tourists wandering about, a twelve-kilometer hike down the river takes you to a tiny hamlet where there are no vehicles, nothing resembling an actual bar or cafe with a TV. There are people washing clothes in the river or sitting in adobe houses knitting wools, or boys walking in groups with a soccer ball. It was surreal to be so remote from anything resembling a city, and it makes you daydream about Spanish explorers following the valley and river until they reached this settlement, and the kinds of cultural interactions that must have produced.

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Info:

Argentinacontact.com has more options for visiting small-towns in Northern Argentina.

bus companies and schedule for Argentina

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About Rachel Signer: “”I’m a freelance anthropologist, roaming the world doing what I have to do to accomplish my dreams, loving it all, and recognizing the beautiful parts as well as the not-so-pretty things.”